4Runner Calipers, T100 MC, Rotors and Backing Plate Eliminator install (1 Viewer)

[ntsqd]

One of the downsides to running w/o the backing plate is that the road grime thrown around under the truck ends up reducing the lifespan of the inner brake pad by getting on the inner rotor surface. The other deal is that the rotors are designed to pump air from the center to the OD. Doing away with the backing plates won't affect this much, but it will result in differential cooling of the rotor since the backing plate approximates the cooling restriction that the wheels have on the outer wear surface of the rotor. The hotter that your brakes normally operate, the more this is significant.

If you do a lot of highway miles I'd suggest leaving the plates alone.

If yours is primarily a trail machine then have at it.

If you really want to increase brake cooling, modify the backing plate to duct air into the center of the rotor right at the wheel bearings. I have seen scoops built onto backing plates and ribs added that form a bit of a labyrinth seal at the ID of the rotor's inner surface. If you do make a scoop I'd suggest some wire mesh over the opening to keep the gravel out.

 

[Godwin]

If you really want to increase brake cooling, modify the backing plate to duct air into the center of the rotor right at the wheel bearings. I have seen scoops built onto backing plates and ribs added that form a bit of a labyrinth seal at the ID of the rotor's inner surface. If you do make a scoop I'd suggest some wire mesh over the opening to keep the gravel out.

The FJ62 backing plates incorporate these scoops.

 

[Poser]

Does your parking brake work?


How often do you use it?

 

[Spike Strip]

Does your parking brake work?


How often do you use it?

Works perfectly. Use it every time I park ... ( sorry, just saw this and wanted to finish the post)

 

[ElliottB]

Also, don't forget when you install these, the bleeder valve goes at the top. A 10-hour day in the garage is a good catalyst for making dumb mistakes. Thanks for this thread spike, your work is always so clean!

 

[sl33py]

Great Writeup Spike! Like everyone else the pics help! And are of great detailed quality!

How much did you grind before using the spacer - can you show a pic? did you grind enough to not need one?

This is when i wish there was a "karma" or other rating button on this forum - this is very helpful!!

also - if anyone finds the less expensive Raybestos part #'s and info please post them up.

Thx!

 

[Spike Strip]

How much did you grind before using the spacer - can you show a pic? did you grind enough to not need one?

You can prolly grind enough not to need a spacer, but using the 1/4" I didn't have to grind at all on the passenger side... People posted in other threads that you can grind the snot out of the things, but it kinda made me nervous to grind so much... only 'cuz I was afraid of ruining my expensive new caliper!

The spacer was cheap and easy and works fine.

If you use the stock chromie wheels, they clear with no issues.

 

[ntsqd]

I spent two years designing brake calipers and related parts. Part of where you're likely to need to grind is a high stress zone. I wouldn't encourage any grinding at all.

 

[Mace]

I spent two years designing brake calipers and related parts. Part of where you're likely to need to grind is a high stress zone. I wouldn't encourage any grinding at all.

True, but I have never seen a caliper leak from a mild clearancing.

 

[ntsqd]

Some safety margin was built into the caliper to allow for casting variation. If you grind on a caliper that has a lot of excess material in the high stress zone then it's not likely to be an issue. If you grind on a casting that had nothing left over then it will be an issue. Short of doing some CMM derived modeling of that exact machined casting and then doing some FEA on that part I don't know how you would be able to tell which one is safe to grind on and which one is not. I highly doubt that anyone here, including myself, would go to that much trouble just to decide if it is safe to grind on the caliper.

Slightly safer option (pending wheel stud length issues) is to use a thin wheel spacer and not grind at all.

 

[Spike Strip]

Just a few more pix 'cuz people have PM'd asking ...

I didn't grind too much off before going to the spacer as I just didn't like the idea of messing with a critical brake component like that... I'm not an engineer, so I try to err on the safe side.

 

[Spike Strip]

This is what I eventually ended up with after grinding...

Areas in red were clearanced, Clarance.

But if I did it again, I wouldn't grind, I'd just use the narrow spacers.

 

[Mace]

That's a lot of grinding. What rims were you using again?

(Keep in mind, the BS has almost nothing to do with needing to grind a caliper. It is the rim design that makes the difference)

 

[Spike Strip]

American Racing ... 15" - proper BS.

I have different rims/tires I use. Both AR ... But one has a bit of a "lip" on the inside of the spokes; the other doesn't . Obviously the one with the "lip" has more interference.

 

[sl33py]

how much bigger are these calipers than stock? They are longer and wider right? The extra width should be the only issue w/ them possibly hitting the rim correct?

 

[Spike Strip]

Yes. You have to trim the dust shield if you keep it.

 

[VTCDN]

Spike Strip

Master Cyl is from ???

Can't seem to get the part #'s figured from the internet suppliers plus.

Thanks VT.

PLus rear rotors are in the works also

 

[Spike Strip]

Spike Strip

Master Cyl is from ???

Can't seem to get the part #'s figured from the internet suppliers plus.

Thanks VT.

PLus rear rotors are in the works also

If you're planning on going 4-wheel disc, then don't use the MC I did. Use one that's designed for 4 -wheel disc... You'll have to research that to find the models, I don't know. I think the later (post '95 T100s?) are 4-wheel disc, but I 'm not sure, you'll have to verify.

Maybe start a new thread asking what others have done for rear disc MCs ...

 

[jmarsh1977]

So I'm replacing my failed SSBC Monster calipers from Man-a-Fre w/ this swap. Since I didn't have my original FJ62 setup I don't know if the hardware will fit the 4 runner setup. Can anyone tell me if the the original FJ62 hardware parts below fit the 4runner calipers or do I need to order 4runner hardware?

2ea. "Bird Clips" 10468-92003 - TOYOTA
4ea. "Pins" 00240-96158 - TOYOTA

I also ordered the following based on my interpretation of what the original poster used:
47748-60030 Spring, anti-rattle (the one that straddles the pads and hooks into the caliper pins)
84512-01200 Washer, spring (caliper washers)
90101-12144 Bolt, hexagon (caliper bolts)

I also ordered 04465-YZZA5 pads but I think they are the wrong ones. The Toyota parts rep said they don't make shims for this particular part and they have a funny tab on the side that is closest to the axle. Are these the wrong pads for this setup? Does anyone have the correct part number for the pads and shims?

Thanks for any help; I am eager to get the cruiser back on the road!

 

[Spike Strip]

You do need to order 4R hardware ... LC pins and clips are different.

The pads I'll check on when I get home ... I kept the box, I think... It's the box on the right in the first pic, first post.

Rockauto.com now carries a lot of Aisin stuff, btw, so you can get the OEM from them.