THIS thread is about a Weber carb... but, while you are on timing, check what @Weber Sarge said in the first paragraph of post# 28.
4th gear & under load, feels like the 2F's binding
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GA Architect
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- #22
Stripe - If I take the vacuum advance line off the dizzy and plug it, is there something that I should be looking/hearing/feeling for?
GA Architect
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- #23
Thanks Danny....I'll be sure to open the dizzy and check the advance mechanism.
This might be a good time to install the Trollhole dizzy & new coil......
78fj40mg
TLCA #23510
This might be a good time to install the Trollhole dizzy & new coil......
I wouldn't do that as yet, the first step should be to locate and correct the current issue prior to replacing the dizzy.
GA Architect
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- #25
Yep, I'll be sure I've found the issue before I go replacing items. If the dizzy has any issues, and only then, it will be time for the back-up.
X2^^ you could create more problems and not solve the current problem.
To be sure we are on the same page... describe, in different words, what you mean by 'binding'.
To be sure we are on the same page... describe, in different words, what you mean by 'binding'.
Well just see if it makes a difference. See if it gains power with it disconnected. However if you feel it struggling-do not force it. The popping in concerning. May be worth taking it to a shop to have it diagnosed.
GA Architect
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- #29
The timing is/was way advanced....wonder why.....the vacuum advance mechanism on the dizzy is shot so the PO must have over compensated for it. I opened the cap and tried to move the advancer, but it wouldn't budge. I put a good amount of pressure in it, and click, it became unstuck. I put vacuum on the dizzy advancer with the cap off, and could hear the air being sucked into the advancer and not creating any vacuum at all....Well, at least I know what one item is that needs addressing.
Found this thread on Vac advance repair. Question, can you take the advancer mechanism out with the dizzy still installed? If so, any advice would be appreciated.
Maybe a good time to install the Trollhole electronic dizzy and new Toyota 90919-0215 coil if I can't get it repaired?
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I don't know anything about the trollhole stuff. But I like the fj60 distributors because if you want to go tbi in the future it will work with the fj60 one.
GA Architect
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- #31
My FJ60 dizzy and igniter will go on the '86 2F I'm having built. I would put it on now, but the side cover is with the block.
I'll give my Hole's dizzy a go this week and report back.
My hesitation issue - or stumbling while trying to accelerate - appears to have been caused by a vacuum build up inside the fuel tank. I've swapped fuel caps, services the entire fuel system, verified pressures and it seems I finally resolved it.
I've not had a 'pop' in the drivetrain, so I can't help with that issue. Hope the dizzy issue resolved tour problem. I think this really resolved mine :
I've not had a 'pop' in the drivetrain, so I can't help with that issue. Hope the dizzy issue resolved tour problem. I think this really resolved mine :
Great news Erik!!
78fj40mg
TLCA #23510
Great work! Excellent troubleshooting skills!!
GA Architect
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- #35
Erik,
Do you have your fuel take hooked into a charcoal canister? That is where my fuel take is vented too.
Thanks for the info....I'll check my fuel tank pressure if it happens again.
Yes, i have the poly tank from CCOT (found this paperwork) and it is hooked up JUST like shown :
I added a CJ series vented filter just befor my Weber 38 carb, and routed the 'vent' back to the tank return. The fuel seperator behind my passenger seat, is routed to the charcoal cannister also. One hose goes under the passanger floorboard, the second goes across the engine compartment to the Vacuum Switching Valve. My VSV is not connected to anything, so the hose deadends there. I think there was a smog connection that fed excess fumes back to the carb thru a vacumm feed - but I've de-smogged.
I have not looked into the canister any further - is it serviceable ? Can u replace the charcoal? I dont know if the filter can affect vacuum if it is clogged / blocked.
GA Architect
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- #37
When I received my rig last March, I noticed a lot of pressure on the fuel tank when I went to fill it up. Tracing how the fuel system vents, mine had a clogged check valve just past the fuel separator. Replaced it, and no problems since.
As for the pop I've heard, I'm almost certain it isn't the drivetrain. It didn't sound like it came from under my rig, but more from the engine compartment.
Being my dizzy's vacuum advance isn't working and just sucking air, I have a vacuum leak into the carb. I'm going to plug the EGR cut port and drive it to see if it does any better until I can resolve my vacuum advance issue.
I am curious what your oil looks like. Too much advance when lugging the engine up a hill can cause rod bearing damage. I would drain a little bit of oil and see if its all sparkly.
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- #39
I just replace my oil & filter last weekend and I always check for stuff in the oil. It appeared no different that other times, just dark used oil but no apparent sparkles. It has really good oil pressure, so say's the gauge. I haven't really pushed the engine too hard, and this situation has only happened four times. When it happens, I'm quick to down shift from 4th to 3rd once I feel it binding or lugging......But at an idle, the 2F sounds great!
As soon as I get some time to wrench on it, I've got some items to address. Thus, I'll start using the process of elimination before making any rash/rush to judgment.
If your oil cap is coming off by itself, you are getting "blow-by" through the rings.
If this is the case, you should be seeing oily residue around the valve cover (where the cap is), where higher pressure exhaust and oil mist are coming out.
Can you have a leak-down test done? That would tell you more about the condition of yoiur valves and rings.
Good luck.
If this is the case, you should be seeing oily residue around the valve cover (where the cap is), where higher pressure exhaust and oil mist are coming out.
Can you have a leak-down test done? That would tell you more about the condition of yoiur valves and rings.
Good luck.
