I recently came across this same issue- 15mm/9/16" bolts. I'm using Ruffstuff too. Anyway, I discovered you won't find a 15mm bolt that long
Builds 77 FJ40 Build, It begins...and may take a while (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter franklin40
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I recently came across this same issue- 15mm/9/16" bolts. I'm using Ruffstuff too. Anyway, I discovered you won't find a 15mm bolt that long
Where did you get the Nv4500 mount? Would you happen to have the p/n?
I'm considering shaving down the C shape on the perches to keep it lower. Basically almost sit the perch right on the axle. Did Ruffstuff have the U Bolts for the 3.5" Diamond?
Do you have info on the Downey tank? I looked up Downeyoffroad.com, but no longer exists? Sounds like an external tank behind rear X member? How many gallons? Sounds like just the ticket
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- #365
yeah spring bolts are a bit of a bugger. mine are a little too big. i might try shaving them out with a sharp drill but or ill try to source something else.
i don’t have a part number but i got it at napa. i had a picture from the advance adapters i showed them. there’s really only one that looks like that. i had to make an adapter for it so i can bolt it to a custom made crossmember.
i had to grind the spring perches myself but yes i’m trying to get them as close to the axle tube as i can. i want to leave enough clearance that the center pin on my springs isn’t sitting on the axle tube through the spring plate.
i found it on ebay. i believe it was jim that actually sold to me. i’ve had it sitting for about a year i’d guess waiting to fit it. here his online store email address
Tojoproducts@aol.com
i did see marks off-road had them though
i don’t have a part number but i got it at napa. i had a picture from the advance adapters i showed them. there’s really only one that looks like that. i had to make an adapter for it so i can bolt it to a custom made crossmember.
i had to grind the spring perches myself but yes i’m trying to get them as close to the axle tube as i can. i want to leave enough clearance that the center pin on my springs isn’t sitting on the axle tube through the spring plate.
i found it on ebay. i believe it was jim that actually sold to me. i’ve had it sitting for about a year i’d guess waiting to fit it. here his online store email address
Tojoproducts@aol.com
i did see marks off-road had them though
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I was also looking at the Downey tank. But then saw the S10 option, lot's cheaper. Still haven't decided.
I've flipped my 60 springs in the rear to move the axle back so if I remount that X member to the rear, that the shocks mount to, that screws me for fuel tanks back there- Downey tank fits stock location, Chevy S10 tank is 22" so would have to move X member forward then complicating what to do with shock mounts?
I've been wondering why Toyota mounted the rear shocks at such an angle? Reasoning? I am also planning a Downey tank and need to move shocks forward, but like you said, I understand vertical is better shock efficiency. Why did Toyota do it?
Their is also the long range tank that goes underneath both front seats as an option. Then u can use the stock fuel fill, and keep weight distribution toward the front , which is better for offroad use in my opinion.
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- #369
i am definitely sick with the cruiser bug. picking this up this week. i had sold my 4 speed and transfer case almost two years ago. the guy never used it so i’m buying it back. has a 350 in it ( and a 3 speed) that i may swap out for a better running one down the road. buying it because it’s a great price and it will be my kids first car when the time comes. going to keep it small and simple. but of course another project in the wings that’ll take time. i’d better get back to the project at hand and get it moving!!
just finishing an engine swap in my chevelle so i’ve been delayed on my 40. i was looking at it though last night and think i might have a good plan now for the anti wrap bar. placement has been stumping me a little bit but i might have it figured now.
just finishing an engine swap in my chevelle so i’ve been delayed on my 40. i was looking at it though last night and think i might have a good plan now for the anti wrap bar. placement has been stumping me a little bit but i might have it figured now.
Ha! Focus, focus, focus! One project at a time
Of course a 40 project is actually 1000 smaller projects
Of course a 40 project is actually 1000 smaller projects
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- #371
well it followed me home last night. i also got a power steering box and picked up a 4 speed from the guy i sold mine to two years ago. $300 for the tranny/transfer case will be worth it for sure. before i go too wild i want to make more progress on the project at hand though!!
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Nice rig dude! Im pretty sure I saw you a couple weeks back in Banff! I wasn't driving my 60 though lol
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- #373
yep that would have been me! i would have had about 10 feet of bikes hanging off the back!
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Hahaha yes you did! Beauty 60 BTW!
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- #375
thanks. it’s a fun truck to take on road trips. i still have some things to sort out on it but it’s almost done (as if they ever really are)
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- #376
i think by flipping my front shackle on the antiwrap bar it gets the bar pretty parallel to the drive shaft. it’s maybe an inch and a half above the centre of the drive shaft at the output flange. otherwise my crossmember hits it.
i had some friends help out the body on it tonight and i have good body clearance above the shackle and the cross member. anyone have better ideas or think that’s not close enough to parallel to the drive shaft to work properly?
at present my frame is 24 inches off the ground at the bottom of the frame rail. that with 33 inch tires. i figure i’ll drop an inch when the weight of the body and everything is on it. maybe even an inch more once the springs are broken in. if it doesn’t i might take a leaf out but that’ll come with time. i want to keep it as low as i can for a spring over.
I would flip it the other way so it goes under the crossmember rather than over. I think it will get in the way of a exhaust system like it is now.
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- #378
took your advice. i think the angle is actually a little closer to parallel this way too. ill have to have the shackle pointing forward a little for clearance on the cross member but that’s a compromise i’ll have to make to put it where i think it’s geometry will be best
- Thread starter
- #379
now to shock mounts. how much clearance is going to be needed beside the antiwrap bar tower? this much? i might need to outboard them a little on my cross member if that’s too tight as it sits there’s about 1/2 inch clearance at my u bolt plate and 1/2 inch beside the tower
also that folks is why you should never use shock boots. they keep in water and dirt and does that to shocks!!
- Thread starter
- #380
spent more time tonight lining up the front springs. they weren’t parallel and that bugged me. they were 1/4 inch out front to back and on the axle perch. now they’re within less than 1/16 with the weight of the drive line on them. that’s probably better than factory i’m guessing. only thing i can think of i need to do now is mock up shocks and i need to get a new heim joint for my antiwrap bar and i can start welding stuff in for keeps!! every evening make it feel so close to actually starting to put it together!! when i welded the first one it the metal shrunk and stuck the threads in the nut. no matter home much heat i reapply i can’t break it loose. i’ve nearly ripped my vice out of a 2x10 bench top trying to break it free.
