- Thread starter
- #141
Thank you!Boom time to move the heart to a new high heart I guessGood work keep those pic ans update coming love it
Yes, the "high heart" will heal this one.
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Yes, the "high heart" will heal this one.
- Thread starter
- #142
The next step was to swap over a many items over from the 1HZ onto the 1HDT. A lot easier to do when both motors are right next to each other.
Kept a few pictures of my EGR vacuum routing to keep as a reference to plug back in to prevent the annoying glow plug light on the dash (check engine light) for the EGR system in the 1HZ.
I also had to swap the oil pans and oil pickup screens. The 1HZ oil pan has a oil level sensor in the pan, I was careful not to touch it while cleaning the gasket surface of the pan. No baffles also...a first for me.
Finished swapping over all the parts that I wanted to keep from the 1HZ onto the 1HDT and vice-versa. I had pre-sold the 1HZ a few months prior to pulling it out. Now it sits ready for the new owner to convert his FJ80 into an HZJ80.
We opted to open up the injection pump to make sure there were no cracked o-rings. A lot easier to do now then when the pump is in the truck. Everything looked pretty decent inside. This pump has a modified anerioid fuel pin in it already. We didn't touch any of those settings and just left as it was tuned by the PO.
Kept a few pictures of my EGR vacuum routing to keep as a reference to plug back in to prevent the annoying glow plug light on the dash (check engine light) for the EGR system in the 1HZ.
I also had to swap the oil pans and oil pickup screens. The 1HZ oil pan has a oil level sensor in the pan, I was careful not to touch it while cleaning the gasket surface of the pan. No baffles also...a first for me.
Finished swapping over all the parts that I wanted to keep from the 1HZ onto the 1HDT and vice-versa. I had pre-sold the 1HZ a few months prior to pulling it out. Now it sits ready for the new owner to convert his FJ80 into an HZJ80.
We opted to open up the injection pump to make sure there were no cracked o-rings. A lot easier to do now then when the pump is in the truck. Everything looked pretty decent inside. This pump has a modified anerioid fuel pin in it already. We didn't touch any of those settings and just left as it was tuned by the PO.
- Thread starter
- #143
While I had the engine out, it gave me the perfect opportunity to install a block heater in the 1HDT.
I will create a Tech Post on this topic since the information about a block heater for a 1HZ or 1HDT is not very clear here on Mud.
Part #: C0140-00126-S2 $43.17 CAD from ENS Toyota in Saskatoon (Made in Canada Part)
Conversing with the parts tech, he gave me direction on how and where to install the block heater element.
"My engine technician told me that facing the truck they install the block heater on the
back right corner. He said you might have to put the element in a vise to bend it slightly
so it can fit in the hole."
I followed his directions, and it worked perfectly. Add a little bit of lube on the o-ring and with some gentle pressure it falls right into place.
Removal of the frost plug wasn't too bad, if you strike the plug too hard into the block- don't worry it wont fall very far. You may encounter difficulty with bending the tabs to retrieve it through the hole.
This is what comes in the box. I find the length of the cord to be a little too short for my liking. I'll have to buy a longer one.
Hope this posts helps someone looking for block heater placement on a 1HZ or 1HDT. I have no clue if it will fit a 1HDFT/E.
I will create a Tech Post on this topic since the information about a block heater for a 1HZ or 1HDT is not very clear here on Mud.
Part #: C0140-00126-S2 $43.17 CAD from ENS Toyota in Saskatoon (Made in Canada Part)
Conversing with the parts tech, he gave me direction on how and where to install the block heater element.
"My engine technician told me that facing the truck they install the block heater on the
back right corner. He said you might have to put the element in a vise to bend it slightly
so it can fit in the hole."
I followed his directions, and it worked perfectly. Add a little bit of lube on the o-ring and with some gentle pressure it falls right into place.
Removal of the frost plug wasn't too bad, if you strike the plug too hard into the block- don't worry it wont fall very far. You may encounter difficulty with bending the tabs to retrieve it through the hole.
This is what comes in the box. I find the length of the cord to be a little too short for my liking. I'll have to buy a longer one.
Hope this posts helps someone looking for block heater placement on a 1HZ or 1HDT. I have no clue if it will fit a 1HDFT/E.
- Thread starter
- #145
Been a bit busy here on my end.
Let's get back on track...
Next up was flywheel and clutch install. Ordering all new components, I made sure I bought all the little bits that count to make the install a breeze- dowel pins for clutch pressure plate and appropriate hardware to hold down the pressure plate. The 300 mm flywheel uses M8 bolts, whereas the 275 mm flywheel behind the 1HZ uses M6 bolts.
Clutch kit came with a clutch centering tool thankfully!
All torqued down and ready for further assembly.
My buddy helping me really wanted to get the motor running before tossing it into the engine bay to make pump timing adjustments easier since we had the IP out earlier. So the transmission got bolted onto the bellhousing, some gear oil got filled into the transmission, a fuel source was attached to the IP and a few batteries to power the fuel cut solenoid and starter. After purging the air out of the injector lines, I got to hear the 1HDT run in person at last! Did some minor adjustments to dial in the IP timing. Got the motor running really smooth.
Disconnected the starter and all the extra items that made the motor run. Getting it prepped for re-installation. The Holset HX30 Super turbo is only oil cooled, so the coolant line got plugged off. We also ran the old vacuum line that hides behind the timing belt assembly from the 1HZ so it would look more factory. The PDI inlet tube is massive for the 4" inlet of the turbo.
Engine bay of the 79 got pressure washed in preparation for install of the 1HDT. The unloaded front suspension looks a lot taller without a bullbar and drive-line weighing it down.
Let's get back on track...
Next up was flywheel and clutch install. Ordering all new components, I made sure I bought all the little bits that count to make the install a breeze- dowel pins for clutch pressure plate and appropriate hardware to hold down the pressure plate. The 300 mm flywheel uses M8 bolts, whereas the 275 mm flywheel behind the 1HZ uses M6 bolts.
Clutch kit came with a clutch centering tool thankfully!
All torqued down and ready for further assembly.
My buddy helping me really wanted to get the motor running before tossing it into the engine bay to make pump timing adjustments easier since we had the IP out earlier. So the transmission got bolted onto the bellhousing, some gear oil got filled into the transmission, a fuel source was attached to the IP and a few batteries to power the fuel cut solenoid and starter. After purging the air out of the injector lines, I got to hear the 1HDT run in person at last! Did some minor adjustments to dial in the IP timing. Got the motor running really smooth.
Disconnected the starter and all the extra items that made the motor run. Getting it prepped for re-installation. The Holset HX30 Super turbo is only oil cooled, so the coolant line got plugged off. We also ran the old vacuum line that hides behind the timing belt assembly from the 1HZ so it would look more factory. The PDI inlet tube is massive for the 4" inlet of the turbo.
Engine bay of the 79 got pressure washed in preparation for install of the 1HDT. The unloaded front suspension looks a lot taller without a bullbar and drive-line weighing it down.
- Thread starter
- #146
It was getting late that night, but we were both determined to get the motor back into the engine bay.
With some careful lining up and guidance, we got the motor landed in place quite quickly.
I made some quick cuts in the tranny tunnel cover to accommodate the different shifter location of the H152 shift tower.
This section will be later replaced, don't worry I won't leave it looking like that permanently.
Got the tcase bolted in. The new case uses 6 bolts only and mounting it up behind the transmission was drama free. Ran into a bit of a hurdle, it was unknown if the crossmember transmission mount would fit from the old tranny so I didn't buy a new one...turns out it doesn't. I added that to my list of needed parts for the next order. To my surprise and delight, both driveshafts fit perfectly- stoked I was able to save some money on those! My buddy got a speedo gear assembly from an 80series and it popped right into the tcase. I had also swapped over my reverse switch and 4WD indicator switch so my factory plugs would continue to work without needing to swap connectors.
The next day we got the rest of the underhood items plugged back in. Refilled the coolant system with Toyota red and replenished the motor with fresh T6 Rotella 5W-40 oil.
Kicked the 79 outside so we could start it up and get it up to running temperature. We bled the air out of the cooling and power steering systems.
Watched for any leaks, thankfully none were found. Confident in all of the re-assembly it was time for more new parts to be installed.
With some careful lining up and guidance, we got the motor landed in place quite quickly.
I made some quick cuts in the tranny tunnel cover to accommodate the different shifter location of the H152 shift tower.
This section will be later replaced, don't worry I won't leave it looking like that permanently.
Got the tcase bolted in. The new case uses 6 bolts only and mounting it up behind the transmission was drama free. Ran into a bit of a hurdle, it was unknown if the crossmember transmission mount would fit from the old tranny so I didn't buy a new one...turns out it doesn't. I added that to my list of needed parts for the next order. To my surprise and delight, both driveshafts fit perfectly- stoked I was able to save some money on those! My buddy got a speedo gear assembly from an 80series and it popped right into the tcase. I had also swapped over my reverse switch and 4WD indicator switch so my factory plugs would continue to work without needing to swap connectors.
The next day we got the rest of the underhood items plugged back in. Refilled the coolant system with Toyota red and replenished the motor with fresh T6 Rotella 5W-40 oil.
Kicked the 79 outside so we could start it up and get it up to running temperature. We bled the air out of the cooling and power steering systems.
Watched for any leaks, thankfully none were found. Confident in all of the re-assembly it was time for more new parts to be installed.
- Thread starter
- #147
Next last big step was getting the FMIC from PDI all set up. Since the Holset turbo is not a commonly used option, I was a bit worried that all the piping might not work out for us. Fortunately only one stainless pipe had to get slightly shortened and with a new clamp rib- it looked like it was never touched. The 80 series air cleaner lid fit decently... one hold down clamp was not in the most ideal spot, but I was able to make it work.
It was about lunch time now. I was itching to take the truck for a drive with the FMIC installed. We found some 3" pipe laying around, welded the v-band ring around it so we could make a temporary downpipe off of the turbo. The exhaust sounded amazing. Got a few long stares as we drove around with no hood, bumper and front grill. The immediate difference in torque was surreal. I had a huge grim stretched across my face that was really hard to get rid of.
The last real challenge was to shave the plastic grill to fit in front of the intercooler. The instructions weren't the best, so we freehanded it slowly removing material to achieve the proper clearance. Ended up using a large flapper disc on a grinder to shave away bit by bit.
After what felt like a really long time and a large pile of melted plastic material on the floor...we were able to fit the grill back into place.
To finish it off for the day, the ARB bullbar got re-installed along with the hood and headlight covers. It was a busy weekend, but we managed to accomplish a lot. Really happy with the result and how smoothly everything went despite such a big changeover of parts.
The rest of the wiring and tidying up of things will keep me busy still.
It was about lunch time now. I was itching to take the truck for a drive with the FMIC installed. We found some 3" pipe laying around, welded the v-band ring around it so we could make a temporary downpipe off of the turbo. The exhaust sounded amazing. Got a few long stares as we drove around with no hood, bumper and front grill. The immediate difference in torque was surreal. I had a huge grim stretched across my face that was really hard to get rid of.
The last real challenge was to shave the plastic grill to fit in front of the intercooler. The instructions weren't the best, so we freehanded it slowly removing material to achieve the proper clearance. Ended up using a large flapper disc on a grinder to shave away bit by bit.
After what felt like a really long time and a large pile of melted plastic material on the floor...we were able to fit the grill back into place.
To finish it off for the day, the ARB bullbar got re-installed along with the hood and headlight covers. It was a busy weekend, but we managed to accomplish a lot. Really happy with the result and how smoothly everything went despite such a big changeover of parts.
The rest of the wiring and tidying up of things will keep me busy still.
Nice, I used the same plastic grill to fit over the intercooler on my 85 Ute
Great work! I bet that was a satisfying day.
So, does the 1HD-T live up to expectations? Is it a significant change for the 1HZ? Would love to do the same my 79.
- Thread starter
- #150
The end result was very satisfying!
It does! It feels like a completely different vehicle now. I'm able to just leave it in 5th gear and cruise along happily at 110-120 km/hr and pass other vehicles without worrying about the amount of time to do it in. This particular 1HDT is not stock, it has had some pump alterations done to it, along with an upgraded turbo - so my experience is a bit altered.
I would recommend this swap 100%.
Wonderful project. Really enjoying seeing the progress.
Re the 1HD-T transplant, I second that. My 105 with the 1HD-T transplant makes it perfectly fine in traffic. Not speedy. But fine. It is a big truck and people and just go around it or do something else, but with 500k km 1HZ it was just a little uncomfortably slow. I have another 1HZ vehicle coming, ostensibly with only 99k km on the clock and I am looking forward to see if a relatively low mileage 1HZ feels different in traffic.
Re the 1HD-T transplant, I second that. My 105 with the 1HD-T transplant makes it perfectly fine in traffic. Not speedy. But fine. It is a big truck and people and just go around it or do something else, but with 500k km 1HZ it was just a little uncomfortably slow. I have another 1HZ vehicle coming, ostensibly with only 99k km on the clock and I am looking forward to see if a relatively low mileage 1HZ feels different in traffic.
That's great!The end result was very satisfying!
It does! It feels like a completely different vehicle now. I'm able to just leave it in 5th gear and cruise along happily at 110-120 km/hr and pass other vehicles without worrying about the amount of time to do it in. This particular 1HDT is not stock, it has had some pump alterations done to it, along with an upgraded turbo - so my experience is a bit altered.
Wow – 120 kph is pretty quick for ol' cruiser like ours... Good for you man. Quite the transformation
I wonder if the length of the H152 differs from the H150/151 and that's why you didn't need to adjust the drive shafts?
Did you buy the cross mount for a VDJ79 to mount the transmission?
You have me looking at engines now. Found a 1HD-FT that I can't afford but want
- Thread starter
- #154
Thank you, as you know yourself its a long journey to get a truck built and transformed into something that will meet your needs.
Exactly, at the end of the day this is a Land Cruiser not a Land Speeder. Being able to merge onto highways and keep pace with the flow of traffic really helps and eases any stress with operating the 79. My low mileage 1HZ was not bad in all honesty. The 1HZ doesn't fair well when you need to maintain 110 km/hr or more, it can do it- but it won't be fun. I don't have any interstate style highways here in Alberta - our fastest moving road is rated at 110km/hr but to stay with traffic you're usually driving 115-120 km/hr. I found the 1HZ struggled with that kind of speed. As soon as I got to some slower, winding roads it handled that driving style very well. Long hills were also a challenge, often requiring me to gear down to build up the revs and stay in the power band.
With the 1HDT this is all but a long forgotten dilemma- I now can maintain traffic flow, pass comfortably and the need to downshift is almost nonexistent.
- Thread starter
- #155
It sure is! The drop in RPM's has also been nice. At 100km/hr it sits about 2100 RPM in 5th gear.That's great!
Wow – 120 kph is pretty quick for ol' cruiser like ours... Good for you man. Quite the transformation
I wonder if the length of the H152 differs from the H150/151 and that's why you didn't need to adjust the drive shafts?
Did you buy the cross mount for a VDJ79 to mount the transmission?
You have me looking at engines now. Found a 1HD-FT that I can't afford but want
No, the length of the physical transmission is the same (once you swap out the input shaft & retainer). This truck previously had an R series transmission.
I was able to reuse my steel cross mount but the rubber isolator that bolts to the transmission had to be bought to properly fit the H152 profile.
I also contemplated finding a 1HDFT, but they're not nearly as popular so the price seems to be a bit steeper over a 1HDT.
- Thread starter
- #156
I drove a FJ40 and a 22R powered pickup as a daily for many years, I'm well versed in strategic passing or drafting on highways with those two vehicles.@Kroll ….. “pass other vehicles without worrying about the amount of time to do it in”.
————————————————————————————
For those of us that may never experience this “passing thing” you speak of, would you mind filming it?
I'll see what I can do to fulfill that request.
- Thread starter
- #157
Next up I dealt with wiring. I wanted to clean up a bit of things underhood while returning power to the aux lights and winch when they were removed for motor install. I also took the time to install the SAAS gauges and A-pillar pod that I got back in the winter.
I needed some switched power, so I made a power signal wire from the cigarette lighter and I also ran a wire from the cigarette lighter illumination bulb to act as a "lights on" wire for the gauges. I opted to run the aux mounted push buttons that SAAS offers to make it easier to program the gauges without having to pull them out and press the button behind them.
I bought a manual boost controller from Power Driven Diesel. I plumbed the two lines into the cab through the firewall. This will allow me to tune my max boost pressures on the fly without having to stop and open the hood. The previous owner of the 1HDT ran about 25-26 psi, I plan to aim for the same once I know what my EGT's are showing.
With some 3M double sided tape i affixed it. The knob is easy to turn on the fly and requires minimal effort to dial it in.
I was disappointed at first that my boost gauge was faulty since it wouldn't produce any boost values. I was able to program it to my liking, but no live data being produced. I contacted SAAS in Australia via email, a few hours later a bloke sent me a message saying the gauge must have been set in DEMO mode. I watched a quick youtube video that was included in the email and I got it reverted to normal operating mode. I hadn't plumbed the boost controller yet, but off the turbo's wastegate I was seeing 21 psi as max boost. I left it at that for the time being as I got acquainted with the new display info that I was able to capture now. So far normal driving around the city I get the EGT's up to about 330C, with heavier throttle I have seen 460C. I'm looking forward to see what temps I will get on the highway and hilly mountainous driving.
I needed some switched power, so I made a power signal wire from the cigarette lighter and I also ran a wire from the cigarette lighter illumination bulb to act as a "lights on" wire for the gauges. I opted to run the aux mounted push buttons that SAAS offers to make it easier to program the gauges without having to pull them out and press the button behind them.
I bought a manual boost controller from Power Driven Diesel. I plumbed the two lines into the cab through the firewall. This will allow me to tune my max boost pressures on the fly without having to stop and open the hood. The previous owner of the 1HDT ran about 25-26 psi, I plan to aim for the same once I know what my EGT's are showing.
With some 3M double sided tape i affixed it. The knob is easy to turn on the fly and requires minimal effort to dial it in.
I was disappointed at first that my boost gauge was faulty since it wouldn't produce any boost values. I was able to program it to my liking, but no live data being produced. I contacted SAAS in Australia via email, a few hours later a bloke sent me a message saying the gauge must have been set in DEMO mode. I watched a quick youtube video that was included in the email and I got it reverted to normal operating mode. I hadn't plumbed the boost controller yet, but off the turbo's wastegate I was seeing 21 psi as max boost. I left it at that for the time being as I got acquainted with the new display info that I was able to capture now. So far normal driving around the city I get the EGT's up to about 330C, with heavier throttle I have seen 460C. I'm looking forward to see what temps I will get on the highway and hilly mountainous driving.
I'd be very interested in seeing exactly where you mounted the sensor for the EGT. With Mr. Blue I am seeing temps up to 600C under hard acceleration with boost around .75 bar (1100F and 11 PSI), which I think is pretty close to safe limits for the 1HD-T from my reading. But I am at the early state of learning this stuff. I will take a photo of where the sensor is on my truck the next time I am out.
- Thread starter
- #159
The previous owner already drilled and tapped a hole to for the EGT probe pre-turbo in the middle of the exhaust manifold. You can see my new probe sticking out vertically from the heat shield. The most accurate placement of the probe should be pre-turbo, since post turbo temps can be 100-200C lower.
600C is not bad, even a short burst of 650C is not terrible - you just don't want to see those temps sustained for more than a few seconds. I have set my alarm limits for 650C (1200F), I feel comfortable with those kinds of temperatures.
- Thread starter
- #160
My appointment for exhaust post-motor swap was the next important box to check off.
I decided to do a full 3" stainless exhaust with v-bands. The turbo outlet was already a v-band flange, and I have had great success with them when we use them on our rally car exhausts I decided to do the same here. I was able to fit the down pipe within the frame rails, allowing for a nice smooth long run of pipe towards the rear.
Got a flex pipe added in before the next v-band connection.
I had to trim / remove some of the sound deadening material attached to the plastic skid that covers the transmission & tcase.
I really only wanted to put a resonator instead of a muffler....but then I reminded myself I have grown out of the loud truck phase.
A high flow 3" magnaflow muffler was fitted vertically, making it stay tucked up and away from any potential damage.
I wanted a side dump again, since the SET tray fenders need to be notched in order to run the exhaust fully to the rear, but this time I got the side dump on passenger side. The drone / exhaust echo from being on the driver side annoyed me when driving alongside road barriers.
I also plan to add some rocksliders in the future, so I asked for some clearance- hoping it's enough...
I decided to do a full 3" stainless exhaust with v-bands. The turbo outlet was already a v-band flange, and I have had great success with them when we use them on our rally car exhausts I decided to do the same here. I was able to fit the down pipe within the frame rails, allowing for a nice smooth long run of pipe towards the rear.
Got a flex pipe added in before the next v-band connection.
I had to trim / remove some of the sound deadening material attached to the plastic skid that covers the transmission & tcase.
I really only wanted to put a resonator instead of a muffler....but then I reminded myself I have grown out of the loud truck phase.
A high flow 3" magnaflow muffler was fitted vertically, making it stay tucked up and away from any potential damage.
I wanted a side dump again, since the SET tray fenders need to be notched in order to run the exhaust fully to the rear, but this time I got the side dump on passenger side. The drone / exhaust echo from being on the driver side annoyed me when driving alongside road barriers.
I also plan to add some rocksliders in the future, so I asked for some clearance- hoping it's enough...
