Also, gotta ask: How experienced of a mechanic do you consider yourself?
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This! If fluid and grease are mixing and rather quickly, that means seal is not making proper contact with the axle shaft. From the limited information, it seems as though the problems started after installation of the RCV axles. Mic the diameter of the RCV and the OEM to determine if they are different. Check the OEM axles for unusual wear around the sealing surface.So if everything was fine before you did the job, the housing is probably fine. I would maybe mic the diameter of the new axles vs your originals. Axle fluid is getting past the seal. Have you tried going back to your original Birfs? Also, are both sides leaking at the same rate?
Yes. Problem didn’t occur until I replaced the axleswhen did the problem start? after installing rcv shafts?
You are lubing the seals before you install the axles Right !Yes. Problem didn’t occur until I replaced the axles
^ If I’m not mistaken, those are known to not work as well on full time trucks, and OEM is most recommended.
The Marlin seals are much stiffer than the OEM seals. I had a friend install Marlin seals. He was replacing them after six months and birf soup.what's the problem with the Marlin seals?
I had issues with oem seals leaking a bit, went to Marlin's and no problems since.
What would be the procedure for checking if a housing is bent?I hear ya but people bend housings "not doing anything". You don't need to be jumping the truck or running the truck into a ditch at 50mph to bend a housing. It's not hard to check, especially if you are pulling the knuckles apart.
I’m curious to know as well. I’m in the same boat my left knuckle keeps leaking. Going on third rebuild in last 2 years. The right side has been done with no issues. For this next one, I ordered up some axles from RCV and spindle with new bushing to see if that helps. I cleaned out the breather as well so no issues there. Took off an ABS tone ring today. Some of the edges got deformed when I knocked it if of with the brass drift. Nothing crazy but would this cause any issues for the ABS.What would be the procedure for checking if a housing is bent?
I would use a small file to clean up the edges and make sure nothing stick out past the OD of the ring or past the flat side.I’m curious to know as well. I’m in the same boat my left knuckle keeps leaking. Going on third rebuild in last 2 years. The right side has been done with no issues. For this next one, I ordered up some axles from RCV and spindle with new bushing to see if that helps. I cleaned out the breather as well so no issues there. Took off an ABS tone ring today. Some of the edges got deformed when I knocked it if of with the brass drift. Nothing crazy but would this cause any issues for the ABS.
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Thanks for the info. I was wondering about the marks on the center line of the ridges. I didn’t think it actually made contact, but makes since that is would.I would use a small file to clean up the edges and make sure nothing stick out past the OD of the ring or past the flat side.
The sensor counts the number of bumps it sees as it goes round and round, they are not driving anything. You just don't want them to drag on anything.
Do you recall what size bushings and DOM worked for you?The only way I know of to check if the axle housing is bent is with a empty third member with the right size bushing in it and a piece dom tubing passed through it and the alignment rings at each side of the axle housing.
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The set up is usually used to see if you are warping the housing while welding on it. In this application you weld a little then turn the tube if it starts to bind you know that your are welding to much and you need to slow down.
We have used the same set up to check for bent housings, if the housing is bent the tube will not pass through.
Of course the housing does not need to be removed from the vehicle and strapped to the I beam for that propose.
The hole set up belongs to my friend in our wheeling group, so the short answer is no.Do you recall what size bushings and DOM worked for you?
It's not supposed to make contact. It's supposed to have 0.005"-0.020" clearance ish. It is a proximity sensor and needs the specific count as it rotates. The computer measures the rate count between all four wheels to determine wheel speed and apply braking as needed.Thanks for the info. I was wondering about the marks on the center line of the ridges. I didn’t think it actually made contact, but makes since that is would.
Swap the OEM spring into the Marlin.^ If I’m not mistaken, those are known to not work as well on full time trucks, and OEM is most recommended.
go with the heavy-duty inner seals from Marlin