60 Series Axle swap with the Trail Tailor Coil Conversion (15 Viewers)

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FYI for anyone doing the rear axle, use OEM Rear rotors. I got napa rotors and while one side is fine, I guess the parking brake shoes are contacting the inside of the rotor. Every wheel revolution there is a Tapping or clicking noise. Seems to go away when you pull the parking brake up one click. I cant find much on here about it but did find one post that said the oem rotors have a groove machined on the inside of them. The people on the thread said it eventually self clearanced. Kind of a crap outcome
 
dude i did a group by and ordered them from australia a few months back. They are OEM take outs from HJ61s. They were about $200 USD a set but the shipping was really high on them so i bought 5 at the same time and we all split the $550 shipping. I got them from Horizon Early Land Cruisers, I messaged him on instagram. They are VERY used when you get them. I had to get the frames sandblasted and powder coated and i replaced all the rubbers and tinted the windows. If you go that route, i have a vendor for all of the rubbers and stuff. I actually think i got the worst set out of the bunch after talking to the other group buy members and mine turned out awesome.
I have a set of rear sliders I need to rebuild, who is the vendor you used for all the rubber?
 
I’ve had good luck with these trail gear rubber wiper seals on my old 4Runner, so I figured I’d give them a shot on the 80 axles.

Lots of stuff stacked on each other in there but the award for damn why I didn’t I think of that before goes to @Cruiser Cult on the knuckle light bracket.

Im planning on running the Amazon lights he’s got on his site. They have a high beam and an amber fog 2in 1. Going to run it to one factory switch on the dash to control both high and fog from one switch using @ChaserFJ60 adapters. Going to be rad


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This is kind of as far as I can go. I waited most of the year for the 80 specific locking hubs to come back in stock at cruiser outfitters and I said screw it and got fj60 ones on Black Friday. They finally came back in stock and they’re going to swap them for me. There’s really not much of a difference, the dials are both gold. The 80 series specific hubs are scalloped to fit the scalloped wheel bearing hub. That’s it.


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Just got to get the other side to this point and then just wait for the lock out hubs to get here!
Finally had a chance to read more into your thread during a lunch break. I want to order me a set of those light brackets too and go the fog light route with them. I love the idea of a "live turning" fog light or driving light on a vehicle.
 
Finally had a chance to read more into your thread during a lunch break. I want to order me a set of those light brackets too and go the fog light route with them. I love the idea of a "live turning" fog light or driving light on a vehicle.

Man, so i wired up my amazon lights and they died after running for like 1 minute. I think i got a defective set so they replaced them. I havent had a chance to wire up the new ones. Since i switched to the factory 80 series fog light switch i lost the fog/spot functionality :/
 
Man, so i wired up my amazon lights and they died after running for like 1 minute. I think i got a defective set so they replaced them. I havent had a chance to wire up the new ones. Since i switched to the factory 80 series fog light switch i lost the fog/spot functionality :/
D'OH!!

Hopefully it was just a bum set. I assume you double checked and made sure there was voltage at the connection for them?
 
D'OH!!

Hopefully it was just a bum set. I assume you double checked and made sure there was voltage at the connection for them?
yeah i did use a crappy amazon light bar harness because im being lazy but i tested the voltage at all of the relay prongs and everything seems to be good on the relay. Ill post up once i put the new ones on
 
@Spook50 The new lights work just fine. The first ones must have been bad or something. Ive got the spot lights wired up because they are brighter than the fogs

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@Spook50 The new lights work just fine. The first ones must have been bad or something. Ive got the spot lights wired up because they are brighter than the fogs

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I LOVE that!

And the underside of your rig is FAR cleaner than mine.....
 
Haha thats just the front. The back is dirty and rusty. The old 2f used to lose about a quart of oil a month and coated the front frame rails pretty well in rust protectant.
Turn a negative into a positive! A win is a win! 😂
 
Hey Also, I forgot to mention earlier with the front driveshaft. The 60 series front drive shaft uses different ujoints than the 80 series front. The only reason i was able to swap over my diff flange end of my old drive shaft is because my front driveshaft is a custom front driveshaft and not a stock 60 series driveshaft.

The 80 rear diff uses the same pattern as the 60 rear diff.

If you still have the original 60 series front driveshaft youll need to swap over the actual diff pinion flange from you 60 series or buy one from Cruiser outfitters or valley hybrids.

That being said, youre going to need to lengthen or shorten your front driveshaft anyways doing this swap. Lengthening a driveshaft is $250-300 and buying a whole new one is like $500 or so and you get new ujoints and a fresh slip yoke.


My front driveshaft was built by JE Reel. I had them use toyota mini truck rear ujoints (1985-1995 pickup/4runner) and ends because they actually have more operating angle than any Spicer ujoint and any of the other land cruiser ujoints. It just so happens that the 80 series has an 8 inch front diff and uses this same ujoint in the front driveshaft only. That is the only reason i was able to just swap over the end of my drive shaft to fit the 80 series diff.

The 60 series diff bolt pattern is 66x66mm with 11mm holes. The 80 series and all mini truck diffs have a 60x60mm bolt pattern with 10mm holes. So if you order a new driveshaft, youll want to get 60x60mm hole spacing pattern on which ever end you put at the diff. I put the thicker end at the diff and the smaller slip yoke at the tcase, so my slip yoke side is 66x66 and my diff side is 60x60.

To make it even more complicated. The 80 series front drive shaft uses M10x1.0 driveshaft bolts and the 60 series uses M11x1.0 drive shaft bolts and M11x1.0 studs on the tcase output flange. So youll use 11mm nuts and washers at the tcase, and 10mm driveshaft bolts/nuts/washers at the diff.

10mm drive shaft bolt - 90105-10424
10mm washers (this comes with 4 washers) - 90560-10H00
10mm nut - 90178-10006

So long story short, want to keep your 60 front drive shaft? change the pinion flange on your 80 front diff to a 60 pinion flange.

Want to get a better driveshaft? Call JE Reel and have them make you a front drive shaft with a 66x66 slip yoke side for your tcase with 11mm holes and a 60x60 diff side with 10mm holes. Ask them to use Matsuba 29x49mm ujoints or if they cant get Matsuba, theyll probably use Neapco 1-1612 since they are a neapco dealer. Neapco is good stuff. The yokes on the mini truck drive shaft ends also clear the 4l60 oilpan if you have that and flex a lot more than the 60 ujoint or 1310/1350 spicer ujoints. I wouldnt use tom woods for the front, theyll use 1310 joints. If you are using a 4l60e transmission youll want to get smaller diameter thick wall tubing. I think my tubing is 2 inches diameter with .120 wall to clear the transmission oilpan. If you have the the h42, h55f, or whatever the fj62 auto is, you dont have to worry about this.



Heres my front driveshaft from je reel with the end swapped over. the dirty shaft on the left is the 80 series drive shaft

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Front driveshaft clearance for mini truck ujoints on the 4l60e.

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New driveshaft bolts came in. No more bluetooth front drive shaft. List of to dos is getting small.

Whats left:

-order/install rubber spring isolators
-fix air leak in rear locker
-find a place to flex out axles and measure bump stops so tires dont hit fenders
-install bushing for spring hitting frame
-find some hitch pins the right diameter for front sway bar disconnects
unrelated to this swap but i still need to do
-change advance adapters adapter bearing

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Also, metaltech sent me the wrong upper control arms. Evidently the prado 120 and the fj80 upper arms are ALMOST the same. The 80 arms are like an inch shorter but have all of the same other dimensions. My uppers had to be adjusted all the way in to fit and ive been adjusting pinion angle with the lowers. Theyre going to send me the correct uppers and i can move my rear axle forward a half inch and adjust my pinion with the uppers. Right now its pushed back too far a half inch and my lower threads are adjusted just about all the way out.

Uppers all the way in
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Lowers just about all the way out
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That exhaust is damn pretty.

Are you concerned with heat from that crossover pipe shortening the life of your output flange seals or the grease in the U joint? I would've integrated a heat shield, but it looks like it's tucked up so tight that might not be feasible.
 
That exhaust is damn pretty.

Are you concerned with heat from that crossover pipe shortening the life of your output flange seals or the grease in the U joint? I would've integrated a heat shield, but it looks like it's tucked up so tight that might not be feasible.
Ive not had any issues so far with temps. Since i have a 4l60, I monitor my trans temp like a hawk. The tubing is a little closer to the trans pan vs the ujoint and my trans temp is consistently 160*.

For the Ujoints, i regrease my ujoints and slip yoke every oil change and ive never seen anything too crazy coming out. The grease isnt really discolored or anything. I had to tuck it up real high like that so the exhaust wouldnt be the lowest point. My transfer case is actually teh lowest point.

Im actually eventually going to build a skid plate that will cover a good portion of the exhaust and crossmember and transfer case but i just havent gotten around to it. Probably going to need to leave the exhaust portion as open as possible while still offering protection so the temps dont get all crazy.

I havent noticed much discernable heat on the transfer case. When im under my truck i get lazy and instead of getting up off the floor and shifting the shifter inside the truck to neutral to move the shafts around, i just grab the high/neutral/low linkage on the twin stick under the truck. Even after driving that linkage isnt even hot enough to make it uncomfortable tograb by hand
 
Operation Shove some plastic in there is a success.

I was researching different abrasion resistant plastics and found UHMW (ultra high molecular weight polyethylene). It is frequently used for wear strips, chain guides, and other places where hardness and wear resistance is used. I found a 2 inch x 12 inch strip on amazon for like $4 so i bought it and mounted it next to the rear spring that was scraping my frame rail and making a big squeak.

Shockingly, it works. I still get a little noise because i dont have the upper spring rubber isolators on yet and the other side needs a small piece, but most of the squeak is gone. It only squeaks on huge bumps now.



Spring before you can see the little rust spot where the spring rubs the frame once its compressed

4ylEtOTh.jpg



After. I just used an existing bolt hole on my frame rail and bolted the plastic to the frame. Total time, 10 min. Total cost $4

DyZAEuLh.jpg



overcome.jpg
 
The bluetooth internal air hose isnt working right.

on a serious note, is there a secret to installing these and keeping the hose in tact? Did i have the hose cross over the ring gear at the wrong spot? When i installed this i rotated the diff a lot to feel if it was catching and couldnt feel any resistance.

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Original Hose routing:


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Operation Shove some plastic in there is a success.

I was researching different abrasion resistant plastics and found UHMW (ultra high molecular weight polyethylene). It is frequently used for wear strips, chain guides, and other places where hardness and wear resistance is used. I found a 2 inch x 12 inch strip on amazon for like $4 so i bought it and mounted it next to the rear spring that was scraping my frame rail and making a big squeak.

Shockingly, it works. I still get a little noise because i dont have the upper spring rubber isolators on yet and the other side needs a small piece, but most of the squeak is gone. It only squeaks on huge bumps now.



Spring before you can see the little rust spot where the spring rubs the frame once its compressed

4ylEtOTh.jpg



After. I just used an existing bolt hole on my frame rail and bolted the plastic to the frame. Total time, 10 min. Total cost $4

DyZAEuLh.jpg



overcome.jpg
I read "shove some plastic in there" to the tune of "Pour Some Sugar On Me".

I need to stop listening to 80s rock at work....
 
Round 2 on the diff. Its installed and not leaking so fingers crossed. Installing it under the truck was actually easier to guide the copper tube in than the human crane method i used when the axle was out. I couldnt really see the tube from above. Fingers crossed this works out this time. Tcase is coming out tomorrow and hopefully right back in. Got a care package from @orangefj45 to fix what is hopefully a bad tcase adapter bearing. Then we will be back on the road

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