Builds 2007 LX470 Super Cruiser build with Elate Mfg Supercharger (2 Viewers)

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Joined
Aug 14, 2018
Threads
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1,377
Location
Morrison, CO
I picked up an Elate Mfg FDFI1900 supercharger kit last year and installed it over the last few days. This is now the final mod of my Super Cruiser build :steer:

I went for the full enchilada and ordered the intercooled kit for my VVTI 2UZ. I think I am the first person in the USA to put one of these on a VVTI truck because there were a few parts missing, like the runner extenders, from my initial shipment that Elate had to Express to me from the other side of the world. These parts hadn't machined yet when I placed my order last year but everything came and fit absolutely perfectly. I also purchased their W2A kit with the heat exchanger, hose, pump, reservoir, and fittings. Everything is top notch quality.

The install was pretty straight forward just be sure to read the instructions thoroughly beforehand, there are a few really key things that are buried. For instance: the water neck must be modified to clear the supercharger belt, the return fuel line needs to be modified, and the throttle wiring needs to be extended. After you mod the water neck then the upper rad hose doesn't fit, but you can use another 2UZ lower rad hose and cut it up and it works. Nothing that is super challenging but may take some unexpected prep time. I was able to cut the accordion section from the intake tube and use a silicone coupler instead therefore able to maintain the stock airbox. There was no modification needed to the hood I saw someone post that. If anything the SC sits lower than the stock intake.

It's also a good time to do some maintenance since you will have the intake manifold off. At the same time as the SC install I also did: full timing belt/WP service, front main crank seal, valvecover/spark plug tube seals, new starter motor, water bridge gaskets front and rear, and a new harmonic balancer. I recommend highly replacing the harmonic balancer if it's got some miles on it because of the increased drag from the blower combined with increased HP can make an old damper fall apart quickly and possibly slip timing. I also replaced the fan bracket, fan clutch, radiator and radiator shroud all with new OEM. I installed NGK BKR7EIX plugs from what @gungriffin told me these are what is used on the TRD 100-Series blowers and has a smaller gap and is one heat range cooler.

Ok here are the pictures. I will make a subsequent post about tuning, driving etc. I just got it running yesterday.

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Video overview of the supercharger install:



0-60 and current thoughts.
 
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2007 Lexus LX470 Super Cruiser Specs and mods list



Engine:
-Elate FDFI Supercharger
-Doug Thorley Headers
-Borla exhaust (https://amzn.to/3PAPL2N)
-eFlexFuel E85 conversion kit
-AEM high flow fuel pump (https://amzn.to/3zcsmO5)
-Fuelab 535 adjustable fuel regulator (https://amzn.to/3zEHvcp)
-"12-hole" Denso injectors
-Exhaust heatsheilding (https://amzn.to/3zcaanT)
-Fuel cooler (https://amzn.to/3S50nsm)

Suspension and Brakes:
-Stock AHC, new pump and globes
-Air Lift 1000 air bags (https://amzn.to/3cQObLu)
-Powerstop Extreme Towing brake package (https://amzn.to/3OGYbV7)
-Ford High Performance Dot-4 Brake fluid (https://amzn.to/3cPPB95)

Chassis and Armor:
-Dissent aluminum front bumper
-4x4Labs rear bumper
-Slee sliders
-Badlands Apex 12000lbs Winch (https://amzn.to/3bk8PTU)
-Ironman4x4 front LCA reinforcement brackets
-Trail Tailor rear LCA guards
-RGB Underbody "rockin" lights (https://amzn.to/3S2igrT)

Wheels and Tires:
-Nitto Ridge Grappler 275/70/18 (https://amzn.to/3PFNbIF)
-XD Addict 18x9 wheels (https://amzn.to/3OCbrKt)

Interior:
-Yaesu FTM-400 HAM radio (https://amzn.to/3PLA9d0)
-Uniden Pro520XL CB radio: (https://amzn.to/3zcuoOd)
-WeBoost Cell Booster (https://amzn.to/3Slol2T)
-48Ah LifePo4 house battery bank (https://amzn.to/3Q4wcQn)
-Rear window molle racks
-Custom curtains

Certified Weight: 5,860 lbs

Sundowner Car Hauler Trailer:
-All aluminum 1440lbs
-2x 4000lbs 6-lug axles with electric brakes
-8000lbs capacity


Completed Trails:
-Peak 10 Trail
-Slaughterhouse Gulch
-Yankee Hill
-Argentine Pass
-Jenny Creek
-Kingston Peak
-Hackett Gulch
-Longwater Gulch
-Metberry Gulch
-North Sand Hills
-Middle St. Vrain
-Coney Flats
-Kelly Flats
-San Rafael Swell Kokopelli, Behind the Reef, others I can't remember
-Fins n Things
-Hell's Revenge + Hell's Gate
-Jax Trax
-Elephant Hill
-Top of the World
-Gold Bar Rim
-Black Bear pass
-Imogene pass
-Super Secret Trail
-American Flag Mountain
-Tincup Pass
-Medano Pass
-Wheeler Lake

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How it started, Half Moon Bay, SF:

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Myrtle Beach, SC:

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Some place in between:

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Everytime I log onto Mud, my wallet is in danger. Threads like these is the main reason.

I have been on Elate's site many times looking at that kit and always wondered about the "completeness" of it. Thank you for being a pioneer and smoothing things over for future customers, such as myself.
 
This is pretty damn clean Jimmy! Nicely done. You actually have an intercooler which is definitely something that I don't. That SC, the intercooler and E85 is gonna be dangerously fun.

To anyone considering this, the USD/AUD exchange rate makes this a pretty damn good deal right now. Basically 33% off of listed price!
 
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i really need to stay off MUD every time im content with my cruiser i log on and find something else to drain my 401k :rofl:

your truck is awesome and you are an inspiration to us all :beer:
 
I spent most of yesterday using my truck to do truck things that I had put off for a couple weeks while it was down. I was not able to get more than 1.5 PSI of boost otherwise it was running awesome. Today I spent some time troubleshooting and am now producing 4.5 PSI. At my elevation of 6000 ft, Travis of Elate says that 4.5 PSI is the calculated max with the current pulley I'm using. At sea level it should make closer to 6 PSI.

Anyway I changed from a cheapo serpentine belt to a green Gates Fleetrunner belt which is one of the best for high loads. Travis at Elate was guessing my belt was slipping. Secondly, I added a second hole in the airbox with a tube to the fender right next to the stock one and that jumped my boost from 3.6 PSI to 4.5 PSI which I'm at now. The truck rips now! It really goes and pulls hard all the way to redline. I will do some 0-60 and 1/4 mile testing ASAP.

Just want to add that Travis at Elate has been awesome the whole time from when I first emailed about their kit to just now when I asked him a dumb question. Even with the time difference he's always answering my questions and never giving me grief. He really has a passion for these engines and his blower and it shows. Great guy great company!

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New airbox feeding tube on the lower left. Thinking about adding a 3rd.

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I believe someone on here recently posted their really nice 100 with a TRD SC install and they gained a couple PSI just by changing the intake tube. I can't remember who or enough info to find it in searching but if someone can find it please post a link for me! I want to check it again.


Haha thanks guys! @gungriffin, seeing how reliable and powerful your truck is out on the trails was a major factor behind pulling the trigger on this kit. I do not want to ruin the great reliability of my truck but I also want POWER! When I purchased last year the exchange rate was really low, also a major factor in the purchase!
 
Manual swap next?? Lol good looking rig!
Thanks but no way! Everything about this truck is about function and the auto is just better for it, sorry but it's true. I do plan on doing something with the trans like a valve body upgrade, maybe.
 
Gotta say I really love how this all looks and that green belt really pops. Love it. Now I just need more money. Anyone have any luck with their money trees? Mine is planted but hasn’t sprouted any money leaves yet.
 
The A750f 5 speed auto on the diesel FTE hates power upgrades without supporting mods and I am pretty sure the 5 speed for petrol isn't any different. 5th gear leaves the chat pretty quick, followed by 4th. With supporting mods 700nM is the maximum safe torque. 600-650 is safer. The line pressure is too low for 5th & 4th gear. The uprated valve bodies try to mitigate that.
Not sure what sort of piggyback is used with the SC, but it is essential that it cuts back on the fuel during gear changes to limit torque. The stock ECU does just that, most piggybacks don't. Unichip for the diesel does it, but the tuner has to take care of it.

This is a petrol, so torque probably doesn't increase as quickly as with the diesel, but the 5 speed is simply fragile.
A442f is more robust and can be built to handle up to 800-850+nm
AB60 from the 200 is way sturdier and does 800-900nm stock...
Manual handles 1300nm+ where the clutch becomes the limiting factor.
 
@Moridinbg thanks for that info! I am definitely planning on staying below 600 Nm. I'm really happy with the truck as it sits now and am weary of adding too much power. What mods would you suggest for the transmission specifically? I use my truck to tow regularly and really never see over 160-170F on the transmission temperature but I will keep a closer eye on it now with the SC. I always tow in 4th gear or lower, never in 5th.


I guess this is a good time to talk about what I'm doing for tuning. I am actually surprised with how little I'm doing for tuning. I have a MAP-ECU3 which is a piggy-back ECU that I can adjust ignition timing and fuel. My stock ECU is unmodified and yes it still pulls timing and fuel during shifts.


When it comes to tuning for boost in order to keep the engine safe you need to have the right amount of fuel and the ignition timing has to be safe. So far the stock ECU and injectors are keeping up and I'm seeing 12:1 to 12.5:1 AFR at WOT which is right where I want it. So basically my fuel system is stockish and the OEM ECU is unmodified. I am not using the piggyback to control fuel at all which is pretty awesome.

For ignition timing I created a simple table to retard timing between 3 PSI and 10 PSI (I'll likely never see 10 PSI but that's how the ECU scales). Starting at 3 PSI I retard the timing 1 degree and then 1 degree per 1 PSI after that. This is generally a pretty conservative rule of thumb for boost. I attached a screenshot of the table to this post.

My other supporting mods are:
-AEM fuel pump (https://amzn.to/3o8Dpmy)
-AEM Wideband O2 gauge (https://amzn.to/3Pjl81S)
-12-hole injectors (https://amzn.to/3clX4gd)
-Doug Thorley headers
-Borla exhaust (https://amzn.to/3z9CxUS)
-E85 FlexFuel kit
-2x oil catch cans (https://amzn.to/3ATxI3f)

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Have you considered doing away with the stock airbox, upsizing intake pipe and doing an inline cone filter in an enclosure? Something like this? I'm sure you would need a coupler to reduce the pipe size back down to the throttle body, but I'm guessing you would still see an improvement in flow.
 
Have you considered doing away with the stock airbox, upsizing intake pipe and doing an inline cone filter in an enclosure? Something like this? I'm sure you would need a coupler to reduce the pipe size back down to the throttle body, but I'm guessing you would still see an improvement in flow.
Oh yeah definitely. I want to keep the stock airbox for the excellent filtration it provides, I don't trust those cone filters on the trail. I will keep messing around with it until I find the best of both worlds. At this point I am not left wanting for power :) We will see how long that lasts. Travis is already trying to sell me a smaller pulley.
 
Looks great! I had to swap intake tube to gain more psi. Intake was good for alot more HP on dyno. Will you be tuning it on dyno? May find that you don't need to retard timing with the internal cooler? Definitely interested and will be following.
 
Oh yeah definitely. I want to keep the stock airbox for the excellent filtration it provides, I don't trust those cone filters on the trail. I will keep messing around with it until I find the best of both worlds. At this point I am not left wanting for power :) We will see how long that lasts. Travis is already trying to sell me a smaller pulley.
I used an Airaid intake tube for a 4.7L Tundra to replace my thrashed stock intake tube. Retains stock filter box, eliminates some of the resonator chamber things, and has bungs for all the stock tubing of the original.
 
Nice build!
Out of curiosity, does this mod increase or decrease the gas mileage, or not much difference?
 

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