4Runner Calipers, T100 MC, Rotors and Backing Plate Eliminator install

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On a rather unrelated note: where does the fluid level sensor lead? Is there an idiot light that's supposed to come on in the cab or something?
 
On a rather unrelated note: where does the fluid level sensor lead? Is there an idiot light that's supposed to come on in the cab or something?

Yes, the brake MC reservoir sensor leads to the BRAKE light in the instrument cluster and comes on when the fluid is too low.
 
For the brake pads, I ordered part # 04465-35061, which is listed as Pad Kit, Disc-Brake, but I remember it just being pads only.

And I "think" I ordered:

04945-35040 - Shim Kit
04947-60080 - "Fitting Kit" (Springs and things)

I called Cruiser Dan on this one and he hooked me up with what I needed - I can't find the invoice, so you may want to call him.

Search for posts by D'animal. He has Cruiser Dan's contact # at American Toyota listed in his sig line.

When you order stuff, remember to "remind" the parts guy he's ordering for a '95 V6 4R - or you'll get the wrong parts

If you haven't ordered yet - and if I had to do it over - I'd just get a fully loaded set of calipers - they come with pads and all the hardware you need. Rockauto.com has 'em for a $100 a side, for the best Raybestos ... Marlincrawler.com has them for $120 a side LINKY And there are obviously others.
 
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cost?

I'm not sure if you posted it but what was the total cost on all this upgrade?great post BTW,thanks for sharing all the info.

John:D
 
I can't remember the exact cost, but it was around $450-$500 for all the parts, including the new MC ... You could prolly do it for half that if you didn't buy Toyota stuff, and reused the old rotors.

If I were doing it again, as I posted above, I'd just buy Aisin aftermarket or top-shelf American parts, fully loaded calipers.
 
Is it ok to use the Felpro paper gaskets (the ones you fab your own with a sheet) behind the AL spacer and behind the dust cover (so on both sides of the AL spacer)?
 
Not sure if you're asking about the eliminator plate or the wheel spacer, but since you said 'dust plate' I'm gonna guess you're asking about wheel spacer...

I read somewhere that the metal-to-metal contact acts as additional resistance to radial torque, meaning so you don't break wheel studs under high-torque situations. HellifIknow if that's true or not, but sounds reasonable so I did not use any gasket or anti-seize deliberately. If you drive mildly, I'd say go for it, but if you drive like your sig line, it's up to you ....
 
since this thread came alive again, I will ask: Did you ever get a length for those brake hoses? Can't seem to find that eliminator kits from MarksOffroad any more

dougbert
 
Any source on those brake lines in that kit?

$OR has a kit with lines, and the eliminator package for a wonderful "value" of $85 @ member discount rate + $20 shipping.

Another source would be great

dougbert
 
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I only know of Mark's kit. It's not on the website, you have to call him. AFAIK, he has those lines made for him to his spex, and sells to SOR...

818-953-9230, but he also has a $75 min order, now ...:(
 
okay that helps.

yeah, his website has ONLY a pic of a FJ-45 parked on a rock, no contact info or anything

I went to http://www.marksoffroad.net/

dougbert
 
Just click on that image and the wonders of the world will open to you .... ;)

I think his daughter has been maintaining his website, so you get what you pay for :p
 
lol - I leave sleeping pics alone, don't ya know........thanks

and $69.99 for the brake lines and $19 for the backing plate, so it is inline with $OR price then. And its a $80 min now. Don't you love the fallen value of the American dollar...............

great info, thx

dougbert
 
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You don't need a kit to eliminate the backing plate. Simply cut the backing plate away from the center bolt pattern and you've got your "spacer". Use the NAPA brake line that's been posted a bunch before to go from your axle to the caliper and you're good to go.
 
good to know, will go thread diving in the nude to find those NAPAs


UPDATE: Your post at https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fr...rd-line-union-workaround.805196/#post-9189197

"The best solution is to use a NAPA 38881 brake line to go from the caliper to the housing hard line. Other than that you're just "slightly bending" the hard line out of the way, which will make it fail eventually from work hardening."

now to dry off and get dressed.

Price as of today is $18.38 each, Left and Right

great source, thanks GLTHFJ60

dougbert
 
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Well, I said it earlier in the thread, so I repeat: Those backing plate eliminators are $20. Yes, TWENTY DOLLARS. If for whatever reason you want to return to the stock setup, and some have, try finding a good pair of backing plates for $20, let alone $50, 60. Check out the price on SOR.

If you're sure you'll never reuse, you could sell them for the cost of the whole kit, brake lines included ... KnOw WhAt I'm SaYiN?

Good luck!
 
Well, I said it earlier in the thread, so I repeat: Those backing plate eliminators are $20. Yes, TWENTY DOLLARS. If for whatever reason you want to return to the stock setup, and some have, try finding a good pair of backing plates for $20, let alone $50, 60. Check out the price on SOR.

If you're sure you'll never reuse, you could sell them for the cost of the whole kit, brake lines included ... KnOw WhAt I'm SaYiN?

Good luck!

yeah, good path.

But from marlin, $20 plus $17 in shipping - need something else from them to make shipping worthwhile.
SOR shipping is wild as well - 1 lb box is $20 these days.

dougbert
 
Anyone have a better method to mount the ss brake line to the axle bracket? The line that came from SOR has the end fitting body ~1-2 mm too long so the mounting notch on the brake line end doesn't match up with the bracket.

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Nevermind, was able to bend the hard lines a little to accommodate.
 
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