3FE Owners Check-In (7 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I bought mine from parts geek . Unfortunately they look to be out of stock in the model I bought. P# 8062-05725327.

There are a few other options that looks to be the same build.

Sorry to hear your radiator got damaged. It looks pretty stuffed!
 
got the Ron Davis out, and now i can see the damage on the top fin just below the top tank. the ebay unit is going in this week while i wait for my new Ron Davis to arrive..but we will see how this one holds up...I am suspecting my motor mount/s are toasted. They were replaced 6 months ago. Can someone take a look at it and let me know if the driver side mount is bad?

TIA
20211010_161719.jpg

20211010_161659.jpg
 
got the Ron Davis out, and now i can see the damage on the top fin just below the top tank. the ebay unit is going in this week while i wait for my new Ron Davis to arrive..but we will see how this one holds up...I am suspecting my motor mount/s are toasted. They were replaced 6 months ago. Can someone take a look at it and let me know if the driver side mount is bad?

TIA
View attachment 2809671
View attachment 2809670
Marco, mounts look good, no cracking at the rubber to steel junction. I’m running a LiLand rad for 3+ years and it keeps the temp down in the summer months going uphill, with the wind, loaded down, in first gear.
 
Excited to have this donor. Planning to evaluate and hoping to swap this in for my knocking original with almost 250k. This one was supposedly running good and with under 100k miles when it was pulled, so fingers crossed!


IMG_20211009_112522_01.jpg
 
Excited to have this donor. Planning to evaluate and hoping to swap this in for my knocking original with almost 250k. This one was supposedly running good and with under 100k miles when it was pulled, so fingers crossed!


View attachment 2810860
I just love projects that require faith to get off the ground. It’s a thrill
 
I just love projects that require faith to get off the ground. It’s a thrill
100%! Plus, it'll be a thrill to put the money I save refreshing this one instead of buying a reman into a rear bumper if I pull it off!

As an aside, you're talking to a guy who tried to rebuild his A440F in his garage, so I'm very much a faith-based wrench, lol.
 
Marco, mounts look good, no cracking at the rubber to steel junction. I’m running a LiLand rad for 3+ years and it keeps the temp down in the summer months going uphill, with the wind, loaded down, in first gear.
@Marco Lau My 3FE came to me with a liland and for the two Utah summers I’ve had it running, it’s never had a motor temp issue.
I just found coolant under the truck yesterday, and will investigate this weekend. I’ll let you know if I find any faults in the rad itself.
 
100%! Plus, it'll be a thrill to put the money I save refreshing this one instead of buying a reman into a rear bumper if I pull it off!

As an aside, you're talking to a guy who tried to rebuild his A440F in his garage, so I'm very much a faith-based wrench, lol.
When you say tried to rebuild i'm guessing it didn't go well?
 
When you say tried to rebuild i'm guessing it didn't go well?
True statement, though I call it a highly educational failure.

Short version - After a weird lurch and terrible burning smell, truck wouldn't go in 1st or reverse. Pulled the trans, did the full rebuild, confirmed the fried 1st/Reverse clutch, did a bunch of stuff under the truck "while I was in there" (driveshaft bearings, rear main seal, full starter rebuild, oil pan gasket, can't remember what else), put it all back together and viola! I had first and reverse. BUT, the truck wouldn't shift out of 1st on its own and wouldn't shift beyond 2nd at all.

I actually convinced a pro to troubleshoot my failed amateur rebuild. His best guy checked it, then he checked it himself, couldn't find my mistake... and he eventually found me a working used A440F. I assume it was a valve body issue, but I'll never know for sure.

Like I said, educational, but I don't think I'd do it again, not on an A440F. That said, the idea of an engine rebuild or swapping in a manual transmission seems pretty straightforward after that.

0617171603.jpg


0702170825.jpg


1101171954.jpg


1213172223.jpg
 
True statement, though I call it a highly educational failure.

Short version - After a weird lurch and terrible burning smell, truck wouldn't go in 1st or reverse. Pulled the trans, did the full rebuild, confirmed the fried 1st/Reverse clutch, did a bunch of stuff under the truck "while I was in there" (driveshaft bearings, rear main seal, full starter rebuild, oil pan gasket, can't remember what else), put it all back together and viola! I had first and reverse. BUT, the truck wouldn't shift out of 1st on its own and wouldn't shift beyond 2nd at all.

I actually convinced a pro to troubleshoot my failed amateur rebuild. His best guy checked it, then he checked it himself, couldn't find my mistake... and he eventually found me a working used A440F. I assume it was a valve body issue, but I'll never know for sure.

Like I said, educational, but I don't think I'd do it again, not on an A440F. That said, the idea of an engine rebuild or swapping in a manual transmission seems pretty straightforward after that.

View attachment 2814778

View attachment 2814773

View attachment 2814781

View attachment 2814779
Wise man once told me we learn more from our failures than our victories.

I had a similar experience with my first 700r4 rebuild. Ended up fixing it somehow by removing and cleaning the valve body 4 times. This was 15 years ago and to this day I don’t actually know what I did to fix it.
 
@Marco Lau My 3FE came to me with a liland and for the two Utah summers I’ve had it running, it’s never had a motor temp issue.
I just found coolant under the truck yesterday, and will investigate this weekend. I’ll let you know if I find any faults in the rad itself.
@Marco Lau no leaks all weekend, I think it was the rad cap that day.

Either way, the liland 3-row has kept the temps down just fine up hills and down in 100 degree Utah heat.
 
@Marco Lau no leaks all weekend, I think it was the rad cap that day.

Either way, the liland 3-row has kept the temps down just fine up hills and down in 100 degree Utah heat.
thanks for the info. I just picked up a Liland 3 row this morning. The ebay junk i received as a temp. solution showed up with the brackets orientation incorrect so i had to return the unit. I am exciting to try this radiator out and if things go well, i might just run this vs the Ron Davis....but time will tell.
 
got the Liland unit installed, got new thermostat, housing, hoses, fan shroud and bits and pieces. just need to hook everything up again, flush and test the unit. I hope this unit works good.
View attachment 2820821
View attachment 2820822
Yes. Fingers crossed that is going to work for you! Do you see any immediate differences between this one and the last? It certainly looks the part!
 
Yes. Fingers crossed that is going to work for you! Do you see any immediate differences between this one and the last? It certainly looks the part!
The Liland unit aint no Ron Davis....but after seeing it in person, it is much better than the Ebay ones from China. I will have the rig running by end of the week, just need to button stuff up and do a flush and see how my temp looks. I will report back. If this unit can pass the street and highway test, then i will take it on the trail and see how it does. I am hopeful i can rely on this unit and not $1400 ones.
 
Going to be taking my fj80 on a 10 hour drive to the mountains. Is there anything I should be concerned about except for being slow?
haha...slow is relative. Every rigs out there with 37s or 40s are slow unless V8 swaps. My 3fe with all the mods actually faster than my brother's JK on 37s cause he can't sustain hill climbs above 4k rpm due to overheating....
Pull some timing on the 3FE, give it some higher octane and it will help with mountain passes...
 
haha...slow is relative. Every rigs out there with 37s or 40s are slow unless V8 swaps. My 3fe with all the mods actually faster than my brother's JK on 37s cause he can't sustain hill climbs above 4k rpm due to overheating....
Pull some timing on the 3FE, give it some higher octane and it will help with mountain passes...
Lucky I only have 33x10.50s on mine. I might play around with the timing before the trip. I have never really messed with it though.
 
If you have the timing set to OEM specifications there is no reason to play with timing or run premium fuel. If you're obsessed that you might have a problem then buy a can of octane boost and take it along as a pacifier.
 
If you have the timing set to OEM specifications there is no reason to play with timing or run premium fuel. If you're obsessed that you might have a problem then buy a can of octane boost and take it along as a pacifier.
there is a big difference in performance between stock timing and advance 13-14 degree. I just advance it 75% by rotating the dizzy CC, then dial it back so it doesnt ping..very simple. nothing is needed except with your ear and a 12mm wrench...
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom