2F Nightmare Saga- Looking For Advice (1 Viewer)

NeverGiveUpYota

Dare me.
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Jon!! I killed my jack stand with my 2f, turned that round hole to rotate into an egg and the motor fell out.
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.
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but here is the real question to anyone who removes their 2f from their rigs and rebuilds them... why? If your doing that much work why not put a rebuilt 350 in it for less than a 2f rebuild?
Because it’s about the allure, charm and one of a kind of the 2F. Anyone can have a John, Jason or Brian but to have a Casey, Dexter or Kalen... Idk, I am a girl w/ an original name and I like to think I’m one of a kind too so I chose to keep my truck as original as well.
 
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Because it’s about the allure, charm and one of a kind of the 2F. Anyone can have a John, Jason or Brian but to have a Casey, Dexter or Kalen... Idk, I am a girl w/ an original name and I like to think I’m one of a kind too so I chose to keep my truck as original as well.

Speed, horse power, fuel economy, modernization of actually being able to daily drive your rig everywhere with today’s current traffic and lifestyle.

No one wants an original truck, step one for a 2f is bore it out and do a desmog on it.

safe yourself countless dollars and headaches and weight

you can get a good running 350 for 500$ and an adapter kit for 600$ to get it in your rig. Your 2f rebuild will cost double that at a minimum.
 

NeverGiveUpYota

Dare me.
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Speed, horse power, fuel economy, modernization of actually being able to daily drive your rig everywhere with today’s current traffic and lifestyle.

No one wants an original truck, step one for a 2f is bore it out and do a desmog on it.

safe yourself countless dollars and headaches and weight

you can get a good running 350 for 500$ and an adapter kit for 600$ to get it in your rig. Your 2f rebuild will cost double that at a minimum.
Jeez, is that how you talk to all your ladies? Invalidation will only get you loneliness. Kudos, man, have a great day.
 
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Quick question, I searched a bunch of threads but didn't see anything.. What do we use to clean the manifold mating surface? Brakleen comes to mind first but I don't want to do anything stupid..

Thanks!
 

NeverGiveUpYota

Dare me.
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Quick question, I searched a bunch of threads but didn't see anything.. What do we use to clean the manifold mating surface? Brakleen comes to mind first but I don't want to do anything stupid..

Thanks!
Scotchbrite pads work. Brake clean has no lube in it. Some people use deisel or similar. If you want to clean the oy liter surface of the intake, EZ Off oven cleaner works like a charm. Don’t try to paint it tho, not much sticks well to aluminum. The exhaust can be painted but again, it’s hard to get paint to stick w/o proper curing. I had done the first two cycles in my oven inside and then hoped that heating on the truck would do the third but it gradually just goes back to the stock cast metal look anyhow.
 

NeverGiveUpYota

Dare me.
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Ladies? We’re all equals here.

just trying to spread my mistakes and save you the heartache and the money.

learn from others misfortunes
But again, this guy sought out another 2F. Why belittle his choices when it’s already done? Kudos to him. If he was still trying to make his choice, then would have been the time to offer up alternative suggestions but not now.
 
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But again, this guy sought out another 2F. Why belittle his choices when it’s already done? Kudos to him. If he was still trying to make his choice, then would have been the time to offer up alternative suggestions but not now.
Most are afraid of the swap and think they can save money going stock and why stick with it. unfortunately it’s not the case.

It’s never to late to give up on the 2f for more power fuel economy and spg’s

I’m more than glad to help him with the swap or anyone else on any landcruiser adventures.
 
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Manifold mating surface...uh can you get it machined?, Another reason to pull the head. Might as well get it to a head shop, magfluxed, and new valve seals. Order a head gasket kit from partsouq ...comes with the head gasket, valve stem seals, intake-exhaust gasket etc. Good time to tap out the oil galley plug and thread an allen head machine screw in there. Also get the intake and exhaust manifolds machined flat. If you start looking at threads about exhaust manifold leaks there is much discussion about getting this done to eliminate that frustration. the threads on the intake/exhaust studs look pretty rusty, prob should replace them.
 

Seth S

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Jon!! I killed my jack stand with my 2f, turned that round hole to rotate into an egg and the motor fell out.
.
.
.
but here is the real question to anyone who removes their 2f from their rigs and rebuilds them... why? If your doing that much work why not put a rebuilt 350 in it for less than a 2f rebuild?

$$$$
 
Joined
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Ontario - Canada
Speed, horse power, fuel economy, modernization of actually being able to daily drive your rig everywhere with today’s current traffic and lifestyle.

No one wants an original truck, step one for a 2f is bore it out and do a desmog on it.

safe yourself countless dollars and headaches and weight

you can get a good running 350 for 500$ and an adapter kit for 600$ to get it in your rig. Your 2f rebuild will cost double that at a minimum.

I want to hear more about the $600 adapter?
 
Joined
Apr 30, 2018
Messages
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New Jersey
Update! Motor is "in". Having trouble getting the transmission shaft into the pilot bearing. I knew I should have test fit the bearing but filed it away in my mind and totally forgot. I'm hoping I can give it a second try today without pulling everything back apart.

Then accessories and start!

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Spike Strip

Midnight Rider
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It's a LOT easier to R&R the engine with the Radiator Core Support removed and the condenser pushed off to the side (and supported). Just sayin'. It's only a handful of bolts ...

Also, be carful with that pilot bearing if it's difficult to stab the trans shaft. DON'T try and use the Transmission to Bellhousing bolts to 'pull it together' as some have snapped the BH ears off, then you're fk'd. It's also possible to force the shaft and damage Pilot bearing so when you've got the whole thing together, you suddenly hear a constant squeal...

You just have to pull the trans back and polish the nose of the shaft a bit with some emery cloth and perhaps a dab of light oil or anti seize.

Good luck!
 
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It's a LOT easier to R&R the engine with the Radiator Core Support removed and the condenser pushed off to the side (and supported). Just sayin'. It's only a couple of bolts ...

Also, be carful with that pilot bearing if it's difficult to stab the trans shaft. DON'T try and use the Transmission to Bellhousing bolts to 'pull it together' as some have snapped the BH ears off, then you're fk'd. It's also possible to force the shaft and damage Pilot bearing so when you've got the whole thing together, you suddenly hear a constant squeal...

You just have to pull the trans back and polish the nose of the shaft a bit with some emery cloth and perhaps a dab of light oil or anti seize.

Good luck!

Thanks! I am dealing with the pilot bearing now. I guess I will pull the trans back. Nothing else is working. Stay tuned
 

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