3:1/4:1 gears in a split case (2 Viewers)

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SO the new Tcase arrived today with the new 3:1 gears! ok, so now its time to take an angle grinder to the inside of that brand new case! has anyone done this themselves and can they tell me about it? I mentioned above that I got a pic form cruiser outfitters of the parts they grind off, but the pic is what they grind for 4:1 gears, which is apparently a lot more removed than whats needed to fit the 3:1. no one really got back to me earlier so Im hoping someone else can give me a little insight on whats required to fit the 3:1's in a splitcase. how long ill need, and if angle grinder will do? thanks! stoked to get back in the dirt!
 
SO the new Tcase arrived today with the new 3:1 gears! ok, so now its time to take an angle grinder to the inside of that brand new case! has anyone done this themselves and can they tell me about it? I mentioned above that I got a pic form cruiser outfitters of the parts they grind off, but the pic is what they grind for 4:1 gears, which is apparently a lot more removed than whats needed to fit the 3:1. no one really got back to me earlier so Im hoping someone else can give me a little insight on whats required to fit the 3:1's in a splitcase. how long ill need, and if angle grinder will do? thanks! stoked to get back in the dirt!

I google'd "grinding split case for low gears ih8mud" and found this for you.

 
I google'd "grinding split case for low gears ih8mud" and found this for you.

hahahah thanks, i can sense the vibe ;) trust me, I did search, but my queries were inferior I guess. thanks man
 
I google'd "grinding split case for low gears ih8mud" and found this for you.

ahhh, yeah I watched that video a few days ago a few times. and that thread doesn't have any of the info im looking for unfortunately. I want to know about peoples experience doing the clearance themselves with a die grinder or angle grinder. like I said I have pics straight from cruiser outfitters of the machined case like in that thread, but that amount of machining is for the 4:1 gears that require more machining then the 3:1. so im hoping to hear from someone that has done it for the 3:1 and can tell me how long it took and what tool they used. and if im lucky a pic of how much material they had to remove.
 
ahhh, yeah I watched that video a few days ago a few times. and that thread doesn't have any of the info im looking for unfortunately. I want to know about peoples experience doing the clearance themselves with a die grinder or angle grinder. like I said I have pics straight from cruiser outfitters of the machined case like in that thread, but that amount of machining is for the 4:1 gears that require more machining then the 3:1. so im hoping to hear from someone that has done it for the 3:1 and can tell me how long it took and what tool they used. and if im lucky a pic of how much material they had to remove.

I have done it, with an angle grinder and I now machine them as a service like Cruiser Outfitters and Valley Hybrids. (although I do them on my manual mill with a setup I built vs CNC). I linked that thread because those pictures show EXACTLY what you are asking for. There's a reason we are machining them and not using an angle grinder. The machined areas you are seeing is removing the minimal amount of material. So what you want to do is try and make it look like that with your angle grinder or die grinder. It gets really thin. You will probably punch through the case.
 
SO the new Tcase arrived today with the new 3:1 gears! ok, so now its time to take an angle grinder to the inside of that brand new case! has anyone done this themselves and can they tell me about it? I mentioned above that I got a pic form cruiser outfitters of the parts they grind off, but the pic is what they grind for 4:1 gears, which is apparently a lot more removed than whats needed to fit the 3:1. no one really got back to me earlier so Im hoping someone else can give me a little insight on whats required to fit the 3:1's in a splitcase. how long ill need, and if angle grinder will do? thanks! stoked to get back in the dirt!

That arrived quickly!

Let me chat with our parts engineer/t-case builder and see if he has pics of the 3:1 grinding, it is less. We already stock (7) t-case part numbers so having a few additional part numbers for a "3:1 only machining" just isn't currently ideal when ~75% of our customers go lower than 3:1. I'll chat with him and see if it's something that would make sense. On the welding, we simply prefer to do it. There is variance is split case thickness from old to new and it gets thinner than we liked, so welding makes a very strong solution and allows more clearance. Obviously it can be done sans welding and we did that for quite some time, but at current we are in overkill mode. :D

If hand clearancing (many have done it without too much issue), the best way imo is to mount the front half of the t-case to the back of the trans. (Mask/tape anything that can't shouldn't get grinding swarf all over it). Slide the input gear on the back of the trans (be prepared to tap it on and pull it off as it will be tiiiiiight if using a new trans and/or gear), use your old idler shaft and bearings but slide the new idler gear on and off as you clearance. The spots you have to clearance will be very evident. You could use some marking compound or even spray paint to show witness marks where you are getting interferece.
 
SO the new Tcase arrived today with the new 3:1 gears! ok, so now its time to take an angle grinder to the inside of that brand new case! has anyone done this themselves and can they tell me about it? I mentioned above that I got a pic form cruiser outfitters of the parts they grind off, but the pic is what they grind for 4:1 gears, which is apparently a lot more removed than whats needed to fit the 3:1. no one really got back to me earlier so Im hoping someone else can give me a little insight on whats required to fit the 3:1's in a splitcase. how long ill need, and if angle grinder will do? thanks! stoked to get back in the dirt!
Calen, I’ve done my own case a few years ago with the 3:1 on a 38 mm case. When you set the gear in there, mark it with a Sharpie and be patient. I had my case built up with TIG at the areas it gets thin.
I’ll look for pics later on and send what I did over.
I can say there is no noise with these gears. Quiet as stock. But nice difference when you need it
I’m in Ladysmith in the island so not far away if you have any real time questions.
 
I have done it, with an angle grinder and I now machine them as a service just like Cruiser Outfit and Valley Hybrids. I linked that thread because those pictures show EXACTLY what you are asking for. There's a reason we are machining them and not using an angle grinder. The machined areas you are seeing is removing the minimal amount of material. So what you want to do is try and make it look like that with your angle grinder or die grinder. It gets really thin. You will probably punch through the case.
hmmmm, everyone Ive talked to so far said that about the 4:1's including welding to the outside. but they have all said that the 3:1 is significantly less grinding is necessary. specifically Cruiser O said to me that with the 3:1 there is no welding to the outside needed, and that the grinding was very minimal. trust me, If I could afford another 1000$ on top of this unexpected 3600$ bill of a new tcase id a done it
That arrived quickly!

Let me chat with our parts engineer/t-case builder and see if he has pics of the 3:1 grinding, it is less. We already stock (7) t-case part numbers so having a few additional part numbers for a "3:1 only machining" just isn't currently ideal when ~75% of our customers go lower than 3:1. I'll chat with him and see if it's something that would make sense. On the welding, we simply prefer to do it. There is variance is split case thickness from old to new and it gets thinner than we liked, so welding makes a very strong solution and allows more clearance. Obviously it can be done sans welding and we did that for quite some time, but at current we are in overkill mode. :D

If hand clearancing (many have done it without too much issue), the best way imo is to mount the front half of the t-case to the back of the trans. (Mask/tape anything that can't shouldn't get grinding swarf all over it). Slide the input gear on the back of the trans (be prepared to tap it on and pull it off as it will be tiiiiiight if using a new trans and/or gear), use your old idler shaft and bearings but slide the new idler gear on and off as you clearance. The spots you have to clearance will be very evident. You could use some marking compound or even spray paint to show witness marks where you are getting interferece.
awesome! this is what i was looking for. if you can find that pic that would be great. yeah came real fast! yeah Id have had you guys do it but I hadn't planned on touching my t-case let alone needing a new one for at least 30 years lol. this was a very sad and unexpected expense, and I didn't have the money to buy the case in the first place let alone have anyone do anything for me that I couldn't possibly do myself. had to get the gears to make this slightly positive :)
 
Calen, I’ve done my own case a few years ago with the 3:1 on a 38 mm case. When you set the gear in there, mark it with a Sharpie and be patient. I had my case built up with TIG at the areas it gets thin.
I’ll look for pics later on and send what I did over.
I can say there is no noise with these gears. Quiet as stock. But nice difference when you need it
I’m in Ladysmith in the island so not far away if you have any real time questions.
thanks man that would be awesome. ok, well ima go for it, and Igot a boss aluminum welder friend so if I grind too thin or through Ill get him to patch it hahaha. excited for a little slower crawlin :) this will be my first time inside a split case, or a case of any kind. with a new assembled tcase that needs clearencing and the new gears applied, what kinda time am I looking at? Thanks for any advice!
 
so I dont have very good clean space at my house and where I have a clean bench, I dont have anywhere to remove the tranny from the car. I watched a video of a guy rebuilding a h55f and he mentioned that he wished he had taken the split case off before taking the tranny out as it would have been easier, and he ended up putting the tcase together under the car afterwords when he reinstalled the transmission. Id love to remove the least things to get this job done, anyone suggesting that I DO NOT swap in the new tcase with the tranny still in the car? its a brand new case assembled, however i need to clearence the case myself for 3:1 gears and swap those too.
 
sounds like you need to hire someone?
 
sounds like you need to hire someone?
uh, no, just need to know if anyones done this this way (swaped t case with tranny in car) and if they would recommend otherwise. I was going to pull the whole thing and do it on a bench but now heard that what i want to do is easier without removing the tranny. just trying to get confirmation on this from someone thats done it. haha, id never have gotten a Mud account if I had money to throw at mechanics lol.
 
ok so for anyone interested in what i was interested in, here is a pic of my grinding for 3:1 low range gears in the split case.
did it with a s***ty ryobi grinder, in my office, sitting on a block of foam. took me 1:45hrs. no clearance is needed on the gear with 2 gears (hahaha good with the terminology) just need to do the part where the pressed on gear rides. Basically i would hold the gear cluster in place and it makes marks where its toughing, shave some off, do it again, shave it off... till it spins freely. boom, done. If your at all good with things of this nature then I would highly recommend doing it yourself. it was nothing at all. and no welding was necessary, still plenty thick as far as i can tell. this is what mine looked like. its in the car and kicks ass. not sure if its chill to crawl obstacles in 4th with 5 passengers and 500+ lbs of film equipment and camping gear, but i did, and it was great.

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About the motor mounts, would simply replacing the old ones with new OEM mounts suffice or is there modification/strengthening required for the 4:1 gears?
 
About the motor mounts, would simply replacing the old ones with new OEM mounts suffice or is there modification/strengthening required for the 4:1 gears?
hahah that is something I guess ill find out about. I replaced my mounts before this but not because of this. because they were fully separated lol. have not heard a ton of mention about stress on mounts. but im not the expert on this.
 
Gentle on the clutch drops and you shouldn’t break anything.

Worried about it? Chop the studs on a motor mount. Then drill it for a through bolt don’t over tighten it.

Or a 3ft length of chain and 3-4inch bolt and nut washer as a trail back up. To wrap a Mount if you break one.
 
Gentle on the clutch drops and you shouldn’t break anything.

Worried about it? Chop the studs on a motor mount. Then drill it for a through bolt don’t over tighten it.

Or a 3ft length of chain and 3-4inch bolt and nut washer as a trail back up. To wrap a Mount if you break one.
oooo, i like the simplicity of the through bolt. if i run into any problems ill do that. hahaha, sounds like a solution i can do after the mount separates hahaha.
 

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