2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement (18 Viewers)

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I shoulda read all 85 pages

Yes, I stand corrected. They fixed it in all new trucks and the replacement radiators in LATE 2018. If the tag on top is flush with the radiator at the top it is the bad old radiator. If it is flush more towards the middle of the sides (like your picture) it is a good radiator.
 
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Yes, I stand corrected. They fixed it in all new trucks and the replacement radiators in 2018. If the tag on top is flush with the radiator at the top it is the bad old radiator. If it is flush more towards the middle of the sides (like your picture) it is a good radiator.
No. Not all of 2018. Later build dates only in the 2018 M/Y and onward.
 
I did this, and am also monitoring. Crack wasn't through the wall yet.

View attachment 3349449

After cleaning it up I could not find any cracks, guessing the spray was from the last top off. Either way I did the JB Weld/Patch/JB Weld and will monitor accordingly.

IMG_7110.jpeg
 
Reading through the thread it seems as if basic JB Weld was the preferred patch.
Possibly. I read threads across the internet and saw various opinions on what product to use. The temperature rating isn't as high for what I used but the radiator temperature band is under the limits of the plastic bond. Obviously the best solution is to simply replace the radiator, but I was willing to experiment.

Based on the various materials listed on the back of the plastic bonder I had some good confidence in the adhesion properties. I was very meticulous with the installation of the patch.

It will be a good test case for this product.
 
I used camelback toyota and ordered online. I wanted to use all oem parts. There prices are decent and have quick shipping to CA. Here’s my order list minus the thermostat housing gasket.

View attachment 2257007
Ordered all these parts. I guess I also need OEM radiator fluid, hose clamps, etc?
PS: I was required to provide my VIN for the radiator (p/n 16400 50384).

For context, I JB-welded a developing crack on the radiator a few months ago. It's holding just fine, but I want to be able to travel cross-country in our LX without worrying about any of this stuff.
 
Ordered all these parts. I guess I also need OEM radiator fluid, hose clamps, etc?
PS: I was required to provide my VIN for the radiator (p/n 16400 50384).

For context, I JB-welded a developing crack on the radiator a few months ago. It's holding just fine, but I want to be able to travel cross-country in our LX without worrying about any of this stuff.

I once fixed a giant crevasse of a crack in a buddies 100-series radiator with JB Weld. A 12" crack that opened up 1/8" in spots after some serious flexing off-road in 100*F heat. It held for the mountainous drive home and many days after until the new radiator came in.

Just saying that JBWeld maybe all the insurance you need if you're in a pinch to getting the radiator replaced. I keep a tube in my emergency kit.
 
Ordered all these parts. I guess I also need OEM radiator fluid, hose clamps, etc?
PS: I was required to provide my VIN for the radiator (p/n 16400 50384).

For context, I JB-welded a developing crack on the radiator a few months ago. It's holding just fine, but I want to be able to travel cross-country in our LX without worrying about any of this stuff.
You will lose a small amount of ATF also with the integrated cooler. I never could find an answer as to how much.
 
Has Toyota admitted to making a bad radiator in the early 200’s? Didn’t read all the pages but wondering if a recall has been talked about…?
 
Has Toyota admitted to making a bad radiator in the early 200’s? Didn’t read all the pages but wondering if a recall has been talked about…?
No recall. Some owners with a long history of toyota ownership, and owning their 200 from new, have received differing levels of compensation from toyota corporate. But that intervention is very rare.

Beyond the part changing appearance seemingly in a way that will help, there has been no official confirmation of this issue from toyota.
 
There's not going to be a recall for a part that lasts over 100k miles.
 
Just wrapped up the radiator swap this weekend (plus water pump, thermostat, fan support bracket and fan clutch, etc... - the fan support being the worst of it because of the hardline you need to move to access one of the bolts which takes removing a bracket bolt by the AC compressor pulley with hardly any access. Unless you want to unbolt your compressor, which isn't necessary if you have some patience).

I had a stress crack and patched it with JB weld last year (2013, 100k miles) but WP and other bits were due, so I made a party of it.

Some of the radiator replacement YT videos posted here mention removing one or both of the black side mounting brackets from the radiator, presumably so you can skip the lower radiator mounting bolts that require long extensions to reach, but I just kept both of them mounted. Lower rad bolts are accessible just fine if you have enough extensions and a telescoping magnet tool to fish out the bolts once they are unthreaded.
 
Lower rad bolts are accessible just fine if you have enough extensions and a telescoping magnet tool to fish out the bolts once they are unthreaded.
This is true for most configurations but some years of LX legitimately block the lower hole.. someone could probably reach up through the gap made by removal of the splash guards but would be going blind.
 

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