teejnut
SILVER Star
Never knew partsouq had the diagrams! The hose definitely looks longer. I'll see if I can hold off for a few days on finishing... Will call Monday to see if dealers have it in stock or can get it quick.
2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter jclarke450
- Start date
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Yeah their diagrams aren‘t always intuitive to find / located where you would imagine them to be, but it’s super helpful to be able to look at a diagram with the part number AND also have the ability to see a picture of the part.
teejnut
SILVER Star
If anyone is wondering about the Aisin water pump, thermostat, and fan bracket they look identical to OEM. The water pump has the Toyota shaved off. The fan bracket has the same NSK marked bearings. The thermostat has the Toyota shaved off.
No pic of the fan clutch but OEM is stamped with Aisin and looks identical to the Aisin one from Rock Auto.
No pic of the fan clutch but OEM is stamped with Aisin and looks identical to the Aisin one from Rock Auto.
That’s funny how you can obviously tell they were ground off and can even see the “A” left over on the water pump.
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I got to ask a question that will likely show my ignorance and make people cringe.
I got lucky and noticed the outer quarter edge of the serpentine belt is cut and my belt is 75% the width it should be.
I need to go 6 miles to the mechanic. I'll be ok if I'm cautious...right? Any takers?
I got lucky and noticed the outer quarter edge of the serpentine belt is cut and my belt is 75% the width it should be.
I need to go 6 miles to the mechanic. I'll be ok if I'm cautious...right? Any takers?
bloc
SILVER Star
If nothing is hanging off and flapping around, be CRITICALLY aware of your water temp and any other odd behavior/noises, keep RPMs down.
With those conditions I'd drive it, personally.
teejnut
SILVER Star
Regarding 99556-20200 the picture from Partsouq is correct. It's a lot longer then the original part but I can cut it so not a big deal. Since its just a straight hose would Toyota just produce a generic length one to be cut?
I bought a 1/2" ID heater hose from Autozone over the weekend to see. The generic heater hose is slightly smaller in OD vs. the OEM piece. So I guess that could cause problems with the OEM clamps? I'm not using it but just wanted to compare. Also, the OEM seems to have more threads as well.
Left is original by-pass hose from thermostat housing to the pipes that lead the coolant to the oil filter housing.
Middle is 99556-20200
Right is Continental 1/2" ID heater hose from Autozone.
I bought a 1/2" ID heater hose from Autozone over the weekend to see. The generic heater hose is slightly smaller in OD vs. the OEM piece. So I guess that could cause problems with the OEM clamps? I'm not using it but just wanted to compare. Also, the OEM seems to have more threads as well.
Left is original by-pass hose from thermostat housing to the pipes that lead the coolant to the oil filter housing.
Middle is 99556-20200
Right is Continental 1/2" ID heater hose from Autozone.
Has anyone tried the complete Aluminum built radiators from EBay? It seems that all the ones busting and breaking are the plastic ones.
The new ones addressed the weakness. Who makes these and what is their QC?
ABC autoparts in California
Was reading some jeep forums which has the same issue of radiators breaking, they suggested going with the full metal ones.
bloc
SILVER Star
That radiator may outlast most things on a jeep. Bit of a different story with a LandCruiser.
Jomama
Lucideye
Oops wrong thread
kcjaz
SILVER Star
I went on this same adventure and got the OEM hose that had to be cut. The parts guy told me that hose goes on multiple vehicles in multiple locations and some require cutting.
DuckNinja93
SILVER Star
QUESTION: What is the best order to replace parts associated to this repair? AND - is it easiest to just remove the front bumper facade and grill as recommended by Toyota? I see videos of folks cramming in there - seems easier to follow the manual. See notes below:
2013 LC200 and I just joined the cracked radiator club. Anyways, since I have over 100K - going to do the comprehensive replacement: Radiator, Thermostat, Water Pump, Fan Bracket, Fluid coupling assembly, serpentine belt (tensioner and pully), and all the respective hoses folks have outlined in this thread. Anyways, reviewing manual and this thread and can't easily find a post where the easiest order of operations for replacement is outlined - so seeking input. Like once I remove the radiator - what should I attack first?
Uh, this is my first time doing this procedure, so all about tips/tricks/etc?
bloc
SILVER Star
No need to remove the bumper skin. Many models you can pass a socket and extension right through, for others the hole is blocked by the ATF cooler and you'll need to go in through the grill opening at the top or bottom.
Order of ops is roughly drain it, remove the top hose, remove the shroud and fan as a pair, get the radiator out, then attack all the stuff on the front of the engine. I hesitate to do a detailed step-by-step because I'll inevitably miss things.. and for the most part if you plan to do the work yourself I'm assuming you have some ability to strategically plan things once you are staring at it wrench in hand.
The fan bracket is the trickiest part with a couple of the bolts being obscured by a metal cooling line, but a couple methods of dealing with this have been posted.
DuckNinja93
SILVER Star
Good copy! Thanks for insight on Front Bumper Skin and Grill. I'll definitely look up details for Fan Bracket. I wasn't sure about completely draining as it seems some folks avoided that step. I'm comfortable with working out a strategy for the front engine stuff - sometimes that can be dictated w/ whatever is friendly to remove. I also have a paper manual (for up to 2010) - have been looking through that to sort out order of operations, but wanted some insight.
I'm waiting for parts to show up (predominantly OEM), but getting an attack plan sorted out now. Thanks!
bloc
SILVER Star
Any time.
At 100k with an opened system you might as well dump the coolant and refill with new. And the block drains aren't super difficult.. passenger side is easy, driver's side more tricky but if you know what to look for from the pass side you'll figure it out. 10mm fwiw.
Note that flushing with water is often discouraged because it is so hard to get the now-diluted coolant out of the rear heater lines and core that you inevitably raise your freeze protection temp. Replacing what's in the block and radiator will mean 90% of the fluid is new.. good for another 100k.
~116,000 miles here on what looks like original radiator.
Degreased the engine bay this weekend. No sign of hairline crack yet, but considering doing this job, the water pump and other miscellaneous parts, fluids that will be accessible at the same time as part of perhaps the 120,000 service or some aftermarket work I am planning on having done soon (ARB Twin, Switch Pros, new battery, etc.).
Degreased the engine bay this weekend. No sign of hairline crack yet, but considering doing this job, the water pump and other miscellaneous parts, fluids that will be accessible at the same time as part of perhaps the 120,000 service or some aftermarket work I am planning on having done soon (ARB Twin, Switch Pros, new battery, etc.).
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Another one bites the dust. 2013 w/95k miles on it. No idea when it blew, but it went on a 2hr roundtrip a few towns away just yesterday and no issues or coolant smells when it got home and was parked in the garage. Took it to Toyota for an oil change and when they popped the hood they discovered this. The tech mentioned that if the radiator is shocked with cold water suddenly (submersion, water hose, etc.), it could potentially cause this. Not sure how likely that sounds but it was what I was told. Getting a new radiator overnighted out of Dallas and they comped a '22 Highlander to drive for the week. This thread is 71pgs long, how the hell is this not a recall or TSB by now??
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bloc
SILVER Star
Answer: it doesn’t happen until almost 100k for most people, after many original buyers have sold the truck. To toyota this means simply update the part and carry on.
If you owned the vehicle from new some people have had luck getting Toyota corporate to cover part of the cost. Just an idea.
