4Runner Calipers, T100 MC, Rotors and Backing Plate Eliminator install

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Spike Strip

Goblin Mode Activated
Nov 22, 2005
Had a bad rt. caliper so decided to take the plunge and install 4Runner calipers, new rotors, and the backing plate eliminators I got from Mark Algazy of marksoffroad.net .

Purchased Reman Toyota Calipers for '95 4Runner V6 - Part # 47750-35090-84, and 47730-35090-84 (Rh, Lh)

New caliper bolts & washers, spring clips, disc pads and shims.

Mountain Rotors - Made in Japan - and to the best of my knowledge are OEM. (Just say no to Chinese Rotors). Purchased online from partsgeek.com
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Old studs being pressed out.

Seperating hub and rotor.

New studs being pressed in.
Hubs and new rotors completed.

I chased the caliper threads 'cuz they looked a little buggered.

Backing plate eliminator installed.
Hubs and Rotors installed w/ new 4runner caliper.

You need a longer brake line. These SS lines came with the kit.
Same caliper for both sides?
At this point I ran into some trouble:

I had intended to keep the stock Master Cylinder as many posts had stated that it worked fine with the new caliper. I bled and bled and bled but couldn't seem to get the air out.

After two days of bleeding brakes (and trying the neighbor-who-helped-me patience), I finally got the pedel to at least kind of have some firmness.

But I like a firm pedal, and after reading various websites I decided to upgrade to a 1" Master Cylinder.
Disks in the rear?

BTW, if the bleed valve on the caliper is not at the top of the caliper, it will never let all the air out..
Same caliper for both sides?

Corrected above - sorry :doh: -- hurrying to try and make it to the Trail crew lunch!
Still have drums in the rear.

Install of T100 MC from a '93 T100 1/2 ton (Aisin/Advics BMT051). The FJ80 MC offered on various websites have the same body as the T100 MC only difference is the fluid level sensor is on the cap for the T100 - moulded into the side of the reservoir for the FJ80.

If you get the one for the T100, it makes it much easier to keep the fluid level sensor, by just splicing on the connector from the stock MC.

Position of stock lines. Have to bend them a little to fit.

Pedal is now firm and stops on quarter, if not a dime -

Difference is really noticable. I can lock up the wheels now (33's), with very little effort.
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Interesting pad anti-rattle hardware. Never seen any like that before.
Dont be late :flipoff2:
You suck for not calling me to help out :D

I didn't want to get another wrench-smack in the forehead :D


I started to grind the calipers, as they made contact with the rims I have, but then I used a 1/4 spacer and the wheels fit fine.

Just a few more pix:

  • Part #'s for rotors, if somebody needs them.
  • Size of 4Runner pistons
  • Finished product w/ 1/4 spacer.

I'm going to be doing the same thing, already got all the parts minus the calipers. Also running the same mountain rotors as well.

Where did you get the calipers? Napa?

Also where did you go to get the wheel studs pressed in and out of the hubs. Last time I had to use a sledgehammer on them and i didn't feel too confident with smashing the hub and stud with a sledge.
Excellent Work and Write-Up Spike Strip!
Calipers are Toyota, remanufactured, from the dealer. They're nice, but you can probably get the pro grade Raybestos or Bendix, loaded, for a much better price. I just decided to go Toyota 'cuz I'm nuts.

Also, marlincrawler.com has the loaded caliper for $119. V6 IFS Front Brake Caliper | Marlin Crawler, Inc.

I have a press and popped 'em in and out myself.

As for caliper, just make sure you get the ones that have this casting:
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Thanks Kline!
If you go with a new 1" MC this is the style you want, with the lead for the Level Sensor on the cap. This one is for a '93 T100 1/2 Ton, Aisin part # BMT-051 (replacing Toyota Part # 47201-3D020)

Some applications have the connector moulded into the side of the reservoir, which means you'll have to get a connector to match and splice into your loom.

Don't forget to bench bleed before hooking it up!
care to express any wisdom on the bench bleeding process, I have never done it before.

Looks like a factory install...

Where did you get those SS brake lines that go to your calipers?
care to express any wisdom on the bench bleeding process, I have never done it before.
Looks like a factory install...
Where did you get those SS brake lines that go to your calipers?

Bought the SS lines and backing plate eliminator from Mark A. at marksoffroad.net

There's a few threads on Bench Bleeding on the forum, but it just involves filling the MC with fluid and using some brake fittings (I cut an old brake line) run plastic tubes into the reservoir and depress the piston until the air (no more bubbles) is gone. Sorry, no pix of that 'cuz my hands were full of brake fluid!

Here's other solutions: https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/237817-bench-bleeding-brake-master-cylinder.html
That rig is screaming for some, well... DIRT! Too clean! Anyway, I did some searching today and found that the T-100 uses the same front caliper as the 4-runners, the same master cylinder as the 4-runner and non-ABS FJ80. I sure hope the reference material was correct because I just pulled both calipers and the MC from one this afternoon. This should help a great deal with my excessive pedal travel caused by the GM calipers on the rear axle. If the problem persists, I'll put the original calipers on the rear axle with the T-100 calipers on the front.

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