4Runner - Purchase? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Here is a better walk-around video. He starts it and you can really hear the miss.



I also wish they would pull JB Weld from the market. Nobody knows how to use it and everyone thinks it is a substitute for actual welding. It's just fancy glue.
 
Last edited:
I'm looking at this 1989 4Runner in southern California. It's a 3.0 liter truck with 153k miles. It was garage-kept for 15 years and is in really great shape. Unfortunately, shortly after the seller bought it, some knucklehead in a dually backed into it in a parking lot. Crunched the driver's side door and fender, but the truck is otherwise unmolested. Sale includes an OEM replacement door and fender, but will obviously need to be painted to match. Seller also base-lined the fluids, swapped to manual Aisin hubs, added new 15"x8" Trail Master wheels and Falken Wildpeak 33" tires, replaced the front bumper (new Toyota OEM), and added a rear add-a-leaf with front ball joint spacers. Asking $8k. What do you guys think?

Seller's description is below:

"1989 4Runner, 3.0 liter, 153,000 original miles. Interior is 9/10. Every interior part is intact. New calipers, rotors, pads, wheel bearing, inner and outer tie rods, upper and lower ball joints, new steering box, idler arm, a/c works and blows cold!!! Changed on driveline fluids with redline. This 4Runner is mechanically sounds and does t need anything. I bought it with 150000 miles so all the parts I’ve put on it have less than 3000 miles. I also used Sankei 555 for everything so no Chinese crap. Will also come with rear bumper which is perfect and factory hitch that it came with."

979-F17-CD-FB6-D-4635-8625-8-CB421-A1956-A.jpg


D8217736-BC8-D-4-BFE-9-DAC-D2-F3-FD2-B5997.jpg


82-D46787-0-DD6-4286-95-CF-9-C8615-A3-BE08.jpg


A6-BD62-F6-53-B6-46-F4-B600-EA390-BE34-DB8.jpg
 
If I was in the market for a grey 1st Gen, that would make my list. Looks like a solid deal at $8K (there may be some wiggle room there). Looks very well cared for.
 
If I was in the market for a grey 1st Gen, that would make my list. Looks like a solid deal at $8K (there may be some wiggle room there). Looks very well cared for.

Thanks for the feedback. I think it's a solid deal too. Very intersted in this truck, but hard to coordinate the sale during a pandemic.
 
@Will Van that '91 is 10 min. from me. If you need any help - going to see it, middle-manning payment, picking it up, parking it at my house, taking to the shipper... let me know. But, I do like the gray one more ;)

Also, ACC Garage is 30 min. away and considered one of the best Toyota truck shops on this half of the country. They do a PPI for around $150 (I think).
 
Last edited:
@Will Van that '91 is 10 min. from me. If you need any help - going to see it, middle-manning payment, picking it up, parking it at my house, taking to the shipper... let me know. But, I do like the gray one more ;)

Also, ACC Garage is 30 min. away and considered one of the best Toyota truck shop on this half of the country. They do a PPI for around $150 (I think).

Thanks so much for the offer! I'm going to just keep looking. I'm not exactly sure what I want.

I found this immaculate 1995 truck in Denver. Price is a little steep, but it appears to be perfect. Look at that interior!

00-S0-S-lo-Hvz-SXu2it-0-CI0t2-1200x900.jpg


engine-bay.jpg


Interior.jpg

Toyota 4Runner 1995 (2nd gen) 95 LOW MILES - cars & trucks - by...
 
colorado truck is clean but price is way too high, granted 2nd gen's are like cruisers in that the market is all over the place. But plenty out there with engine issues for under $1k- got mine for $150...
Phoenix one looks nice for the price
 
I also wish they would pull JB Weld from the market. Nobody knows how to use it and everyone thinks it is a substitute for actual welding. It's just fancy glue.
You take that back! Duct tape and bailing wire is for farm hacks. JB Weld is for pro level repairs.
(Side note, a buddy threw a rod in a ‘56 Packard V8 in 2002. Put the pieces of engine block back together with JB Weld and it’s still running today. Even gets flogged at the drag strip once in a while.)
 
(Side note, a buddy threw a rod in a ‘56 Packard V8 in 2002. Put the pieces of engine block back together with JB Weld and it’s still running today. Even gets flogged at the drag strip once in a while.)

What? That's amazing. Pro level indeed.
 
You take that back! Duct tape and bailing wire is for farm hacks. JB Weld is for pro level repairs.
(Side note, a buddy threw a rod in a ‘56 Packard V8 in 2002. Put the pieces of engine block back together with JB Weld and it’s still running today. Even gets flogged at the drag strip once in a while.)
What? That's amazing. Pro level indeed.

I stand by my statement - JB Weld is for idiots.
 
I've come across several interesting trucks that were in decent condition, and reasonably priced, but had recently had a Maaco respray paint job.

I've always considered Maaco to do sub-par paint and body work. Can anyone speak to their quality? Am I right? Or is that old data?
 
No such thing as a good cheap paintjob.

That's kinda what I was thinking. Everyone wants to do a cheap-ass Maaco paint job and then double the price for the truck. "Spray and pray."
 
Prep work is 95% of paint work.
I frankly rarely see "great" paint jobs.
Unless you have a pristine body already a real paint job is going to be a couple grand at least.
People lose sight that real professionals are bringing down 100$+/hr. How much do you want to spend on prep?
 
Prep work is 95% of paint work.
I frankly rarely see "great" paint jobs.
Unless you have a pristine body already a real paint job is going to be a couple grand at least.
People lose sight that real professionals are bringing down 100$+/hr. How much do you want to spend on prep?

You're 100% right. Paint and body shops are all insurance-driven now. They're just trying to churn out volume. Even if you have a truck with a pristine body, you still have to prep the truck to lay down fresh paint. That's a huge pain in the ass. So most places skimp and just re-spray. It will look good long enough to take photos and flip the truck, but eventually it will start to peel.

Thanks for confirming what I already knew. I just need someone to talk me back down to earth occasionally.
 
You're 100% right. Paint and body shops are all insurance-driven now. They're just trying to churn out volume. Even if you have a truck with a pristine body, you still have to prep the truck to lay down fresh paint. That's a huge pain in the ass. So most places skimp and just re-spray. It will look good long enough to take photos and flip the truck, but eventually it will start to peel.

Thanks for confirming what I already knew. I just need someone to talk me back down to earth occasionally.
Take into consideration that the folks that work in body shops are trying to pay their bills and keep food on their tables, not just “churn out volume”. Prep work is extremely time intensive and therefore expensive if you’re paying a fair wage. Nobody is getting rich as a bodyman or woman. Yes the insurance industry is driving the body repair industry, but that doesn’t mean you can’t find a great bodyshop to fit your needs. Just keep in mind, you get what you pay for and Maaco/Earl Scheib prices reflect that.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom