200 Series Lift using Tundra front IFS and Icon shocks (2 Viewers)

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Not sure I'm understanding the 23mm cut and weld. If it's what I'm thinking, it'll change the motion ratio and effect the stiffness that KDSS imparts. In my mind, it'll greatly increase KDSS tension on the control arms which is probably not what more hardcore off-roaders want.

Seem to me, the standard relocation bracket is still the better solution. Combined with a modification to mount the end link out the outside of the basket of the LCA.
 
You'll need to do much thicker than 1/4" to handle the forces on the system. Note that the factory bar is approximately 1.25" thick in most places.
you are right, right after i hit post i was thinking 1/2" at min.
 
really needs a straight line between red dots. All mount holes still in same place .
And the lca bracket for kdss link.
Could it be modified so spaced out slightly to reduce binding.Like halfway between standard and on outside of bracket.

Screenshot_20230210_200209_Gallery.jpg
 
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I'm currently amassing parts for a combination of a body lift & tundra front end conversion on my 2016 land cruiser. I'm currently running +25mm offset wheels. Will I have any clearancing issues for the kdss arm on the driver side with the increased track width of the tundra front end components?
 
Also, what size wheel spacers is everyone using in the rear to match the front track width ?
 
With a Tundra conversion most guys are running wheels with OEM offset and using a 1.25" or 1.5" spacer in the rear only.
 
I'm currently amassing parts for a combination of a body lift & tundra front end conversion on my 2016 land cruiser. I'm currently running +25mm offset wheels. Will I have any clearancing issues for the kdss arm on the driver side with the increased track width of the tundra front end components?

With a Tundra conversion most guys are running wheels with OEM offset and using a 1.25" or 1.5" spacer in the rear only.
Yep. +50 wheels here and 1.5" spacers in the rear only. Tire (285/75R17) poke is dead even with the body. No contact on the KDSS arm.

With the +25 wheels there won't be any KDSS arm interference, but I'm guessing there will be body contact issues on turns and compression.
 
All of my parts have been ordered. The only thing I think I need now is the longer brake lines. I was going to order from Crown Performance, but wanted to make sure I get the right ones. Does anyone have a part number or info on that? Thanks in advance.
 
All of my parts have been ordered. The only thing I think I need now is the longer brake lines. I was going to order from Crown Performance, but wanted to make sure I get the right ones. Does anyone have a part number or info on that? Thanks in advance.
I used sdhq 2", they were perfect
 
All of my parts have been ordered. The only thing I think I need now is the longer brake lines. I was going to order from Crown Performance, but wanted to make sure I get the right ones. Does anyone have a part number or info on that? Thanks in advance.
Sweet, what offset will your wheels be ?
 
All of my parts have been ordered. The only thing I think I need now is the longer brake lines. I was going to order from Crown Performance, but wanted to make sure I get the right ones. Does anyone have a part number or info on that? Thanks in advance.
I may have an extra set, let me check.
 
Yep. +50 wheels here and 1.5" spacers in the rear only. Tire (285/75R17) poke is dead even with the body. No contact on the KDSS arm.

With the +25 wheels there won't be any KDSS arm interference, but I'm guessing there will be body contact issues on turns and compression.
According to wheel offset, +50mm with a 1.5" spacer is similar to a +25mm wheel with no spacer.
 
As you’re gathering parts, I’d recommend folks look at modifying the tundra LCA to double sheer the sway bar by extending the bucket out. I wish I had done that before installing as welding it up on the truck was a pain.
 
According to wheel offset, +50mm with a 1.5" spacer is similar to a +25mm wheel with no spacer.
The spacer is in the rear only, and the 25mm difference in offset is equivalent to 1" worth of spacer (similar, yes). The front (no spacer to cheat with) is where I foresee issues with rubbing with the +25mm offset, and the only solutions there (depending on where it rubs obvously) are limiting turning radius and limiting suspension compression. The rear is much easier because of course you can change spacer sizes, but unless wheels with differing offsets front>rear are used, you're kinda stuck.
 
All of my parts have been ordered. The only thing I think I need now is the longer brake lines. I was going to order from Crown Performance, but wanted to make sure I get the right ones. Does anyone have a part number or info on that? Thanks in advance.
crown edit.jpg


Lengths worked out great. Take note that mine are for '08-'11 per their description. Yes, they really are purple.
 
As you’re gathering parts, I’d recommend folks look at modifying the tundra LCA to double sheer the sway bar by extending the bucket out. I wish I had done that before installing as welding it up on the truck was a pain.
Could you please share a picture of your modification to the bucket? Thank you!
 
The spacer is in the rear only, and the 25mm difference in offset is equivalent to 1" worth of spacer (similar, yes). The front (no spacer to cheat with) is where I foresee issues with rubbing with the +25mm offset, and the only solutions there (depending on where it rubs obvously) are limiting turning radius and limiting suspension compression. The rear is much easier because of course you can change spacer sizes, but unless wheels with differing offsets front>rear are used, you're kinda stuck.
I'll also be incorporating a 1" body lift, so hopefully that will alleviate the amount of metal j have to remove to clearance the front 😨
 
Thank you for sharing the pic, it's very helpful! With the bucket modified, about how much further out does the link now sit from the LCA? Half an inch?

The pic looks like you've fine tuned the link's distance from the LCA to minimize binding--achieving an angle better than mounting the link inside or outside an unmodified OEM bucket.

Plus, as you pointed out, you have the added safety margin of a dual-shear mount for the link.
 

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