Builds 2F + (3F-E) = 2FETI Into My FJ40 (1 Viewer)

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Maybe I missed something in the thread, but what's with the mechanical fuel pump? :confused:
 
Maybe I missed something in the thread, but what's with the mechanical fuel pump? :confused:


I'm running a surge tank, rather than up grading all the fuel lines to suit high pressure. The only high pressure lines will be from the Surge tank to the fuel rail and from there to the fuel pressure regulator. The mechanical pump will supply the surge tank.

You missed something :D
 
Wooooohoooooo back in to it.

All the brackets apart from the water pump tensioner are 2F the water pump tensioner is from the 3FE.

Just have to make 2 new adjusters, one for the Alternator and one for the Air Con Pump and then all done and adjusted up
























 
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:steer:

Ok 2 new adjuster made for tensioning the alternator and air con pump fitted and all tensioned up ready to go:bounce:

Engine and gear box will all be back in by the 28th and Monday the 31st will see her off to MPC for the fabrication and fitting of the Turbo manifold and intercooler and ready the following Friday.

Starting to get excited:bounce:




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Matt stupid question no 1.

You are going to great lengths to get maximum power out of this thing, and it is destined for your soft-top comp vehicle...

...then why an Aircon Pump? :confused:


Air con pumps drained of liquid make great, belt driven air compressors:idea: and at $35 bucks each even running them dry and wearing them out ever 2 years is like the budgie says CHEEP:D You can add a grease nipple to make them last longer but at $35 every 2 years Pffft:D

With twin Ali air tanks I the rear it runs air tools and re inflates 35" tiers real quick.
It's is also the primary feed for running the ARB lockers, the ARB compressor is just a back up for comp. A one way vlave system means that the air con pump can fill the ARB compressor tank but the ARB can not fill the twin tanks as that would kill it.
The Twin air tanks also pressurize the bell housing when required as well as the winch motor and the Dizzy though this will no longer be required.

Also a note on Maximum power, this Truck maybe capable of making 400hp but we don't need that much but I want to be able to make 200hp+ at comp an know it's nowhere near braking point. Reliability is key.
We may however Dyno her up just to see what she's got, Scary.
 
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Air con pumps drained of liquid make great, belt driven air compressors:idea: and at $35 bucks each even running them dry and wearing them out ever 2 years is like the budgie says CHEEP:D You can add a grease nipple to make them last longer but at $35 every 2 years Pffft:D

With twin Ali air tanks I the rear it runs air tools and re inflates 35" tiers real quick.
It's is also the primary feed for running the ARB lockers, the ARB compressor is just a back up for comp. A one way vlave system means that the air con pump can fill the ARB compressor tank but the ARB can not fill the twin tanks as that would kill it.
The Twin air tanks also pressurize the bell housing when required as well as the winch motor and the Dizzy though this will no longer be required.

[PICTURE]

Also a note on Maximum power, this Truck maybe capable of making 400hp but we don't need that much but I want to be able to make 200hp+ at comp an know it's nowhere near braking point. Reliability is key.
We may however Dyno her up just to see what she's got, Scary.

Very interesting. I never thought of that. Do you think it is possible to use the stock 3FE air pump as a compressor? How will you regulate the pressure in the tank... just a valve? I guess a magnetic clutch could be used also... maybe.

Also I like that you are running A/C...
 
Very interesting. I never thought of that. Do you think it is possible to use the stock 3FE air pump as a compressor?

Also I like that you are running A/C...

Yes, mines a stock 2F air con pump and my guess is the 3FE is the same unit. Your in cab switch for the air con becomes the compressor switch :D

Only advice is go to the local pneumatics shop and get an inline water separator with auto drain. No huge expense I have one tucked away especially with it running the lockers.
 
Fitted the throttle body today but without the gasket as it will have to come back off once the turbo manifold and intercooler are mounted and piped up to finish of the wiring to the injectors.

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Same with the Dizzy just temporally fitted so the intercooler can be spaced and mounting brackets made.

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Need to make a new support too for the intake manifold too as the old one is a little short, bit like the 3F block:D Also you can see now why I had the extra holes drilled into the block where the bracket is bolted in.

 
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Yes, mines a stock 2F air con pump and my guess is the 3FE is the same unit. Your in cab switch for the air con becomes the compressor switch :D

Only advice is go to the local pneumatics shop and get an inline water separator with auto drain. No huge expense I have one tucked away especially with it running the lockers.

Maybe I'm missing something. What switch controls the air pump? The pump is continuously running. Are you using hte VSV and the ASV to control air flow?
 
Maybe I'm missing something. What switch controls the air pump? The pump is continuously running. Are you using hte VSV and the ASV to control air flow?


Good point I have a pressure switch for the compressor which is set to 110PSI which turns the air con pump on and off automatically once pressure is reached and the air tanks air full it cuts in at 90PSI. The ARB is 100PSI/80PSI. The first been higher so the ARB never runs unless the 1st fails. Also available at you local pneumatics shop.
 
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Good point I have a pressure switch for the compressor which is set to 110PSI which turns the air con pump on and off automatically once pressure is reached and the air tanks air full it cuts in at 90PSI. The ARB is 100PSI/80PSI. The first been higher so the ARB never runs unless the 1st fails. Also available at you local pneumatics shop.

Still confused. We are talking about the air injection pump, correct? There are no electrical connections on the pump. Are you controlling a valve, ie ASV, with the 110 psi switch? I just don't see how you can turn the pump off.
 
Still confused. We are talking about the air injection pump, correct? There are no electrical connections on the pump. Are you controlling a valve, ie ASV, with the 110 psi switch? I just don't see how you can turn the pump off.

Ok I see, you are talking about using the smog pump and I and talking about using the A/C pump. I have no smog pump or vacume stuff.

The air con pump has a magnetic clutch to engage and disengage the pump.

No you can't use a smog pump as you can't turn it on and off unless you can fit a magnetic clutch, interesting thought.
 
Ok, now I feel stupid. I will be using my A/C compressor fro A/C. (Air con was just confusing me :doh:)

But... could the smog pump be used if a valve were used to control pressure? It would be continuously working, but that wouldn't matter. Is it capable of producing 110 psi?
 
Ok, now I feel stupid. I will be using my A/C compressor fro A/C. (Air con was just confusing me :doh:)

But... could the smog pump be used if a valve were used to control pressure? It would be continuously working, but that wouldn't matter. Is it capable of producing 110 psi?

You maybe able to fit a magnetic clutch to a smog pump, you can easily remove one from an A/C pump. Like I said interesting thought.
As for the smog pump it really comes down to volume rather than pressure.

Matt
 
Ok, now I feel stupid. I will be using my A/C compressor fro A/C. (Air con was just confusing me :doh:)

But... could the smog pump be used if a valve were used to control pressure? It would be continuously working, but that wouldn't matter. Is it capable of producing 110 psi?


no.
 

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