300k mile decision time...

[BiggestAUfan]

ok, so I'm requesting help from the experts here as anyone who has ever read a post of mine knows I am NOT mechanically inclined in the slightest.

My '97 LC has 300k on the speedo and I still don't see anything on the road not named Ferrari I'd rather drive. But, I fear I'm approaching a point where the 'ol girl may start to fall apart on me. She's bone stock except for 31s.

I REALLY don't want to buy a new vehicle because nothing looks as good as my LC and $40-$60k for something I won't like as much doesn't get me fired up either. So, what are the chances I can do something like this???

- Replace engine w/a new, lighter, stronger, more fuel eff option
- Rebuild (or replace w/better) transmission/transfer case/axles/spindles/bearings/gears & upgrade brakes
- New springs/shocks/3" lift & bump to 35's on 18-20's
- Replace all hoses/wiring/fuel lines/brake lines
- Replace or upgrade front seats, carpet (to include sound proofing material), ceiling material and some clean up to doors (w/new regulators/motors) and steering wheel/shifters upgrades/repairs, upgrade dash
- Upgrade stereo to a modern equipment w/8-12" indash screen for nav/net/etc etc, new speakers/wiring all around and replace that stupid freaking power antenna w/a snorkel and put a shark fin on top
- Front/rear bumpers/sliders/roof rack, winch & light bar/headlight and fog light upgrades
- new glass all around, new faster wiper motor and a paint job

I know if I go top of the line I could drop $100k. That's not the goal. Could I do the above with "decent" equipment for $25-$30k? Labor included?

And, if so, what shops would be recommended w/the knowledge, experience, trustworthiness and warranty to get the job done?

Many thanks in advance!

 

[DRACO 911]

First, I would do a leak down test and compression test to determine the health of your engine. You may be surprised unless you do not change your oil frequently.

 

[Funner]

ok, so I'm requesting help from the experts here as anyone who has ever read a post of mine knows I am NOT mechanically inclined in the slightest.

My '97 LC has 300k on the speedo and I still don't see anything on the road not named Ferrari I'd rather drive. But, I fear I'm approaching a point where the 'ol girl may start to fall apart on me. She's bone stock except for 31s.

I REALLY don't want to buy a new vehicle because nothing looks as good as my LC and $40-$60k for something I won't like as much doesn't get me fired up either. So, what are the chances I can do something like this???

- Replace engine w/a new, lighter, stronger, more fuel eff option
- Rebuild (or replace w/better) transmission/transfer case/axles/spindles/bearings/gears & upgrade brakes
- New springs/shocks/3" lift & bump to 35's on 18-20's
- Replace all hoses/wiring/fuel lines/brake lines
- Replace or upgrade front seats, carpet (to include sound proofing material), ceiling material and some clean up to doors (w/new regulators/motors) and steering wheel/shifters upgrades/repairs, upgrade dash
- Upgrade stereo to a modern equipment w/8-12" indash screen for nav/net/etc etc, new speakers/wiring all around and replace that stupid freaking power antenna w/a snorkel and put a shark fin on top
- Front/rear bumpers/sliders/roof rack, winch & light bar/headlight and fog light upgrades
- new glass all around, new faster wiper motor and a paint job

I know if I go top of the line I could drop $100k. That's not the goal. Could I do the above with "decent" equipment for $25-$30k? Labor included?

And, if so, what shops would be recommended w/the knowledge, experience, trustworthiness and warranty to get the job done?

Many thanks in advance!

No.

 

[Cruzerman]

Are you having issues?

 

[gnarlytoes]

Not the same engine, but my '92 had 290,000 when I went through the engine. Not only was there no ring groove, but I could still see cross hatching in the cylinder walls.

 

[maxamillion2345]

That's gonna be a no from me dawg.

 

[Jcreme]

Not the same engine, but my '92 had 306,000 miles when the head gasket finally gave it up. When I replaced it, not only was there no ring groove, but I could still see cross hatching in the cylinder walls.

Remembering the OP declared himself “NOT mechanically inclined in the slightest,” cross-hatching=original polishing finish on the cylinder walls. That is not only is there still tread on them tires, the little molding strings are still hanging on. Badass engine.

 

[ZackR]

Since when is 300k an issue? I take mine with 306k on 500+ mile regional trips all the time, often in the dirt without a second thought. Keep it dialed in and don't sweat it. As others have said when they tore open their high mileage engines the bottom end was still solid.

 

[CaptClose]

I think a diesel swap would satisfy your motor wants/needs. With labor, that would use up most of your budget. The rest of your list would require another $10-15k

 

[Dr Gil]

I have 350K on mine and no issues at all other than an oil leak from the oil pump.

However, I want some "piece of mind" when I drive on 1,000+ mile trips. Sure I could drive another 150K with likely,
no problems, but I wouldn't have that piece of mind.

I bought a used motor with 100K on it, and shipped it to a mechanic to rebuild at his pace. Likely to be $7,000-$8,000 for a rebuild on the top end, new hoses, water pump, and radiator. Neither am I mechanically literate either, so I hire people who are.

That $7-8K is worth my piece of mind rather trying to get another 100K miles out of it and the rebuild will more expensive in a couple of years and I'll have some piece of mind and wont' be paranoid of the vehicle having major problems while on my long trips.

 

[flintknapper]

I have over 300K on mine and it runs fine. I am going to do a preventative head gasket change, have the head freshened up and replace some leaking engine seals.

I did a compression test last year at about 295K miles. Still looking good!

 

[GW Nugget]

Is it a rust bucket or is the body & chassis in good shape? If so just put a little bit a money at a time to maintain. PMs...

 

[Lumpskie]

Here's my 2 cents:

- Replace engine w/a new, lighter, stronger, more fuel eff option
You probably don't need to do this - LC engines seem to last much longer than 300k. But, if you WANT to do this, the LS swap guys or diesel swap guys both get decent mileage

- Rebuild (or replace w/better) transmission/transfer case/axles/spindles/bearings/gears & upgrade brakes
Again, probably don't need a rebuild IMO

- New springs/shocks/3" lift & bump to 35's on 18-20's
I would budget $3-4k for this, depending on how fancy you want to go and how hard you wheel.

- Replace all hoses/wiring/fuel lines/brake lines
Are your current hoses/lines bad? Do you have rust issues?

- Replace or upgrade front seats, carpet (to include sound proofing material), ceiling material and some clean up to doors (w/new regulators/motors) and steering wheel/shifters upgrades/repairs, upgrade dash
I'm with you on this. Some nice front seats and interior refresh would make my cruiser feel much nicer too. Front seats can be done for around $1000. If you want heaters or heater/coolers, that could add up to another $1000

- Upgrade stereo to a modern equipment w/8-12" indash screen for nav/net/etc etc, new speakers/wiring all around and replace that stupid freaking power antenna w/a snorkel and put a shark fin on top
Replacement speakers and a head unit should run you about $1000 for middle of the road equipment, installed

- Front/rear bumpers/sliders/roof rack, winch & light bar/headlight and fog light upgrades
Basic aftermarket setup for this stuff can get expensive.... You're probably looking at $5K

- new glass all around, new faster wiper motor and a paint job
Again, is your current glass broken? Do your wipers work? Is your current paint beyond repair? Are you going the same or a different color? This could be less than $1000 for basic paint repair or near $10k for full paint in a different color.

And, if so, what shops would be recommended w/the knowledge, experience, trustworthiness and warranty to get the job done?
From what I'm hearing, it sounds like a shop like Profitt's Cruisers would be what you are looking for. He can give you quotes for top of the line restores as well as basic clean ups. Jeremiah is easy to reach and talk with.

 

[Heckraiser]

Curious as to why you think you need to do all this? When my 80 turned 315k, I celebrated by slapping a turbo on it, zero pre-turbo maintenance/upgrades.

My initial response to the OP is to dial back the enthusiasm and think through whether any of that plan is actually needed or just pie in the sky dreaming. Maybe half of it sounds like a colossal waste of money to me, but I suppose if you've got more money than you know what to do with, it's your truck

- Replace engine w/a new, lighter, stronger, more fuel eff option
Why? Is yours giving you any symptoms of failure? Or do you just have money burning a hole in your pocket and want more power? Engine swap is going to cost a fortune (think $20k for starters) if you're not doing the work yourself. I would say leave well enough alone or try to hunt down a supercharer or the new Wits' End Turbo kit if you're just looking for more power. Engine swaps for fuel economy are well documented to be a false economy--how much gas can you buy for $20,000?
- Rebuild (or replace w/better) transmission/transfer case/axles/spindles/bearings/gears & upgrade brakes
Again, why? Any symptoms? Have the transfer case and axles ever proven inadequate for your usage? Just because it's possible, doesn't mean its a good idea, and again, this is the kind of territory that if you're not mechanically inclined, best to leave well enough alone. Not to mention your setup would be all custom, and therefore not serviceable by a normal mechanic. I WOULD recommend you do a front knuckle seal/rebuild and DO IT YOURSELF so that you can learn how these things are put together.
- New springs/shocks/3" lift & bump to 35's on 18-20's
New suspension is always fun. At your mileage, I would recommend you inspect all the suspension bushings as well, mine are good and toasted at 325k. 18-20 inch rims are stupid on an off-road vehicle. No need to go over 17 (best tire size choices at 17), stock wheels also work great. Larger wheels = smaller sidewalls = more likely to get a pinch flat or FUBAR your rims when off road.
- Replace all hoses/wiring/fuel lines/brake lines
Probably overkill. I would replace all the coolant hoses as a start. Then just inspect the rest and see if it's actually needed. This is not the type of thing you should plan on doing "just for the heck of it" unless you're just looking to spend money.
- Replace or upgrade front seats, carpet (to include sound proofing material), ceiling material and some clean up to doors (w/new regulators/motors) and steering wheel/shifters upgrades/repairs, upgrade dash
Not sure what you mean by "upgrade dash" but the rest of this sounds good
- Upgrade stereo to a modern equipment w/8-12" indash screen for nav/net/etc etc, new speakers/wiring all around and replace that stupid freaking power antenna w/a snorkel and put a shark fin on top
Whatever floats your boat
- Front/rear bumpers/sliders/roof rack, winch & light bar/headlight and fog light upgrades
See above
- new glass all around, new faster wiper motor and a paint job
Is your glass actually bad? Again, this could be an expensive project, just for the hell of it. Do they make a different wiper motor for these? I've never felt my wipers were inadequate. Paint, whatever floats your boat.

 

[studawg]

Agree 100% with heckraiser above. Thats a 500k mile drivetrain in there, check your compression, refresh you cooling system and go. Throw on a small lift and 33s. Focus on seats, stereo, interior to make it feel new again.

What color is your 80? If its white or black, a cut and polish will do wonders! But if its any other color, it has clear coat, and if thats burnt off, it requires full sand/prime/paint to fix. If the clear isn't burnt through, then a light polish could help a little.

EDIT: By the way @BiggestAUfan , i know of several 300k+ mile 80s that are being driven everyday with factory drivetrains, never rebuilt. And one more thing, GO DAWGS!

 

[BILT4ME]

Slee
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[Jgunner]

Damn, 315k THEN add a turbo? Heckraiser has just given me new hope on actual usable power. Now if i could sell my ls swap stuff, i could get on that turbo kit. Hmmmm

 

[Heckraiser]

Don't get me wrong, LS swap would be sweet. If money were no object, I would probably have 6.2. But like I said, a reputable cruiser shop will charge $20k and up depending on what you want. I work for my money and would like to retire someday. $4-5k for the Wits' End setup is a great deal after fumbling my way through my own turbo setup for a little over $2k and making a lot of goof-ups.

My compression and leakdown was solid at 315k. My valve seals are leaking a little and I have little oil leaks like all cruisers, but the 1fz-fe should go to 450-500k as long as you keep some oil in it.

 

[ZackR]

In all honesty I'm more worried about old bushings, wiring, relays, rear defroster, slow windows, rattles, etc.. than the engine at 300k+.

 

[Jason hansen]

If you fix it when it breaks it will last forever.