2F Rebuild - Where do I start?

[Sputnik40]

Agree with all Toyota gaskets and similar parts. When I did my rebuild (did it myself except for block and crank machining) took me about 4 weeks rushing to make GSMTR (blew it 6 weeks prior). My costs - about 8 years ago was $1,300 in parts/machine shop, with fact I used aftermarket .020 pistons. Everything else was Toyota. My cam and lifters were good. Only thing I'd have done different was consider an aftermarket cam - maybe pony up for brand new lifters, and shave the head a tad. Since adding FI and EI - it runs plenty strong enough - least past the point of sanity of running 80 mph on the I-State.

For as far along as you are - if you have the funds, I'd rebuild - the hardest part is getting the stupid timing cover backing plate gasket to seal properly (e.g. inch/lb torque settings done ever so gentely). The rest is easy - right Marshall

At 104,000 it really is just broke in - and might not need a rebuild BUT If you've got the side cover off - pull the valve cover and lifter assembly so as to get the lifters out and inspect - if clean, keep em (I have a thing for putting each item back where it came from - so much so that I stamp my connecting rods for rebuilds, etc.). Check bearings as Marshall suggested. Pull head and replace gasket so as to give you a chance to inspect cylinder wear and pistons. If the vehicle ever had a vacuum leak at the booster - you might find damage on the #4 piston top. Oil pumps are pretty reliable with that mileage. Water pump replacement - just do it. While inspecting the thermostat housing double check that there's not excessive corrosion inside - sometimes this happens and you have a very weak or future leak prone housing.

Definitely go HEI while in there!

Best of luck. Bill.

 

[Dirtsquirt]

I an wearing my asbesto suit.

Run it till it shows signs of becoming a problem
then replace it.

I am waiting with baited breath for my F to die.

I cant wait to stick a chevy 4.3 v6 in there.
Am gathering parts now.. have a sm420, a toy minitruck transfer case gear box (dual gear boxes) (toybox)and am surfing craigslist religously for donor vehicle with a low mile 4.3

gonna assemble it and leave it on the floor of the garage until my f
dies or or I cant stand having it sitting there and not using it.

in the end I will have a much more capable vehicle for far less than
a rebuild of the F

I guess what I am trying to say is "RUN IT" if you get to the point you think you need a rebuild.
there are options. other than sticking with the F and 2F.

 

[KY Longhunter]

Rear Main Pics

Ok, finally took some time to dissassemble bearings and take a look. Doesnt look too bad. First pic is of Crank. 2nd is bearing with what looks like a gouge but turned out to be a smudge of dried crud. 3rd pic is of bearing after I wiped "smudge" crud off.

 

[KY Longhunter]

2nd Bearing from Rear

More pics

 

[KY Longhunter]

3rd Bearing from Rear

more pics....Opinions?

 

[Pighead]

more pics....Opinions?

Run it.

 

[ken_79-fj40]

I would just run it. It's not too much of a headache to pull a motor from a 40 anyhow. But if it sat for a long time without running you might run into a situation like mine. My truck didn't run for 7 years before I bought it. I've been driving it fairly regularly for the last 7-8 years but it needs a rebuild bad at 103k miles. Mine's always burned oil but over the last 2 years I started noticing a little smoke and did some investigating. Compression is good at anywhere from 130-155psi per cylinder, pulls a steady 17hg of vacuum at idle, but a recent leak down test shows about 60 percent through the bottom end. It runs nice and smooth and has decent power, but it also burns about 2 quarts of oil every 500 miles and turns it completely black after a change in about 300 miles. The rings are shot. Surprisingly it doesn't smoke much at all.

 

[KY Longhunter]

If I was doing everything you are doing. I would probably replace the freeze plugs / water jacket plugs, etc.

Don't forget the thermostat housing gasket.

What exactly are water jacket plugs ???

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Hell, yes, just run it. these motors last a very long time and that one does not look worn at all in the pics you show. I can understand wanting to do a rebuild for the heck of it, but if you just want a running truck, you already have a motor for it!

As others have said, if it has a problem when you get it together, pulling the motor for a rebuild is at worst a 1/2 day job, so you aren't even out much time. If it would make you feel better, you could easily replace the rod bearings now and even the mains with just a bit more effort. I wouldn't even do that.

 

[snailwagon]

If it is running strong, why did you want to rebuild it?

Since more than likely this isn't any cylinder wall wear, if you were so inclined you could do a soft rebuild - get the head done, re ring, new bearings. But it would probably last longer if it was untouched.

 

[okie]

had to edit, just read the rest of the thread, your bearings and everything look great, run it. At the most i would have the top end overhauled and replace worn gaskets where needed and from the looks of it, you'll be driving it around for longer than you'll want to, lol.


good luck.