2f engine, pistons and head.

[Grayscale]

The carb insulator that you show is not for a 2F. See item #2 - FJ40, FJ45, FJ55 and FJ60 Land Cruiser Carburetors, Parts, Kits & Gaskets - Specter Off-Road - https://www.sor.com/cat/042#tab1 Perhaps that is a problem with the linkage not being straight? Does the air cleaner assembly fit with the carburetor? Getting the proper insulator might also help get you get on track with the second return spring that fjc-man mentions.

 

[tltaylor22]

The carb insulator that you show is not for a 2F. See item #2 - FJ40, FJ45, FJ55 and FJ60 Land Cruiser Carburetors, Parts, Kits & Gaskets - Specter Off-Road - https://www.sor.com/cat/042#tab1 Perhaps that is a problem with the linkage not being straight? Does the air cleaner assembly fit with the carburetor? Getting the proper insulator might also help get you get on track with the second return spring that fjc-man mentions.

Looks like my spacer is a 69-74 F spacer. I have another one off of a mid 80's 2F as well with the 1/4" tube coming out of it. I've got everything hooked up other than the choke. I do need to get the second return spring going.

Currently I'm running that Amazon carb. I've struggled to get the air/Fuel mixture right. I don't seem to get much RPM movement on when turning the fuel mixture screw. I have a fuel/Air mixture sensor bung on the exhaust manifold. Has anyone used a digital fuel air meter to set the carb?

 

[charliemeyer007]

Which amazon carb? Do you have digital fuel air meter in mind?

 

[Grayscale]

I've used an A/F ratio readout. In my opinion, it doesn't belong on the Cruiser, either voltage issues or temperature conditions with the header might be the issue(s). For the older Cruisers, a tachometer, timing light, and vacuum gauge, and maybe compression test, is your ultimate way-finding to getting things dialed-in.

The idle mix screw shouldn't change much, depending on your idle speed setting, engine vacuum, and idle rpm. I'm at an elevation where the idle speed screw is set really high, the idle mix screw will make it run really bad when fully closed, because I'm pulling fuel from other passages. It is likely in need of a tune-up, as I've probably lost quite a bit of carbon congestion over time. I've worked on a Weber, and they keep you out of the dark by specifying how much you can open the throttle for your idle mix screw.

 

[pb4ugo]

If the idle mixture screw doesn't change anything, then the carb maybe getting fuel from somewhere else. You mentioned the need for a heavier return spring indicating the throttle butterflies may not be closing all the way. The idle mixture screws only effects the fuel mixture at idle. That adjustment can be made with a vacuum gauge or by ear/rpm drop. Fuel goes thru different circuits/ports in the carb when rpms are higher than idle.

 

[tltaylor22]

If the idle mixture screw doesn't change anything, then the carb maybe getting fuel from somewhere else. You mentioned the need for a heavier return spring indicating the throttle butterflies may not be closing all the way. The idle mixture screws only effects the fuel mixture at idle. That adjustment can be made with a vacuum gauge or by ear/rpm drop. Fuel goes thru different circuits/ports in the carb when rpms are higher than idle.

I was worried I was running super lean due to the idle mixture screw. I also seemed to be running hot. I didn't have a guage and the stock temp guage doesn't work. I threw a digital guage on it a week ago. Oddly it measure 104 before I start the motor. The temp gets as high as 197 around town. It climbs to 215 a few minutes after I shut her off. I'm thinking the guage if off by 10-15 right from the beginning.

Can anyone tell what year fan shroud I'm running? My clutched fan was trimmed down to fit it when I was a college student back in 1995. I have the stock 1987 fan but it won't fit in my shroud. It also hits my powersteering pump but I can move that to make the bigger fan work.

 

[mtn biker]

I was worried I was running super lean due to the idle mixture screw. I also seemed to be running hot. I didn't have a guage and the stock temp guage doesn't work. I threw a digital guage on it a week ago. Oddly it measure 104 before I start the motor. The temp gets as high as 197 around town. It climbs to 215 a few minutes after I shut her off. I'm thinking the guage if off by 10-15 right from the beginning.

Can anyone tell what year fan shroud I'm running? My clutched fan was trimmed down to fit it when I was a college student back in 1995. I have the stock 1987 fan but it won't fit in my shroud. It also hits my powersteering pump but I can move that to make the bigger fan work.

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I used to have that same temp gauge and I routinely found it to be almost 70° hotter. I have now switched to a temp sensor gauge hardwired combo. Now I need to get the engine running.

 

[tltaylor22]

Thanks @mtn biker . I probably need to switch the gauge.



So I had a rough experience getting up to Cruiserfest last weekend. I got stuck in traffic and she definitely got hot. Trying to get off the freeway was rough. I let her cool down a while and then could seem to get her of 30mph. She was vapor locking or having fuel issues and still got hot on the guage.



I installed a coolant overflow bottle this week in hopes of it just being a low coolant thing. Today I drove around town for 30 minutes. The temp guage got up to 187 for most of it but then climbed to 210. No fuel issue at high rpm this time but when I stopped and popped the hood, she was pushing coolant out of the overflow like old faithful.



Maybe fan clutch, water pump or thermostat? Even with the engine so hot, the fan clutch has very little resistance. The pump and thermostat came with the motor. The fan clutch came off my 76. I've got the later, red shifter pump but the fan blades are thick and hit my power steering. I may try to mount my blades on the other clutch? The clutch should be fairly firm at high temps, right?

 

[charliemeyer007]

More crap to go wrong - fan clutch is one I'd delete. Could be the thermostat more likely than the water pump. An accurate gauge is helpful. Could be a clogged radiator inside - rust, crud, too much stop leak, or lots of bent fins on the outside. Maybe the foil caps from the antifreeze got inside the system and are plugging ports.

If the coolant is full to the cork cold - then the system will push fluid out because of expansion when it gets warm. Ideally a proper working radiator cap lets the hot fluid out into the overflow tank, when the rig cools back down the cap allow the fluid to go back into the radiator. There needs to be a straw down to nearly the bottom of the overflow tank or it can't be pulled back in.

 

[tltaylor22]

More crap to go wrong - fan clutch is one I'd delete. Could be the thermostat more likely than the water pump. An accurate gauge is helpful. Could be a clogged radiator inside - rust, crud, too much stop leak, or lots of bent fins on the outside. Maybe the foil caps from the antifreeze got inside the system and are plugging ports.

If the coolant is full to the cork cold - then the system will push fluid out because of expansion when it gets warm. Ideally a proper working radiator cap lets the hot fluid out into the overflow tank, when the rig cools back down the cap allow the fluid to go back into the radiator. There needs to be a straw down to nearly the bottom of the overflow tank or it can't be pulled back in.

Thanks for all the good insights. I filled the radiator full and left about 3/4 of the overflow empty for expansion room. The expansion tank is a bottom feed so there isn't a need for a pickup tube. The radiator is a brand new OEM ffrom Toyota. It's way too pretty honestly.

I thought about deleting the fan clutch but I've always had pretty good luck with them.

 

[mtn biker]

Can you send me the fan shroud dimensions to get my fan to fit?

 

[cps432]

I apologize for jumping in randomly to ask this question and possibly hijack your thread for a minute.

Your build is looking really good! Very inspirational!

I’m rebuilding my 2F out of an 87 FJ60 currently and I need to address my valve seats. I’ve got almost 300K on the clock and they’ve been hammered out quite a bit. I’m have brand new valve guides and OEM Toyota valves I had sent over from Saudi.

There’s no way I’m lapping these new valve into these old seats and calling it good.

I’ve searched high and low and cannot find a source for Toyota valve seats or any aftermarket suppliers that have then in stock.

What was your solution to get those valves sealed up?

 

[tltaylor22]

I apologize for jumping in randomly to ask this question and possibly hijack your thread for a minute.

Your build is looking really good! Very inspirational!

I’m rebuilding my 2F out of an 87 FJ60 currently and I need to address my valve seats. I’ve got almost 300K on the clock and they’ve been hammered out quite a bit. I’m have brand new valve guides and OEM Toyota valves I had sent over from Saudi.

There’s no way I’m lapping these new valve into these old seats and calling it good.

I’ve searched high and low and cannot find a source for Toyota valve seats or any aftermarket suppliers that have then in stock.

What was your solution to get those valves sealed up?

On the previous engine(which threw a bearing after 20 minutes of running) I dropped the head off to a local reputable engine machine shop. I didn't have new valves but I gave them 2 full sets of old ones. The cut the valve seats and ground the valves. Normally I would have assembled everything but I just paid them to do it. They were awesome. The dip, surface cut and valve job ran about $400.

 

[tltaylor22]

I got home super late tonight (should have made it home 3 hrs ago to help Canguro Rqcing work on Monica). In the few minites i had, i just installed the red fan clutch tonight that came on the engine. I swapped the plastic fan to the one that fits with my shroud and power steering. I'm out of time but I'll check the thermostat this weekend.

 

[sggoat]

We've stripped the head to get it ready to take to the machine ship. This looks to be a 1986 head. I can get a head gasket kit with all the seals from Kurt at Cruiseroutfitters. I probably should pull the oil pan and all the gaskets on the motor and check things out. In that case, Kurt sells an engine overhaul kit for a 1981-92 2f. The motor I'm working with is a 75 or 76 2f. Remind me what the differences are to the 1981 2f that might affect the engine overhaul kit.

I'm also going to need some intakw and exhaust valve seats and possibly valves. Any good resources for those?

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OEM valves are still available from Toyota--just bought some last year(didn't need the seats so don't know about them)

 

[mrboatman]

@Pighead knows I think. I believe that he had the head redone with Chevy valves and I think seats not sure tho

 

[tltaylor22]

Alright, swapped the old (76?) Fan clutch for the red on that came on the engine. The only reason I had used the one off my original motor was that the blades had been trimmed to fit the shroud/radiator moving half an inch over when I did the scout power steering box. We'll, the red clutch is pushing a TON of air! The old clutch just wasn't locking up. I drove the same route as the other day when I overheated. I actually forgot there was a BYU football game so I got stuck in traffic for a bit.the temp hovered at 158 most of the time and climbed to 170 when stuck in traffic. I'm feeling pretty good about it so I'll hold off on doing the thermostat for a few more drives.