Builds 77 FJ40 Build, It begins...and may take a while (2 Viewers)

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i checked with high angle drive line but was planning on it once the drive line was set. ill likely save about 1/2 cm but with tilting the engine i may start contacting the rad along the bottom. the electric will prevent this. also ill have better low rpm air flow with the electric
 
well i talked to my rad guy and he said the 4 core I have is just fine with a good fan and shroud. I got it pressure tested and cleaned up and put this on it todayView attachment 1326344
is the flex a lite black magic fan. not cheap but looks like it was designed to fit the rad. it is perfect!! I figure while crawling this will cool better than a low rpm engine driven fan. comes with thermostat and mounting stuff. I'll probably put a kill switch in too some can shut it off for water crossings and then flip it back on. we'll see. at least I know where my rad and fan will sit so I can continue on now with engine placement!!

Nice, you would't happen to have part number for this set up?
 
i went with the flex a lite spiral fan and shroud. the taurus fans do work well from my reading too but i don't want to put a used fan in when everything else is new and their cost new would likely be similar to the flex a lite
 
Been a while since I checked in, but your progress is looking really good! I've been super busy since getting out of the military and have started back in school.

Anyways, I had to clearance my lower fan shroud to accommodate the lower radiator hose in addition to taking about .5cm off each fan blade.

With respect to the AA doughnut mounts, they are REALLY stiff. My 617 vibrates the heck out of everything. Use thread locker on anything you don't want backing out.

When I get a chance I think I'm going to drill some holes in the mounts to make them a bit more flexible.
 
finally got a little more 40 time as the 62 is running well and is my daily driver so it's been priority. i lowered my rear crossmember (still need to finish it up) and lowered my engine mounts up front a bit too. i have a 7 degree slope in my driveline. i hope that's not too much. my 62 had a 1hdt swapped in and it's 5 degrees without any drive line vibration issues so i figure 7 is ok. that helps lower the atlas output shaft a bunch so my rear drive shaft angle isn't so terrible now. output shaft is inside frame rails now. i may still tinker a little with the position but my welding mask stopped darkening so i can't do any more tonight
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good beer holder/ table for now!!
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though it may seem like i've stalled out on this project it's still on. just spare time is really rare for me right now.

i got the front axle in place and a front drive shaft mocked up. now i have to find my ubolt plates (roll eyes). i'm not going to try to finish up a tranny cross member and the. mock of the rear axle. i had to grind down the spring perches to get the to fit around the diamond axle housing. while i was at it i lowered it a bit too to shave off 1/2inch. trying everything i can to keep it low. the steel diamond axle uses is super thick and tough. burned out one grinder just notching the housing!!

i'm not loving how steep the rear drive shaft angle is but i guess all the little compromises made to get a custom drive line in leave things a little less than ideal. ill likely have to get high angle drive line to build me something

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though it may seem like i've stalled out on thai project it's still on. just spare time is really rare for me right now.

i got the front axle in place and a front drive shaft mocked up. now i have to find my ubolt plates (roll eyes). i'm not going to try to finish up a tranny cross member and the. mock of the rear axle. i had to grind down the spring perches to get the to fit around the diamond axle housing. while i was at it i lowered it a bit too to shave off 1/2inch. trying everything i can to keep it low. the steel diamond axle uses is super thick and tough. burned out one grinder just notching the housing!!

i'm not loving how steep the rear drive shaft angle is but i guess all the little compromises made to get a custom drive line in leave things a little less than ideal. ill likely have to get high angle drive line to build me something

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I got my Atlas 2 from Jesse at High Angle. I was planning on a 4 , but just too short and steep, even though I'm moving my axle back, and have 60 rear springs
 
One thing you could do to reduce height is have alcan make you the 2 main leafs with reverse eyes. Then take the rest of the leafs from each pack and put them on the reverse eye leafs. That would gain you a inch or 2 lower ride height.

i already had alcan make my springs 1 inch lower than stock 60 springs. i don't want to go too low or ill start having interference with my oil pan but shaving a 1/2 inch here and there will keep it where i want it.

i'm moving my axle as far back as i can too. that'll help a little with the drive shaft angle.

here's a little more look at my cross
member. any suggestions please let me know soon as i'm almost ready to weld it to the frame!!
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big day. motor where it's going to stay, tranny crossmember built and tacked in place, front axle centered and spring perches in place and the one body mount that was rotten inbuilt a new one. now i have to position the rear axle which is already close and then i can mock up my shock mounts and a new crossmember. then an anti wrap bar. i also need to replace the rear frame gussets. not sure if i want to pay for premade ones or spend the time building them. anyway things moved a long way today. all the pre prep work that seemed so tedious and slow going finally paid off and i saw leaps and bounds today so to speak!!
 
I got my Atlas 2 from Jesse at High Angle. I was planning on a 4 , but just too short and steep, even though I'm moving my axle back, and have 60 rear springs

rotor head do you have any idea what angle you're rear drive shaft is sitting at? did you go double cardan joint or parallel pinion/transfer case flange with single u joint?
 
i already had alcan make my springs 1 inch lower than stock 60 springs. i don't want to go too low or ill start having interference with my oil pan but shaving a 1/2 inch here and there will keep it where i want it.

i'm moving my axle as far back as i can too. that'll help a little with the drive shaft angle.

here's a little more look at my cross
member. any suggestions please let me know soon as i'm almost ready to weld it to the frame!!
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Are you planning any additional support for your Atlas? I’ve seen quite a few different ideas on that
 
i wasn't planning any extra support but should i be? nows the time to do it!

i read on advance adapters site that no extra support is needed. it seems likely that a good skid plate to protect it is best. i'm not running big hp so i don't think i'm at risk of breaking transmission tail housing. i liked it for gearing and synchro.
 
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i wasn't planning any extra support but should i be? nows the time to do it!

i read on advance adapters site that no extra support is needed. it seems likely that a good skid plate to protect it is best. i'm not running big hp so i don't think i'm at risk of breaking transmission tail housing. i liked it for gearing and synchro.

I was just curious as to your logic. I’ve seen some do it and some don’t. If you do, there’s some thoughts that you don’t want it too rigid. I haven’t decided myself yet. Do some research I guess. Perhaps it does depend on how crazy you plan to get and HP like you said. Why don’t you hurry up and get it done and run it through the paces and let me know;)
 
lol. rome wasn't built in a day!! i wish it were though. i'm so anxious to get driving it but this part has taken a LONG time to get done. once it's in i think everything else will move along reasonably. i don't have to many custom plans for body/interior. mostly just bolt on stuff i like.
 

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