Most Method 17" & 18" wheels are 25mm +/- offset, you won't need the spacers. I wouldn't go anything beyond 25mm offset personally
200 Series Tire and Wheel Size Database (42 Viewers)
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Most Method 17" & 18" wheels are 25mm +/- offset, you won't need the spacers. I wouldn't go anything beyond 25mm offset personally
Spacers are for people running larger tires with OEM wheels.
If you are getting new wheels get the the correct offset with the new wheels and then you don't need spacers.
You may want to think about if you want to run bead lock wheels or not. 17" are better off road and 18" is better on the road.
PhuckItImDone
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Yea, the move to 17s is because it sees more time offroad, and so just makes more sense. Losing the spacers is fine, more im lost in the offset, what's acceptable vs too much. I don't think bead locks are necessary yet.
The 18" OEM wheel has an offset of 60mm
If you add a spacer say 0.75" = 19mm then you push the wheel outward so you subtract 60 - 19 = 41mm offset
Rock Warrior Toyota 17" wheel have a 50mm offset
The amount of offset needed depends on the tire selected.
The general consensus is for an offset between 40mm and 25mm which will allow for 34" tires with minimal work needed to eliminate rubbing. The only exception to this would be the Toyota OEM Rock Warrior wheel which has an offset of 50mm. Depending on the tire width this could leave the sidewall very close to the upper control arm especially if using the stock arms. As far as I know, no aftermarket wheel has 50mm of offset and the Rock Warriors are long discontinued and hard to source.
25 for more poke w up to standard width tires (285/11.2’s, 35 to be able to run the thinnest to widest tires (315/12.50’s) while still keeping the tires under the overhang of the fenders.
If you don’t mind risking jamming a tire into the overhang of the fender, you can run any offset you want-some run 35x12.50’s on 0 offset.
Theoretically you might be able to roll fenders on a 15 offset and still be inside the overhang of them w 285’s…though if you go to 15 offset, probably want to run 10.50” wide tires at the widest.
So yeah you should probably look for 25-35 offset, 2500 lb plus load limit, and less than 30 lbs wheel weight.
The 17” method 705 w 35 offset, imo, is potentially the perfect aftermarket wheel for our vehicle.
PhuckItImDone
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I'll look at the 705, and keep the 25-35 offset in mind. I've fileted tires on other cars, so im not trying to do so on this. Trimming, molding, doesn't bother me, but pushing a tire into the fender on the trail just because isn't something I'm going for. The 34" tire seems to be the go to
285 75 r17 (33.9”) is the go to. 35 offset gives you the most “space” around the tire to make it least likely to hit stuff in the fender.
With a cooper at3 in that size and the 705’s, the total wheel weight is 82 lbs, which is within the oem specs for an lx570 wheel weight.
PhuckItImDone
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Awesome. I imagine same in LC?
Lc200 you run into issues w kdss…I don’t know what they do to make tires get around the kdss issue, but, I’ve heard, that wider offsets (0-25) help.
PhuckItImDone
SILVER Star
Superb.
PhuckItImDone
SILVER Star
I look at tire rack, and see 17" wheels with +15mm offset which would seem closer to where I wanna be, and apparently they'll fit, but then others here say no. Go to methods site, they have others with 0 offset that'll fit. I'm gonna spend forever confusing myself.
Adding more to the fire, offset is further complicated by suspension geometry. It's not just physical clearance as too much offset can reduce handling, cornering traction, and create steering pull making it more fatiguing to drive.
Lookup scrub radius on this forum.
TL;DR try sticking to 25-50 offset. Arguably, I'd recommend no less than +35
This is 15 offset and 35x10.50r17…tires narrow Enough to just, perhaps, fit under the fenders at this wide of an offset. I could probably fit 285’s (11.22”) wide tires if I rolled the fenders.
The following is not an exhaustive comparison of wide vs narrow offsets. And I may be incorrect. But based on my reading:
Wider offset can theoretically cause your vehicle to dart into puddles but also adds a benefit of being more stable.
Narrower offset will sort of stay the direction they’re pointing when in a hydroplaning situation but will make a vehicle more tippy.
You might think of it like walking through a tiled house barefoot…put your feet wider than shoulder width and you’re quite stable…but step on an oily patch and your foot darts that way and you fall down (wide offset).
Shuffle through the tiled floor area w feet right under you close together (narrow offset) and even if you step in an oily spot, your feet aren’t going to dart out from under you…but if you trip on something, youre less stable so more likely fall to tip over.
Walk w your feet at shoulder width (optimum scrub radius) and you somewhat reduce chances of slipping should you step in an oil spot but also somewhat reduce the chances you trip on something and tip over…
Since we aren’t Toyota engineers, we may not be able to ascertain what optimum scrub radius is, however…we know what they run (60 offset for a 31.3-32” tire and 50 offset for a 32.8” tire), but we don’t know how much the parameters were driven by being less tippy vs less slippy…or how much tucking the tires into the fenders for fuel economy may have come into play…or any other variables I (as a non engineer) cannot think of.
Further complicating things: Within the offsets we are considering, the differences may not even be noticeable (1” wider than shoulder width vs 1” narrower than shoulder width probably won’t have an appreciable difference on how tippy or slippy you are in a tiled oily/trippy floor for instance)….
you might liken it to the age old argument 9mm vs 45 acp. The differences may seem large on paper…but in practice their relative utility is comparable.
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PhuckItImDone
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Yea, it just seems to get more confusing. Scrub radius just further makes it more so. If im understanding it, 17 inch with 35 offset would be ideal?
Based on all the info I’ve read (for an lx570), all things considered, yes, a strong (2500 lb+ Load rating) 17” wheel which is relatively lightweight at 35 offset is ideal.
I went w 15 because the price was right mostly. My inner child is happy w 15 because a bit more poke is more, to me anyway, aesthetically pleasing.
I know probably not many readers of Sport Compact Car magazine in here, but back in the early '00s (or late 90's?) writer/editor Dave Coleman illustrated the idea scrub radius by defining an previously understood, but un-named concept. Draw an imaginary line between the two steering pivot points (upper ball joint and lower ball joint in a dual-a-arm suspension like ours, upper strut mount and lower ball joint in a MacPhereson strut setup). The point where that line intersects the ground is called the "Dave Point" and ideally should be in the center of the tire's contact patch. Greater scrub radius (0 offest wheels) will put the Dave Point inbound of the contact patch, smaller scrub radius (high-offset wheels on small tires) will put the Dave Point on the outside of the tire's contact patch. Dave Point dead center of the tire's contact patch is ideal for predictable handling.
When magazines went the way of the dinosaur, David Coleman was hired by Mazda as a suspension engineer for the speed3 and the new miata.
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PhuckItImDone
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Oh, im in an LC, so let me further complicate it. How's that change things?
If you stick w a 285 70 r17 (32.8”), I don’t think it complicates things with lc200.
If you go up to a 285 75 r17 (33.9”) you probably want to peruse this thread to see what offsets work with lc200 and it’s kdss:
BFG KO2 285/75r17
Gentlemen, the unicorn showed up. In my constant search of anything off-road related, I found that BFG added 285/75r17 to the KO2 line up. Part number 74713 Going to be a solid tire for the 200, and with BFG always being just a bit smaller than other brands, could give that bit extra of space...
forum.ih8mud.com
It doesn't affect anything as it pertains to geometry. The upper/lower control arms are the same between both models. Only the shock/spring is different. The only pertinent thing between LC and LX is the status of rub against the KDSS arm, of which the LX does not have to deal with.
Here's a nice picture describing what @Heckraiser posted. This is all covered here.
