Yep.
Yep. I don't have all the specifics in my hands yet. What I do know is:
Minimal boring (.020") to retain wall strength.
Bored throttle body.
Balanced injectors.
Head ported.
Intake and exhaust gasket matched.
Compression 9:1.
Rotation balanced to zero.
Head benched flowed and cam engineered to match.
Built for torque, not rpm.
Not meant to be a put down at all, just to let folks know that they can and should do this to any 2FE motor they build. It's all pretty basic stuff.
FWIW, you can bore the pee outa a 2F block with no concerns about wal thickness. If you cared to get cutsom pistons made you could push it well beyond what is considered normal. How does .120 sound.
Nominal compresion of a 2FE that is .020 over is going to be 9.0:! right off the bat.
Opening the throttle body up some is a good move. Larger flow injectors might be a good thing to look into. I'd expect that to be the limiting factor now.
Balancing is always a good thing and should be done top any motor.
I'd expect the camshaft to be in the same range as the more popular carbed 2F cams... about 260+ advertised duration with about 440+ valve lift. (Choices are fairly limited.)
This motor will have a good strong lowrange that builds to a very strong midrange and keeps pulling to 5 grand and want to keep going. Probably peak torque at abot 25oo and peak horespower at about 4500. Assuming that they put the most effective cam in it. Broad and flat powerband.
I would expect that you will be very happy with it. IMHO the induction system is the limiting factor for a warmed over 2F. And the shorter rod length is the only thing that the 3FE has going against it. A well built 2FE is about the best you can do with that family of engines.
I currently have two 2FEs on the bench/in crates that I am getting ready to buid soon, and a 3FE that I have to decide whether to leave as a 3FE or turn into a 2FE.
Mark...
Holy smokes, that be one nice looking engine! What are it's specs? These guys build it? http://www.doaracingengines.com/
