2f engine, pistons and head. (4 Viewers)

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New question. After verifying that my crank bearings and rod bearings are all ready to install, I was spraying carb cleaner through each oil hole in the block. I came across something that can't be right in my mind. The #2 cam bearing has two holes in it. One that goes between the crank and cam. The other should be going to the pump, correct? The PO said the motor ran fine but you can see in the pictures that the second hole is facing the block, not the oil pump line hole. It doesn't not look like the bearing has spun. This is installed incorrectly. Right? The motor is upside down in the pics but you can see the oil passages in the block.

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I am going to be following your work as I have to be doing this too.
 
Seems like I've confirmed that everything on the bearings are good. Last night the rings were installed on the pistons and the crank was installed in the block

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Seems like I've confirmed that everything on the bearings are good. Last night the rings were installed on the pistons and the crank was installed in the block
We need pictures. We are simple creatures, never mind it just didn't load up on my phone
 
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Pictures are good. Sometimes reality is bad. I was inspecting the cam shaft tonight and both tabs on the cam shaft thrust plate were cracked. They broke off easily. I've got a second 2f motor so it looks like I'll be robbing Peter to pay Paul.

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So I pulled the cam out of my other 2f so I could use the cam thrust plate on the new 2f. The donor motor was the one I rebuilt 25 years ago that the machine shop messed up. That cam was an aftermarket cam with oil holes in both the second and third bearings. The plate had about .025" of space between it and the timing gear. Way more than it should have. I noticed the c-clip on the outside was super thin but the one I took off the new 2f was thicker. The thicker clip fits the groove way better. I bought a new one but it is also thin. Did toyota use different thickness clips over the years with different gears?

After pressing both gears off both cams, the two plates are the same thickness but the broken plate off the new 2f cam has a much bigger ID and has oil grooves punched into it. The one from the old 2f has a smaller ID and no grooves. I'm assuming there's no issue using the one without grooves.

The scary thing I found was on my old 2f, the back surface of the timing gear was trashed. The plate wasn't scored but the gear is dead. Looks like I'll need a list of parts for the next rebuild. Luckily the gear from the new motor looks good.

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Anyone have any thoughts on the thin vs thick c-clip above? Seems like if I use the stock thin one, the gear will move and cause front to back slop in the timing gear. I have a new thin one from Spector but have an OEM one I need to pick up from Carl Malone Toyota. I don't know if that one is thick or thin.
 
Just did some quick digging. The clip is the same for 69-87 F/2F, part# 90520-29051. I should have some at the shop I could measure.

The plate was the same from 69-09/1980 (13571-60010) and then 10/1980+ (13571-61010). The cam gear was the same (13523-60030) that entire time. The cam itself had a few changes fwiw.

I wonder if the clip was part of an aftermarket cam?
 
I have a FJ60 2F cam in my pile of parts that has the thinner clip installed and I don’t see any evidence of movement. There is still clearance between the clip and the gear in the groove. Your picture shows a solid steel gear so that’s probably aftermarket.
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The engine is back on the frame. The herculiner in slowly coming out of the tub. I'm looking to the next steps and know I need to replace my clutch slave cylinder. I'm running a 1f bell housing, Chevy clutch disk and I think a 2f fly wheel with an sm420. Something in the back of my mind had me thinking I had to use a certain slave. Knowing how poor I was back then I assume I stuck with the stock 1976 slave. Any thoughts? I don't see any part numbers in the slave casting.

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The engine is back on the frame. The herculiner in slowly coming out of the tub. I'm looking to the next steps and know I need to replace my clutch slave cylinder. I'm running a 1f bell housing, Chevy clutch disk and I think a 2f fly wheel with an sm420. Something in the back of my mind had me thinking I had to use a certain slave. Knowing how poor I was back then I assume I stuck with the stock 1976 slave. Any thoughts? I don't see any part numbers in the slave casting.

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Seeing your progress gives me hope and motivation for mine
 
The engine is back on the frame. The herculiner in slowly coming out of the tub. I'm looking to the next steps and know I need to replace my clutch slave cylinder. I'm running a 1f bell housing, Chevy clutch disk and I think a 2f fly wheel with an sm420. Something in the back of my mind had me thinking I had to use a certain slave. Knowing how poor I was back then I assume I stuck with the stock 1976 slave. Any thoughts? I don't see any part numbers in the slave casting.

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I think the 3 mountain stamp(Aisin) in the slave indicates it is a stk slave. I use the later version stk clutch master and slaves on my SBC/NV4500 and SBC/SM420 FJ40's. I think cruiser outfitters descriptions differentiate between the yrs.
 
The engine is back on the frame. The herculiner in slowly coming out of the tub. I'm looking to the next steps and know I need to replace my clutch slave cylinder. I'm running a 1f bell housing, Chevy clutch disk and I think a 2f fly wheel with an sm420. Something in the back of my mind had me thinking I had to use a certain slave. Knowing how poor I was back then I assume I stuck with the stock 1976 slave. Any thoughts? I don't see any part numbers in the slave casting.

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Looks like the 76 version. You could measure the bore diameter & throw as well as hose fitting and bolt pattern to know for certain.

I suspect it's this:
 
Kurt, assuming the later years have larger bore & longer stroke ?
 
Looks like the 76 version. You could measure the bore diameter & throw as well as hose fitting and bolt pattern to know for certain.

Looks like the 76 version. You could measure the bore diameter & throw as well as hose fitting and bolt pattern to know for certain.

I suspect it's this:
I've got a list of brake hoses, the slave and a few other items I'll order and come grab next week. Slow but sure wins the race.
 
First off. @cruiseroutfit is awesome. Picked up the slave cylinder, tie rod ends and carb rebuild kit last week. We focused on the body work this weekend but installed the tie rods on as well. Maybe priming and painting this week. Maybe.

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Rough week moving my 30k ft factory to a new 150k ft facility, so not as much progress as I had hoped on the 40. Rapter lined under the tub so I can' get it back on the frame next week.

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Can I say I hate paint! I've rattle canned this rig for decades. Now it's time for real paint. I need opinions on single stage paint. Jones carries valspar and actually recommended thr TB550 industrial paint for dune Beige, $404 for a gallon of epoxy primer and a gallon of paint. Kwal carries sunfire pro, $1100 for a gallon of each. I can get Omni with epoxy for about $500. I need to paint this week. This is a trailer rig but I'd love to have a mid to high quality single stage that will last

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