Builds 4bt cummins 96 FZJ

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Bummer! Any chance the convert got jammed up? Did the convert spin free in the bell before bolting it to the flex plate?

P.s. Engine looks good in there! Thank you so much for taking your time and painting the engine properly bot just spray bombing the entire engine hoses and all.
 
Well during my initial fit I measured my depths. And didn't have the converter seated all the way.

I didn't measure this time, the second installation because it felt right after not having the full engagement the first time I thought I could fell the difference. I can even feel that there is a 1/8 gap between the the flex plate and converter. I would have thought that would have been closed off if the converter wasn't seated.

Would the pilot push it that far in? Figure I would have done damage if that spacing is still correct.

I have the stock converter still. 4.10 gears and 35" tires will have a higher rpm than I am really after. If I go bigger tire or lower gear I will consider a lower stall.

I'll get this figured out it just takes time.

image-491089355.webp
 
Were the pump drive teeth on the converter seated into the corresponding notches in the pump? Is there any way to check if the converter spins by hand? That would tell you fast if its the cause of the binding. The other thing worth checking is if the flywheel starter ring is making contact with the bell. I remember reading a thread where someone else had the exact issue with there H55F 4BD adapter no issues till it was bolted together then would not turn at all. Believe it was a Allnares adapter in that case.

My bet is on the later.
 
Jess,

The ring gear cannot touch the bellhousing. There is a lot of clearance there.

The converter should pull all the way up to the flexplate.

The converter pilot bore is made with a very small clearance, the same Toyota used. If there is a burr or damage on the converter pilot it could be jammed up, not able to slide fully together. The toyota converter pilots can get bent. I don't know if that's the issue, but it could be.

If the starter is removed, can you reach past the flywheel and try to rotate the converter? It should spin free, independent of the flywheel if no bolts are installed.

If it doesn't spin and it's not seating against the flexplate it sounds like the converter pilot isn't sliding into the bore in the flywheel.

Give me a call tomorrow to discuss if you get a chance.

Thanks.
 
I'll do some trouble shooting tonight when I get home from work. The converter was lined up with the mounting holes so I didn't need to try and move it.

My biggest problem is I got one bolt in and was going to rotate to put the others in. I got about 5 deg of rotation and now need to rotate it back. To get that bolt out.

Yes the converter spun before. I believe I had it fully seated but didn't measure the depth to verify.
 
well i took the engine back out and i broke the the input bushing deal. really didn't think I forced everything together. but it definitely didn't slip into place like my initial test fit.

time for a HD converter i guess.

This is really the first auto I've messed with. i have always been a manual user in the past. these auto's are way more delicate than i would have thought.

need to research to see if i could have messed up anything in the pump or front front of the transmission. and research HD torque converters.
 
Bummer man!! Was worried something happened like that. Hope its a fairly straightforward fix.

There is the possibility that the pump got damaged too it just depends how much force was put on it.
 
well maybe this isn't as bad as i thought

front pilot can be welded back on and the stall can be lowered 400-500 RPM with some internal adjustment. for $250-300 all said and done w/shipping and everything. and will probably be much happier out of the box vs the stock stall on the stock converter. really only shooting for about 1500 RPM stall. several people i have talked to said that the aftermarket doesn't reach the toyota and the stock stuff will not go much lower.

a new converters is $160-200 (Not Toyota original) for reference

still trying to decide what i need to do to evaluate the input of the transmission. the converter was seated all the way in when i disassembled. so the pump should be fine. i had the input shaft out when changing the seals and i can't think i could have put enough load on it i would assume the converter would smash first. The converter will all get inspected with the rebuild.

most reports of this sort of thing that i could find where all pump related and damage could occur there pretty easy.
 
Well haven't done much lately to the cruiser. Waiting for parts to come in. I got my converter rebuilt by DACCO in TN. A little old school but they took care of me. Shipping there back and the work. Was about 210. Lowered the stall a few 100. Roughly 1800 down to 1500. Was the goal. Shouldn't grab at idle to bad like some reports with 1200 stalls.

Ordered a bunch of parts from rock auto mainly accessories for the cruiser and my truck. But it must have gotten stollen from my front porch. They must have been really disappointed to open that box and not find a single electronic device.

Also started draining the tank. I didn't realize the middle seats had to be removed. Just a note they do. Jonesy has a good video on that part I remember the comment saying the interior was gutted and it made it easy.

Got the valve body seals delivered from Toyota so I can get my Transgo shift kit installed too. Hope to have the engine back in soon.
 
Been following your write man. Looking good! Did u ever decide what to do with the tranny controller?
 
I believe I'm am going with the compushift kit from Dustin when he gets the details worked out he is close to having it finalized he has some nice linkage and boost reference to increase rail pressure based on throttle position or boost reference which ever is greater
 
well another 2 weeks with no progress due to not having a flex plate to bolt it all back together.

had a burn several days of use it or loose it vacation at the end of last year with out progress on the cruiser that I had been saving up to use on the cruiser conversion. I guess some peoples time is more valuable than others....
 
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That stinks. At least you did not lose the vacation days -- hope you found something else to do -- maybe even make the wife happy. I always like to keep a few of those points around for future use.
 
I have received the flex plate so I should start making progress soon. Have started some home projects too so I will have to split my free time.
 
The engine back in and the torque converter is bolted up. I'm back where I was in mid November.

It took me 2 hours to get the 6 torque converter bolts in is that normal. FSM says to use the one shouldered bolt first but that didn't get me any where. I had to install them all about 2 turns so the converter was loose and pushed away from the flex plate other wise I would get 3-4 in and no go on the last couple.

Anyone else have that kind of issue?

Also the access hole is very close to the block. The socket and extension is right against the block so I had to use a wobble after that and hold it tight to the block to get it all aligned

image-3832307603.webp


image-1234391021.webp
 
cjmoon said:
The engine back in and the torque converter is bolted up. I'm back where I was in mid November.

It took me 2 hours to get the 6 torque converter bolts in is that normal. FSM says to use the one shouldered bolt first but that didn't get me any where. I had to install them all about 2 turns so the converter was loose and pushed away from the flex plate other wise I would get 3-4 in and no go on the last couple.

Anyone else have that kind of issue?

Also the access hole is very close to the block. The socket and extension is right against the block so I had to use a wobble after that and hold it tight to the block to get it all aligned
Click to expand...

They are a bugger to get in! The first two times it took me a solid 2 plus hours. It is fairly difficult to put in a bolt on an angle with a wobble on a extension. You just gotta be patient, and careful, first time I did it I buggered up a couple threads. On my last go around, I put them all in loose, then went back around a second time to torque. It can be difficult to get that initial line up dialed in, I found that if I shined a light up through the bellhousing inspection window, I could see the holes and line them up fairly well before trying to put bolts in.
 
Ya I buggered up 2 as well. I was able to get new ones from the dealer. So that was very nice.
 
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