Builds 3 days and 3300 miles later (1 Viewer)

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Frame and wheels look great Matt.

Are you going to run stock suspension, or a slight lift? Any plans for using the LPB to haul or tow? Just curious.

:cheers:
 
Matt- I've searched and can't find out what sand/media blaster you're using. I'm doing a similar build, (66LV) and having a hell of a time with my commerical sand blaster guy! He's had my frame and axles for 2 weeks, and still no progress! Think I'll go buy another blaster ( I have a small cabinet) and just doing the big stuff myself.

Q's: 1. Which blaster setup are you using? ie, type of blaster and media

2. How do you recover all of your used sanding media if you do it outside??

Plus, I like the idea of using the same product that you did on your engine/trans/x-fer....looks fantastic!! Love your build-ups! They're definately a source of encouragement!

Jeff Van Wyk
JeffVanWyk@yahoo.com
 
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Got about 2 hours on the lpb tonight, all painting.

The clear from this morning had 13 hours to dry all day, and was totally dry when I got home. Pulled the rims down and wrapped them in plastic for the time being....tires are going to be here Friday.

Hung up all the freshly sandblasted leaves from the rear leaf springs, 16 total. Also hung up the rear sparre tire carrier x-member, needs work, but had him blast it so it wasn't so rusty to work on...just want to get it into primer. Also hung up sway bar brackets, tie rod end clamps and shock washers.

Layed down a couple coats of DP90LF...waited an hour and then shot 2 coats of MTK single stage ureathane. I think for 30 year old leaf springs they look pretty good....also shouldn't rust for a long time.

Matt
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Frame and wheels look great Matt.

Are you going to run stock suspension, or a slight lift? Any plans for using the LPB to haul or tow? Just curious.

:cheers:


Actually a little stock and a little aftermarket on the suspension. Going to use the rear stock springs and I ordered up a set of front springs with a 2.5" lift. I might be kicking myself, hoping the front is not going to be to high. It seemed to be leaning forward before I took it apart...might have been a combination of wore out springs and that heavy Warn winch hanging out front. If it sits to high, might just have to take out a leaf? Also plan on greasable shackles with poly bushings.


As far as tow....I will be building a bumper with a reciever built in. But as far as towing? I have pulled stuff with my stock FJ40 and the 2F leaves a little bit to be desired in the pulling department ;)

Matt
 
Matt- I've searched and can't find out what sand/media blaster you're using. I'm doing a similar build, (66LV) and having a hell of a time with my commerical sand blaster guy! He's had my frame and axles for 2 weeks, and still no progress! Think I'll go buy another blaster ( I have a small cabinet) and just doing the big stuff myself.

Q's: 1. Which blaster setup are you using? ie, type of blaster and media

2. How do you recover all of your used sanding media if you do it outside??

Plus, I like the idea of using the same product that you did on your engine/trans/x-fer....looks fantastic!! Love your build-ups! They're definately a source of encouragement!

Jeff Van Wyk
JeffVanWyk@yahoo.com

Hi Jeff,


1. When I do sandblasting myself and I'm dong big stuff I use a towable ingersoll rand diesel compressor. It is capable of 185 CFM at 175 psi. The blaster is made by a company called cyclone (but there all the same), 100 lb gravity feed with a 1/4" tip. I use a silica sand called 2010, pretty abrasive. This set up works extremely well.

2. I don't


If your sandblast guy is reputable, has the right equipment and knows what he's doing.....3 to 5 hours for the frame and axles.

Keep in mind if you decide to do it yourself........you need a BIG aircompressor, at least 25 to 30 cfm and 90 psi. Might be easier and cheaper to rent it along with the blaster. Also keep in mind that it is a s***ty, messy, s***ty job.....did I say messy? It works for me because I live in a rural area and have an area to make a mess. I only choose to do it when it suits my time table and I want to get something done ASAP. When I can I would prefer that someone else did it.

I think if you can...get your blaster guy to get after it. Or find a different guy.

Hope this helps, Matt
 
Hi Jeff,


1. When I do sandblasting myself and I'm dong big stuff I use a towable ingersoll rand diesel compressor. It is capable of 185 CFM at 175 psi. The blaster is made by a company called cyclone (but there all the same), 100 lb gravity feed with a 1/4" tip. I use a silica sand called 2010, pretty abrasive. This set up works extremely well.

2. I don't


If your sandblast guy is reputable, has the right equipment and knows what he's doing.....3 to 5 hours for the frame and axles.

Keep in mind if you decide to do it yourself........you need a BIG aircompressor, at least 25 to 30 cfm and 90 psi. Might be easier and cheaper to rent it along with the blaster. Also keep in mind that it is a s***ty, messy, s***ty job.....did I say messy? It works for me because I live in a rural area and have an area to make a mess. I only choose to do it when it suits my time table and I want to get something done ASAP. When I can I would prefer that someone else did it.

I think if you can...get your blaster guy to get after it. Or find a different guy.

Hope this helps, Matt

When I blast my frames and stuff:

2. I blast in my driveway and vacuume up the star dust (re-usable graphite I believe) and strain into my hopper. When I do this, I try to contain as much sand in a smaller area by puting up some 4x8 sheets of plywood around the frame/body. @ $18 per 100lb bag, I spend about 20 minutes vacuuming. But it depends on your cash flow / frugality.

Just my 2 cents.
 
Prestly at Action Metal Stripping in Hubard, Or has thermal, glass, plastic, sand and cheemical.

John at Allresistant Coatingsin Hubbard, Or does sand and all my powder coating.

Hubbard is North of Woodburn and South of Canby.

It's a freaking mess.

Shane
 
I have found that reusing sand is pretty easy as long as it stays dry. I have one of those tarp covered 10x20 carports that I have one side wall on. I lay down a large piece of plastic, do the blasting, then lift the plastic on the corners to pile the used sand. then using a large ice scoop put it in 5 gallon buckets. I made a sifter with hardware cloth that fits the top of the pressure blaster. has worked out pretty good on a couple of restorations I have done but I work at about 1/10 the speed of Matt and probably have results only half as good


Just be careful about wearing a respirator. I ruined my craftsman air compressor right away. but got an industrial model now. I try to do only about half hour at a time now letting it really cool down before the next pot.

If you want any more tips let me know such as lighted welding helmet converted to blasting hood.
 
Got about 1.5 hours on the lpb tonight....not a lot done, just misc. stuff.

Got some grade 8, 3/8" bolts and turned the head down in the lathe and made some spring pins for the rear springs. It actually didn't take that long to put the springs back together. Used a clamp to hold the springs while I got the pin in and started, used the impact wrench and tightened them up. Cut the remaining bolt off with a cut off wheel.

Few parts showed up today, mostly spring pins and bushings. Also motor mounts and tie rod ends. The paint was coming off the motor mounts in the box so I threw them in the cabinet blaster and cleaned them up. Hung up the mounts and tie rod ends in the booth. Waiting for a couple other parts to show up and plan on painting them all black at the same time....other parts should be here Friday and plan to paint them that night. All of the bushings had a 1/8" flange except 1 set of 4, had to turn the flange down in the lathe also.

Bringing in my rims tomorrow to the tire shop. 3 of my 4 tires came in today, other 1 will be here Monday. I saved a couple of the old tires that were pretty decent, 1 for a spare. Going to mount 3 new ones tomorrow and the spare. In case I get that far this weekend and need some rubber to roll around I'll have it. Get the other new one mounted on Monday and switched out.

Matt
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paint vs. pc

I hosed on the primer on the inside of the frame rails where it was running out between the 2 halves in places....so as far as primer is concerned, I got a fair amount penetrated in between there. As far as doing that with paint, you just don't shoot paint like that. Even uniform coats, really the only way to do it. You can get away with that with primer because it dries quick and any runs you can sand out before the top coat.

I think your only other option for absolute coverage would be to seperate the frame halves, blast, prime and paint......and that ain't going to happen in my life time. I just don't want to work that hard, it would be a major pain in the ass to do something like that.

I think you need to ask yourself, "where do you draw the line?" Anything can be done of course, you could have it dipped and galvanized....how much time and money do you want to spend?? I think sandblasting a solid frame and trying to get the blasting tip in every hole you can does a pretty good job. And then turning the pattern down on the gun and hosing epoxy primer in hole you can....more than the factory did? I'm thinking it should outlast me..and if it doesn't, I'll fix it 30 to 40 years ;)

Matt

thanks for the explanation, it makes sense. my media blast person wants $230.00 to blast the frame and axles. if he powder coats it the total is $500.00, which is just the frame of course bc you can't do the axles. for the dif. in cost, do you think it is worth PC? i don't have a bunch of paint laying around so i will have to go buy the materials and then shoot it. the cost seems reasonable to me? what have others been paying?
 
As far as tow....I will be building a bumper with a reciever built in. But as far as towing? I have pulled stuff with my stock FJ40 and the 2F leaves a little bit to be desired in the pulling department ;)

Matt[/QUOTE]

Down the road they suck but as a tractor for moving trailers around the property and into small spots they work awsome even with heavy loads on fairly level ground.
 
Fenders?
 
Hi Matt, I have a 77fj45 with a bed missing. I too would like it to restore to original. I was wondering if you would sell me your other bed? thanks.
Allen
 
Hi Matt, I have a 77fj45 with a bed missing. I too would like it to restore to original. I was wondering if you would sell me your other bed? thanks.
Allen



Your thinking the dark green bed that came on this one?

Your one durable dude ;)


Matt
 
About 1 hour on the lpb tonight...really didn't try that hard.

Shocks came today, which I expected. My eperience with shocks is that after a couple years of driving...most of the paint has flaked off and they look like sh-t. I took a scotchbrite pad and scrubbed/scratched them up. Shot a couple coats of DP48LF (white epoxy primer) and then a couple coats of clear/DCU2021. Look pretty much the same, but hopefully will last a little longer.

Also picked up 3 new tires and 1 spare today from the tire shop. The other new one will be here Monday. At least I have 4 if I get the chassis rolling again this weekend. Crappy pic, but I think they look pretty decent for those old 16" split rims? Got 255/85R16's, they definetely look like they will be the right size. Seem to be about the same height as 33 x 9.5's, but a tad wider.

Front springs, U-bolts, shackles and a few other misc. parts are supposed to be here tomorrow. If everything goes as planned, hoping to hang the new springs tomorrow night and get them epoxy primed and painted. And then if all the planets align.....might get it rolling again Saturday. :)

Matt
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Those tires are gonna be :grinpimp: on that truck, what's the brand/model? BTW is that the spring pin that Treeroot seems to break on his truck :hillbilly:, and is that basically a viable trail fix for that issue? /hijack, keep up the good work.
 
Those tires are gonna be :grinpimp: on that truck, what's the brand/model? BTW is that the spring pin that Treeroot seems to break on his truck :hillbilly:, and is that basically a viable trail fix for that issue? /hijack, keep up the good work.


Tires are Cooper Discoverer S/T's

http://www.coopertire.com/us/en/ProductDetails.asp?ProdType=LtTruck&id=190&title=Light+Truck+Tires

Price was right and really liked how they looked, figured I would give them a try.

As far as the pin and Treeroot, not sure? It is a grade 8 fine thread bolt, I know it is as good as the orginal and should outlast me :)

Matt
 

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