2FE into a 60

[RockDoc]

I've had mine in for coming on 3 years, "daily drive" it, it's been out for lots of trips between Manitoba and Calgary, has towed a tandom axle trailer and flat towed a FJ55 for long stretches, has gone down to Moab and had the piss wheeled out of it..... still works.

Off the top of my head, the accessory bracketry and cooling hoses were the only things that didn't bolt straight up in the 62.

 

[lubedude]

Okay, I finally got the wiring all pulled out of the harness thanks to Drew's (60 Toy ota) efforts and the video he posted. Got it all put together, grouped and bundled roughly where everything has to go (location wise) ont he truck and taped it up. I only have 1 wire I'm not sure of where it goes. It is the large dia black wire with the blue stipe that comes out of the large 5 pin plug that connects to the engine harness. from all the wiring diagrams I can make out, I think it goes to the ignition. Can anyone confirm this for me? I'll get some pics up here right away.

My plan is to chop the old exhaust out here this week and get the engine back in. Once that is done, start pulling the dash apart to run the new harness in it and connect that all up.

 

[lubedude]

Here are a few updated pics. The last one shows that one wire (Black with a Blue stripe) that comes from the 5 pin plug that connects to the engine harness. You can see it it much heavier than the other wires in the harness. That is why I think it comes from the injectors and goes to the ignition somehow. Any thoughts?

 

[lubedude]

that worked well... I'm really not installing all this on the ceiling.....

 

[pappy]

The engine harness has connectors for:
• ECU (2)
• Main harness
• Fuel injectors (6)
• Cold start injector
• Ox sensors (2)
• Cold start time switch
• Water temperature switch
• Water temperature sensor
• Water temperature sender
• Throttle position sensor
• Idle speed control valve
• Distributor

The cowl harness has EFI connectors for:
• ECU (1)
• Engine harness
• Air flow meter
• Ignitor
• Main relay
• Circuit open relay
• Fuel regulator VSV(B-L + R)

Plus, it has wires for:
• EFI Fuse (R-Y)
• Ignition Fuse (B-L)
• Speed sensor (G-B)
• Start switch (B-W) (splice to B-R)
• 4WD switch (Y-B)
• Brake light switch (G-W)
• Ground (BR)
• A\C (B-W)
• Check engine light (Y-G, Y-W?)

4th (4th & 5th in 1988) Connector:
• From: Ignition-Starter (neutral start switch) (B-R)
• From: Ignition Fuse (B-L)
• From: EFI main relay (Y-R)
• To: Tachometer (B)
• To: Fuel Pump (R-G)
• To: Water temperature gauge (G)
• Bridge: AFM to TPS (G-R)

 

[TobyB]

So, Pappy, I've got a question-

you carry the black-red start wire to the cold start circuit, the fuel pump relay (circuit- opening) and ECU.
But then, at the ECU, tie the black-red to the black-white for the neutral start switch, and tie that to black-white from the 60 (start wire)?

That would SEEM to tell the ECU that the truck's always in neutral when it's not starting,
because on the 62, black-red gets pulled to 0v by the starter solenoid, but black-white is
actually allowed to 'float' between the open contact at the ignition and the open contact
at the neutral safety switch.
So it's 12v in start, 0v in park, but OPEN in 'drive'?

Am I missing something? Does it matter?

thanks,

t

(and check engine's yellow-white on my harness, too)

 

[TobyB]

And as to the black-blue wire-

the 62 has an extra pair of contacts in the ignition switch to power the EFI. The black-blue
wire provides +12v for the injectors, ignitor, and a couple other things. IT IS NOT FUSED!
It relies on a fusible link at the battery. It DOES run a wire to the fuse block, then back to the ECU-
it's the smaller- gauge black-blue wire that goes into the E6 (body harness) ECU plug.

I decided to go to the 62 ignition switch, and pulled the heavy black-blue wire that feeds it out of the
donor harness. It seemed prudent, as that wire doesn't draw a ton of current, but is going to be
kind of electrically noisy from the injectors and ignition. I've got an adaptor to the stock 60 harness
to feed it power from the 62 switch, and to get the extra 2 connections off of it.

You could also use a relay off the 60 harness, or even tie it to the one ignition circuit that the 60 has.
But that seemed like adding more to a circuit that's already pretty heavily loaded...

I'm also adding another circuit for accessories- the trailer brake, power to a compressor, etc, just because
I'm already running the wires- might as well do it only once.

hth

t

 

[willflow]

No I don't think I over simplified it. I used the 62 dash harness and the under hood harness and only tied in a few wires. It really was that simple to do the wiring. There are other things to be done yes but I stand by what I said. My dad's rig has been on the road for 9 months or so with no issues.

 

[Stumpalama]

I'm interested in the belt routing, specifically those that are running PS in the stock 60 location, smog pump, a York or Denso compressor (for A/c or OBA) and the alt (of course).

How did you make the idler/belt tensioner fit? Does one of them bolt up just like on the 3FE?

 

[pappy]

My install is in a FJ40. No smog pump or AC. Running the FJ60 alternator and PS. I used an idler pulley in the smog pump location for the PS. The alternator has its own tensioner.

At least, without standing in front of the truck, is what I remember.

 

[Stumpalama]

Mine is going into a 40 as well. I am curious since I will be running smog (though I'm not sure why I am compelled to) and a York or Denso compressor for OBA. I don't want to over think it, but I like to know what to expect.

 

[84pickup]

I've had mine in for coming on 3 years, "daily drive" it, it's been out for lots of trips between Manitoba and Calgary, has towed a tandom axle trailer and flat towed a FJ55 for long stretches, has gone down to Moab and had the piss wheeled out of it..... still works.

I remember looking through a few of your threads Doc, but for the life of me I can't remember what kind of mileage/power you said you ended up getting. Also I'm gonna be building my 2FE here soon I hope and I can't decide if I'm going to run a different cam with port and polish or not. I don't suppose you have any input?

 

[RockDoc]

I remember looking through a few of your threads Doc, but for the life of me I can't remember what kind of mileage/power you said you ended up getting. Also I'm gonna be building my 2FE here soon I hope and I can't decide if I'm going to run a different cam with port and polish or not. I don't suppose you have any input?

I'd say power is about 25-30% over the 3FE that was pulled. Mileage the same or slightly worse. Doing it again I would do a mild port job, the same Delta regrind on the cam, and skip the overbore of the throttle body.

 

[lubedude]

Well these last threads really peeked my interest again and maybe I need to have a close look at what everyone has been talking about in my absence... I will print this al off and study it with a fine tooth comb to see if I get any farther ahead. If I get lost i may be screaming for help.

Thanks in advance!!

 

[84pickup]

I'm right there with you. I've had the parts laying around to do mine for about a year now but no money to make any progress. I just came into a little bit of money that I can use to put towards getting the head checked and SBC valves put in and whatnot hopefully in the next week or two.

 

[enfield]

Any updates?

 

[RockDoc]

I have lubedude's 2FE now, he decided to go a different way with his 60. It will be going in my 55 project, but I've only done a dry fit to identify interference / clearance issues so far.

 

[enfield]

Glad it will find a good home eventually...