76 FJ40 Starts -- Stops Running When Ignition Is Released (1 Viewer)

[TimOrmondBeach]

1976 FJ40 - has been running strong for a couple years but just recently does not stay running after ignition is released. Similar to this forum string (75 FJ40 Starts but dies when ignition is released - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/75-fj40-starts-but-dies-when-ignition-is-released.1229262/). I assume maybe the ballast resistor is bad.

Trouble shooting completed so far:

• Fuel - yes
• Spark on each plug - yes
• Battery - new
• Meter tested 12V on the coil+ terminal
• Ballast resistor resistance test - 3.5 ohms

I ordered a remote starter tomorrow. With the understanding that one connection will go to the battery+, where does the other connection (1-4?) go on the starter solenoid (see image)?

Any other recommended troubleshooting test?

Thanks!

 

[eaj71]

Fuse ?
Idle solenoid?

 

[eaj71]

Maybe even a bad link in the ignition switch.

 

[cruiserkev]

X2 on the ignition switch. Brass contacts inside wear down and can cause continuity issues. Very easy to replace on a 76.

 

[TimOrmondBeach]

@eaj71 - fuses are good and clean. Not sure if I have an electronic idle solenoid as I have a weber38 carb installed by the previous PO.

Any guidance on how to connect the remote starter to the solenoid? See my previous image for the numbered terminals. Thanks!

 

[cruisermatt]

What do you need the remote starter for?
This does not need to be complicated.

Does your coil have +12V when the key is in the Ign/On position? Answer this before doing anything else.

your friendly local Land Cruiser shop would be happy to sell you an ignition switch which is probably the issue.

 

[Rocky_LC]

Absolutely CruiserMatt is right.

The engine runs when it’s in the start position (cranking) because the coil is getting voltage from a slightly different circuit.

When the key (ignition switch) is moved to the run position, the coil is fed through the ballast resistor.

So it seems pretty likely that the problem is somewhere between your ignition switch, ballast resistor or the minor wiring in between them to the coil.

Matt’s first test of proving you have voltage at the coil in the RUN position is a very simple troubleshooting test! Once you know that you can go from there.

 

[TimOrmondBeach]

What do you need the remote starter for?
This does not need to be complicated.

Does your coil have +12V when the key is in the Ign/On position? Answer this before doing anything else.

your friendly local Land Cruiser shop would be happy to sell you an ignition switch which is probably the issue.

@cruisermatt - I read that a remote start might be one test for troubleshooting a similar issue. Here are the following readings when the ignition is in the ON position:

• coil+ (.03V)
• Ballast resistor (BY ignition wire side) (12V)
• Ballast resistor red wire side (.04V)
• 

 

[pb4ugo]

I dont think 0.04 volts on the ballast resistor to coil is enuff. Shouldn't it be around 6 to 9 volts?

 

[TimOrmondBeach]

I dont think 0.04 volts on the ballast resistor to coil is enuff. Shouldn't it be around 6 to 9 volts?

@pb4ugo - exactly...that's why I am assuming that the ballast resistor is bad. Waiting on more info from the experts out in the IH8MUD universe.

 

[cruisermatt]

@cruisermatt - I read that a remote start might be one test for troubleshooting a similar issue. Here are the following readings when the ignition is in the ON position:

• coil+ (.03V)
• Ballast resistor (BY ignition wire side) (12V)
• Ballast resistor red wire side (.04V)
• View attachment 3589955

This is picture your actual coil on your 40? Looking closely looks like it is upside down and the polarity is reversed.
Was looking on mobile (small picture) and looked like +12v lead was hooked to negative side. Whoops.

 

[pb4ugo]

1st I must say I haven't screwed around Toyota ING systems in yrs. Have monitored voltage at the 12v side of the ballast while someone is giggling or rotating the key back and forth in the run position and see if the voltage cuts out? I know Toyota ran a bypass wire from the starter to the ING to boost voltage to 12v to the coil for intial startup. With that said, it looks like in the pic the bypass appears it's hooked up to on the 12v side of the ballast. Shouldn't that starter bypass wire be somewhere on the + side of the coil?

 

[TimOrmondBeach]

This is picture your actual coil on your 40? Looking closely looks like it is upside down and the polarity is reversed.

This is how the coil was when I bought it...been running strong for 2 years until now.

 

[cruisermatt]

This is how the coil was when I bought it...been running strong for 2 years until now.

Sorry. Was looking on iPhone and it looked like it was wrong on my tiny screen. On desktop now. It’s wired correctly.
you should be getting more voltage thru the ballast resistor, should be 6-9V.
Try moving the +12V lead (black with yellow stripe) to the + coil terminal.

 

[eaj71]

@eaj71 - fuses are good and clean. Not sure if I have an electronic idle solenoid as I have a weber38 carb installed by the previous PO.

Any guidance on how to connect the remote starter to the solenoid? See my previous image for the numbered terminals. Thanks!

I wish I could help that question. But a bit outside my skill set

 

[TimOrmondBeach]

Sorry. Was looking on iPhone and it looked like it was wrong on my tiny screen. On desktop now. It’s wired correctly.
you should be getting more voltage thru the ballast resistor, should be 6-9V.
Try moving the +12V lead (black with yellow stripe) to the + coil terminal.

@cruisermatt - To clarify, move the+12V lead (black with yellow stripe) to the + coil terminal, and this will bypass the ballast resistor? Should I then turn the key to the run position to see if it starts? Question: how will the igniter get power?

 

[TimOrmondBeach]

1st I must say I haven't screwed around Toyota ING systems in yrs. Have monitored voltage at the 12v side of the ballast while someone is giggling or rotating the key back and forth in the run position and see if the voltage cuts out? I know Toyota ran a bypass wire from the starter to the ING to boost voltage to 12v to the coil for intial startup. With that said, it looks like in the pic the bypass appears it's hooked up to on the 12v side of the ballast. Shouldn't that starter bypass wire be somewhere on the + side of the coil?

I am not familiar with the bypass wire. Which one is it? There is a white wire (A) connected to the coil+ from the original harness green connector that turns into a smaller black and yellow wire (B)

(see image).

 

[pb4ugo]

That's it. It supplies 12v from the starter to the coil while it's cranking. It's obviously working.

 

[TimOrmondBeach]

Issue resolved. I removed the old ballast resistor since it read 0 ohms and noticed immediately that the coil wire was rusted and broke.

As a temporary test, I rewrapped the ceramic rod with the same gauge wire. Reinstalled the ballast resistor and measured the voltage readings with the key in the ON position. Turned it to start and it ran immediately. Ordered a new ballast resistor, and happy that it was a simple solution.

Thank you to all those who provided me with guidance and assistance.

 

[numby]

What resistor did you order? Part number?