300k Mile LC100 Purchase Advice - What else to baseline? Pricing? (1 Viewer)

[StashT4R]

Hey guys, Im a current LC200 owner about to take the plunge into my first LC 100. If all goes well Ill be snagging this one in the coming weeks. My question for the experts here is two fold... 1) What else do I NEED to do to have this as reliable and "baselined" as possible, and 2) Should I be hesitant at the $9k price range?

The vehicle is going to be a 2002 with 300k on the clock. Interior isnt in the best shape, and needs covers or replaced seats. Some other minor interior things, but those arent a necessity.

The vehicle has had the following replaced (OEM) done in the last 5-10k miles:
-Timing belt/Water Pump
-Radiator
-Alternator
-Heater Ts
-Idler Pulley
-CV Axels
-Sway bar links
-Power steering rack
-Power steering pump
-Outer tie rod ends
-Rear axels
-Wheel bearings repacked
-U Joints
-Front drive shaft
-Brake caliper/rotors/pads
-Fuel Pump
-Engine/Trans mounts
-Ignition coils/spark plugs

Also had an Ironman lift setup installed 5k miles ago, with Slee diff drop...

With all of that maintenance done so recently, is there anything thats really missing? From my research I cant think of anything that is missing from the list really. Theres no undercarriage rust, as its been a southern truck. Anything you guys can think of preventative maintenance wise, or should I be safe to just start working on fixing the minor known issues on the interior? Asking price is right at $9.5k, but as always, Ill pay a bit of a premium for a well maintained cruiser that can last me another 10 years.

 

[Tanner H]

Thats a pretty good baseline thats already been done.

Maybe I missed it, but ask about the starter history. I would also ask about diff , t-case and transmission fluid.

-Also, the ignition tumbler on these can snap at any moment and leave you stranded. its the cast metal that the key goes into. Its not super common but it has happened to enough people.

 

[flintknapper]

That's quite a list of important improvements/maintenance.

You might check the condition of your Brake Booster for proper operation and note the condition of the brake fluid in the reservoir.

 

[ramangain]

Sounds impressive. Ensure you exercise it more often than not, check all of the rubber bits too (bushings, hoses, etc).

 

[Cruiser Vic]

Any history on the ABS unit more specifically ABS pump motor? The commutator wears down. I don't know if I spelled that correctly or not but it's where the brushes ride on the Armature.

 

[suprarx7nut]

If those are all OEM parts, that's a great list. If most those are cheap parts store stuff... not so good. At $9k and that mileage with a rough interior, I would expect OEM everything.

If I were buying a 100 like that I would check all the suspension bushings. They're probably all toast if they're original. There are 5 arms in the rear (10 bushings total), 5 bushings in the front diff and then the front upper and lower control arms and ball joints.

Worth mentioning again is OEM or not. OEM CVs and hub flanges is awesome. If they're aftermarket, that's a big gamble. OEM is $500 per axle. Aftermarket can be $50/axle. Multiple folks just recently have had aftermarket CVs fail in relatively few miles. That's easily a $1000 job to get new OEM axles and flanges if needed.

 

[StashT4R]

Much appreciated guys. I will definitely make note of the suggestions. I did forget to mention that diff/transfer case fluids had been changed as well.

You guys have helped put my mind at ease in terms of jumping into a 300k mile vehicle.

To my rather untrained 100 Series eye it appears the recent maintenance was all OEM replacements for the major items.

Banged up drivers seat, sound system buzzes, and could use a couple paint corrections. Maybe I’m crazy for looking at it as a $9k vehicle, but the maintenance history is so much more complete than most of what I’m seeing out there.

I seem to subscribe to the mileage doesn’t matter as long as it’s properly maintained mindset.

 

[LXKevin]

pictures or it didn't happen

 

[Patassa]

These prices are just getting silly. I have a 2002 with 315k and I can't imagine trying to sell it for 9k, though maybe I should. Interesting market at the moment, Covid + Camping hype I guess.

 

[StashT4R]

These prices are just getting silly. I have a 2002 with 315k and I can't imagine trying to sell it for 9k, though maybe I should. Interesting market at the moment, Covid + Camping hype I guess.

Prices are definitely getting a bit out of control for anything that’s had any sort of decent maintenance history. The handful that I’ve seen semi-local have all been in the $10-13k range with over 250k miles. Though time to be a buyer I suppose. That being said, I guess I’d take the $9k with 300k miles over a $10k with 255 and preventive maintenance due.

 

[LXKevin]

 

[StashT4R]

Hey guys, finally got around to grabbing some of the pictures/info I have on the potential 300k mile truck, and figured Id toss it up to get some opinions and others sets of eyes. These are the pictures I have off hand, and am waiting for some more, but figured this would be a good enough place to start. What are you guys seeing? Anything sticking out to yall? Its been a TX truck, so not worried about rust issues.

Like I mentioned previously, the interior is in bad shape. The seats would need to be replaced and the speakers apparently buzz when its playing. PO had fender flares that left marks on the fenders... All that being said, what are we thinking about it maintenance wise? The list of things that have been taken care of seems pretty exhaustive to me, and makes me think that this may not be a bad buy at the right price. Looking for a light daily driver, but ultimately will become a weekend car in a few years.

He was originally in the $9k range, but it looks like I may be able to make the deal at $6500 or $7k. Yay or nay? 2002 w/ 301k on it.

 

[ramangain]

Fair mix of OEM vs. non-OEM parts. If it drips nothing but water, doesn't sling grease except at the U-joints, and the proper electrics and switchgear all work, I'd say go for it.

One preventative thing to inspect/replace keep you from getting randomly stranded may be the crappy metal rod in the ignition cylinder. They break internally and render a key worthless to start the vehicle. Mine broke when parked on the top level of a multi-story garage. A flatbed wouldn't work due to the combined height of the flatbed and my rig, so I had to wait 3+ hours (IIRC) for a tow truck with the appropriate dolly.

 

[StashT4R]

Someone else had mentioned that as well, I appreciate the insight... Looks like Im probably going to pull the trigger on it unless someone pops in here and notices any major red flags or thinks the price is just ridiculous. It seems to be the consensus that most of the baseline work has been done for me, so that saves me some cash right off the bat.

The location is too far for me to inspect in person, so Ive been getting a healthy stream of updates/info/pictures, and would likely fly up and drive it home.

 

[AlpineAccess]

If you have a 200, what is the 100 with high miles for? Did I miss that?

 

[StashT4R]

Admittedly Ive always wanted one. Ended up with a work vehicle, so we sold our 2015 4Runner and Im replacing it with a weekend LC100 that I can have some fun with. The 200 is the family "do everything" daily driver.

 

[Brandon Ryder]

Who did the work is more important than what was done. I would prefer a dealer or even the owner himself as opposed to some local mechanic. I encountered lots of problems from shoddy workmanship and an uninformed mechanic that the previous owner used. They ruined more than they repaired. For example, they ruined the axle shafts through improper setup when they replaced the rotors, that's about a 1200+ additional cost i wasnt expecting. They also used a Bates timing belt which snapped on my wife shortly after purchasing. They also replaced a leaky heater T with a parts store T which stretched out the house preventing me from using a propper T or even the 4v seasons one. I'm about to replaced $120 worth of hoses because they saved 5 bucks.

In my case, the PO thought he had taken great care of his vehicle, and the interior was fantastic. I spent 8500 and it had 275k miles. I would not have spent that if it weren't for the interior.

Personally i would rather have a vehicle that needed all those repairs/ maintenance that i could do right, myself and pay a few $ less, than have to suffer with fixing poorly done work from the PO. The latter means you're paying to potentially do it twice. That said, it looks basically rust free. If i could get it for 7k i would buy. 9k you are overpaying in my book

 

[Cruiser Vic]

Who did the work is more important than what was done. I would prefer a dealer or even the owner himself as opposed to some local mechanic.

Have you worked at a dealer?
I've worked at a dealer with 30 Tech's, 27 of them were the biggest f*** ups you'll ever find. Stealing Parts off of one car and putting it on another car. Not changing all the parts and putting it in there tool box. One lady brought in a Suburban For oil change left after an hour and came back on a tow 45 minutes later. After interrogating the tech we found out he had switched a mass air flow sensor from a Suburban next to it that was having trouble. Did they tell the customer no they sold her a $785 service and got her going saying it was coincidence. So go get ****ed at the dealer with a 20 year old car that they see seldom. Or find yourself a independent and make sure he uses Quality Parts.

 

[AlpineAccess]

It's hard to make a definitive call on this one, but if you plan on it being a fun project and you get a great deal you'll likely enjoy it.

The market on these is inflated right now, and is likely to keep going up for awhile unless Toyota reverses their direction on the LC in North America.

Personally, I'd put the money you've got slated for this 100 into some minor adjustments to the 200. $6k+ goes a long way. ARB skid set, 1.5-2" lift, slightly more aggressive tires, sliders, possibly a hidden winch setup but not necessary.

 

[kevin2i]

Tons of opinions - building up the 200 would be great, if you don’t mind scratches and dings, lower MPG, and handling changes from lifts and big tires.

No guarantee prices will maintain their recent jump. 9k on a 80 series, or (worse) 60 series would get you a high mileage, rusty, neglected vehicle. This looks awesome in comparison. I don’t think you will lose anything if you bought this and decided to resell it in a year. If it drives nicely, it is priced fairly, especially if you can get it a bit lower.

I have 310k on my 98, and just bought a 2004 LC with 220 (one owner). I do all my work (just replaced steering rack, ball joints on the
98). I wouldn’t hesitate to jump in and take it across country.

A lot of the work performed is pretty basic, and if it looks visually correct I woudn’t worry. Radiator, power steering pump, easy to see. Timing belt and starters I would be concerned the work was done by a competent LC mechanic (or owner). Using an expensive battery is a good sign the owner was concerned about quality work. I would prefer this over a neglected 100 with 300k, those repairs/upgrades would be time consuming, and if hired out, would cost more than the $9k asking price.

It's hard to make a definitive call on this one, but if you plan on it being a fun project and you get a great deal you'll likely enjoy it.

The market on these is inflated right now, and is likely to keep going up for awhile unless Toyota reverses their direction on the LC in North America.

Personally, I'd put the money you've got slated for this 100 into some minor adjustments to the 200. $6k+ goes a long way. ARB skid set, 1.5-2" lift, slightly more aggressive tires, sliders, possibly a hidden winch setup but not necessary.