2F Rebuild - Where do I start?

[KY Longhunter]

If I am considering a rebuild of my 2F where do I start?

I know this is pretty ignorant question, but I honestly don't have much mechanic experience.

Motor and Tranny are currently out of frame.

Can anyone point me in right direction, and tell me where to source rebuild kit. I have spotted one here:

Land Cruiser Motor Rebuild Kit - 1F & 2F - JTOutfitters

Is $699 a fair price?

Where should I attack this thing first?

 

[matt.mcinnes]

First set a budget and then expect it to double.

Second decided what you want from your engine.

A good rebuild will and a well maintained engine will do 100,000's of miles all over again.

Must do's have the engine balanced when rebuilt. It will be better than new.

Have the crank cross drilled for better oiling.

Use OEM gaskets they are not much more expensive and far better quality.

Don't skimp a good engine rebuild will last longer than the original engine.

Hit search their is plenty of info out there.

 

[jimhendrixx]

Good Luck my brother!

 

[KY Longhunter]

More Info about my truck:

• I drove very little before pulling motor
• I did not check compression before pulling the motor
• It was running strong.

Should I just reinstall motor and drive it till more signs of needing overhaul?

 

[matt.mcinnes]

More Info about my truck:

• I drove very little before pulling motor
• I did not check compression before pulling the motor
• It was running strong.

Should I just reinstall motor and drive it till more signs of needing overhaul?

How many miles on the clock?

If your looking to keep this a life time then rebuild if not don't waste your money.

 

[KY Longhunter]

104,000 miles on Odometer now.

The plan is to keep it, but I have quite a bit of $$$ tied up in just the body restore.

I guess I should have considered this when I started.

My thoughts are to go ahead with rebuild of motor. After all the cost will only continue to go up.

 

[matt.mcinnes]

104,000 miles on Odometer now.

The plan is to keep it, but I have quite a bit of $$$ tied up in just the body restore.

I guess I should have considered this when I started.

My thoughts are to go ahead with rebuild of motor. After all the cost will only continue to go up.

If you rebuild it you know what you have in hand, 200,000 plus of reliability if maintained well.
Or the unknown always nagging away in the back of your mind while out on the trial. All depends on how far from home you intend to get.

Switch to electronic ignition too if not already done.

 

[Poser]

104,000 miles on Odometer now.

The plan is to keep it, but I have quite a bit of $$$ tied up in just the body restore.

I guess I should have considered this when I started.

My thoughts are to go ahead with rebuild of motor. After all the cost will only continue to go up.

It really comes down to the money you have for the project, the time you have for the project, the space you have available to work on it and your interest level in continuing to repair/rebuild the truck instead of operating it. Many people dig into these trucks thinking that they can tackle just about anything, only to get discouraged/overwhelmed and eventually loose interest, and then dump the project because of it taking up space.

 

[KY Longhunter]

Thanks Matt and Poser for your comments.

I'm gonna think on this one.

 

[calstyl2]

Does it need a rebuild or do you want to rebuild it, 100K is just broken in, my 2F got a rebuild after 278,000 miles in LA, 2300$

 

[bsmith123]

Engine is out

Sounds like you don't want to dig deeper in the pocket just yet, I hear ya!

Since the engine is out I would still go over it and see what's what

you can crank the engine outside the vehicle to do the compression check without too much problem
Also have a good look at the seals ---intake/exhaust manifold, side seal, rear main, oil pan, etc.
and since it is out it can get a good cleaning as well

The worse that can happen if you put it back in is it goes and you have to yank it again and heck your labor is free right?


Another way to go at it is buy another running 2f and install it and work on the original a bit at a time and when it's done swap it out and sell the motor you bought.

 

[malcb]

If you are doing the work yourself and the engine was going well when you pulled it I would put it back in and run it, get to know what the condition really is, ensure no nasty supprises, cracked head or block etc. You might end up pulling it in a few months time or it might be a year or more but when you do you will know much more about it and having taken it out once and put it back in you will find pulling it again much easier.

One thing I would look at before putting it back is the water pump, particularly if it's been sitting a while.

 

[tlc_4play]

If its been standing for a while also check the fuel pump

 

[Trollhole]

Get a compression checker and a buddy.

Stick a screwdriver down the carb to hold it open.

Get your batter and a set of jumper cables.

Get another screwdriver and engage the starter.

Starting at #1 cylinder what does it read after about 5 revolutions?

Write them down.

Post up.

If I had it out and compression was good I'd still probably yank the head and have it shaved as well as have the head magnafluxed and the valves redone.

If your compression is so so then I'd do a full rebuild. Don't buy from JT. You will hate yourself.

Buy OEM gaskets. Find a local club and join it. CDan will be your new friend. Also find a local engine parts business and start getting prices. Read the big gay (In my sig) build it will have most of the prices to compare to. I'd say I got some pretty good deals.

 

[D'Animal]

Generally it costs $300.00 just to line bore the block. That does not include boring the cylinders.

If you replace the pistons with over sized and machine the crank and replace the bearing, have the head rebuild, new water pump, etc. You could honestly easily spend $4K on the rebuild, unless you do the assembly yourself.

 

[KY Longhunter]

Thanks guys for all the advice. I think I'm going to chance putting motor back in. Worst case like someone said is I will have to over again down the road after I know the truck better.

Trollhole..your idea is good but would be relatively difficult as the intake/exhaust, carb, starter, fuel pump, water pump are all removed right now.

bsmith123....Compression check would be futile since I have the oil pan, side cover and valve cover off ...right????

I've already bought new gaskets for Intake/Exhaust manifold, Oil Pan, Timing Cover, Side Cover, Fuel pump, water pump, and valve cover plus new Rear Main Seal and Front seal.

What I didn't get was a head gasket.

I guess I could go ahead and order the water pump.

The Oil Pan is off right now. What can I do to inspect the Oil pump to make sure it is OK before I seal everything back up?

What else should I look for?

BTW...I have new headers and a Weber 38 I am planning on installing.

 

[D'Animal]

If I was doing everything you are doing. I would probably replace the freeze plugs / water jacket plugs, etc.

Don't forget the thermostat housing gasket.

 

[igotta40]

Add to the endless list to check the oil pan for rust. They tend to rust between pan and skidplate. Looking into the bottom of the pan, see if the sheet metal has swollen around the spot welds where the skid pan is attached, there should be about eight spot welds. And/ or set it on concrete and lightly tap the bottom with a hammer. If it deforms like it's aluminum foil it's probably rotted. Hopefully not.

I'll watch this thread and help if I can because I'm starting a 2F rebuild also. Good Luck

 

[Trollhole]

Thanks guys for all the advice. I think I'm going to chance putting motor back in. Worst case like someone said is I will have to over again down the road after I know the truck better.

Trollhole..your idea is good but would be relatively difficult as the intake/exhaust, carb, starter, fuel pump, water pump are all removed right now.

bsmith123....Compression check would be futile since I have the oil pan, side cover and valve cover off ...right????

I've already bought new gaskets for Intake/Exhaust manifold, Oil Pan, Timing Cover, Side Cover, Fuel pump, water pump, and valve cover plus new Rear Main Seal and Front seal.

What I didn't get was a head gasket.

I guess I could go ahead and order the water pump.

The Oil Pan is off right now. What can I do to inspect the Oil pump to make sure it is OK before I seal everything back up?

What else should I look for?

BTW...I have new headers and a Weber 38 I am planning on installing.

I'd get myself an FSM. Then check the oil pump specs. If good I'd just flib the gears. Though a new one is only around 75 dollars.

If you have the pan off I'd pull the caps and see what the bearings look like.

 

[Trollhole]

If your bearings look like this I'd replace.

If you can look up at your lifters and they look like this I'd do a rebuild.

If you can look into your cylinders from below and they look like this and feel scored I'd rebuild.

These are what I would do. I'm sure Jim, Steve, Mark and Grant have other opinions.