If the batteries are Diehard Platinum 31M, I'll guess that one or both are bad and could be the source of the problem. I've had lots of experince with those in many applications and can say are generally lousy batteries. They especially do not work well in vehicles because of the very basic charging system. Even with sophisticated chargers in non-vehicle applications, they sulphate easily and permanently, failing early. By all means get them tested.
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- Thread starter TioChachie
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My experience with the 31M has been far different. They are a deep cycle battery and require a different charging profile ie: 14.4 volts. My 2014 initially charges at 13.8 volts but has a temperature compensating factor that drops that to 13.2 volts as things warm up hence a potential issue. There are ways to trick the alt to put out 14.4 volts however.
My $0.02. A multi-tester will tell you if a battery is bad. It won't necessarily tell you that a battery is good. What I mean by that is if you drove for a while and the truck was fine, then left it overnight and it wouldn't start, when you put a multi-tester on your battery if it's not reading 12.2V+ either the battery bad or your alternator is not charging (which could be a bad alternator, bad voltage regulator, loose connector, etc). Also if you can get the truck to jump start the multi-tester will confirm that the battery is getting charged as it should read 13.8V (or more).
However just because the battery reads 12.7V doesn't mean it's actually a good battery. The reason is that chargers will leave a float charge on the battery, and you need to apply a load to remove it in order to test the actual battery strength. I bought a load tester for $20 off Amazon a few years ago to test my sump pump battery, though you could accomplish the same thing by turning on the headlights for a few minutes:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AMBOI0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It basically removes the float charge by dumping the load to a heat sink, at which point the voltage should stabilize. If it doesn't stabilize (or if it does but it's below 12V) then the battery needs to be replaced.
And as others have mentioned, AGM batteries require a higher charging voltage (both bulk and float) than flooded/wet cell batteries (and gelled batteries actually require a lower charging voltage). If you're using your alternator to charge a deep cycle AGM battery you're not getting the full benefit from your AGM and you're shortening its life.
http://www.centurybatteries.com.au/...alk/issue-2-battery-talk-battery-charging.pdf
However just because the battery reads 12.7V doesn't mean it's actually a good battery. The reason is that chargers will leave a float charge on the battery, and you need to apply a load to remove it in order to test the actual battery strength. I bought a load tester for $20 off Amazon a few years ago to test my sump pump battery, though you could accomplish the same thing by turning on the headlights for a few minutes:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AMBOI0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It basically removes the float charge by dumping the load to a heat sink, at which point the voltage should stabilize. If it doesn't stabilize (or if it does but it's below 12V) then the battery needs to be replaced.
And as others have mentioned, AGM batteries require a higher charging voltage (both bulk and float) than flooded/wet cell batteries (and gelled batteries actually require a lower charging voltage). If you're using your alternator to charge a deep cycle AGM battery you're not getting the full benefit from your AGM and you're shortening its life.
http://www.centurybatteries.com.au/...alk/issue-2-battery-talk-battery-charging.pdf
How does one "trick" their alternator into charging to 14.4V?
I haven't been able to gather any data just yet. They are going to leave the headlights on for about 5 minutes and then try to start it. I will post their findings once I hear back from them. Stay tuned gents.
I haven't been able to gather any data just yet. They are going to leave the headlights on for about 5 minutes and then try to start it. I will post their findings once I hear back from them. Stay tuned gents.
If not this then what else would suffice? Sears 2/10/40a charger once a month to 'top off'? Ctek (model number) once a week? Different product? Different frequency of charging cycles? Granted it depends on driving use, but any conventional wisdom for a group 31? Dual batteries?
Or is this fuse upgrade the end all, be all solution?
Or is this fuse upgrade the end all, be all solution?
Yup, that's the one I have in my 200. Once my replacement oil cooler comes in I'll get some pics showing the running voltage.
The diode will charge an AGM but it'll take a while and will only charge to a certain point depending on your battery type. I have an inverter/charger/switch combo hardwired into my 200. Before camping or every couple of weeks I'll plug in the unit to charge up my group 31 and my main battery. I hear the CTEK can work some magic for AGMs but I don't know. The method I use seems to suffice until I get a solar setup.
I'll tell ya... these AGM batteries sound like a giant PITA. Now I'm almost wishing I hadn't "upgraded".
But... I've had a Diehard Platinum AGM (Group 34) in my pickup for almost 3 years now, I've never done a thing except drive it. I have left it parked for 3-4 weeks at a time and it's always fired right up.
But... I've had a Diehard Platinum AGM (Group 34) in my pickup for almost 3 years now, I've never done a thing except drive it. I have left it parked for 3-4 weeks at a time and it's always fired right up.
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I used a similar product from HKB Ectronics from Aus. to up the charge for the starter battery and a CTEK 250S for a splitter, solar controler, charger for the house battery. The CTEK boosts the charge to 14.4 volts for the house battery FYI
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The only downside in comparison to other solutions is the lack of switch to combine the two batteries. This is easily overcome however by moving one of the wires on the unit which can be done without tools
To link the two batteries? Yeah, I haven't had to do this yet with my Redarc, but it can link the two batteries via switch. I figure if I REALLY want to link the two, I'll bust out the jumper cables.
After doing some reading I think I'll switch over to the 100A Off Road kit with the charger and a smaller inverter at some point. I want to move my 3000W inverter/charger/switch to the travel trailer I'm going to buy. Even for my camping power needs 3000W of inverter is way overkill for the 200.
So I guess be re-doing my wiring during the winter.
Hi TonyP, Just to make sure you knew this.....the ALT-S fuse that you pulled out of the 200 was a 5 amp. The diode/fuse that you put in from dirty parts is 7.5 amp meant for a 4Runner. The HKB mentioned above is a 5 amp and designed for the 200. HKB makes diodes for many makes and models. I don't know if the 7.5 amp diode you are using will effect the electrical system at all. I am not aware of the ramifications if there are any. I just wanted to make you aware if you did not know. 7.5 amp to me means it will allow everything...wires, connections, fusebox and alternator to get a little hotter.....just my guess.
Yup, good call in case anyone else is ordering one from that link. I forgot to mention that. I was aware of the amp difference at the time of ordering but I figured a 2.5A difference isn't a huge deal for the fairly robust wiring in the 200. Obviously it isn't intended for the 200 though. But neither is the diode itself
I haven't had any issues yet and I've had it in for a while, to include winching in Moab, driving through Breck and multiple local off-road trips. But anyone ordering one, be aware of the difference, otherwise go for the HBK one.
Markuson
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The CTEK was recommended to me by Joe at Slee and he is quite expert. It easily tops off my AGM type 31. I’ve had two incidents of a loose terminal connection resulting in a depleted main. Not good for the battery, of course, but I used the CTEk to recondition it and it was good to go again.
I have a small, permanently-wired plug that matches the CTEK...so I just plug it in. No jumper type clamps involved.
As for AGMs being a pain... Not at all. The extra charge just makes sure you take full advantage of the battery's full capacity.
I ran dual AGMs for a year before ever using a CTEK and never had a need of intervention...until the loose terminal issue—which was no fault to its AGM-ness...
I have a small, permanently-wired plug that matches the CTEK...so I just plug it in. No jumper type clamps involved.
As for AGMs being a pain... Not at all. The extra charge just makes sure you take full advantage of the battery's full capacity.
I ran dual AGMs for a year before ever using a CTEK and never had a need of intervention...until the loose terminal issue—which was no fault to its AGM-ness...
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Yup, good call in case anyone else is ordering one from that link. I forgot to mention that. I was aware of the amp difference at the time of ordering but I figured a 2.5A difference isn't a huge deal for the fairly robust wiring in the 200. Obviously it isn't intended for the 200 though. But neither is the diode itself
But neither is the diode itself
......yep, so true and that concerns me a little as well. I too am going to add solar power for places where I stay longer than 24 hours - Victron BlueSolar 75/15 MPPT controller and flexopower solar mats
But neither is the diode itself
Victron BlueSolar 75/15 MPPT controller and flexopower solar mats
This is one of the reasons I'm liking the CTEK since, apparently, it can bump alternator voltage in vehicles with a "variable/smart voltage alternator" to support AGMs. Then I can do away with the sketchy diode. I'll do more reading on it tomorrow.
Redarc also makes DC to DC chargers that can be configured by battery type.
