2013 won't start (1 Viewer)

[TioChachie]

hey everyone, i went out to start my 2013 this afternoon and it would not start. No clicking, no lights on the dash. Tried to jump it, nothing changed. I have changed my fob battery in the last year and i tried holding it ip to the start button. I had to leave on a camping trip so i took my tacoma instead and i will do some troubleshooting tomorrow. I haven't tested the battery and i didn't notice anything left on overnight. Yesterday i took it for a two hour drive before i parked it with no issues. Any helpful suggestions are welcome. I will check back in tomorrow once I'm back from camping. Thanks in advance to anyone who can share some knowledge

 

[TonyP]

Multimeter the battery.

 

[Markuson]

hey everyone, i went out to start my 2013 this afternoon and it would not start. No clicking, no lights on the dash. Tried to jump it, nothing changed. I have changed my fob battery in the last year and i tried holding it ip to the start button. I had to leave on a camping trip so i took my tacoma instead and i will do some troubleshooting tomorrow. I haven't tested the battery and i didn't notice anything left on overnight. Yesterday i took it for a two hour drive before i parked it with no issues. Any helpful suggestions are welcome. I will check back in tomorrow once I'm back from camping. Thanks in advance to anyone who can share some knowledge

What @TonyP said...and also...
-Check battery terminal connections.
I've received mine back from Toyota TWICE now with a loose connection.
They can look perfectly secured/tight and not be. If you can turn them at all, they are not tight enough.

 

[Workhorse]

Not to hijack so much as to help ask more questions...

My folk's (2008) 200 is/has experienced the same issues with no start leaving my father high and dry. Truck started to take him to his appointment and an hour or two later he has finished his appointment and goes to start the truck again and nothing, N-O-T-H-I-N-G. He's super nervous about taking the truck anywhere because he is now super worried about being stranded someplace (they live in rural Wyoming). It does have a dual battery management system that was installed by Slee through the previous owner. I can/will ask for the brand if there are known issues with certain brands.

I will have them do as Mark and Tony suggested first. How will we know if that is the actual cause of the no-start issues? What is the acceptable voltage (or voltage drop?) on the vehicle batteries with a multi-meter? Would a big-ish difference between the two be a smoking gun so to speak? I'm new to 200's and their electronics and issues of said and am trying to help my mother and father sort this out. I appreciate any help you're able to give the OP as well as me.

Thank you in advance and apologies for a pseudo hijack.

 

[Markuson]

For your dad too... Check terminals are TIGHT.

 

[KLF]

Putting a meter on the battery isn't a useful test IMO. We were having trouble with our IS starting last week, I would put it on the trickle charger all day, then the next day get in and hit the button, nothing. This was the factory battery, terminals were tight and clean. My meter said 12.5 volts. I pulled the battery out and took it to a place where they did a load test, ya it was fubar. New battery and it's fine now.

But I'm thinking if a jump to another vehicle didn't help, something else is wrong. Bad grounds?

 

[TonyP]

Yes, removing the battery and taking it to an auto parts store is far easier than a 10 second multimeter voltage and grounding test...

If you left it on a charger all night and it was still only 12.5v that might have been an indicator of a bad battery, depending on the battery specs.

 

[KLF]

And I did all that and it passed with flying colors, but the car still wouldn't start.

 

[Markuson]

And I did all that and it passed with flying colors, but the car still wouldn't start.

No power at all!?
Or just no start?

 

[KLF]

Starter would engage but not have enough guts to spin the engine. Then just get clicks.

My point was that you really need a load tester to check battery health.

 

[Markuson]

Starter would engage but not have enough guts to spin the engine. Then just get clicks.

My point was that you really need a load tester to check battery health.

If it passed all those test with flying colors, and starting is still a no-go...then I'm guessing you've reached the notorious starter failure. We all get there. -Mine got there about 6 months ago at about 85K miles.

 

[KLF]

No... The starter is fine, the car looks essentially brand new. This is our '13 IS250C. New battery and it's good as new now.

Although it pissed me off that we paid extra to get a CPO car, but the warranty wouldn't cover the battery.

 

[Workhorse]

Update:

Their truck has an IBS battery management system and the batteries are Die Hard Platinum 205RC 31M5013-1(-5 pssgr side) 1150 CCA but we can't see the date of mfr.

They want to stress test the batteries at the local auto parts store (as well as check the terminal connections). Can this be done with both batteries hooked up still in the truck? Or do we need to remove them and stress test them individually? I will post results when I have them to share our findings.

Thank you for the input so far gentlemen.

 

[stridertexas]

If the car won’t start reliably I’d remove them to have them stress tested.

Stress tests are more work than a multimeter test but you’ll see the true life of the battery.

 

[Markuson]

Update:

Their truck has an IBS battery management system and the batteries are Die Hard Platinum 205RC 31M5013-1(-5 pssgr side) 1150 CCA but we can't see the date of mfr.

They want to stress test the batteries at the local auto parts store (as well as check the terminal connections). Can this be done with both batteries hooked up still in the truck? Or do we need to remove them and stress test them individually? I will post results when I have them to share our findings.

Thank you for the input so far gentlemen.

J

Ah! IBS introduces some other possible causes... I have the same setup.

First, press the power check button on the IBS unit.
If it shows low power on the main but power on the 2nd battery... Press the LINK button.
This will allow the 2nd battery to power the vehicle, and usually means either your main totally died, or--more likely--has a terminal that is a little loose.
So if you have power on battery 2... when both batteries are connected, press the link button and see if it starts up.

If you can start after pressing link...again, check that your main battery terminals are super tight (as in, you can't grab and turn them AT ALL, as this would typically indicate that the main battery terminals were loose.

If you have good voltage on both batteries and it still won't start...or you have NO lights on the IBS control unit...disconnect both batteries for several minutes, then reconnect them.
This may reset your IBS battery controller. Now reconnect batteries TIGHTLY and try again.

 

[TonyP]

If he tried jumping the main and it still wouldn't start, that should be about the same as linking the two via the IBS, I assume it's the same at least.

If it started after being jumped then died when removing the jumper cables I'd assume the battery is done. Same thing happened to my E24 last spring (a cell busted open and actually cracked the battery case). The car would start but die as the dead battery ate up all the sauce from the alternator.

Edit: Yeah try Mark's revised post's idea. That's a good place to start.

 

[Markuson]

**See my REVISED post two posts up. (I typed it on my phone originally, but it was messed up. Rewrote it a minute ago)

I mention the reset on the IBS because I had to do that once before...even with good batteries (after tightening the main connection and charging the batteries).

 

[Workhorse]

Gentlemen-

Thank you for the information, it is extremely helpful and appreciated. I will let them know where we begin and test each and every options you've listed above. I will post results, although it will take several days to do so.

Thank you again for all of your help and input.

 

[RET2]

What about backing way here and start from the beginning of the equation? Disconnect the line to the IBS, turn on headlights, are they normal brightness? Then try to start vehicle and see if lights dim substantially? If not probably bad main battery. Wouldn't hurt to check alt. output when it does start.

 

[Markuson]

What type of main battery is the problematic truck using?

I ask because some batteries need periodic charging at a rate that is slightly different from what the battery gets from normal charging during use. I have a CTTK charger that I periodically connect to my main, and almost without exception, there is some capacity that is lacking when I first plug it in.