Builds 77 FJ40 Build, It begins...and may take a while (2 Viewers)

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well the electric fan won't fit. it pushed the engine back to far and I need it forward for drive shaft angles. I'm going to have to remodel my rad support to drop it down a little and then build a custom fan shroud. it was a good effort but a compromise I'm not willing to make.
 
by the time I get the gussets shipped I'll be $400 USD!! rediculous. I just can't find the right size channel and I also want the frame end narrowed down like the OEM ones to fit inside the frame. finding the material is the challenge. if you can make them for $100 I'll gladly pay the shipping. what I might do is pull
mine out once I have the body off again and take them to a metal fab shop and see if they can make me some.
 
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engine is in its final resting place!! that's a big job done. and another milestone. just need to weld up gussets and finally weld the mounts to frame permanently

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later this weekend I hope to adjust the suspension and get the body mounts in the right place.

any thoughts on using a clutch fan vs a flex fan? the original fan had a clutch but the flex a lite flex fan on my chevelle would fit with a small spacer. it has larger surface area blades and one more blade than the original fan so I think it would pull more air. it just feels like I'm going backwards from trying electric to clutch now contemplating solid flex fan.
 
by the time I get the gussets shipped I'll be $400 USD!! rediculous. I just can't find the right size channel and I also want the frame end narrowed down like the OEM ones to fit inside the frame. finding the material is the challenge. if you can make them for $100 I'll gladly pay the shipping. what I might do is pull
mine out once I have the body off again and take them to a metal fab shop and see if they can make me some.

send me a drawing or a description of what you want - that's pretty easy to build..
 
Clutch fan..
 
well as I'm sure you can all tell I'm kind of new to custom building of vehicles. this is my first go really. so please forgive me for asking what may seem some silly questions.

that being said here goes....

I have advance adapters motor mount kit as you can see from the above pictures. it comes with 4 rubber insulators though

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where should they actually sit? one between the frame mount and engine mount but where does the other side go? above the engine mount or below the frame mount? I'm not really sure what it's purpose is
 
yep. I searched and searched and couldn't find anything hence the question. about 10 minutes after I asked it I got three different pictures giving me the answer. doh!!

anyway I readjusted the rear spring hangers. I've got all my shackles at 65 degrees knowing they will settle a little with the weight of the truck and accessories. my springs are already quite flat (only one inch difference between curve of the spring and direct eye to eye) so I hope the shackles don't get too flat with the weight. I also got some of the old busted body mounts out. I need some proper body mount bolts now though and there are two body mount perches that need to be cut and welded on as my outriggers for the rear spring hangers are in the way. little by little things are coming. it feels like it'll still be forever thought.
 
ordered a fuel tank from downey. measurements suggest it'll fit well. i've considered going the extended range tank under driver and passenger seat but because of floor modifications i'll have to do for the atlas that tank won't fit so this'll be my best bet albeit it will change my hill climbing balance a little
 
looking for a picture or two of the stock position 3 body mount. it's the one under where the floor meets the bed of the body. i think one of my POs just welded a metal tab in and there was no actual body mount. is there a threaded hole that a bolt goes up through the mount and threads into the body?
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i'm trying to mock up the mount on the frame and need to know how the body is attached. there are no holes (and cant be) down from inside the body so i assume a bolt needs to go up through the mount and into the body. the above picture shows the underside of my body where this tab is welded on. the hole in the middle isn't threaded.

it's this one on a stock frame but the body side of the mount if that helps clarify things
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there's a nut welded to a square washer that slides into the body-side of that mount. You then run the bolt up from the frame into it....

From the back bumper... there are 4 bolts/nuts in it. Next forward is a pad between the tub and the frame that is stapled to the body but has no bolt. The next up is bolts that come from the inside of the tube down into the frame. The one you have circled is what I just described - there's the washer deal that you bolt into. It is hard to tell from your picture whether the bit that captures the washer/nut is still there.... if not, I'd simply weld the washer/nut to the body ...
 
thanks. that's what i thought. i might just drill and tap that piece of steel that's welded on and use it as the anchor. it's solid to the body. its only 1/4 inch thick though so maybe it would be best to weld a nut into it to get more depth for threads.
 
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got the body mounts in place.


took the tub off to get drive line stuff mocked up futrther. i know i need to do the "cut and turn" when the whole weight of the vehicle is on the springs but trying to figure out if it's necessary to set the pinion angles. it seems it would be better to do it that way but its kind of a pain working with the body on. i had to remove a diff (with the full float it's so easy) because i need it for my 62 next weekend. it's nearing time to get the hangers fully welded in place. i little more frame work and it'll be nearing time to get building for real.
 
well it's been a long while getting my 62 up to snuff and this has sat eating away at me. so here we go again. i put the atlas on tonight and am finding my rear drive shaft angle way too steep so i have to drop the drive line down a bit. ill have to modify the rad support too to bring it down a little so my fan isn't hitting the lower rad hose. anyone have any info on how much of an angle i can run the engine at (ie dropping the rear of the drive line more than the front)?

this does look sexy though
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well it's been a long while getting my 62 up to snuff and this has sat eating away at me. so here we go again. i put the atlas on tonight and am finding my rear drive shaft angle way too steep so i have to drop the drive line down a bit. ill have to modify the rad support too to bring it down a little so my fan isn't hitting the lower rad hose. anyone have any info on how much of an angle i can run the engine at (ie dropping the rear of the drive line more than the front)?

this does look sexy thoughView attachment 1468594

I've seen many refer to 3-4 degrees. I'm doing similar so have researched a lot and that's what I've seen reported. Mine is a 40, I have an NV4500 and planning an Atlas, and already planning WB extension with rear axle moved back. Short and steep. I want an A4 but it may have to be a 2.
 
yeah mine is the 2. i've moved my axle as far back as my shackles will allow. i think ill be able to make it work but it's going to be tight. a little radiator placement adjustments will be necessary after all. i may end up going back to using the electric fan set up after all. not sure if it'll save me much space but at least i won't have the engine fan trying to eat the lower part of my radiator
 
yeah mine is the 2. i've moved my axle as far back as my shackles will allow. i think ill be able to make it work but it's going to be tight. a little radiator placement adjustments will be necessary after all. i may end up going back to using the electric fan set up after all. not sure if it'll save me much space but at least i won't have the engine fan trying to eat the lower part of my radiator

How much space have you figured you save with electric fan versus mechanical?

Have you checked with Jesse at High Angle driveline for short and steep shafts?
 

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