Builds 2002 HZJ79 Double Cab Firetruck

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The gentleman selling the motor to me finally was able to pull it out 2 weeks out from my planned arrival to pick it up. I vowed not to drive the 79 in the winter...but duty called to use it while my Toyota Pickup sat and awaited a 22R rebuild.
Drive down to Kamloops was really easy, with minimal snow on the highway. Arrived and managed to squeeze in a visit with @JDMBC.
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The next day it was time to pick up the motor. Got it loaded up with a backhoe.
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All prepped for a return journey home. Unfortunately an accident involving injury on the highway had closed a section for investigation. Had to return to Kamloops and take the longer journey via Banff.
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Ran into some snowy conditions that made travel slow going. With the weighted rear end, I had tons of traction with my JDM Bridgstone snow tires.
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Arrived back home a whole day later due to the highway closures / detour.
Gave the motor a quick wash and set it away to storage for a while.
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Trip total distance: 1893 km
Burned 251.2L of diesel
Fuel average: 13.27 L/100km
 
First batch of goods from Aus started to trickle in this past winter.
I found part numbers for some unique Australian Toyota market accessories fitting the 79.
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Headlight covers and a hood (bonnet) deflector. Wish I had the headlight covers installed earlier, as I noticed a decent rock chip on my passenger side marker light.
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I decided to upgrade the clutch for a 300mm version for the future H152 swap. Found an Exedy Safari Tuff clutch with up-rated clamping force, hopefully it will be adequate to handle the increase in torque.
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Along with this shipment came a set of SAAS gauges and an A-Pillar dual gauge holder. Got a gauge for Boost and EGT's.
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Awesome stuff! Can't wait until this thread is up-to-date!
Any chances you have those Australia-market deflector part numbers handy? I've looked but came up empty.
 
I decided to upgrade the clutch for a 300mm version for the future H152 swap. Found an Exedy Safari Tuff clutch with up-rated clamping force, hopefully it will be adequate to handle the increase in torque.
Just going to the 300mm should be enough, but going to a HD clutch as well doesn't hurt.

Gosh, you are really going to town with this unit! Love it, and it looks like it is coming along nicely. :cheers:
 
Awesome stuff! Can't wait until this thread is up-to-date!
Any chances you have those Australia-market deflector part numbers handy? I've looked but came up empty.
Here are numbers:

PZQ15-60030 - Bonnet Protector for a narrow nose 70 series
PZQ14-60030 - Headlight covers for a 1999+ narrow nose 70 series

Edit: Slowly getting there with being up to date! More photos and build info incoming.
 
Just going to the 300mm should be enough, but going to a HD clutch as well doesn't hurt.

Gosh, you are really going to town with this unit! Love it, and it looks like it is coming along nicely. :cheers:
Yeah that's true. I found a really good deal through LSI Auto Parts out of Aus for this Exedy clutch kit - it actually came out cheaper than going with a standard rated clutch.

Thank you! Doing my best to build something that will suit my needs.
 
The next shipment from Aus was the PDI Intercooler kit to fit the 1HDT with a Holset HX30 Super. The turbo inlet diameter is 4", PDI included the proper inlet tube to make it all fit onto an HDJ80 series top air cleaner lid.
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The hardware, piping and silicone in the kit looks to be all of high quality. Looking forward to the install of it in the future.
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I also found a dash mat to protect the clean dash in the 79, I often toss my phone up there and cringed every time it slid around on the metal.
Fitment seems great-I opted to just rest the mat onto the dash, but you can velcro it on if you choose to.
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Lastly, I have been keeping an eye out for a complete A/C kit from a wrecked narrow nose 70 series in Australia. After a few hot days spent in BC on the highway I made the install of A/C a priority for the upcoming summer season. The guys at SouthWest wreckers did a fabulous job of wrapping everything up and bagging all the items up nicely. The box looks like it had a rough journey, but so far the components look like they came out unscathed.
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The H152 finally had arrived from Japan! Brought it straight into the house and onto the dining room table to start disassembly of it.
Tech Tip: Don't forget to drain the gear oil in it that Toyota leaves in it.
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It's a shame you can't buy them without the bell housing that fits the 1VD motor.
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Disassembly is pretty straight forward, the 80 series FSM details it well or any newer 70 series manual.
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Cleaning the FIPG is the most tedious part of the whole process.
 
Eventually you start splitting the case halves, some gentle prying and soft dead blows helps get them apart.
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I opted to not reuse the front input bearing since I do not have the tools to pull it properly. There's some risk in damaging the bearing during this process, so instead I installed a new one onto the 1HD## input shaft.
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Make sure to put plenty of gear oil on the synchro that mates to the input shaft. In the 80 series FSM this step is not mentioned, but in the 70 series FSM it is - if you don't you end up with a synchro that grabs / sticks.
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Used some grease to hold the roller bearings that ride inside of the input shaft.
 
Here's a side by side comparison of the input shafts.
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Make sure the input shaft bearing gets pressed on with the groove facing forward so the snap ring can fit in it after the case halves are re-installed.
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Eventually you're ready for re-install. Do a quick spin to make sure everything moves freely.
Fresh FIPG being laid down is a bit therapeutic.
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After getting the transmission all completed, it was time to get the HF1A transfer case sorted.
Placed an order on MegaZip, package arrived in good condition with no damage. Ordered the 6 bolts that hold the tcase to the transmission as well.
No paper gasket or FIPG to mate the tcase in this application.
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If possible would you be able to grab the dimensions of the bearing. OD, ID, thickness and the length of the input shaft?
 
If possible would you be able to grab the dimensions of the bearing. OD, ID, thickness and the length of the input shaft?
Input shaft bearing (Koyo #SB1012 30-05 15)
ID: 49mm
OD: 115mm
Thickness: 32mm

I can't provide input shaft length for 1H## application since it's long ago installed in the transmission / vehicle.
 
Input shaft bearing (Koyo #SB1012 30-05 15)
ID: 49mm
OD: 115mm
Thickness: 32mm

I can't provide input shaft length for 1H## application since it's long ago installed in the transmission / vehicle.
Great thank you!
 
Warmer weather had arrived with Spring, I began to work on preparing the 1HDT for the upcoming swap. The previous owner suggested I should do the timing belt and the o-ring for the dip stick tube. I bought a few extra items to cosmetically improve the motor. A new power steering reservoir was another item I wanted to replace, since the PO built a custom unit to fit his FMIC in his HDJ81.
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The belt was found to be in really good shape still, it had about 36K km on it. A change out was worth it for cheap peace of mind.
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New plastic caps for the glow plugs.
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Finished up with a new timing belt cover as well.
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Got the motor loaded up for a shot trip to my friend's shop to start the swap.
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I received a complete t-case shifter assembly package from Dave @Japan4X4. Basically a lego kit for adults with a lot of items. A repair manual for an HDJ79 guides the assembly process if the EPC diagram isn't clear enough.
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Filled the entire back seat with new parts that I had accumulated since December awaiting the big day!
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Last odometer reading before separating the original drive line.
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Final picture of the original underhood arrangement before we got to business.
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The H152 and HF1A awaiting to get mated and prepped for final install.
 
What felt like a very short amount of time, we got all the fluids drained from the motor, tranny and t-case. All electrical connections removed or unplugged to free the motor and transmission from the body. Yanked the ARB off to make it a lot easier to bounce around the front end to do all of this. My buddy snagged a pic of me showing the progress.
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After that it was time to lift the truck up and remove the tranny / t-case from the motor. I had already disconnected the PTO linkage beforehand.
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Tranny came out really smoothly. Removed the PTO flange from the housing to gain a few extra inches of clearance from the cross member.
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I got the new tranny and bellhousing bolted together and clutch fork / release bearing set up. It's been a real treat working with all new parts that are clean and ready for immediate install.
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Barely after getting the tranny out, the motor was ready for removal too. The shop forklift came in really handy with this procedure.
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And just like that...drivetrain all removed. It was a bit sad to see the 1HZ no longer planted in its original home.
 
Boom time to move the heart to a new high heart I guess :P Good work keep those pic ans update coming love it
 

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