Builds 400HP 6.2L LS with 6 Speed auto swap....no lift. Plug 'n play swap kit in development (12 Viewers)

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Marks 4WD adapters have been doing LS engines in the 80 series and others for years. They already have all the stuff to make physically mounting it a breeze including a custom sump to clear the tie rod.

The big problem is tuning the 6L80E with an appropriate shifting pattern to suit the weight and use of the vehicle it's going in to and most people who try seem to just end up burning them out when they screw with it.
 
Marks 4WD adapters have been doing LS engines in the 80 series and others for years. They already have all the stuff to make physically mounting it a breeze including a custom sump to clear the tie rod and exhaust headers that will fit nicely.

The big problem is tuning the 6L80E with an appropriate shifting pattern to suit the weight and use of the vehicle it's going in to and most people who try seem to just end up burning them out when they screw with it.
 
Marks is really proud of their stuff. My wheelbase solution should be very cheap relative to what Marks wants for their modified pan.

As for the 6L80 tuning, I have a friend who has been running one in an Ultra4 buggy for several years and has helped several others tune them in custom swap applications. He is on board to help me with mine, so hopefully it won't be a problem.
 
Marks is really proud of their stuff. My wheelbase solution should be very cheap relative to what Marks wants for their modified pan.

As for the 6L80 tuning, I have a friend who has been running one in an Ultra4 buggy for several years and has helped several others tune them in custom swap applications. He is on board to help me with mine, so hopefully it won't be a problem.
would this be transferable to others though?
 
C6 manifolds a tad too wide to fit between the frame rails. At least on a LQ4 with the tall intake manifold. With car intake you can sit the engine higher in the engine bay and the flanges should clear.
 
C6 manifolds a tad too wide to fit between the frame rails. At least on a LQ4 with the tall intake manifold. With car intake you can sit the engine higher in the engine bay and the flanges should clear.

Is it the manifolds themselves? Or the size and orientation of the flanges? Would cutting the flanges off and using v-bands fix the clearance issue?
 
Very interesting, and I love the sleeper concept here.

Curious to know the difference in weight between the the GM power plant mentioned and the 1FZE? Also, and pardon me if it was stated earlier, but is the t case you're using part-time 4wd? Or AWD?
 
It's the flange. If the bolt pattern were rotated 90 degrees they would fit. Not sure how you fit v bands. The flange itself is somewhat buried into the casting itself. I had considered cutting and rotating the flange but due to the design that does not appear an option.

Also, since we are talking about a cast iron manifold welding welding could be problematic.
 
I have not weighed the components myself, but I have read the difference is as much as 2-300lbs. The 1FZ is a heavy iron block engine, and the 6.2 is all aluminum which makes it 100lbs lighter than an equivalent iron block LS engine, so it should be a decent amount lighter.

I am keeping it AWD with the stock case. I figured that will be the only way to keep the rear axle alive behind 400+ HP.

I'm dying to get my hands on a set of the LS3 manifolds to play with them. The downside to these is that the LS7 exhausts are such good replacements, that very few people make shorty headers for the LS3 application. I think Magnaflow is the only company that does and they're in the neighborhood of $900!
 
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My install of an LS2 6.0 is with a Marks kit - but of course I'm RHD and manual in Australia. Can't tell you what sump they used as the GM part number label has been ripped off....... But it looks stock as a rock - no cut and shut that I can see.

But mine was custom wiring and zorst, not plug and play.

So far so good, including the low range trasfer gears.
 
I'm dying to get my hands on a set of the LS3 manifolds to play with them. The downside to these is that the LS7 exhausts are such good replacements, that very few people make shorty headers for the LS3 application. I think Magnaflow is the only company that does and they're in the neighborhood of $900!

Search LS headers on ebay. There are a bunch of options.
 
just out of curiosity, why not run an atlas t/c, instead or worrying about the strength of the yota case? Anybody know the weight difference of an oem toyota powerplant vs. an LS3?
 
View attachment 998597 My install of an LS2 6.0 is with a Marks kit - but of course I'm RHD and manual in Australia. Can't tell you what sump they used as the GM part number label has been ripped off....... But it looks stock as a rock - no cut and shut that I can see.

But mine was custom wiring and zorst, not plug and play.

So far so good, including the low range trasfer gears.

Would you mind sharing a picture or two of your exhaust manifold area?

just out of curiosity, why not run an atlas t/c, instead or worrying about the strength of the yota case? Anybody know the weight difference of an oem toyota powerplant vs. an LS3?

Several reasons not to use an Atlas. Cost, gas tank, rear diff offset, and I like the AWD are the primary reasons.
 
just out of curiosity, why not run an atlas t/c, instead or worrying about the strength of the yota case? Anybody know the weight difference of an oem toyota powerplant vs. an LS3?

The strength of the Toyota tcase has never been in question. It will easily handle pretty much any engine you put in front of it. An aluminum block LS motor is about 100 lbs lighter that the 1FZ.
 
The strength of the Toyota tcase has never been in question. It will easily handle pretty much any engine you put in front of it. An aluminum block LS motor is about 100 lbs lighter that the 1FZ.

got it. that is good news, honestly forgot about the rear offset and the last few 40 have been centered. 100lbs less is a great gain, no front end dive after bumper/winch. thnz
 
Would you mind sharing a picture or two of your exhaust manifold area?
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These are off the shelf Genie headers (you can check their Aussie web site) for a Patrol LS swap, these just needed a 'tickle' to make them fit.
I didn't want to use the Hooker cast manifolds which Marks also sell and they discontinued their shorty headers, so Genie it was. I did discover I can spin my wheels off the line yesterday on dry bitumen, downhill, without slipping the clutch.... Feed it out , floor it, and they light up. The 100 series TD didn't stand a chance :) Don't think I need to do that again though. The in gear acceleration is fantastic.
 
Arya - I was seeing the oilpan issue from pg1 & my immediate thought was to use a dry sump setup LS7/ZO6 style.
It may be a good $1200 more than a wet pan, but off-camber I'd think some would prefer it, esp since some candidates for this may consider $1200 a small issue when compared to having to pay for swap labor if a turn-key solution kit wasn't available.
Drysump.com seems to have a solution for most applications/budgets. --Lots of swap pic / links there too.
 

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