Build 77 FJ40 Build, It begins...and may take a while

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i don’t think i welded it in because i had a little movement at the threads when it was still hot. but you’re probably right that i had it a little too hot. live and learn.

i hope i’d not have to move stuff around too much. i know the springs will settle a little but if i have my perches lined up perfectly settling springs shouldn’t make them go out of alignment so i hope to not have too many adjustments.
 
almost lost everything today. went out to the shop and there was a cloud of sweet smelling smoke. i aired it out and found this...
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something made a short and i had an electrical fire. power bar was off. dryer valve was open so no no water leaked out. not sure what caused it and equally baffling is why it went out on its own. i could have lost my shop my tools truck tractor and mower and a bunch of snowmobiles. i am a very fortunate man tonight. i guess God is even listening to the fire ban in our area!!
 
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franklin40 said:
almost lost everything today. went out to the shop and there was a cloud of sweet smelling smoke. i aired it out and found this...
View attachment 1769688
something made a short and i had an electrical fire. power bar was off. dryer valve was open so no no water leaked out. not sure what caused it and equally baffling isnwhybitnwent out on its own. i could have lost my shop my tools truck tractor and mower and a bunch of snowmobiles. i am a very fortunate man tonight. i guess God is even listening to the fire ban in our area!!
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You dodged a bullet!
 
back at the 40 tonight finally but no pictures. i got my rear frame gussets cut out because they are super rusted. not sure if i should weld or bolt the new ones back in. i think i’ll weld.

also got my spring perched mocked up. i don’t have room for a u bolt on one side of my spring perch because of how the pumpkin is notched. i’ve tacked two nuts to the housing and will use grade 8 bolts from top down line the ruff stuff u bolt eliminator perches.

i’ve also tacked my front shock mounts in place. i’m now wondering if the two shock mount bolts should be perpendicular to each other or is parallel ok? seems like some freedom in each direction might be better as the spring moves forward and back a little as it flexes. can anyone tell me if this matters

i tried calling 4x4 labs to set up a high steer kit too. haven’t heard back. hopefully some time this week.

now i have to modify my rad support to get the fan to clear the lower rad hose. i tried making my electric fan fork but there’s just not enough clearance. back to the OEM clutch fan on the OM617

ill soon pull the driveline out again and weld everything up.
 
started welding in things for real. sure hope all my measurements and alignment is right!! ill start taking stuff apart next time i get time to be in my shop. drive line will come out and it’s back down to bare frame to get coated. then the real build will start!! i also got a new heim joint for my antiwrap bar so that got finished too.

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i’ve been trying to figure out what’s going to be easiest and most effective for my rad fan. my two options currently are

1) use the clutch fan on the engine and custom make a rad support to move the radiator forward and much as i can and to drop it down in height. i need more clearance if i go this way. i’d also have to make a custom fan shroud.

2) electric fan that sits flush to the radiator.

i understand that a shroud helps flow air across the whole rad compared to only surface area of the fan mounted directly to the rad. is it significant enough with a good electric fan to warrant all the extra work to keep the clutch fan.

i have a flex a light black magic i wanted to use but just don’t have quite enough space. i may be able to get a short water pump and pulley that would fix that problem but i’m not sure if i can actually get one. if that doesn’t work what option would you choose?
 
i found a short water pump for the OM617 so i’m going to try to modify my pulley
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if i can get modify the nose in front of the mounting surface that’ll gain me about 1.5 inches of space which will be enough to mount the black magic fan.

i got the ford shock towers modified and installed.
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ill have to trim the fenders a bit. i also had to move the axle forward an inch to get them to line up with the notches in the fenders that are already there for the stock shock mounts. a little extra wheel base will be good.

i ordered some high steer parts last week and this next week i’ll order drive shafts. going to need high angle for the rear. it’s kind of short but i’ll only need 19 degrees at the double cardan which is less than i initially though so that’s good too

now just need some materials to move the top shock mounts for the rear and i think i’m done mock up!!


this is how it sits
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i haven’t played with them yet. problem with using the stock drag link ends is that they attach to the tie rod instead of the steering arm and i loose the benefit of frombe steer
 
it’s the principle that the inner wheel turns a steeper radius than the outer. helps with tight turns and improves turning radius. less tire wear too apparently. mostly turning radius improves.
 
franklin40 said:
it’s the principle that the inner wheel turns a steeper radius than the outer. helps with tight turns and improves turning radius. less tire wear too apparently. mostly turning radius improves.
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From what I understand that is called ackerman angle. I don't think that is affected by placement of the drag link either on the steering arm or on the tie rod. I think what affects ackerman angle is the angle of the knuckle arms. The angle of the 2 should converge at the center of the rear axle from what I remember. But maybe Im wrong on this.
 
yes you are right about the term. i got it mixed up with the terms 4x4 labs uses. frombe is a term they coined for from behind meaning the tie rod is behind the axle. ackerman is correct. i was under the impression it did rely on placement of the tie rod ends relative to the drag link ends. maybe i’m wrong. ill read more on it when i have time.
 
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I'll be watching your anti wrap bar progress. I'll be in the same boat with centered rear diff. What do you think about this? Saw it here on Mud somewhere, stating the upper bar needing to be close to horizontal. And the spread on rear attach bolts about 25% of tire diameter.



And are your rear Alcans flipped for WB extension? If so, it seems like your rear x member shock mounts would have to be moved rearward. I'm encountering this but it would interfere with the Downey tank I wanna put back there
 
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