Registry 3FE Owners Check-In (8 Viewers)

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What alternator did you go with as far as brand, part number?
See post here
150amp alternator
I needed the extra juice to run my elec. fans, upgraded the big 3 wires while i am in there as well. AC stays cold even during stop and go traffic and idle since my elec. fan ramps up to 60% when AC is on....Temp around 185F avg, with the 4000 CFM units.

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After chuch, I decided to drain the coolant, remove the thermostat and do a flush or two on the cooling system.

You know what they say about a 30 minute job? All is well until you break off a bolt. Also I found a mess. Spent all afternoon cleaning a flushing. I started with a CLR, ran the engine for 15 minutes. Drained, flushed. Then 3 more flush cycles using mixture of TIDE / Borax. I added a 50/50 mix of green anti freeze.

The broken bolt. I attempted to weld a nut on the "nub" 4 times, no go. Had to go to NAPA to get a Tap. Drilled it out, picked out the pieces of the bolt, then re-tapped the hole. Turned out good. Had to use a hardware store bolt for now. I'll order 4 new bolts for long term. It's all got to come out anyway when the head comes off.

I have a radiator, head gasket, water pump, belt idlers/tensioners, de-smog kit and gaskets on the way. Most likely I'l need a bunch of hoses too. I'll drain the coolant and flush again when the project starts.

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I wish this was the first thing I did too, mine was in similar shape and you could tell the previous owners had struggled with overheating issues (new radiator, lots of other cooling-related appendages). I can tell its way happier now!
 
Hey fellas,

Question, I have a fresh 3FE motor build. I have right around 1200 miles on it. I’ve changed the oil around 5 times now. It’s running pretty clean, no significant glitter when changing oil. Do I go with synthetic, or keep running conventional? I’m thinking synthetic, what weight/ brand would you go with? I’m pretty sure I need one with zinc.

Sorry if this has been beat to death in another thread. If so, would you please link it so I can read?

Thank you,

John
 
I don't run synthetic on these older motors. However, i have success running Rotella Diesel oil 15W-40 with very little oil consumption.
 
Hey fellas,

Question, I have a fresh 3FE motor build. I have right around 1200 miles on it. I’ve changed the oil around 5 times now. It’s running pretty clean, no significant glitter when changing oil. Do I go with synthetic, or keep running conventional? I’m thinking synthetic, what weight/ brand would you go with? I’m pretty sure I need one with zinc.

Sorry if this has been beat to death in another thread. If so, would you please link it so I can read?

Thank you,

John
I most likely will be running 15W-40 Synthetic Rotella since I already use it for the 2002 Tacoma 3RZ and the 1995 Ford 7.3
 
Also, went to put in a new voltage regulator in my alternator this weekend. It’s a Denso, external fan 80amp. I picked up an 80amp regulator, but it didn’t fit, none of the posts holes line up. I looked up a picture, and it appears it’s a 90amp regulator currently installed.

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Also, went to put in a new voltage regulator in my alternator this weekend. It’s a Denso, external fan 80amp. I picked up an 80amp regulator, but it didn’t fit, none of the posts holes line up. I looked up a picture, and it appears it’s a 90amp regulator currently installed.

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what was wrong with the regulator before? How was a bad regulator affect your voltage reading? etc?
 
Shrouded Dual Elec. Fans with a PWN fan controller is KING for the 80s. AC is ice cold at stop and go traffic in 100F heat without messing with fan clutch mod, aftermarket pusher fan to keep the AC cold. 210F at the highest going up 9k ft elevation in 2nd and 3rd gear @ 4k plus picking up quite a bit of extra HP ditching the factory mech. fan all together. The best part is never to worry about blowing your radiator during rock crawling with the factory fan flexing and make contact with the back of the radiator and ended up stranded up in the Rubicon...ask me how i know...

The downside to this is upgrading your power and wiring to support the extra load, probably should have done so if you carry extra load anyways for overlanding or running lots of accessories like my case. 10 yrs of owning the 3FE, 4 aftermarket radiators later...this might be the final setup ever needed for the 3F-E....
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what was wrong with the regulator before? How was a bad regulator affect your voltage reading? etc?
Hey man, I was getting a bunch of dash lights, and my battery voltage gage was spiking. I ended up just getting a new Ultama alternator, sorry to the Toyota purists. I couldn’t find a Denso unit. I’ll try and install it this weekend.

A buddy of mine (ASE mechanic) suggested that it was probably the voltage regulator.

Either way, I’m hoping this new alternator solves my issues.
 
Hey man, I was getting a bunch of dash lights, and my battery voltage gage was spiking. I ended up just getting a new Ultama alternator, sorry to the Toyota purists. I couldn’t find a Denso unit. I’ll try and install it this weekend.

A buddy of mine (ASE mechanic) suggested that it was probably the voltage regulator.

Either way, I’m hoping this new alternator solves my issues.
I am running a 150 amp Nissan alternator in the 3F-E, and it is awesome.
 
Nice! How much fabrication did you have to do in order to get that to work?
Curious of this too, I looked at the Nissan higher amp alternators and found stateside its easy to get 110-130 amp one that fit mid 00s 4cyl frontiers with the same mounting as the 150amp diesel aussie one that's been listed in links.

Looks like a pulley swap and harness plug but can't tell how the lower mount works with the 80amp fj80 bracket. I looked at 1GR alternators because toyota (and I have a spare) but the lower mounting ears are too close together.

2013 frontier 4cyl shown.
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Nice! How much fabrication did you have to do in order to get that to work?
You will need to upgrade your big 3 wires, a pulley to accept the belt, aftermarket fuse block, brackets, adaptor plug, etc. If you reuse your factory bracket, some shimming will be required to get the unit to align, etc. Honestly, if you are keeping the factory fan clutch, there is no reasons for this upgrade. I am running a fan controller and elec. fans setup to justify such demand.
 

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