2006 UZJ100 Build thread
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- Thread starter
- #22
Spoiler delete:
I really love the rear spoiler. This 100 doesn’t see much dust but love the look. I could not open the hatch more than a few inches with our surfboards on top. It was a huge PITA on our trip to not be able to open the hatch fully. I could have strapped the boards more forward, so they hang over the windshield, but I’d prefer to not have that wind force on them for extended periods.
The spoiler has the brake light integrated. I was able to replace the brake light with an OEM one after removing the spoiler and hatch garnish.
Service manual instructions:
Parts:
It’s nice that this is plug and play modification with factory parts, so it is reversible. I don’t like the look, but I can open the hatch now with surfboards overhanging. I know I’ll be reinstalling the spoiler someday when this isn’t our primary trip/recreation vehicle.
I really love the rear spoiler. This 100 doesn’t see much dust but love the look. I could not open the hatch more than a few inches with our surfboards on top. It was a huge PITA on our trip to not be able to open the hatch fully. I could have strapped the boards more forward, so they hang over the windshield, but I’d prefer to not have that wind force on them for extended periods.
The spoiler has the brake light integrated. I was able to replace the brake light with an OEM one after removing the spoiler and hatch garnish.
Service manual instructions:
Parts:
- 5/8’’ diameter hole plug
- M6 bolts, rubber washers and a tiny bead of silicone
- Toyota Taillight (P/N: 81570-60062)
It’s nice that this is plug and play modification with factory parts, so it is reversible. I don’t like the look, but I can open the hatch now with surfboards overhanging. I know I’ll be reinstalling the spoiler someday when this isn’t our primary trip/recreation vehicle.
- Thread starter
- #23
Headlights:
I replaced the headlights with new OEM ones. They look amazing and I’m very happy with them. New headlight housings really improve the look of the vehicle in my opinion.
Parts:
3M film
Left housing P/N: 81170-60B11
Right housing P/N: 81130-60B21
Left fog light P/N: 81221-60042
Right fog light P/N: 81211-60122
Lightbulbs:
Low beam: 9006
High beam: 9005
Turn signal: 1157A
Fog light: 9006
Before installing them, I wrapped the lenses with 3M film to help protect them. Installation was straightforward. After I installed them, I found this YouTube video and its step-by-step:
Photos of new lights:
I replaced the headlights with new OEM ones. They look amazing and I’m very happy with them. New headlight housings really improve the look of the vehicle in my opinion.
Parts:
3M film
Left housing P/N: 81170-60B11
Right housing P/N: 81130-60B21
Left fog light P/N: 81221-60042
Right fog light P/N: 81211-60122
Lightbulbs:
Low beam: 9006
High beam: 9005
Turn signal: 1157A
Fog light: 9006
Before installing them, I wrapped the lenses with 3M film to help protect them. Installation was straightforward. After I installed them, I found this YouTube video and its step-by-step:
Photos of new lights:
Andrew S
SILVER Star
Price for headlamps is pretty reasonable, I should buy a spare set myself. What bulbs did you go with for the fogs? I've been contemplating switching to yellow as well.
- Thread starter
- #25
Based on my 80 ownership, I wanted to get new headlights before they become unobtainium. Very happy I ordered some while one of the toyota parts suppliers mentioned in this forum were having a sale
The fog bulbs are Hella H71070602 Optilux XY: Amazon.com - https://www.amazon.com/Optilux-HELLA-H71070602-Yellow-Halogen/dp/B002E2UK8O
I prefer the yellow lights for fog lights. IMO they perform better in snow, rain and fog (less reflection of the light). Another benefit is grabbing the attention distracted drivers with different color lights.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #26
Next steps:
I believe the truck is nearly in a state where it is ready for both adventure and daily duties. My daily driver mileage is ~5000 miles/year, so I’d like to sell the current daily and make the 100 the daily. Since I don’t drive the daily much, this will allow me to consolidate vehicles (space, cost, responsibility, etc.), and help support my other Toyota project vehicles. There are a few items I’d like to address on the 100 before selling the daily.
RUST: There is rust on the undercarriage and the body cavities behind the rear bumper
I have seen far worse examples but addressing the rust and preserving the vehicle is worthwhile to me. I considered replacing this 100 with a rust-free example, but “better the devil you know” since I know this 100’s history 
. All 100s seem to be projects in one way or another. I wouldn’t mind doing the rust rehab myself but that isn’t a viable option at the moment, and I don’t want to wait much longer. Still looking for a shop I trust but the plan would be to address the undercarriage and body rust all at once, then coat with WoolWax to protect it from salt.
AHC: The only AHC maintenance completed was when the passenger line leaked and was replaced at ~150k. Dealerships told me that “there is no service plan for the AHC.” I really like the AHC and have been researching the system’s maintenance. Seems that flushing the fluid and replacing the globes is how to best maintain these at the current 200k mile marker. I am considering replacing the shocks and rear springs too but am not sure if that is worthwhile. I would really like to keep the AHC but I do see the reliability benefit by going to the standard “static” suspension set up. Open to opinions on this if anybody has experience.
Transmission fluid: The transmission was flushed at ~100k miles. At nearly 200k miles (most of the last 100k were highway), I am torn to start doing the drain and fill method during oil changes or another transmission flush. Seems like there are many different thoughts on the best method. Any strong opinions on which is best?
Skid plate: I am missing the middle skid plate but replaced (and raptor lined) both the gas tank and front skid plates. My initial thought was to replace the skid plates with an aftermarket aluminum set to keep them from rusting while also giving the undercarriage more protection. However, everyone I talk to who went aluminum encouraged me to go steel instead. Steel is cheaper, offers stronger protection and is easier to repair. While I can’t see myself rock crawling this 100 anytime soon, (although I always loved the idea of SASing a USDM 100 series), steel may be a better selection for those reasons. I have also considered just replacing the middle plate with a new (used rust free) OEM middle if I can find one. Spending ~$2k for aftermarket skid plates seems silly if I am not really off-roading it, and makes an OEM replacement appealing (at the right price).
With the above items addressed, I believe the 100 will be a problem free daily for at least a few years. I love this vehicle in its “stock” form but after our OBX trip there are a few “wants” that would increase our appreciation for the 100.
Larger gas tank: Would love to have the extra range for exploring (and cannonballing to the trailhead). I am not interested in carrying extra gas cans or moving the spare tire. This means the best solution is a larger main gas tank.
The only “bolt on” option available for the UZJ100 in the US currently is the Long Range America replacement ~40Gal (1.6x capacity) tank but it is only for the 1998-2004 UZJ100s. A fellow Mudder installed it on their 2007 UZJ100 and documented in a thread (https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/lra-40g-main-tank-05-install.1337486/page-6Reading this thread) that I have been following. Their install required some work around and modification of the new tank. Additionally, I have heard disappointing things about the components (notably the hoses) supplied from fellow Yota enthusiasts. Currently, this tank seems like more hassle than it's worth to me, but a larger main gas tank is something I am very interested pursuing.
Dual battery: The ARB fridge does drain the battery and stops running once it sits for more than a few days. Never to the point of needing a battery charge or jump but having the extra electrical power would be nice. Considering the dual battery system over a solar charger for cosmetic purposes. I do not want a solar panel mounted on the hood or taking up valuable roof space. Unfortunately, there is no aux battery tray offered on the aftermarket for those of us who have retained our AHC. This means all of us with AHC fabricate aux battery trays then relocated the PS reservoir and some electronic modules to mount the aux battery between the airbox and AHC. That would be my plan, coupled with an off the shelf battery management system.
The goal of all this work is has been to get the 100 in a state where it is not a project vehicle for me and make room for my other project Toyotas. Very much looking forward to having this vehicle dialed and I feel very close to that point! Cheers! 
I believe the truck is nearly in a state where it is ready for both adventure and daily duties. My daily driver mileage is ~5000 miles/year, so I’d like to sell the current daily and make the 100 the daily. Since I don’t drive the daily much, this will allow me to consolidate vehicles (space, cost, responsibility, etc.), and help support my other Toyota project vehicles. There are a few items I’d like to address on the 100 before selling the daily.
RUST: There is rust on the undercarriage and the body cavities behind the rear bumper
I have seen far worse examples but addressing the rust and preserving the vehicle is worthwhile to me. I considered replacing this 100 with a rust-free example, but “better the devil you know” since I know this 100’s history . All 100s seem to be projects in one way or another. I wouldn’t mind doing the rust rehab myself but that isn’t a viable option at the moment, and I don’t want to wait much longer. Still looking for a shop I trust but the plan would be to address the undercarriage and body rust all at once, then coat with WoolWax to protect it from salt.AHC: The only AHC maintenance completed was when the passenger line leaked and was replaced at ~150k. Dealerships told me that “there is no service plan for the AHC.” I really like the AHC and have been researching the system’s maintenance. Seems that flushing the fluid and replacing the globes is how to best maintain these at the current 200k mile marker. I am considering replacing the shocks and rear springs too but am not sure if that is worthwhile. I would really like to keep the AHC but I do see the reliability benefit by going to the standard “static” suspension set up. Open to opinions on this if anybody has experience.
Transmission fluid: The transmission was flushed at ~100k miles. At nearly 200k miles (most of the last 100k were highway), I am torn to start doing the drain and fill method during oil changes or another transmission flush. Seems like there are many different thoughts on the best method. Any strong opinions on which is best?
Skid plate: I am missing the middle skid plate but replaced (and raptor lined) both the gas tank and front skid plates. My initial thought was to replace the skid plates with an aftermarket aluminum set to keep them from rusting while also giving the undercarriage more protection. However, everyone I talk to who went aluminum encouraged me to go steel instead. Steel is cheaper, offers stronger protection and is easier to repair. While I can’t see myself rock crawling this 100 anytime soon, (although I always loved the idea of SASing a USDM 100 series), steel may be a better selection for those reasons. I have also considered just replacing the middle plate with a new (used rust free) OEM middle if I can find one. Spending ~$2k for aftermarket skid plates seems silly if I am not really off-roading it, and makes an OEM replacement appealing (at the right price
).With the above items addressed, I believe the 100 will be a problem free daily for at least a few years. I love this vehicle in its “stock” form but after our OBX trip there are a few “wants” that would increase our appreciation for the 100.
Larger gas tank: Would love to have the extra range for exploring (and cannonballing to the trailhead). I am not interested in carrying extra gas cans or moving the spare tire. This means the best solution is a larger main gas tank.
The only “bolt on” option available for the UZJ100 in the US currently is the Long Range America replacement ~40Gal (1.6x capacity) tank but it is only for the 1998-2004 UZJ100s. A fellow Mudder installed it on their 2007 UZJ100 and documented in a thread (https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/lra-40g-main-tank-05-install.1337486/page-6Reading this thread) that I have been following. Their install required some work around and modification of the new tank. Additionally, I have heard disappointing things about the components (notably the hoses) supplied from fellow Yota enthusiasts. Currently, this tank seems like more hassle than it's worth to me, but a larger main gas tank is something I am very interested pursuing.
Dual battery: The ARB fridge does drain the battery and stops running once it sits for more than a few days. Never to the point of needing a battery charge or jump but having the extra electrical power would be nice. Considering the dual battery system over a solar charger for cosmetic purposes. I do not want a solar panel mounted on the hood or taking up valuable roof space. Unfortunately, there is no aux battery tray offered on the aftermarket for those of us who have retained our AHC. This means all of us with AHC fabricate aux battery trays then relocated the PS reservoir and some electronic modules to mount the aux battery between the airbox and AHC. That would be my plan, coupled with an off the shelf battery management system.
The goal of all this work is has been to get the 100 in a state where it is not a project vehicle for me and make room for my other project Toyotas.
Very much looking forward to having this vehicle dialed and I feel very close to that point! Cheers! 
Just wanted to say this is a great build thread! Good to know about the headlights too. Also wild to see this is one of the rare late model Land Cruisers that has the AHC. Very cool.
AHC: I along with many others are a huge fan as long as you aren't planning on doing any really intense off-roading. And yes, flush the fluid and get new globes from Japan (Impex or MOTORS HEAD JAPAN | Export Japanese Auto, Diesel, Motorcycle Parts - https://www.parts-sale.jp/). I'm assuming your grads are low given the mileage. It does seem like given your location with rust the metal lines might be more of an issue that others in the sunbelt don't have. But you seem to be taking the rust situation seriously so you might be fine here.
Tans Fluid: Nothing wrong with doing the ~4 quarts at each oil change where you just drain from the oil drain. The fluid transfer method was also really easy for me with my 4AT. Very easy to get to the hose that feeds into the cooler. Just let it pump out a quart, turn the engine off, and then put in a quart and repeat for 10-15 quarts. Just make sure you get the correct Mobil 1 Syn ATF fluid.
Heater Ts: I discovered those metal versions after replacing mine with fresh OEM plastic. The brass ones didn't seem like a good idea given the diameters seemed off. But those you posted seemed to match exactly. Curious how yours work for you. Also, you will probably hear this from others, but the worm clamps don't seem to be recommended around here. The OEM Toyota clamps seem to be the way to go. I'm guessing you will be fine, but just wanted to make a friendly call out as you otherwise seem to be using OEM parts everywhere else.
AHC: I along with many others are a huge fan as long as you aren't planning on doing any really intense off-roading. And yes, flush the fluid and get new globes from Japan (Impex or MOTORS HEAD JAPAN | Export Japanese Auto, Diesel, Motorcycle Parts - https://www.parts-sale.jp/). I'm assuming your grads are low given the mileage. It does seem like given your location with rust the metal lines might be more of an issue that others in the sunbelt don't have. But you seem to be taking the rust situation seriously so you might be fine here.
Tans Fluid: Nothing wrong with doing the ~4 quarts at each oil change where you just drain from the oil drain. The fluid transfer method was also really easy for me with my 4AT. Very easy to get to the hose that feeds into the cooler. Just let it pump out a quart, turn the engine off, and then put in a quart and repeat for 10-15 quarts. Just make sure you get the correct Mobil 1 Syn ATF fluid.
Heater Ts: I discovered those metal versions after replacing mine with fresh OEM plastic. The brass ones didn't seem like a good idea given the diameters seemed off. But those you posted seemed to match exactly. Curious how yours work for you. Also, you will probably hear this from others, but the worm clamps don't seem to be recommended around here. The OEM Toyota clamps seem to be the way to go. I'm guessing you will be fine, but just wanted to make a friendly call out as you otherwise seem to be using OEM parts everywhere else.
Great build !
- Thread starter
- #29
Thank you!
I have not seen many similarly spec'd 100s while browsing FBMP and certainly not many in the wild of my part of the world.I have read about some owners replacing it and regretting it. Would be curious to drive astock non-AHC example and compare to the AHC. For me the benefit of deleting AHC is increasing reliability. I believe this can be done without deleting the AHC. Rust is more of a concern when maintaining this AHC system. I have also considered replacing the shocks, lines, control arms too but maybe that is not worthwhile.
I am leaning towards the drain and fill method during each oil change. A flush would be nice as it more of a standalone "one-and-done" service, this means less to do during my oil changes. Ultimately I'd like to do whatever is best for the vehicle and there is no "right" choice here it seems
Good to know, appreciate the heads ups. I bet over tightening those kind of clamps can become a problem overtime. That has been what i have seen/experienced. I believe in using the torque spec of "just past snug" for that reason
if the FSM doesn't have one. Replacing the headers Ts was definitely a good thing to do before our trip since one broke when I took it apart. Unfortunately the OEM clamps and hoses did not arrive on time. I did not like the brass Ts for the same reason! When it comes to parts (and labor) on my LCs, I'm admittedly particular 
given my experience with LCs and other Yotas using Mr.T parts. No complaints with my new off-brand Ts, they look identical to OEM (i now the OEMs in my spare bin).
Great build from another northeaster 
