2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement (9 Viewers)

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Ok, let the trolling begin. Showing my noob stripes here but I guess the only way to learn is to try, right?

For some reason, I thought the water pump was near the bottom of the engine so when I saw the coolant near the top, I immediately panicked and thought about the valley leak. Once I took everything off I realized that it was indeed the water pump. After repeated slaps to the head, I proceeded to replace it, along with everything else on the list (radiator, fan bracket, fan clutch, tensioner, idler, serpentine belt), and got every buttoned back up. I'll keep an eye on it but I think I'm good to go. Even though I'm thoroughly embarrassed, I'm also feeling very good about myself for getting the job done with the immense help of two other 200 series owners (@TN LX570 and @NHouston ). Altogether, spent about 9 hours on the job but that was partially due to having to move my bumper-mounted air compressor to get to the hole for the radiator and our desire to go slow. Would go significantly faster the second time around, when my buddies need to do theirs.

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No trolling, just a happy ending. (See what I did there?)
 
Ok, let the trolling begin. Showing my noob stripes here but I guess the only way to learn is to try, right?

For some reason, I thought the water pump was near the bottom of the engine so when I saw the coolant near the top, I immediately panicked and thought about the valley leak. Once I took everything off I realized that it was indeed the water pump. After repeated slaps to the head, I proceeded to replace it, along with everything else on the list (radiator, fan bracket, fan clutch, tensioner, idler, serpentine belt), and got every buttoned back up. I'll keep an eye on it but I think I'm good to go. Even though I'm thoroughly embarrassed, I'm also feeling very good about myself for getting the job done with the immense help of two other 200 series owners (@TN LX570 and @NHouston ). Altogether, spent about 9 hours on the job but that was partially due to having to move my bumper-mounted air compressor to get to the hole for the radiator and our desire to go slow. Would go significantly faster the second time around, when my buddies need to do theirs.
Don't feel bad about 9 hours. That's not too bad. I have no idea how long in hours that same job (also did alt and PS pump) took me last winter but its easily 3x. I spent forever on it. I had parts in and out of that thing more then once and it was a lot of 3 steps foreword and 2 back. Learned a ton. Mostly that with the FSM, Mud, and patients, you can tackle almost anything DYI.
 
29,000. Will have to keep a close eye on it. Is there an average mileage for the crack to form?
I'd say average is 90-100 or so. Rare reports of early crack in the 60k range, it seems a few others go past 120. I'd bet use case impacts lifespan.. city vs freeway driving, towing, heat cycling, ambient temps, etc.

You have many good years before you need to worry about it, plus it is very progressive when it happens and will give you lots of warning if you are checking it periodically.
 
Just crack my radiator at 129k. Anyone found a replacement over the OEM rad? Anyone tried koyo rad?
The OE rad was updated to address the fault, and is most likely the highest quality unit you can get. Also not very expensive from the discount dealer sites.

Personally I'd just go OEM.
 
Thank you! Any recommendation where to get it online for cheap?

I use Find Toyota Parts at Discount Toyota Parts - AutoNation Toyota South Austin - https://parts.autonationtoyotasouthaustin.com but partly because they are close to me and I can avoid shipping. Their prices are quite good though.

There is also this thread: Best online place to buy replacement parts? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/best-online-place-to-buy-replacement-parts.1249100/
And a few others like it over the years.

Note that if you have an LX you can order the LC part of the same year and save some money.. they are the exact same, other than a significant markup when you say you are buying it for a Lexus. Also, with those miles you might consider doing the water pump, thermostat, tensioner and idler pullies, etc since you will already be in there. Lots of discussion on doing all of that together in this section of the forum.
 
Another member here posted about Toyota of south Atlanta. They have excellent prices and had free shipping when I used them last. Saved me nearly 50% over going to my local dealer. Picked up a spare starter and alternator a few weeks back. FYI Shipping and handling of radiators has been questionable from multiple online dealerships, folks here have complained about minor damage to the radiator fins during shipping. I purchased mine a couple years ago from camelback Toyota and it’s the new design radiator and arrived in good condition but the box was damaged.

 
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Another member here posted about Toyota of south Atlanta. They have excellent prices and had free shipping when I used them last. Saved me nearly 50% over going to my local dealer. Picked up a spare starter and alternator a few weeks back. FYI Shipping and handling of radiators has been questionable from multiple online dealerships, folks here have complained about minor damage to the radiator fins during shipping. I purchased mine a couple years ago from camelback Toyota and it’s the new design radiator and arrived in good condition but the box was damaged.

A couple people have had invisible cracks in the lower tank as well. Definitely inspect any shipped radiators and the condition of the packaging thoroughly.
 
Replaced the radiator this past weekend after finding some pink residue dried around the area below the stamped plate and low coolant in the reservoir. Found the crack extending a good bit beyond the plate and was lucky I made it back from a recent ski trip without any issue. My 2009 LX570 has ~120K miles at time of failure and replaced with part number 16400-50384. Whole process took about 3-4hrs and was definitely a very tight fit to remove/replace but relieved to have the new unit in and working. Noticed that one of the bolts for the passenger side plastic mount was missing as well as just about half the bolts for the flimsy but surprisingly heavy OEM skid plate. I think this is a sign that I need to order a new set of aluminum skid plates from BB. Here's a pic of the new radiator name plate that I received.

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Noticed today radiator crack in typical location. Local Toyota Dealer said it would take 5 days for new radiator to arrive. Has anyone had success using plastic welding to repair typical crack in the plastic top cap? I used a Polyvance plastic welding iron and material to melt the crack line and then apply fresh melted plastic on top to reinforce. Drove the truck around the block and has been idling for 20 minutes. Bone dry following this plastic welding repair. Still will have new radiator installed when it arrives but curious to see if this provides temporary fix. This Polyvance system is great BTW for repairing cracked dash pads. Bought this iron and welding material to restore a cracked dash on the FJ60.
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Replaced my radiator over the weekend, 2013 with ~83,000 miles, with the updated Toyota part. Noticed the hairline crack just starting in the usual place about 6 months ago. Drove 2500 miles round trip from Portland to SoCal over the holidays and inspected the radiator every couple of days. The hairline crack didn’t move at all over that road trip. I could probably have driven another 6 months at least before replacing, but figured it would be best to deal with it in the cooler weather and not have it go unexpectedly at the worst time.
 
I just finished replacing mine two days ago with 140,000 miles. I made a 38min video and put it on YouTube. I'm no expert but it could help some people who are hesitant to do this themselves. I'm sure that I don't call everything by the proper name and there are ways to do this easier. The main thing I took away was it helps having another set of hands around. Winter was a good time for this to happen to my truck, Happy it was not during the summer on my way to Yellowstone!

 
I just finished replacing mine two days ago with 140,000 miles. I made a 38min video and put it on YouTube. I'm no expert but it could help some people who are hesitant to do this themselves. I'm sure that I don't call everything by the proper name and there are ways to do this easier. The main thing I took away was it helps having another set of hands around. Winter was a good time for this to happen to my truck, Happy it was not during the summer on my way to Yellowstone!



Thanks!
 
I just finished replacing mine two days ago with 140,000 miles. I made a 38min video and put it on YouTube. I'm no expert but it could help some people who are hesitant to do this themselves. I'm sure that I don't call everything by the proper name and there are ways to do this easier. The main thing I took away was it helps having another set of hands around. Winter was a good time for this to happen to my truck, Happy it was not during the summer on my way to Yellowstone!


Helpful video as my radiator failed as well at 176k. Took over a week for the OEM radiator to arrive which was annoying. Dealer said they needed 5 hours and $800 to install. Looks more like 2 hours or so to me?

Should we add any transmission fluid to the new radiator prior to install or is most of the fluid sucked back from cooler when engine shuts down?
 

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