2fpower
SILVER Star
How did you do the wiring to the roof? detachable?
Builds 4bt cummins 96 FZJ (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter cjmoon
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- #362
I hope not to have to and will cross the bridge when I get there. i just put cable glands and some extra wire I could cut and re-splice inside if i had to remove it at some point. being low profile i'm hoping it can stay on all the time.
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- #363
first trans issue (unrelated to Cummins) shift solenoid B is dropping out once the trans temp gets warm. started as an intermittent problem but quickly got worst over hte last 3 weeks. cold everything is good but Ohms read high at 36 Ohms with 20-30 Ohms normal reading. once the trans gets to temp above about 130F it goes to an open loop off the 200 Ohms scale I was using to measure. 20 years and 242k has taken it's toll.
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- #365
Did get my sliders finished up enough to get them installed. I have had the material for almost 2 years and sliders welded up for over 2 months. Still need to cut out aluminum plate to fill in the gaps to make it more of a step for my little one not to put a leg or arm through.
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- Thread starter
- #366
Transmission is fixed... it's always the last place you look. loose connector. why it always worked every time it was cold until the trans temp was about 130F? I have no idea. culprit was the mid harness connector that is high on the bell housing offset to the driver side. I'll have to watch it as i haven't touched it for 6-7k miles and didn't seem broken. it snapped closed as expected. i did find the freeze plug that came out on my last year. i never looked for it as it came out doing 75 down the highway. it's been sitting on top of the transmission up against the wiring harness about 15 inches from the connector that was loose. not sure if it worked it's way past the connector snapping it open or not.
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- #367
Last tank of diesel I got the worst mpg yet. 15 mpg all city driving. It's slowly been getting worst over the last 6 months. The heat 95-100 highs and ac pumping are not helping. But the slow to spool increased smoke. I put a rebuild set of injectors in we'll see where I'm at after this tank. Power seems a lot better quicker spool way better power through the mid section. Pushing 40 psi through the waistgate catching up and regulating down to about 33psi
Nice job man.
Rack looks sweet.
How hard was the front Differential gears install? I blew mine and I'm contemplating doing it myself.
Take care and glad to hear it's running good and mileage is great.
Rack looks sweet.
How hard was the front Differential gears install? I blew mine and I'm contemplating doing it myself.
Take care and glad to hear it's running good and mileage is great.
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- #369
I have some stock front gears I took out of mine. Ran patterns before removal.
These toyota gears are the easiest I've done. Pattern talked to you if you have a good pattern you have a good set up on gears backlash is measurable and feal right same with bearing preload. I never measure bearing load. It's like setting up a front hub. It's about feel. Snug but not tight, smooth rotation.
With new injectors and similer driving I'm back up to 16.5 with city driving in the heat.
Ordered the m&h dynamic timing kit also well see how that affects the set up.
Finally read your whole thread, great work on sorting things out. I've been having more haze at idle again and am wondering if my current injectors (SAC 5x12) have loosened up and are not popping where they used to. I'm pretty sure I'll be going back to the VCO style nozzle to clean up the idle haze I don't want. Whenever I think I'm satisfied with my power level this little devil on my shoulder keeps wondering what if I give it just a little more fuel. Sounds like that little guy is visiting your shoulder too. At least I'm not the only one with the addiction.
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- #372
Thank You, I've been planning twins a lot based on your experience and detailed write-ups. i can remembering finding your thread and not getting any sleep for a few nights trying to get through the years of information and pics.
it's a battle some days i say clean and efficient others more fuel. my next set of injectors will likely be a set of VCO 5x11-12 size. i can hit close to 40psi with high egt's with this single so i don't need that much more fuel to feed twins in the sub 40psi range with very cool clean running. i figure any more and I need to pull the motor for a refresh. mine's a 1987 with no history of rebuild or number of miles/hours. it's a ticking time bomb really assuming my 9mm head is cracked like all but running strong. these are amazing engines.
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- #373
Have about 15k on the swap and my front end rebuild. I didnt do front bearings at that point but lately I've been getting an odd vibration/shutter on right hand turns leading me to believe the left front has an issue.
baught bearings so I'll change them but the old don't seam bad. my power stop breaks seem to be doing well about half the pads left even wear ceramic pads. a little bit of heat in the rotors but only a slight vibration under light peddle. I attribute that to not doing a proper break-in. I did the motor swap at yhe same time and didon't feel comfortable with the agressive/ long process. I think they would feel like new with following instructions
baught bearings so I'll change them but the old don't seam bad. my power stop breaks seem to be doing well about half the pads left even wear ceramic pads. a little bit of heat in the rotors but only a slight vibration under light peddle. I attribute that to not doing a proper break-in. I did the motor swap at yhe same time and didon't feel comfortable with the agressive/ long process. I think they would feel like new with following instructions
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- #374
We'll I believe I forgot to knock on wood after this comment. I lost compression on 1 and 2 cylinders. no over heat just loosing between the 2 based on leak down. need to get the head off and evaluate. I'm prabably due for a new 7mm head, ARP studs, heavier springs. of course that's all dependent on what the cylinder walls look like. this will be a slow rebuild over the next month or more I would guess.
Bummer
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- #376
Ya I've been asking for it pushing more and more boost. the head work has always been on my list to do to take the next step with twin turbos and 40+ boost. I've been pushing 32ish for the last year occasionally seeing 35+ under the right conditions even with the waist gate starting to open. that's all on an engine that was out of decommissioned bread truck who knows how miles where on it and how old.
Oh well then it sounds like the motor owes you noting. Lol
35psi of boost isn't all that much. I see 35psi of boost with a single turbo all the time. It's possible that the engine was just wore out though, and that said, I did put a head gasket in my engine when it was on the engine stand.
I can hit 35psi real easy in 4th and 5th if I put the peddle to the floor. I like to keep it under 15psi.
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- #380
Oh I'd have to guess it's worn pretty well like i said i have no history. I've run the waist gate closed on ocation as well with 40+ with cool operation 35 is nothing. i'VE never had the head off or retorqued or checked head bolt torque. I'm kind of a leave well enough alone type. knowing if I did anything it would be studs and the whole bit with a new head to get away from the 9mm design. I also run it pretty hard 25-30 is every stop light and on ramp
