Registry 3FE Owners Check-In (18 Viewers)

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burning what? plastic? paper? leaves? might drop the blower to look for foreign materials in the bottom of the squirrel cage. check the harness leading to the blower from the switch and the relay. Check the ground junction under the dash.
 
Mine had a wobbly pulley from worn bushings (can't rebuild those) so I ordered a rebuilt one off amazon for $250. It works, sort of. In the morning there is no assist at idle. I have to blip the throttle to get out of the driveway. I paid $150 for them to send a replacement, which they say they will refund when I send the old one back. I'll install it in the morning. Hopefully it functions better!
New pump functioned flawlessly. No groans, no leaks, and it even turns at idle with little effort. Also changed the steering damper for good measure.
 
I had the heat on, full bore, driving at highway (laughable) speed, and I noticed a strong burning smell...turned down the heat a little and it went away. Where would I start looking for where the smell is coming from?
My dad bought an old chevy blazer from a police auction. He complained that the heater would not blow even though he could hear the fan turning, and an odd smell. I took it apart and found roughly 4 pounds of marijuanna stuffed in the heater hoses and ducts. Could be that?
 
My dad bought an old chevy blazer from a police auction. He complained that the heater would not blow even though he could hear the fan turning, and an odd smell. I took it apart and found roughly 4 pounds of marijuanna stuffed in the heater hoses and ducts. Could be that?

Why couldn’t I be so lucky?!
 
Hey guys. So i did some wrenching on the cruiser this weekend. Vapor canister replacement and fuel filter, all preps for when my tank comes in. I also replaced the hood supports because they were shot. everything went smooth until i noticed the Tee connection on my EGR valve was cracked all to s**t and completely nonfunctional. After extensive research cheapest options to replace are in the hundreds, so I read up on the "desmog". Right now, until i learn more about my cruiser's operating characteristics, i would only want to do the third section. The EGR removal. My question is, are the three sections in Spook's guide exclusive? or do they assume you have completed the previous two? Also, if anyone knows a thread that helps out with the EGR vacuum hoses, please let me know. Ive done the research for the needed parts, i just want to know what hoses I am blocking off before i do it. thanks.

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I had the same issue, on the same “T”! For temporary use I put some “jb weld” on it, and it works fine!
I’m also gathering my courage, and parts, to do a complete de-smog in the VERY near future..... good luck.
 
I had to hand that off to my mechanic. He said that had to use a 3ft wrench to bust the nuts loose. I have a 91 with 300k on it
 
I had to hand that off to my mechanic. He said that had to use a 3ft wrench to bust the nuts loose. I have a 91 with 300k on it
Yeah, my front axle rebuild is now handed off to my mechanic, whoever did axle the last time had knuckle seal in the wrong order and made other mistakes. Very happy it is getting done.

Dude, 3ft wrench to remove the fuel hoses to and from the filter? It looks more fragile than that to me. Might just be a term of art for it being a PITA. My mechanic might be getting my fuel filter / hoses job, it he will take it. if not him or me, it's going to Spicoli at Ridgemont High.

"My dad is a tv repair man, he's got this ultimate set of tools, i can fix it"-Jeff Spicoli
 
bump? I'm going to try to break out the filter from the crust, if it doesn't work I need a back up plan. Anyone have experience with the inline efi style ones like this? FUELAB 818 Series Inline Fuel Filters 81801-1

$100? You can get all kinds of fuel filters for $5-10. The $5 ones I got look like the stock one basically. I'm going to use line wrenches to take mine off whenever I get to doing it.
 
$100? You can get all kinds of fuel filters for $5-10. The $5 ones I got look like the stock one basically. I'm going to use line wrenches to take mine off whenever I get to doing it.
I was using that link just kind of as an example, looking for feedback just like you gave, thanks! I have no experience with old fuel injection systems. Should I be concerned about fuel pressure and flow rate? If I could get away with just regular ones that work for carbed fuel systems that would be great.
 
I was using that link just kind of as an example, looking for feedback just like you gave, thanks! I have no experience with old fuel injection systems. Should I be concerned about fuel pressure and flow rate? If I could get away with just regular ones that work for carbed fuel systems that would be great.

I wouldn't necessarily use one made for a carbureted car. This is what I bought:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I8J07QC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
nice amazon find, thanks! what fittings does that use? and did it come with the washers, mixed opinions in the reviews, but otherwise looks good enough to try. Thing is I might have to make up my own lines if I can't get them off without destroying them.
 
nice amazon find, thanks! what fittings does that use? and did it come with the washers, mixed opinions in the reviews, but otherwise looks good enough to try. Thing is I might have to make up my own lines if I can't get them off without destroying them.

I'm of the opinion that a fuel filter is a fuel filter as long as it's manufactured without defects, these seemed fine and they're so cheap I bought two in case one becomes clogged.

If you intend to work with fuel lines or brakes and don't want to destroy them, I would again STRONGLY recommend getting a high quality (gearwrench, SK, snap on) set of flare nut wrenches. It's very easy to strip the nuts on the lines with a normal open end wrench, especially if you're in an awkward spot or the threads are corroded. That's just my experience though.
 
I'm of the opinion that a fuel filter is a fuel filter as long as it's manufactured without defects, these seemed fine and they're so cheap I bought two in case one becomes clogged.

If you intend to work with fuel lines or brakes and don't want to destroy them, I would again STRONGLY recommend getting a high quality (gearwrench, SK, snap on) set of flare nut wrenches. It's very easy to strip the nuts on the lines with a normal open end wrench, especially if you're in an awkward spot or the threads are corroded. That's just my experience though.
That is good advice I had not thought of, quality set of tools for the specific application. however, I have major rust on the fittings and filter, will have to get through some of that before I can even think about getting wrench on it. If I fail, it's getting cut out. edit: yep got both those things, awkward spot, rust, and experience stripping, breaking fasteners, then drilling out, tapping, replacing. Did that on almost every bolt I touched when bringing my cj7 back to life, it got salt water swamped in Sandy up to the axles. I'd like to avoid the same deal on the 80, but she is much cleaner, only rusty is specific areas, odd really.
 
Started with pb blaster last week, 3 applications so far. Might try the home brew Ive seen somewhere round here. Thx for the luck, will need it.
 

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