Builds 77 FJ40 Build, It begins...and may take a while

[White Stripe]

I use cheap harbor freight hole saws. But I use a ton of cutting oil on them which helps them live. As far as your driveshaft angle your probably good. The bracket on the tube was for the exhaust hanger.

 

[franklin40]

thanks. that what i had in mind but couldn’t remember. i use cheap hole saws too. i guess that’s why they break but that why it doesn’t hurt to get a new one either!! i use cutting oil
too. these ones don’t owe me anything

 

[franklin40]

ok finally had some time to work on the 40 again. it was a bitter cold winter here this year and my shop is poorly insulated and heated so i had little motivation to be out there. tonight i finally got the cross member plates cut and drilled. i ran out of welding gas though so couldn’t complete the job. i ground and drilled the rivets (i hate that job) for the rear frame gussets in preparation for the new metal!!

i had such a fun time it really helps the motivation to get going again. infeelmso close to really getting moving on the build. im almost to the part where i’ll start really seeing progress i hope.

 

[64Rotorhead]

This last winter I worked in Thompson, The Pas, Split Lake and Gillam, Manitoba, so I can sympathize with the cold!

You're still ahead of me in your build!

One thing I'll mention, take it or leave it, it was suggested to me about the new X member. The one you see in my pics below is just a temporary. But others have suggested that you tie in to both sides of the frame as the original was. I plan to do that, not sure exactly how yet. I'm not cutting through frame for that, maybe some C shaped bracket that slides over the frame from the inside so that the x member can tie in to the main frame on top and bottom.

 

[franklin40]

sweet looking set up 64rotorhead. i have cut a hole through the frame and yes i am playing both sides of the frame and fully welding it in. i want it solid like it was with the original cross member

 

[64Rotorhead]

Curious, what length do you have for your rear driveshaft? I'm moving my rear axle back so that'll help on mine. How about your front shaft? Mine will be fairly long

 

[64Rotorhead]

sweet looking set up 64rotorhead. i have cut a hole through the frame and yes i am playing both sides of the frame and fully welding it in. i want it solid like it was with the original cross member

Ooops, yep, I didn't look close enough at your pics, I do see you went through both sides

Also, are you planning a track bar? You're SOA like me, just curious since it might be possible to incorporate one with the new x member

 

[franklin40]

for sure. i have the ruff stuff heavy duty kit. i’d have so many more pics if i didn’t run out of welding gas. one more good day of work i think and ill have it mostly mocked up.

yes my front drive shaft is substantially longer than the rear. i have things set so my rear drive shaft is 22 degrees which is the max that high angle drive line suggests for daily driving with their drive shaft. ill have to measure though. i’m using a double cardan shaft too. i was actually going to ask you the same when i saw you were using an atlas. is yours the atlas 2 or 4. i went with the 2 just to save some length. i have a little erin to move my rear axle back too. maybe 1/2-3/4 of an inch. that’ll help a bit too.

i just found you’re build. ill have to look through it a little closer. what rear axle are you planning on running?

 

[64Rotorhead]

for sure. i have the ruff stuff heavy duty kit. i’d have so many more pics if i didn’t run out of welding gas. one more good day of work i think and ill have it mostly mocked up.

yes my front drive shaft is substantially longer than the rear. i have things set so my rear drive shaft is 22 degrees which is the max that high angle drive line suggests for daily driving with their drive shaft. ill have to measure though. i’m using a double cardan shaft too. i was actually going to ask you the same when i saw you were using an atlas. is yours the atlas 2 or 4. i went with the 2 just to save some length. i have a little erin to move my rear axle back too. maybe 1/2-3/4 of an inch. that’ll help a bit too.

i just found you’re build. ill have to look through it a little closer. what rear axle are you planning on running?

Planning a Diamond rear axle. I also have an Atlas 2 to save length. Less gear choices, but really, just run through all the gears of the NV4500 for enough choices for me. Mine is a 5:1.

I have FJ60 rear springs, flipped. So probably will move my axle back 4-5"

 

[franklin40]

very similar set up. i can’t remember my atlas ratio off hand. it’s been two years since i bought it .

yes mine are 60 springs too. built by alcan 1inch under stock height. i’ve already moved my hangers back as far as i can on the frame and even with the offset hangers. i’ve probably gained about 4 inches of length but have a little room on my spring perches on the axle to go.

if you get a diamond axle check out the rear fj cruiser brake set up! i got the first one they sold and it’s a beautiful addition. modern rear discs with a built in e brake.

 

[franklin40]

funny. a few posts aren’t uploading.

rear driveline was 23.25 inches and front was 38.25 inches

 

[64Rotorhead]

very similar set up. i can’t remember my atlas ratio off hand. it’s been two years since i bought it .

yes mine are 60 sponge too. built by alcan 1inch under stock height. i’ve already moved my hangers back as far as i can on the frame and even with the offset hangers. i’ve probably gained about 4 inches of length but have a little room on my spring perches on the axle to go.

if you get a diamond axle check out the rear fj cruiser brake set up! i got the first one they sold and it’s a beautiful addition. modern rear discs with a built in e brake.

Ha! My rear springs are also from Alcan, and also relaxed under stock height Last I saw listed for brakes on Diamonds site was either 4Runner brakes or Tundra brakes with E brake. Probably the same or very similar to the FJ Cruisers. That's the plan

 

[64Rotorhead]

funny. a few posts aren’t uploading.

rear driveline was 23.25 inches and front was 38.25 inches

That's a good rear length. My front might be a bit longer as I may flip the front stock springs and get a bit more WB there too

 

[franklin40]

my father in law bought this for me today at a car show. they guy who cut it got the grill all wrong obviously but i can fix that. otherwise it’s pretty cool!

made out of powder coated steel. weighs about 5 pounds

 

[franklin40]

there that’s better

when you look close the bezel is even right way up!!

 

[franklin40]

got my crossmember tacked in place and started working on the antiwrap bar

it’s the ruff stuff kit and is really nicely designed!

 

[franklin40]

i think i know how ill mount the front shackle hanger but i don’t know what angle to mount the rear bracket onto the axle at. i dont know if it matters but i do know that my shock is definitely crowded and may need to be moved. can of worms!!

here are a few mounting options. please chime in!

it may be difficult to judge by the pictures but i’ve essentially rotated the top of the bracket forward relative to the axle tube

 

[White Stripe]

I would probably do the middle pic mounting but the top pic works too. I've seen them mounted lots of different angles . You could move your shocks to the back of the crossmember. Ruffstuff makes some nice mounts for upper shock mounts. @lcwizard may have more input for u if he's not too busy.

 

[franklin40]

i’m putting a downey tank in so i can’t move my shocks behind. there just no room. i can outboard them somewhat but i’ll sacrifice some length that way.

 

[franklin40]

talked to the guys at rough stuff because they know way more about their product than i do. they said mount it as vertical as possible like white stripe said. that triangulates the tubes the best so that’s what i’ll do. shocks are going to be moved anyway i guess so that’ll come soon.