2006 UZJ100 Build thread (1 Viewer)

[rainbow94]

Hello MUD,

Here is my “new” 2006 UZJ100. I purchased it from my father recently when he decided a Tundra (5.7L) would better suit his needs.

It is dark grey metallic (1E9), with a grey interior (LA10). My father purchased it with ~100k miles in 2015. It currently has ~175k miles and has been well taken care of as I’ve personally done or handled most of the maintenance during his ownership. Prior to that, it has spent some time in the Midwest (Ohio I believe) before arriving in the DC area for the last ~10 years. There is some surface rust, so addressing that is a priority this fall as it is manageable.

The purpose of this vehicle will be for weekend and day trips around the Northeast to get outside and surf, bike, climb, fish, hike, camp, ski, etc. It should be turnkey to chase activities and trailheads. While I love a project, I don’t have the capacity for another one right now. For now I want to preserve it, keep it “lightweight” and close to stock. It’s not my daily driver but I want to be able to daily drive it when necessary. I already have a “built” 80 series and am in the process of finishing a 1st gen 4runner resto-mod so I do not need overlapping vehicle functions/projects.

1994 FZJ80 - Built for wandering the west with ~370K miles.

To be continued on next post.

 

[rainbow94]

1989 4Runner - Resto-mod with 5VZ w/ R150F swapped, dual transfer cases, 33 inch tires, F&R lockers, 4.88 gears, long travel etc. Build thread: 1st Gen 4runner Project: My COVID-19 Build - https://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/1st-gen-4runner-project-my-covid-19-build.213939/

Since I took ownership of the 100 series I added:

• Seat covers: Wet Okole neoprene covers
• Faded headlight restoration
• Replaced rusted splash guard

We will be taking the 100 on vacation from New Hampshire to the upper peninsula of Michigan at the end of this month (September 2022). I am working on getting the vehicle ready for ~4000 miles in one week. I took it to my local Toyota dealer and they said for it to pass NH inspection all it needed was an exhaust leak patched. They also mentioned the passenger CV and oil pan are starting to leak and would require attention so I should watch both. Other than that it looks and sounds good.

Prior to our trip in two weeks:

• Order any spares: belts, fuel pump, sparks, anything else? -> Completed Sep22
• Roof rack: Ordered Gamiviti rack, should arrive before our departure -> Completed Sep22
• Battery replacement: Upgrade size to Odyssey Extreme Group 31 (ODX-AGM31A) with Slee Main Battery tray -> Completed Sep22
• Exhaust: Rather than patching the old one, picked up a Borla cat-back -> Completed 06Sep22
• registered/inspected -> Completed 08Sep22
• Audio: Bluetooth (BT45-TOY) installed -> Completed Sep22
• Tint: 50% VLT in front, 20% VLT rear -> Decided to defer, maybe for another time
• Oil change: 5W30 Synthetic with Toyota filter and washer and added magnetic drain plug -> Completed 09Sep22
• Fire extinguisher and seat mount from Cruiser Garage-> Completed Sep22

Spring work - ideally at ~185miles:

• NH undercarriage oil to address rust (scheduled for end of October 2022) -> Completed Oct22
• Timing belt: I’d like to do this myself but it'll be my first interface motor -> TBD
• Front end: CVs, ball joints, hubs, anything else? -> TBD
• Oil pan reseal: Supposedly very labor intensive/expensive as the frame brace and other IFS components have to be removed -> TBD
• Tune up: belts, sparks, wires?, fuel pump, fuel filter, flush/replace all fluids -> TBD

Cheers!

 

[Kabanstva]

Looks like you got some badass rigs in your household!

 

[nem3sis]

Very nice collection!

 

[AJax33]

Those are some nice rigs ya got there! I love that metallic grey color. That's a lot to do in 2 weeks! That's more than I've done in 6 years of ownership

The things that have caused me issues are are the CVs, front hubs, ignition coils... Enjoy that road trip to the UP!

 

[rainbow94]

Fall 2022:

At the end of September 2022 we drove the it from NH to the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, through Wisconsin and back to the Northeast, with a detour into Vermont.

Roof rack: I ordered a Gamiviti rack in the late spring. It arrived just before our departure for Michigan/Wisconsin after some shipping drama. Been very happy with it. Hasn’t seen much heavy “expedition” use but proven useful for my purposes. Tim (business owner) was great to deal with. Would recommend.

 

[rainbow94]

Borla exhaust: The original exhaust was rusted out and did not pass inspection. I ordered the Borla cat-back exhaust (P/N: 157-14814) and had it installed. The Borla exhaust tip was too big to fit with the factory tow hitch. I had an exhaust shop cut the tip and weld a slightly smaller one on. Disappointed it was not a bolt-on (as-advertised) but it was still an upgrade and passed inspection.

Battery: The battery was at the end of its life. I decided it was a good time to upgrade to a group 31 Odyssey battery using the Slee kit. I also upgraded the old ground cable. The hood does sit a tad higher. Not ideal, but it doesn’t bother me.

Fire extinguisher mount: I installed a fire extinguisher mount (Cruiser Garage accessory mount) and extinguisher at the feet of the front passenger seat. I’m not a fan of this location. It is accessible but interferes too much with passenger comfort. Often the extinguisher is removed for passenger comfort. It works, but I would like to find a better location for the extinguisher.

 

[rainbow94]

Maintenance: September 2022 to May 2023

Power steering: Only hiccup we had in on our trip was a slow power steering leak. I watched and topped off with ATF fluid as needed on the road. When we returned, I had the “paper clip” cooler assembly (P/N: 44402-60012) replaced. Unfortunately, other lines rusted out shortly after. So I had the PS system (reservoir P/N: 44360-60210, pump P/N: 44310-60390, pressure line assembly P/N: 44410-60590, and all other lines, brackets, hardware, bolts etc.) up to the steering rack (replaced at 147k miles on Apr19) replaced.

Oil changes: Two oil changes (every <5k miles or six months) with Mobil-1 5W-30 synthetic, filter (P/N:90915-YZZD3) and bolt gasket (P/N: 90430-12031).

Oil Undercoating: Even though this is a second vehicle (for now), I do drive this in the winter in in a climate prone to heavily corroding vehicles. I took it NH Oil Undercoating (Home - https://nhoilundercoating.com/) for an oil undercoating. While the vehicle does have some surface rust, I’d like to preserve the vehicle as best as possible. Eventually I’d like to eliminate the rust but an oil undercoating should help slow the rust down.

Sway bar bushings and links: The original bushings and links were noticible worn. I ordered a kit (CruiserTeq.com P/N: SUS470SBKITOEM) and had it installed.

Fog lights: The fog light housings were leaking water at the lens seal. OEM was expensive, so replaced the housings with aftermarket (to pass inspection). The OEM housings are noticeably higher quality and are nicer since the bulbs are reflected within the housing.

Old:

New:

 

[2000UZJ]

Fog lights: The fog light housings were leaking water at the lens seal. OEM was expensive, so replaced the housings with aftermarket (to pass inspection). The OEM housings are noticeably higher quality and are nicer since the bulbs are reflected within the housing.

Put one drop of dawn dish soap in your OEM fogs, and fill them 50% with water and put an old blown bulb in them, shake quite hard and let sit for 10 minutes and repeat until they are clear again. Once they are clear (or much, much better) run some demineralized water through them and let them sit and dry. The demineralized water does not leave water spots as it air dries. I did that with my headlights a few times when they filled with mud, worked perfectly every time. Run a nice little bead of silicone around the outside of the lens and you will have nice looking OEM fogs again for under $20

 

[rainbow94]

Put one drop of dawn dish soap in your OEM fogs, and fill them 50% with water and put an old blown bulb in them, shake quite hard and let sit for 10 minutes and repeat until they are clear again. Once they are clear (or much, much better) run some demineralized water through them and let them sit and dry. The demineralized water does not leave water spots as it air dries. I did that with my headlights a few times when they filled with mud, worked perfectly every time. Run a nice little bead of silicone around the outside of the lens and you will have nice looking OEM fogs again for under $20

This. This is the correct answer. Aftermarket/non-oems all seem to leak out of the box. Thanks

 

[rainbow94]

Summer 2023:

AC: On our way home from a camping trip, the A/C was not working. The diagnosis was that the rear lines were leaking, a common issue on the 100 series. Rear A/C was a feature we liked about this vehicle and I wanted to repair it. After seeing the cost, I decided it was not worth it financially and capped the rear lines with plugs from this kit.

(Rear AC block kit for Toyota Land Cruiser, fits years 1996 | 2002 | 2003 | 2004 | 2005 | 2006 | 2002 | 2003 | 2004 | 2005 | 2006 - https://www.streetrodguys.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=18_84&product_id=172)​

02 Sensor: While on a road trip, we had an O2 sensor code. I ordered a Denso and replaced it on the road. Only the driver downstream needed replacing, but I have the other 3 now. The vehicle was back to full power and I noticed the MPG went up too 

Denso part numbers:​

Downstream - 234-4260 (x2)​

Upstream – 234-9051 (x2)​

Attic rack: I also order and installed the ProSpeed attic rack in the back. On my 80 series, I did the simple closet shelf and hose clamp solution, and it was one of my favorite features. This one is much more rigid that a closed shelf and it bolts it. The brackets didn’t quite fit and I had to trim them slightly. Even though it is more rigid, it also has wider holes so some of my items fell through. I ordered some plastic cutouts on Amazon and problem solved. It’s nice to keep my surf straps and extra layers handy.

Adventures: This summer the truck took us on a handful of adventures on the east coast.

Northern Vermont – Base camp for gravel biking

Northern, New Jersey – 5am surf check (lots of Canadian wildfire smoke)

Lubec, Maine – Most easternmost town in the US

 

[2000UZJ]

I keep forgetting to ask...what seat covers are those? They look amazing!

Edit: I really should read...I see now.

 

[rainbow94]

In October 2023, the vehicle started a leaking at the oil pan and the passenger CV was on its way out. We were moving so repairing the LC was not a priority (my second vehicle). I parked and covered it this winter and made lists of projects/parts. Took advantage of sales when they occurred and stockpiled parts. Originally, I was planning to do everything myself, but I decided using the vehicle this summer was more important to me than becoming more mechanically familiar with it. I took it to Parry’s Automotive (Toyota shop) in Portland Maine and had them do the following jobs with all the parts I had been collecting:

July 2024: 193.5k miles

Timing belt, water pump and cooling: TB was done at ~101k by previous owner in 2012. WP was done separately. Reading around and given my experience with my 80 series, I also decided to have additional work done since it seems like at ~200k is when failures start. Admittedly, I fell victim to the “while you’re in there” virus but keeping the vehicle reliable is very important to me. I had the WP, Timing belt, radiator, fan shroud, coolant hoses

Parts:​

Timing belt Aisin kit: TKT-021 from Cruiser Outfitters​

1 x Water Pump​

1 x Water Pump Gasket​

1 x Timing Belt​

1 x Timing Belt Tensioner Assembly​

1 x Water Bypass Pipe O-Ring​

1 x Water Inlet Housing O-Ring​

1 x Timing Belt Idler Sub Assembly #2​

1 x Timing Belt Idler Sub Assembly #1​

2 x Camshaft Seals​

1 x Crank Seal​

1 x Timing Belt Cover Gasket Insert​

Fan: 16361-50170​

Fan bolts: 90179-06293 (x4)​

Engine fan bracket: AISIN FBT-002​

Bracket bolts: 16604-50030​

Fan clutch: 16210-50101​

Nuts: 90029-07010 (x4)​

Belt tensioner assy: 16620-0W100​

Radiator: 16400-50290​

Inlet hose: 16571-50150​

Clamps: 9046741002 (X2)​

Outlet hose: 16572-50150​

Clamp: 90467-41002 (x2)​

Thermostat: 90916-03100​

Thermostat gasket: 16346-50010​

​

CV axles: Replaced the original CVs with brand new OEM Toyota CVs. Only the passenger was leaking and had just started making noise. I saved the originals to rebuild for spares/replacement.

Parts -​

CV Axle: 43430-60040 (x2)​

Front diff seal: 90311-47027 (x2)​

Gas tank skid plate: The gas tank shield had a few rust holes, and I was told by my Toyota dealer it wouldn’t pass inspection next time. I ordered a new one and raptor lined it to try keep this one from rusting after paint chips away from driving it.

Parts -​

Skid plate: 77606-60120​

Straps: 77601-60210 (x2)​

Hardware: 91645-C1032 (x4)​

Oil pan: The oil pan was leaking and need to be resealed. The pan needed to be dropped and resealed. I ordered a new oil pan anyway and hardware anyway.

Parts -​

Gasket FIPG: 00295-00103​

Oil pan: 12102-50090​

Hardware:​

Bolt: 90080-11178 (x 20)​

Nut: 90179-06129 (x2)​

Stud: 90116-06098 (x2)​

Tires: Replaced the Michelins (got 95k miles out of them) as they were just under the 2/32” tread depth. I really liked that tire but wanted to go to an A/T. I agonized over my tire choice and went up a size in diameter, from the stock 275/60/R18 to a 275/65R18. I went with the new Falken Wildpeak AT4W with the standard load (SL).

I did a lot of research and concluded I did not want Load E as these tires will see mostly highway and the extra weight wasn’t worth it for my application. Instead of going to the to a 275/70/R18 (largest you can run without modification) like most, I thought the slightly smaller tire would better suit my needs. A larger tire is more tread (resistance) to move, and I did not want the spare to rub against the pan hand bar or impact the hitch use. Besides, this vehicle will see mostly pavement and I have other offroad vehicles in my life for real wheeling (when they are fixed/complete).

We don’t have too many miles on them so far, but they are more responsive than my Michelins and haven’t noticed any noise changes (but maybe overtime that’ll change). I noticed my MPG went from 15-16 MPG to 14-15 MPG. It was sitting a while, maybe the ECU needs to “relearn.” Wondering if there is anything I should do (replace remaining O2 sensors, clean MAF, replace ignitors, etc.) that would bring this (my tank range) up.

Front brakes: Upon inspection, the shop replaced the front brake pads, rotors, calibers with OEM Toyota parts of course. I didn’t track the part numbers for this since this wasn’t something I was expecting it would need quite yet.

Tie rods: The passenger side inner tie rod needed replacing. I ordered a complete kit 555 (P/N: TRE100LTRE) from Cruiser Outfitters. They aren’t OEM, but seem to be equivalent or at least reliable enough.

 

[rainbow94]

Rear window: Came home from work one day to this scene in the spring.

Looks like a landscaping accident. Filed a police report but nothing was missing. I tracked down a replacement window after weeks and replaced it myself. Finding the correct tint was tougher than expected. Also replaced the outrebounding (RH: 756416002, LH: 75642-600021) while I was at it.

Tint code M2L4 (spotted the same 2006 in the wild):

Picture of trim strip:

 

[rainbow94]

I keep forgetting to ask...what seat covers are those? They look amazing!

Edit: I really should read...I see now.

All good, they are Wet Okole - Car Seat Covers - Best Custom-fit Seat Covers, Truck Seat Covers, Automobile Seat Covers, Auto Seat Covers - https://www.wetokole.com/

I really like them. Have them in my daily too, and my brothers and Dad all have them in their vehicles. No complaints. They go on sale frequently

 

[rainbow94]

August 2024: 195k miles

Fuel filter: Looks like this was the original fuel filter. At least I did not see any documentation in my binder or receipts.

Parts:​

Fuel filter: 23300-50090​

Green clip: 90923-07002​

White clip: 90469-12012​

Sparks: Replaced the spares. Looks like they were last done ~100k miles. They were Denso and looked like they were in good shape. Considering doing the ignition coils too, but I don’t know if there is much advantage to replacing those prematurely for performance. Seems like most replace once there is one or two that fail for the sake of reliability.

Parts:​

Spark plus: 90080-91180 (x8)​

Heater Ts: I replaced both my heater Ts with some metal Ts and new clamps. These were original and looked fine but the one closest to the driver side had some dried coolant starting to form on the edge and even broke when removed.

Top and left Ts are originals, right is replacement:

Installed:

Fluids: Replaced the transfer case, front and rear differential fluids. I am not sure when these were done last, but the last receipt/record I have is ~110k miles. The vehicle has seen mostly highway with some around the town miles and no heavy use but I think it was time looking at the fluids color.

Transfer Case -

Notes:​

Torque spec 27 ft lb (for both plugs)​

Skid plate torque spec 21 ft lb​

75w-90 GL-5 (~1.5 quarts)​

​

Parts:​

Drain plug: 90341-18040​

Drain washer: 12157-10010​

Fill plug: 90341-18006​

Fill washer: 12157-10010​

Front differential -

Notes:​

Torque spec –36 ft lb (for both)​

75w-90 GL-5 (3.5 quarts)​

10 mm Allen key head or t55 socket​

Parts:​

Drain plug: 90341-18035​

Drain washer: 12157-10010​

Fill plug: 90341-18032​

Fill washer: 12157-10010​

Rear differential -

Notes:​

Torque spec –36 ft lb (for both)​

75w-90 GL-5 (3.5 quarts)​

​

Parts:​

Drain plug: 90341-18040​

Drain washer: 12157-10010​

Fill plug: 90341-18006​

Fill washer: 12157-10010​

​

Rear diff drain plug picture: (Was told this was "normal" when I shared the pic with some mechanics)

Weatherstripping: I ordered all new weather stripping around the truck. The engine and truck/hatch weatherstripping were looking worn. Upon removing the trunk body stripping, I noticed there was a ton of trapped debris and the start of rust. I cleaned it all the debris out, then sanded and painted the seam with rust encapsulate. The trunk now shuts much tighter and seals much tighter too. Will be doing doors next.

Tailgate seals:​

Hatch bottom weather strip: 68281-60020​

Hatch inner weatherstrip: 67881-60110​

​

Engine seals:​

Font hood: 43381-60041​

Front hood: 53183-60071​

Firewall seal: 53383-60031​

New trunk seal:

Cabin air filter: These later 100 series did not come with cabin filters, however other 100 series models did come with cabin filters. Doing some research, its not too hard to replace this with OEM parts (and they are still available )

Parts:​

No. 1 cover: 88891-60040​

No. 2 cover (access panel): 88891-60060​

OEM cabin filters: 88568-60010 (x2)​

OEM evaporator cover seal: 88578-47040​

​

Scan Guage: Mounted a Scan Guage on the steering wheel column.

 

[rainbow94]

Next steps: We will be taking this to the OBX in a few weeks. There are a few things left to get the vehicle ready for that trip, and I’ll need to find some self-recovery tools (air compressor, tire deflator, maxtraxs, shovel, etc).

After our trip, I’d like to address the rust. From what I’ve seen in the Northeast (and what all shops have told me so far), the rust on this vehicle is still very manageable. I’d like to have frame and undercarriage rust addressed then coated with NHOU again. The two rear body corners have rust (common apparently), and I’d also like to have that addressed. Ideally, I would do all this myself, but I think having this done by a shop may be worth my time. Will be looking around for shops local to me in Seacoast NH if anyone has recommendations, but I’d also be willing to travel for the right shop(s).

In the new year the plan is to sell my current daily and have the 100 take over for daily duties. My daily is driven ~6k miles a year so once the 100 is ready and reliable, it makes more sense to consolidate vehicles. Plus, I should have my 4Runner in to NH soon and I would like to only have one “project vehicle” at a time. I believe we have done everything needed to keep this 100 reliable and hopefully it won’t need any more major maintenance for some time now.

 

[rainbow94]

Fridge repair: I took the fridge out of my 80 series with the intent to fix and use it again. It wasn’t turning on or detecting power. These fridges are expensive, and I wasn’t interested in buying another one. It was out of warranty and ARB was no help.

Based on some internet searching - this seems to be a common issue and due to a bad logic board. You can get a new logic board, replace it easily since it is mounted on the inside of the back panel. I was able to do so with some basic computer repair tools.

Parts:
ARB logic board 10910077 - ARB 10910077 ARB Fridge Freezer Replacement Components | Summit Racing - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARB-10910077

Bad Logic board:

Fridge outlet: I decided the fridge will live on the passenger side since that is where the single backseat folds down. This maximizes your sleeping space in the back when needed (rare for me) or cargo. I used the 10 Gauge fridge ARB wiring kit, with a blue sea switch panel along with ~2 feet of extra 10 gauge wiring, electrical tab connectors, and mouting hardware.

Parts list:
ARB wiring kit P/N ARB 10900027
Blue Seas system panel 4363
10 gauge wire (2 conductor)
10 awg electrical tab connectors
Cable protective sleeve
Mounting hardware
Heat shrink

I ran the wiring from the battery along the driver side to firewall and carefully poked a small hole into the factory harness wiring grommet. Once inside the cab, the cable ran along the edge of floor by driver side doors and crossed to the passenger side under the rear seats then to the passenger quarter panel trim. I sleeved the wiring to have as clean of an install as possible. If I did it again, I probably would have done do an 8 gauge wire to an accessory fuse panel in the back.

I also and added disconnects within the wiring, so the trim panel can easily be removed from the vehicle by just disconnecting the wiring. Confirmed power at the end outlet (12.8V, vehicle sitting cold for 5 days). After testing connections, plugged the fridge in and let it sit overnight. Success! Fridge cooled from 55F to 28F quickly and stayed cold there overnight. I made my final install and cut the trim to mount the Blue Seas panel.

I’ve had the fridge installed for about 4 weeks. When the weather is cooler (50F to 70F), seems the battery has no problem cold starting after 48 hours, but after 72 hours or when its hotter, it cranks week and has a battery voltage below 12.6V. I would like a solar solution and/or a dual battery set up if I keep it installed full time.

 

[rainbow94]

Carpet cleaning and sound deadening:
While I was ripping the interior apart to install the fridge wiring, I decided to do a good cleaning of the interior. It wasn’t too dirty but it hasn’t had a good cleaning since it was brought into the family. I cleaned the trim panels, used a steam cleaner on the carpet and installed sound deadening to the rear cargo. I only sound deaden the cargo area up to the rear passenger floor. This was very much a “while you are there” project and I expect I will be doing an audio and door refresh next summer. Forgot to take pictures, but it it's noticeably cleaner inside.

Polish and waxing:
The most satisfying project I’ve done to the vehicle since owning it has been reviving the exterior. I washed, clay barred, buffed, polished, sealed and waxed the whole exterior. Some scratches disappeared and now you can see some imperfections better (dings, deep clear coat scratches, etc) but it is glossy to the touch and looks much nicer than it did before. The finish is much more glossy. I’m sure ill want to repaint it someday but for now I’ll just have to enjoy the original paint rather and try not to stress about perfect paint and body work

 

[YardPig]

Great build, thanks for the writeup, keep it coming!