285s to 315s, wish you hadn't?

[ryanjl]

It's not that I don't believe you, Kalawang, because you'd have no reason to lie about it.

I was just taking issue with how defensive you were getting about your ambiguity.

When we are asking for pictures at this point, it's because we are 99% certain there is still--even after you removed some of your aftermarket suspension components--a difference between your vehicle and an OEM one. The tires don't have to be rubbing in the picture; the differences could be seen with the vehicle at rest.

 

[landtank]

Kalawang, I thought that I'd post some pics of what you suggested as far as checking the distance between the tire and fender flares so you might better understand what we are talking about. My truck has a 2.5 Old Man Emu lift with no drop brackets and caster correction bushins instead. The first pic is the tire straight forward, 2nd pic is locked to the right and 3rd is locked to the left. This is with a 35" tire and you'll see that at it's worst there is still several inches of room between the tire and mud flap, far more space than any small movement of the leading arms might get from the rubber bushings.

I had asked where you were from because it would seem that what you have available and is considered normal is not the same as here in the USA.

 

[clownmidget]

To get back to the thread question, I went from the OEM Michelin's 275 tire size to BFG AT's in 285 when I had the med OME lift. I wish I would have gone from that directly to 37/17 MTRs. It's hard to keep up with the multitude of F350 superduties, Chevy Avalanches, and H2's on 40's (& bigger) out here in the heavy traffic of southern CA freeways...

 

[Kalawang]

Landtank,


Thank you for doing the experiment.

As you'll note from your pictures, at full lock, the tire does approach the rear of the fender, regardless that you are using 35" tires. Mine does the same whether I use my 35's or 33's. I think this common to most vehicles. Your third picture has a small shift in angle perspective, but my point that the tires move back and reduces the distance is effectively proven, or at the very least, demonstarted. It would be better demonstrated if your hand or fingers were there in the space, but it's visible regardless. The next step as to the rubber in the bushings softening enough to allow the wheel to be pushed back by a pothole or speedhump, provided the bolt is loose, is more difficult to demonstrate as at this moment I seem to be the only one who has such bushings.

Regardless of credibility issues, I don't feel the proving worth the effort. My experience to my own mind will not be common nor even a small minority. Thus even the knowing would not benefit any number of significance.

I'm content that I have solved my problem in a cost effective manner. I am content that I have shared my experience and rather overwhelmed that such a degree of interest was shown. I'm disinclined to go further with this.


Kalawang

 

[T Y L E R]

Just for something to do a few days ago at work I put FZJ80 and the like into google , and requested it ONLY return Japanese pages . On one of those pages , I think I saw some lowering brackets . Even with the translator it was difficult to make out . I think they were made for 4 to 8" lifts .. and came in appropriate sizes ...

I wonder if we can assume from this that part of the Asian market has access to this type of hardwear ?

TY

 

[landtank]

I'm content that I have solved my problem in a cost effective manner. I am content that I have shared my experience and rather overwhelmed that such a degree of interest was shown. I'm disinclined to go further with this.

That's fine, I just wanted you to understand why there was so much difference in opinion between yourself and the rest of us concerning the 33" remark about rubbing. I don't think I'm alone when I say that your truck is out of sorts with the rest and I'm concerned that it may be dangerous to drive to yourself and others on the receiving end of an out of control 80. Getting a cost effective solution so the vehicle ia able to drive isn't always the best thing to do as it is after all the suspension we are talking about.

drive safe


PS: in that shot where the tire is at the closest point to the mud flap there was about 2" of space. You would need to remove the bushing totally to get enough play for that tire to hit.

 

[wb1948]

To summarize this stuff. 285's are practical because they don't require regearing and movement of bumpstops. Thats it. Period. 315's are nice if you have a lift and regear and do the bumpstops. So that equals not as practical. Practicallity = money and use. Most can use 285's to get where 315's can go. So thats it end of story!

I don't think you really understand 80-series cruisers very well. You should read and learn a little more before you start making absolute statements like above. Regearing is not a necessity. Assuming you have a lift, the price of bump stops is well worth gaining another inch of axle clearance, and is very practical. Just be a little more humble with your statements.

 

[stuck in GA]

Alright i will. But just cause you can clear them and use them doesn't mean they are practical or good offroad. There is a fine line with the two. And i have definitly done my research because i had to cause i had to decide between the two when getting my tires. But thanks for the advice. Oh and i do understand 80 cruisers. Just not everything. But this subject I do.

 

[Beowulf]

And i have definitly done my research because i had to cause i had to decide between the two when getting my tires.

So why did you select 285/75R16 instead of 305/70R16?

-B-

 

[NorCalDoug]

ooooohhhhh, ooooooohhhhh, ooooooohhhhh...
I can answer that one...
call on me...call on me...

 

[Beowulf]

ooooohhhhh, ooooooohhhhh, ooooooohhhhh...
I can answer that one...
call on me...call on me...

In due time young fella, in due time.

-B-

 

[e9999]

can't bring myself to reread all of the above...
FWIW, I am (one of the few?) running 285s with a stock suspension, and I never saw any rubbing so far, even when I put the front on a "ramp" specifically to check that (although the tires may not have been fully turned, admittedly).
Short of it is that -given the collective wisdom of this august (?) body, I would check things out seriously if you experience rubbing the way you described it. It ain't fun to lose a front axle on the freeway...

 

[T Y L E R]

There's no possible way a stock 80 can clear anything but 265's ! Not without serious , serious mods being done to it ... like clear signals etc .

I vote to obliterate 80% of this thread . Pare it down to good info only ...

TY

 

[Darwood]

There's good info in this thread?

 

[firetruck41]

So why did you select 285/75R16 instead of 305/70R16?

-B-

In this current thread Stuck in GA indicates he would rather have 35s:

"...I know im going to go to the 35's once my 33's wear down."

:whoops:

 

[reffug]

Might need to warm that twit filter up -B-

 

[Tools R Us]

OK, back to opinion! I think 315/75R16's look good on stock trucks.

 

[TX_TLC]

And no rubbing issues during on road driving? So that is stock suspension and stock gears?

 

[Tools R Us]

All stock, no mud flaps, town driving only no rubbing, would rub the rear wheel wells if flexed. Won't make it through the day, an OME J setup is going on NOW!

 

[reffug]

an OME J setup is going on NOW!

Good for you dude, enjoy.