60 Series Axle swap with the Trail Tailor Coil Conversion

[dbbowen]

Anyone have any thoughts on this? Im a little stumped. I can’t get the inner snap ring groove to line up right to get the snap ring on. Axles are pulled out as far as they’ll go. It’s like they need to come out 2-3 mm more for the snap ring to fall into the inner groove.

They’re RCV chromo axles.

Using aisin locking hubs for the 80 series.

My drive flanges that I removed are the shorter style

Anyone run into this before?

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Two things right off since you rebuilt everything and new axles/birfs.

1) Make sure the wheel bearing races are seated all the way.

2) The inner axle shaft round ring that holds to the birf can be driven in too far and pushed by the groove and into the actual splines.

Both could be potential causes.

Jason
TT

 

[dbbowen]

Two things right off since you rebuilt everything and new axles/birfs.

1) Make sure the wheel bearing races are seated all the way.

2) The inner axle shaft round ring that holds to the birf can be driven in too far and pushed by the groove and into the actual splines.

Both could be potential causes.

Jason
TT

So the weird thing, the drive flange fits perfectly with the snap ring. The snap ring has freedom to spin around and everything. It’s like the inner hub gear sticks out too far and is hitting on the spindle


@TRAIL TAILOR do you ever run into this on your swaps? Mine is a weird 1994 axle with abs but the shorter birfs.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Where did you buy the hubs? If not from Kurt @cruiseroutfit I don't trust any "Aisin fastfood" seller as I like to call them. Several knock offs now and have had issues with a few now. Only time I had an issue was using the 80 freewheel hub. If using the 60 hub... never an issue.

I only use the short pre-4/94 birfs in my builds. I buy them out of Australia.

I had a set of Nitro and RCV birfs that wouldn't take the ring and had to machined them to fit.

J

 

[dbbowen]

Where did you buy the hubs? If not from Kurt @cruiseroutfit I don't trust any "Aisin fastfood" seller as I like to call them. Several knock offs now and have had issues with a few now. Only time I had an issue was using the 80 freewheel hub. If using the 60 hub... never an issue.

I only use the short pre-4/94 birfs in my builds. I buy them out of Australia.

I had a set of Nitro and RCV birfs that wouldn't take the ring and had to machined them to fit.

J

I bought these from @cruiseroutfit. Talking to him now. So, these ARE THE 80 free wheel hub. I had the round base 60 series ones but thought those were incorrect so he literally just swapped them out for these. Damn it.

So when you use lock outs for the fj60 you don’t ever have any issues?

If it stops snowing this weekend I might try and pull a hub off of of my 60 series to check to see if I’ve got the same issue with them

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

I bought these from @cruiseroutfit. Talking to him now. So, these ARE THE 80 free wheel hub. I had the round base 60 series ones but thought those were incorrect so he literally just swapped them out for these. Damn it.

So when you use lock outs for the fj60 you don’t ever have any issues?

If it stops snowing this weekend I might try and pull a hub off of of my 60 series to check to see if I’ve got the same issue with them

Then the hubs are good...

The depth of the 80 hubs are a tad shallower and don't play well with the RCV and Nitro birfs in my experience. Main reason is they split hairs to make one birf fit both applications.

If I use OEM pre-4/94 birfs I NEVER have an issue with 80 freewheel hubs. If I use aftermarket birfs... always have to make a mod with 80 freewheel hubs. NEVER an issue with 60 hubs.

 

[dbbowen]

Then the hubs are good...

The depth of the 80 hubs are a tad shallower and don't play well with the RCV and Nitro birfs in my experience. Main reason is they split hairs to make one birf fit both applications.

If I use OEM pre-4/94 birfs I NEVER have an issue with 80 freewheel hubs. If I use aftermarket birfs... always have to make a mod with 80 freewheel hubs. NEVER an issue with 60 hubs.

Huh. I had no idea. I figured they were all the same! What mod do you do to the 80 hubs? I was thinking I could just use a cut off wheel on the splines and try and take out like 3mm or so to get the snap ring to fit.

There doesn’t seem to be much material sitting proud on the back of the free hub to take off with say a belt sander or something

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Huh. I had no idea. I figured they were all the same! What mod do you do to the 80 hubs? I was thinking I could just use a cut off wheel on the splines and try and take out like 3mm or so to get the snap ring to fit.

There doesn’t seem to be much material sitting proud on the back of the free hub to take off with say a belt sander or something

3mm is a LOT to correct... something is not right IMO. Did you check races and that the birf to inner axle has a slight play/movement once assembled?

Most of the time my issues are like 1/2 of the c-clip thickness.. .05-.08" .. you are double that at least..


J

 

[dbbowen]

3mm is a LOT to correct... something is not right IMO. Did you check races and that the birf to inner axle has a slight play/movement once assembled?

Most of the time my issues are like 1/2 of the c-clip thickness.. .05-.08" .. you are double that at least..


J

The axles were pre assembled and greased by RCV. I don’t think it’s 3mm. I was just using that because that seems to be the width of a cut off disc haha. When the drive flange is installed all of the spacing is completely dead on.

It’s really hard to get in photos but it looks like the edge of the groove for the c clip is like just barely inside the edge of the hub gear. Like I’d say a mm or less more than likely

 

[dbbowen]

3mm is a LOT to correct... something is not right IMO. Did you check races and that the birf to inner axle has a slight play/movement once assembled?

Most of the time my issues are like 1/2 of the c-clip thickness.. .05-.08" .. you are double that at least..


J

So i just measured the width of the splined area of both the drive flange that fits perfectly and the free hub with my digital calipers.

Drive flange - 22.25mm
Free hub - 22.83mm


Looks like my delta is .58mm and thats whats keeping the snap ring from lining up on the axle :/

 

[dbbowen]

Ok so posting this in case anyone runs into this in the future. The stock fj80 cclip (31007) is 2.4mm wide. There is a thinner 1.8mm c clip (31010) and what do you know? its pretty much exactly the difference of my flange to hub measurements. Ordering from CruiserTeq monday. Can not thank @cruiseroutfit and @TRAIL TAILOR enough for getting this all figured out with me today

 

[Miloslavich]

this is sick. keep it up!!

 

[dbbowen]

this is sick. keep it up!!

Thanks man!

 

[dbbowen]

The new C Clips Worked perfectly. Popped right in the grooves. They also revealed that i need to remove some material from the ends of the RCV axles. So once my Flush mount needle zerk fittings get here, i Just need to chop the ends of the axle shafts and the front axle is basically done besides gear oil.


Finished up the front brake lines. I wasnt liking how the NiCopp brake lines were looking on the rear axle, and they were way too easy to bend for my piece of mind so i went back with the tried and true poly coated steel for the front axle. I now live 2,000 miles away from my buddies eastwood flare tool, so i had to use the crap autozone rental one and it was giving me issues so I just bought pre flared hose and kind of made the lengths work.

I Cut the tab off the driver side of the diff, and welded it to the passenger side, then bought a new Tee fitting from toyota for the 80 series rear axle and cut the bracket and welded it to the newly placed tab. This pretty much puts the Tee fitting right in the same location as the fj60 axle. The benefit of having the prop valve on the MC on the fj60 is that there are kind of just two brake likes coming out of the MC. One going to each axle. Super simple compared to the dumpsterfire of ABS and lines that is on the 80 series. Toyota shorted me 2 clips to hold the brake line and its been snowing so still waiting on those too

I also went back redid the rear axle brake lines. The NiCopp was ugly.

 

[dbbowen]

Welp everything fits. The combination of chopping the end of the axle off, @cruiseroutfit s snap rings and the flush zerk all work perfect together. Front axles are largely complete. Just got to start painting the @TRAIL TAILOR brackets and find some time where my truck can be down for multiple days.

Kind of lame RCV makes you cut the end of the axles. Especially with how much these upgraded ones cost.

Every toyota axle ive ever built ive rebuilt and repainted the hubs. This is the first time ive bought brand new ones and man. Popping these on the axle fresh from the box is freaking awesome.

 

[dbbowen]

Also, kind of unrelated, I left one of my tool bags in moab on the trip to oregon from TN. It was mostly pliers and picks and stuff like that. Whoever found it in the parking lot of my hotel was gifted a bag of snap on pliers, picks, and misc random stuff.

I was planning on reordering my snap on SRP2B Snap ring Pliers but found these on amazon. These are the exact freaking same pliers and cost $20 versus $80 from the truck. They are so good.

 

[dbbowen]

Finishing out some mise en place items to try and get everything ready for the swap. Shooting to do it in march. Really really hope i can knock it out in 4-6 days, as my 60 is my daily driver. Im also dropping my fuel tank and putting an intank fuel pump in it too, so this might be a little optimistic because im doing this solo, but its nice to have goals haha

Thanks to @Jdog i got some good eye to eye measurements for the rear lower control arms and front and rear panhards. Ill have to set up the upper rear control arms once the axle is under the truck and just double check everything, but this is an awesome start.

Its kind of cool, after moving to oregon, Metaltech and iron man are literally a short drive over the hill from me. Picked these up at their stores and talked a bit with the employees while i was there.

Been putting this one off for a long long time.

Did a full acetone wipe down and taped off where im estimating the HAZ to be on all the brackets and getting 2 coats of primer and 2 of paint on all of the brackets and items that will be welded to the frame from the Kit. This is an extra step but its nice because it lets you get more paint into the nooks and crannies, and also minimizes paint overspray on your vehicle. Sometimes if the part is smaller, it burns off some of the paint but youll be painting the welds anyways so it works out.


I sure miss parking in my garage

 

[dbbowen]

Change of plans. @ChaserFJ60 is going to print me another AC bezel, this time eliminating all of the FJ60 switches completely. These are the switches ill be using. The defrost, and rear heat will just be rewired through the wiring on the stock fj60 harness. The Fog light switch will power the Axle lights. Im going to lose the dual beam functionality but oh well. These are either from a toyota Hiace or a toyota prado or the weird cab over work truck from overseas

For the rear wiper, Im leaning towards this switch from a firstgen4runner. It has the same functionality of the stock FJ60 switch. On-Off-mist. It dosnt really match, so im trying to see if i can find something else before buying one.

The whole point in swapping these all out is to have backlit switches that all brighten and dim with my rheostat.

Just closing the loop on this post. I posted this in the 60 porn section but this is the wiring for all of the switches. Once i sand, bondo, and paint the new bezel it should just be a little bit of wiring to integrate them into my 60 series dash harnes.

Figuring this kind of stuff is really fun imo. Similar setup with my other dash switches and cruise control. Kinda have make the switch work for the 60 series circuits.

I had an extra 60 series defrost switch so the wiring for that one is already done. It just plugs in and is done. The 4runner wiper switch is just depinning and repinning 5 wires, and the rear heat is 2 wires and reversing the wires on the rear squirter in the quarter panel. The front fog light will need a relay to power the front axle lights from cruiser cult.

 

[Rustyj41]

Do you have the current draw through the rear heater switch and the rear wiper switch?

I’m switching to switches that are rated for 3-5 amps

 

[dbbowen]

Do you have the current draw through the rear heater switch and the rear wiper switch?

I’m switching to switches that are rated for 3-5 amps

A while ago i read somewhere that they are rated for something like 3 amps. Dont quote me on that though. This rear heat switch is set up differently than every other 80 series switch ive ever used though and i cant find any info on it. I was planning on testing the amp draw with my multimeter when i actually install them. That being said, the rear wiper doesnt run through a relay on the fj60 ewd and the 4runner doesnt run throughj a relay either. Just the rear wiper park switch and the motor.

The rear heater on my 60 doesnt run through a relay, its just interrupts ground to the blower motor. Ill probably need to add a relay to get the switch to send ground or reverse the polarity of the switch when i install it. Thats the one switch thats going to take some thinking when i install it