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I finally made it home last night, my girlfriend and I spent a few nights in Cedar City UT looking around and talking to the university there--turns out we're moving there!!! I tried to find some shop space to rent but didn't find anything except a pimped out storage unit. Could fit 3, maybe 4 vehicles tight with the exception there is only one garage door and there's two columns (that I can't tell if they're important or not since they're kind of janky) in the middle. I ended up leaving the 80 there along with everything else I had on the trailer and in the bed of the truck. I have some business trips in March, so after March the plan is to pack up our camper and move there and then look for a house and move my little business. Pretty stoked! Awesome location obviously with tons of wheeling and camping spots within an hour drive. Besides just answering questions and posting more pictures as they come up, obviously no wrenching will occur until we move to Cedar City and I reunite with the 80. In the mean time I might work on my 40 series or my long parked 4Runner...
Continuing the KOH story...
I forgot to mention, at tech they weighed the truck and it weighed in at 5114lbs and that was for all practical purposes completely dry. There was like 5 gallons of fuel in the cell, literally no parts or tools or even a storage box on the truck and no people in it. So figure another 150lbs of fuel, ~320lbs of people, and then 100lbs of tools and then also jacks, spare driveshaft we grabbed, and some other odds and ends and the truck loaded is easily well over 5500lbs in race configuration. Heavier than I expected, though I've seen plenty of decked out rigs claim they are near or over 6000lbs, so being under 6000lbs and having a full cage and beadlocks and full size spare and 32gal of gas, etc. I'd say really isn't too shabby. Not light by any stretch, but for an 80 fits the bill. Also interestingly, the truck is rear weight biased. In the front I'm now running 200/200 spring rate and the rear I want to say is 250/300 (might be a bit less than that) and around 1" of preload give or take everywhere. When I built the rear tire carrier and loaded it up it REALLY moved the CG back. I'm not complaining though, not like it's massively rear biased, so is actually around where you would want it to help keep the nose up at speed.
Sunday we worked on getting the truck to pass tech. I took 25ft of fuel line and did a full loop of the fuel cell at roof level and then down and to the fuel cut offs, etc. We also took the truck over to Esab and used their welded and welded up all the tube end caps which was awesome. The last few items were a couple minute fixes at camp, which while we were at it I went in and tried to clean up a lot of the wiring under the dash which I hadn't had time to tuck up before I left originally.
Also for the record, which I think I said it, this tire carrier took about 6 hours, maybe 8ish, to do. Started it one night and finished it the following day. It's nothing pretty, and it's honestly one of the crappier pieces of the whole truck which bums me out--there's a lot of poor tube fitment where I just went in and filled it in with weld. I'm not sure if I will build a new one and scrap this one, or try to pretty it up, but I'll be frank in saying it's a pile. It's a pile that can hold the whole weight of the truck on it and you can lift it up from a chain hoist by, but what I wanted my standard of quality to be for the truck it is well below. Again, time crunch issues though. What I will say though is I ended up liking the layout more than I thought I would. The spare is an absolute bitch to get in and out of the hoop because there's about 1" of total clearance so any angling jacks it up plus you have to drop it down so it engages 3 studs that the wheel bolts to the carrier, so trying to keep everything lined up and then line it up with the studs is a pain at best. But I like the concept, the folding down is a lot better than most tire carriers I've seen, specifically on race vehicles. I'm a small and weak dude, and lifting what is probably a 150lb tire/wheel setup 4ft into the air onto a normal side swing out or up onto the "bed" of the truck would be impossible for me and probably most people. While this isn't perfect, only having to throw the tire up about 3 ft and onto a table like surface that you can massage around is really nice actually. And when the tire is mounted it turns into a nice table top and you can stand on the tire with it folded down and it's no issue. So for how simple it is I like it. It also has those two arms which butt up tight against the cage so any force that hits the carrier is dumped into the primary cage structure. Unless a weld fails or the 2" tube deflects like 8" there isn't any real chance of the radiator being hit. I then have some little tabs on the arms and on the cage and two hitch pin type things slide in so it's super quick to drop and put back up.
Moving on, we got the tech stuff quickly fixed and ran over to tech at like 4:45pm and the dude looked the truck over and got us banded!!! It was pretty funny too since we needed "survival supplies" even though we didn't have anywhere to put anything since the truck wasn't loaded down, so right before heading over I grabbed some Little Debby brownies and a water bottle and threw them in the middle and that ended up counting! The tech inspector thought it was awesome that our survival supplies was a box of brownies--that and luckily he didn't notice that our front driveshaft wasn't installed. That was huge and a major victory and something I had been stressing about for a long time. With the truck banded, that meant we had prerunning, swapping the birfield in, and tuning and that was really in before the race on Thursday.
The whole shock tuning/prerunning thing is kind of a mental cluster. We ran the truck a lot and got a bunch of footage from my codrivers RZR of the 80 which we then took to ADS to have them suggest changes. With my timeline out of wack, on like Friday we had gone to ADS and they fit us into their schedule and changed our springs out (from 175/150 all around to the 200/200 front and 250/300 rear I mentioned) since once the tire carrier was added and fueled up the truck was REALLY ass sagged and rode on the bumps constantly. I decided to bring the ride height up to around 8" of up travel where as I originally was figuring like 6" up. More up travel in the whoops made a REALLY big difference. I thought 6" up would be fine, but for going fast it's a way different setup than crawling. The body roll was/is HORRIBLE too. I might of talked about this awhile ago, but the body falls over even on little corners...actually it's almost only on corners when you go slow. I think the stock rear suspension geometry is where I'm having issues, plus it weighs a lot and low spring rate and no sway bars. I tried to get a sway bar from TK1 Racing in time but they were out of stock. I also realized the body roll is a lot less with an axle missing, which I think is since it's dual full time locked so when you corner the inside tires are pushing against each other and the suspension compresses there and pushes the body over. At speed the body roll is there but it's nowhere near as bad as going slow and for anyone who saw it in action, we got looks EVERYWHERE and comments from everyone since it looked like it was gonna roll over driving at 3mph through town. That is super high on the agenda of things to fix though should be pretty easy. Anyways, we tried playing with the crossovers to take the truck out of dual rate faster but that just ended up in it feeling way too stiff so I moved the crossovers out and decided to just live with how much it rolls. Like I said, slow speed is the issue, at speed it really doesn't roll a ton, the body moves but it's not as crazy as the driving through town body roll is.
There were some good sections at the base of chocolate thunder and north of hammertown that we did most of the tuning at. Most of the whoops in those sections were probably 12-24" tall. A lot of people crack me up (like my codriver) since they hardcore exaggerate whoop size. Maybe they're measured differently than I would, but I would call it the trough to the peak, and at least at Chocolate Thunder which was wicked smooth, in the videos we are skipping across the top of the whoops, not by a lot but there's an inch or two under the tire at full droop in the whoops and we have 14" of travel so I would say those are around 14-16" tall whoops. But then there's people who are like "yea the section with the 4-5ft deep whoops is gnarly!" Like yea dude.... I'm sure we were in whoops that the whole height of the tire could fall into. I don't think we ever even hit any 3ft deep whoops, I would say max 24" in some of the super super deep s***. Here's a little video my buddy at SRQ Fabrications took, nothing big at all, just some small bumps at like 50ish mph:
The bumps originally were at 100psi since they were pretty clanky originally and that helped, afterwards we bumped them to 125psi. Otherwise just lots of bypass adjusting. Make a run, adjust some tubes, make a run, adjust, run, adjust, run, adjust, etc. By the end the thing was pretty dialed, even ADS said they didn't think it could get much better. On the section near Chocolate Thunder I was consistently in the high 50s according to GPS.
Area I would guess 14-16"(?) whoops:
Also as you may notice, Matt from SRQ Fabrications who has helped me a ton on the truck, decided that our little single LED lights we had near the winch weren't cutting it so bought a pair of Baja Designs OnX 10" bars (I think all of that was right) and threw them on. Those bad boys put out some serious fxxxing light for being just two 10" bars, you could have three 50" cheapo lights and I would take these any day over those--so shout out to SRQ Fabrications for giving the 80 enough light to see clearly a foot field away!
Truck was running really nice, I could go as fast as I wanted over essentially anything. It was weird actually and cool at the same time since it's so capable. I would come down whoop sections and there might be a huge bump or dip or whatever and I would have to tell myself to just not worry about it and the 80 would just float over everything. I've never been in anything that had even half the capability of this truck. My buddies RZR obviously can do a lot, arguably more, but I've never driven it or any other side by side so doesn't really count much and even then, the 80 is immensely smoother than my buddies RZR. It's really cool to drive something that can handle going faster than I mentally can. Literally the only real limit is the stock engine just can't push it much past 60mph.
Monday my girlfriend showed up with the parts needed to run the axles from Cruiser Outfitters, so we pull the passenger side apart, new (used) parts in, put a metric ass load of grease in since all the seals are blown everywhere and then rtv the s*** out of the knuckle gaskets, button it up and I go to start it and it just cranks. Obviously a fuel system issue--what more can you expect from this truck? The only thing that goes wrong is the fuel system. We were planning to go run the truck since it had 4WD again and wanted to see if any shock changes were needed with the front end pulling, so in a big rush we go through everything. As usual I end up shoulder deep in the stupid fuel cell. Well long story short the fuel pump s*** itself. With nothing attached to the outlet the pump would spin (or the motor would) and nothing would even come out. I don't know if it was clogged, or the turbine blew apart, or the motor shaft was slipping, but it wasn't flowing anything at all. Luckily I had bought a spare pump a month ago and had that, never ran it though and it was a different pump, so fingers crossed we put that in and then that didn't work. Finally we figured out that the new pump needed to be primed and wouldn't seem to pull enough of a vacuum like the old pump. So after a lot of trouble shooting, new pump in and she fired right up! So that was kind of a heart stopper, we looked for a (new) backup pump around town but no one had any cheap ones so we just ended up running that the whole time and with no issue! It actually seemed to help the engine too, which was doing that high rpm starvation before (it wasn't the rev limiter after all) and now I can just floor it and hold 4000rpm and she's happy. Still acts weird sometimes, like if the truck downshifts and revs to 4k then it'll starve, but if it slowly revs up to that point then it's fine...
With that fixed go out and run the truck more and everything seems great!
Go to bed, it's Wednesday morning now, no plans to even run the truck really since we have tech/contingency (they just look at belts and safety gear, the other tech was a full inspection since it's a new truck and wasn't banded) later in the day and the race is the following day. Maybe drive around a little but don't want to risk breaking anything. So I'm walking around it and see it:
Blown axle seal, that sucks but big deal right? Just kidding, the whole fxxxing axle shaft is missing. Now some of you may remember I had a similar ish thing happen in Moab where I blew the passenger side studs and the shear pins fell out, shaft almost fell out, well this is like that but on steroids for the driver's side. We looked around and couldn't even find the shaft anywhere, no one knew where it had fallen out or when. The studs AND shear pins had all sheared. The theory with the passenger side was the studs loosened up so the shaft backed out a bit and then the studs sheared and the pins bent over--well this time everything including the pins were sheared on the hub. Now one thing I will admit is that I had torque checked all the hub studs every day, and one stud on that one axle had sheared just from checking the torque on it a few days prior. I find it hard to believe that Toyota has such small design margins that it wouldn't run fine on 5 studs and 2 pins, but obviously I was pushing the stock gear past what it was capable of regardless.
So there's two issues, we need to extract the studs in the hub as well as the shear pins (or redrill holes for them, thankfully from Kurt I had spares when the other side blew, as well as spare studs) which is either a easy or complete pain in the ass job and then we need a new shaft. Well my girlfriend's dad had brought new shafts for the rear that Jim's Yota Yard had donated in the event we needed one! Oh just kidding, they're semi float shafts...
I have no solutions at all at this point, I make a post on instagram that I lost an axle and have a jacked hub assembly and then give Kurt a call. Kurt tells me to talk to Rock Solid Offroad who happens to only be an hour and a half away, I call him up and we're in luck! He has a shaft we can use and says he'll lend his whole shop and talents to fix the hub since there is about a 1% chance with the tools we had we would be able to fix the hub. Course then there is logistics issues, we have tech in like 45 minutes and then have a driver's meeting at 6. So we stuff a bunch of paper towels in the hub so it's not obviously s***ting itself since you're not supposed to be leaking to be race legal, and drive through tech and contingency in 3WD which I'm now pretty prepared might be how we actually start the race.
Pass tech, get the emergency beacon and sticker and we're now fully legal to race!
Get back from that, and a guy who I know (but never met) from my 4Runner days had seen my instagram post, couldn't get in contact with me but then messaged my buddy from SRQ Fab since he had service, and it turns out he has a full 80 series axle set and is willing to pull it apart and bring us a full hub and axle assembly! He hadn't left his house yet, but he was in Phoenix so like a 5 hour drive. That then becomes our main option with RSO being the back up. Park the truck, pull the hub assembly off so we're ready for later that night--oh what's this small side issue?
The panhard/track bar is JACKED. No idea how/when/where/why this happened, but we are less than 24 hours from racing and have 3 wheels on the truck, a fxxxed up hub, missing an axle shaft, and a panhard bar that could be used as a boomerang. My theory is that the rear end has so much suspension travel that at full droop the panhard gets really steep, and when the suspension is quickly bumped (like in whoops) the panhard wasn't stiff enough to shift the body/axle to the side as it was swung upward. Either that or I somehow hit the rear end insanely hard, which I'm pretty sure I never did and pretty sure the truck would roll if I hit the rear axle that hard... any theories are welcome!
But not to worry, Ruff Stuff is here with a s*** load of steel!
Boom, 1.75" OD 0.25" wall panhard! Get it back in and time for the driver's meeting. Go to that, yada yada, we have no idea what's happening and my codriver is s***ting himself. Got two free pizzas, that was nice. Come back to the truck, 4Runner bro brought all the parts so we throw on the new hub and shaft and we are set! Take her for a little drive and everything seems to be working great! It's dark now, need to be lining up to race at 6:30am and on the line at the latest and suited by 7:30am and first car leaves at 8am. The truck is not loaded down AT ALL, but it is running! So we head to bed early to try and get some sleep, with the plan to wake up around 5am to load the truck and head over to the lineup at 6:30am.
Continuing the KOH story...
I forgot to mention, at tech they weighed the truck and it weighed in at 5114lbs and that was for all practical purposes completely dry. There was like 5 gallons of fuel in the cell, literally no parts or tools or even a storage box on the truck and no people in it. So figure another 150lbs of fuel, ~320lbs of people, and then 100lbs of tools and then also jacks, spare driveshaft we grabbed, and some other odds and ends and the truck loaded is easily well over 5500lbs in race configuration. Heavier than I expected, though I've seen plenty of decked out rigs claim they are near or over 6000lbs, so being under 6000lbs and having a full cage and beadlocks and full size spare and 32gal of gas, etc. I'd say really isn't too shabby. Not light by any stretch, but for an 80 fits the bill. Also interestingly, the truck is rear weight biased. In the front I'm now running 200/200 spring rate and the rear I want to say is 250/300 (might be a bit less than that) and around 1" of preload give or take everywhere. When I built the rear tire carrier and loaded it up it REALLY moved the CG back. I'm not complaining though, not like it's massively rear biased, so is actually around where you would want it to help keep the nose up at speed.
Sunday we worked on getting the truck to pass tech. I took 25ft of fuel line and did a full loop of the fuel cell at roof level and then down and to the fuel cut offs, etc. We also took the truck over to Esab and used their welded and welded up all the tube end caps which was awesome. The last few items were a couple minute fixes at camp, which while we were at it I went in and tried to clean up a lot of the wiring under the dash which I hadn't had time to tuck up before I left originally.
Also for the record, which I think I said it, this tire carrier took about 6 hours, maybe 8ish, to do. Started it one night and finished it the following day. It's nothing pretty, and it's honestly one of the crappier pieces of the whole truck which bums me out--there's a lot of poor tube fitment where I just went in and filled it in with weld. I'm not sure if I will build a new one and scrap this one, or try to pretty it up, but I'll be frank in saying it's a pile. It's a pile that can hold the whole weight of the truck on it and you can lift it up from a chain hoist by, but what I wanted my standard of quality to be for the truck it is well below. Again, time crunch issues though. What I will say though is I ended up liking the layout more than I thought I would. The spare is an absolute bitch to get in and out of the hoop because there's about 1" of total clearance so any angling jacks it up plus you have to drop it down so it engages 3 studs that the wheel bolts to the carrier, so trying to keep everything lined up and then line it up with the studs is a pain at best. But I like the concept, the folding down is a lot better than most tire carriers I've seen, specifically on race vehicles. I'm a small and weak dude, and lifting what is probably a 150lb tire/wheel setup 4ft into the air onto a normal side swing out or up onto the "bed" of the truck would be impossible for me and probably most people. While this isn't perfect, only having to throw the tire up about 3 ft and onto a table like surface that you can massage around is really nice actually. And when the tire is mounted it turns into a nice table top and you can stand on the tire with it folded down and it's no issue. So for how simple it is I like it. It also has those two arms which butt up tight against the cage so any force that hits the carrier is dumped into the primary cage structure. Unless a weld fails or the 2" tube deflects like 8" there isn't any real chance of the radiator being hit. I then have some little tabs on the arms and on the cage and two hitch pin type things slide in so it's super quick to drop and put back up.
Moving on, we got the tech stuff quickly fixed and ran over to tech at like 4:45pm and the dude looked the truck over and got us banded!!! It was pretty funny too since we needed "survival supplies" even though we didn't have anywhere to put anything since the truck wasn't loaded down, so right before heading over I grabbed some Little Debby brownies and a water bottle and threw them in the middle and that ended up counting! The tech inspector thought it was awesome that our survival supplies was a box of brownies--that and luckily he didn't notice that our front driveshaft wasn't installed. That was huge and a major victory and something I had been stressing about for a long time. With the truck banded, that meant we had prerunning, swapping the birfield in, and tuning and that was really in before the race on Thursday.
The whole shock tuning/prerunning thing is kind of a mental cluster. We ran the truck a lot and got a bunch of footage from my codrivers RZR of the 80 which we then took to ADS to have them suggest changes. With my timeline out of wack, on like Friday we had gone to ADS and they fit us into their schedule and changed our springs out (from 175/150 all around to the 200/200 front and 250/300 rear I mentioned) since once the tire carrier was added and fueled up the truck was REALLY ass sagged and rode on the bumps constantly. I decided to bring the ride height up to around 8" of up travel where as I originally was figuring like 6" up. More up travel in the whoops made a REALLY big difference. I thought 6" up would be fine, but for going fast it's a way different setup than crawling. The body roll was/is HORRIBLE too. I might of talked about this awhile ago, but the body falls over even on little corners...actually it's almost only on corners when you go slow. I think the stock rear suspension geometry is where I'm having issues, plus it weighs a lot and low spring rate and no sway bars. I tried to get a sway bar from TK1 Racing in time but they were out of stock. I also realized the body roll is a lot less with an axle missing, which I think is since it's dual full time locked so when you corner the inside tires are pushing against each other and the suspension compresses there and pushes the body over. At speed the body roll is there but it's nowhere near as bad as going slow and for anyone who saw it in action, we got looks EVERYWHERE and comments from everyone since it looked like it was gonna roll over driving at 3mph through town. That is super high on the agenda of things to fix though should be pretty easy. Anyways, we tried playing with the crossovers to take the truck out of dual rate faster but that just ended up in it feeling way too stiff so I moved the crossovers out and decided to just live with how much it rolls. Like I said, slow speed is the issue, at speed it really doesn't roll a ton, the body moves but it's not as crazy as the driving through town body roll is.
There were some good sections at the base of chocolate thunder and north of hammertown that we did most of the tuning at. Most of the whoops in those sections were probably 12-24" tall. A lot of people crack me up (like my codriver) since they hardcore exaggerate whoop size. Maybe they're measured differently than I would, but I would call it the trough to the peak, and at least at Chocolate Thunder which was wicked smooth, in the videos we are skipping across the top of the whoops, not by a lot but there's an inch or two under the tire at full droop in the whoops and we have 14" of travel so I would say those are around 14-16" tall whoops. But then there's people who are like "yea the section with the 4-5ft deep whoops is gnarly!" Like yea dude.... I'm sure we were in whoops that the whole height of the tire could fall into. I don't think we ever even hit any 3ft deep whoops, I would say max 24" in some of the super super deep s***. Here's a little video my buddy at SRQ Fabrications took, nothing big at all, just some small bumps at like 50ish mph:
The bumps originally were at 100psi since they were pretty clanky originally and that helped, afterwards we bumped them to 125psi. Otherwise just lots of bypass adjusting. Make a run, adjust some tubes, make a run, adjust, run, adjust, run, adjust, etc. By the end the thing was pretty dialed, even ADS said they didn't think it could get much better. On the section near Chocolate Thunder I was consistently in the high 50s according to GPS.
Area I would guess 14-16"(?) whoops:
Also as you may notice, Matt from SRQ Fabrications who has helped me a ton on the truck, decided that our little single LED lights we had near the winch weren't cutting it so bought a pair of Baja Designs OnX 10" bars (I think all of that was right) and threw them on. Those bad boys put out some serious fxxxing light for being just two 10" bars, you could have three 50" cheapo lights and I would take these any day over those--so shout out to SRQ Fabrications for giving the 80 enough light to see clearly a foot field away!
Truck was running really nice, I could go as fast as I wanted over essentially anything. It was weird actually and cool at the same time since it's so capable. I would come down whoop sections and there might be a huge bump or dip or whatever and I would have to tell myself to just not worry about it and the 80 would just float over everything. I've never been in anything that had even half the capability of this truck. My buddies RZR obviously can do a lot, arguably more, but I've never driven it or any other side by side so doesn't really count much and even then, the 80 is immensely smoother than my buddies RZR. It's really cool to drive something that can handle going faster than I mentally can. Literally the only real limit is the stock engine just can't push it much past 60mph.
Monday my girlfriend showed up with the parts needed to run the axles from Cruiser Outfitters, so we pull the passenger side apart, new (used) parts in, put a metric ass load of grease in since all the seals are blown everywhere and then rtv the s*** out of the knuckle gaskets, button it up and I go to start it and it just cranks. Obviously a fuel system issue--what more can you expect from this truck? The only thing that goes wrong is the fuel system. We were planning to go run the truck since it had 4WD again and wanted to see if any shock changes were needed with the front end pulling, so in a big rush we go through everything. As usual I end up shoulder deep in the stupid fuel cell. Well long story short the fuel pump s*** itself. With nothing attached to the outlet the pump would spin (or the motor would) and nothing would even come out. I don't know if it was clogged, or the turbine blew apart, or the motor shaft was slipping, but it wasn't flowing anything at all. Luckily I had bought a spare pump a month ago and had that, never ran it though and it was a different pump, so fingers crossed we put that in and then that didn't work. Finally we figured out that the new pump needed to be primed and wouldn't seem to pull enough of a vacuum like the old pump. So after a lot of trouble shooting, new pump in and she fired right up! So that was kind of a heart stopper, we looked for a (new) backup pump around town but no one had any cheap ones so we just ended up running that the whole time and with no issue! It actually seemed to help the engine too, which was doing that high rpm starvation before (it wasn't the rev limiter after all) and now I can just floor it and hold 4000rpm and she's happy. Still acts weird sometimes, like if the truck downshifts and revs to 4k then it'll starve, but if it slowly revs up to that point then it's fine...
With that fixed go out and run the truck more and everything seems great!
Go to bed, it's Wednesday morning now, no plans to even run the truck really since we have tech/contingency (they just look at belts and safety gear, the other tech was a full inspection since it's a new truck and wasn't banded) later in the day and the race is the following day. Maybe drive around a little but don't want to risk breaking anything. So I'm walking around it and see it:
Blown axle seal, that sucks but big deal right? Just kidding, the whole fxxxing axle shaft is missing. Now some of you may remember I had a similar ish thing happen in Moab where I blew the passenger side studs and the shear pins fell out, shaft almost fell out, well this is like that but on steroids for the driver's side. We looked around and couldn't even find the shaft anywhere, no one knew where it had fallen out or when. The studs AND shear pins had all sheared. The theory with the passenger side was the studs loosened up so the shaft backed out a bit and then the studs sheared and the pins bent over--well this time everything including the pins were sheared on the hub. Now one thing I will admit is that I had torque checked all the hub studs every day, and one stud on that one axle had sheared just from checking the torque on it a few days prior. I find it hard to believe that Toyota has such small design margins that it wouldn't run fine on 5 studs and 2 pins, but obviously I was pushing the stock gear past what it was capable of regardless.
So there's two issues, we need to extract the studs in the hub as well as the shear pins (or redrill holes for them, thankfully from Kurt I had spares when the other side blew, as well as spare studs) which is either a easy or complete pain in the ass job and then we need a new shaft. Well my girlfriend's dad had brought new shafts for the rear that Jim's Yota Yard had donated in the event we needed one! Oh just kidding, they're semi float shafts...
I have no solutions at all at this point, I make a post on instagram that I lost an axle and have a jacked hub assembly and then give Kurt a call. Kurt tells me to talk to Rock Solid Offroad who happens to only be an hour and a half away, I call him up and we're in luck! He has a shaft we can use and says he'll lend his whole shop and talents to fix the hub since there is about a 1% chance with the tools we had we would be able to fix the hub. Course then there is logistics issues, we have tech in like 45 minutes and then have a driver's meeting at 6. So we stuff a bunch of paper towels in the hub so it's not obviously s***ting itself since you're not supposed to be leaking to be race legal, and drive through tech and contingency in 3WD which I'm now pretty prepared might be how we actually start the race.
Pass tech, get the emergency beacon and sticker and we're now fully legal to race!
Get back from that, and a guy who I know (but never met) from my 4Runner days had seen my instagram post, couldn't get in contact with me but then messaged my buddy from SRQ Fab since he had service, and it turns out he has a full 80 series axle set and is willing to pull it apart and bring us a full hub and axle assembly! He hadn't left his house yet, but he was in Phoenix so like a 5 hour drive. That then becomes our main option with RSO being the back up. Park the truck, pull the hub assembly off so we're ready for later that night--oh what's this small side issue?
The panhard/track bar is JACKED. No idea how/when/where/why this happened, but we are less than 24 hours from racing and have 3 wheels on the truck, a fxxxed up hub, missing an axle shaft, and a panhard bar that could be used as a boomerang. My theory is that the rear end has so much suspension travel that at full droop the panhard gets really steep, and when the suspension is quickly bumped (like in whoops) the panhard wasn't stiff enough to shift the body/axle to the side as it was swung upward. Either that or I somehow hit the rear end insanely hard, which I'm pretty sure I never did and pretty sure the truck would roll if I hit the rear axle that hard... any theories are welcome!
But not to worry, Ruff Stuff is here with a s*** load of steel!
Boom, 1.75" OD 0.25" wall panhard! Get it back in and time for the driver's meeting. Go to that, yada yada, we have no idea what's happening and my codriver is s***ting himself. Got two free pizzas, that was nice. Come back to the truck, 4Runner bro brought all the parts so we throw on the new hub and shaft and we are set! Take her for a little drive and everything seems to be working great! It's dark now, need to be lining up to race at 6:30am and on the line at the latest and suited by 7:30am and first car leaves at 8am. The truck is not loaded down AT ALL, but it is running! So we head to bed early to try and get some sleep, with the plan to wake up around 5am to load the truck and head over to the lineup at 6:30am.