2F Nightmare Saga- Looking For Advice (1 Viewer)

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Hopefully you just have the trans/t/c angled wrong. I have in the past put a chain around the whole thing and laying on the floor on my back, head toward rear of truck, I got behind the trans put my feet on it and pulled on the chains gave me 4 points to move the trans/tc and helped to get the angle right. Of course a friend to help watch and guide. Ratchet straps probably easier. Just ratchet it down to a board mounted to a floor or trans jack Keep adjusting the angle until it goes.
 
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Spike Strip

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Whenever I do a project like this, I keep a clipboard on the dash with a sheet listing the steps I need to complete, the small details that can get easily overlooked when under time pressure, then check them off as they're done. Helps to not miss simple things that become big, later ... Just something that works for me.
 

gbogh

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@NeverGiveUpYota made dowels to align the bolt holes & input shaft/pilot bearing between the block & bell housing when marrying the two:
 

diesellibrarian

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Speed, horse power, fuel economy, modernization of actually being able to daily drive your rig everywhere with today’s current traffic and lifestyle.

No one wants an original truck, step one for a 2f is bore it out and do a desmog on it.

safe yourself countless dollars and headaches and weight

you can get a good running 350 for 500$ and an adapter kit for 600$ to get it in your rig. Your 2f rebuild will cost double that at a minimum.

Each to their own, of course, but I'm on Team Toyota here.

To me the whole point of owning a vintage Land Cruiser is to let "today's current traffic and lifestyle" whiz past me in their rush to get home to watch the Kardashians or whatever, while I chill at 55mph with a coffee and some soulful tunes, watching the landscape unfold. I'm anything but a romantic (ask my wife) but for me, that's what it's all about.
 

Seth S

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Each to their own, of course, but I'm on Team Toyota here.

To me the whole point of owning a vintage Land Cruiser is to let "today's current traffic and lifestyle" whiz past me in their rush to get home to watch the Kardashians or whatever, while I chill at 55mph with a coffee and some soulful tunes, watching the landscape unfold. I'm anything but a romantic (ask my wife) but for me, that's what it's all about.

I drive my 60 like grandfather. Though I wish for a 1fzfe for just a little more hill climbing power but staying with a Toyota 6.
 

tmxmotorsports

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I baby my 62 just got it inspected today i ut a whooping 1300 miles on it from last inspection date also turned over 160000 miles this year.i may put an h55 in it at some point just to make do ok in the mountains to go snowboarding.
 
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Update time! Engine and tranny are all mated up. It took longer than I would have liked but I moved on and started with accessories. I am hoping to be able to try to get her started tomorrow. Now to do some research on how to sort out the timing!

When all else fails, 2 ratchet straps connected at the back of the TC and hooked around the engine mounts. Tighten them at the same time putting equal pressure on the trans/TC from both sides. Wiggle and tighten.

I think a combination of this and luck did it for me. I had the tranny loosened and low with the straps set up. I decided to start with everything at the bottom and started bringing the tranny up and wiggling side to side. Luckily with this all set up and with my first side to side wiggle she took. I think the side to side movement is what did it. I wasn't able to get that movement before. Thanks @Skeet!

Hopefully you just have the trans/t/c angled wrong. I have in the past put a chain around the whole thing and laying on the floor on my back, head toward rear of truck, I got behind the trans put my feet on it and pulled on the chains gave me 4 points to move the trans/tc and helped to get the angle right. Of course a friend to help watch and guide. Ratchet straps probably easier. Just ratchet it down to a board mounted to a floor or trans lift. Keep adjusting the angle until it goes.

Thanks to @g-man as well, I think (as mentioned) the side to side did it.

Whenever I do a project like this, I keep a clipboard on the dash with a sheet listing the steps I need to complete, the small details that can get easily overlooked when under time pressure, then check them off as they're done. Helps to not miss simple things that become big, later ... Just something that works for me.

This is a good idea. Quick funny story.. I always forget to torque the wheels on my 911 when working on it. After one too many limps home with loose wheels I started putting a strip of blue painter's tape on the windshield with a "Torque Wheels!" note. I was doing something on my dads car for him, left the note. He had to run out and I hear him take off down the road. I had the torque wrench and I called him and said "Hey did you torque the wheels??" "..no" "Did you see my note??" "Yeah, I couldn't read it and pulled it off.."

I'm like you idiot!!! What, did you think that was just there for fun?? "Ahh I couldn't read it"

I can ship out the dowels if need be? We actually were moving so well as a team we forgot all about them. I have three.

All good! Got it but thanks I appreciate it.
 
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Timing is easy.

Find the small door pictured in 2-37 image on the bellhousing near the engine block behind the dizzy. Loosen the screw and turn it open ( or take it off). Pull and block the vacuum lines from the dizzy. warm up the motor. Find the timing mark on the flywheel put a timing light on it. Loosen the dizzy bolts. Turn the dizzy until the mark lines up with the bb on the housing (this should get you to 7 deg btdc. ) I found I had to dial mine past the bb to get things right. Maybe due to being partially desmogged.
1606226115211.png
 
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I am a bit late to the party so first of all, good work on the new motor - looks nice and clean, and glad you are getting it sorted.

For anyone reading this in years to come, my addition is to suggest that anyone wanting to replace their 2F could also go with the 3F motor, but not worry about the leccy bits. In other markets - Australia for instance - the 3F came with a carby, not injection, and it works just fine.
There is no reason why you couldn't get the 3F motor and fit it with a carby instead of the injection and associated electronics.
That is if the leccy bits are a concern for you.
And the 3FE is hardly a cutting edge injection system so you won't lose too much. Probably the biggest difference would be cold starting.

There are some differences between the 2F and 3F but not a huge amount.
I know that the rearranged the accessories, but not sure if that is a problem or not.

For us here in Oz the 3FE was never available in the 60 series, only the early model 80 series.

Mine is an early FJ62 with the carby 3F motor, and it is fine power wise.
Not quite as trucky as the 2F but not far off it, and it revs more freely at the top.
My Dad has a 2F so I do know the comparison to drive.

Just my 2c worth, and you are always welcome to give change! :rofl:
 
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Alllright, I am almost ready to start. I tried searching (my shop for leftover hoses and mud) for what goes on these two fittings.
What are they and what am I missing? This is a desmogged truck.

For the smaller outlet on the intake I do have a small hose that is plugged that will fit on there. I think that’s where it goes.

Any other help is appreciated!

386C5174-800E-4B1F-8ACE-B641639FD7F2.jpeg


image.jpg
 

Spike Strip

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That lead to the temp sensor seems sketchy. Might want to address now while easy. That ground in top pic needs good contact to engine and body or you could get some wonky electrical things happening.
 

DrRock

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Most are afraid of the swap and think they can save money going stock and why stick with it. unfortunately it’s not the case.

It’s never to late to give up on the 2f for more power fuel economy and spg’s

I’m more than glad to help him with the swap or anyone else on any landcruiser adventures.
Just to throw in another perspective:
It's ironic when some buy a Toyota for its reliability, then want to put in put in a V8 of questionable reliability which can come with a host of non factory installation risks, depending on the quality of the install. Personally, I don't want a frankenstien car which is cobbled together from multiple vendors etc. The common argument "I can find parts anywhere for the (insert your company here) V8" is not always correct, especially if one travels outside the US.

The factory inline 6 is an inherently balanced engine and works very well and with a few minor upgrades is extremely reliable. I've known of some in South Africa go 500k miles before a rebuild. It would be interesting to see if data supports a V8 going that distance with that low maintenance. The Toyota is also a very low stressed and overbuilt engine. I for one enjoy the torque and smooth power delivery of the stock engine along with the ease of routine maintenance.

Like I said, just another data point and the good news is we all have choices which we can make, based on our needs.
 
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Nightly update!

My last step was to fill with antifreeze. As I was filling I started to hear dreaded leaking. I figured I missed a hose (even though I triple checked) but I looked down to find the oil cooler leaking like a sieve! Had to swap it with the one off my old motor.

After I got everything buttoned up it was almost dinner time but I wanted to at least try to start her. She cranked and backfired from the carb a bunch so I decided to flip the distributer. The motor audibly turned "easier" from the flip but backfired just as much and if not a bit stronger.

Any ideas for tomorrow? Also, I did not have a hose for the PCV so I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it.

Thanks again everybody and Happy Thanksgiving! I am thankful for mud
 

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