200 Series Lift using Tundra front IFS and Icon shocks (1 Viewer)

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I am on my 4th 200series and I was not a fan of the HE when it was announced. The gold looking wheels and the lack of cooler box was a no go for me. However, the grill, the blacked out light surrounds, and all black interior was very compelling but not enough for me to warrant an HE purchase vs. “base”. Now that I own a stinking HE, I much prefer it. I like the bronze wheel as it looks much better in person and the design gives it a more land cruiser “look” whatever that means. I’ve had method and Icon wheels but these BBS are just cool and a little more unique, especially when they are a little dirty. I really thought I’d miss the cooler box but now I really enjoy the extra storage it provides…huge plus and it’s one less thing to fail;) I never liked the jump seats. Fine for tiny people but let’s be real, they aren’t very useful. Get an Escalade or Navigator for real 3rd row. What people may not realize about the grill, is that it easily accommodates a recessed rigid light bar that won’t block air or need any customization. You can obviously order a heritage grill for a base model. The interior bronze stitching is a nice touch as well. The base model leather does feel nicer but I personally might prefer the “tougher”(no idea if it is) “less smooth” leather because it feels slightly more supportive. My lower back for some reason did not like my previous 3 cruisers as to why I probably sold them as much as I loved them. It’s no BMW X7 full merino leather seats but my back doesn’t complain.
 
Timbren makes some for the 200 also. Definitely not cheaper than the durobumps though...



Aussies use these bumpstops. Progressive and better clearance for 3.0 front struts

942CEAFC-AB62-47F4-9480-0DD26EB184DC.jpg
 
Aussies use these bumpstops. Progressive and better clearance for 3.0 front struts

View attachment 3067485

I'm guessing Superior Engineering just based on the color (?), but I don't see them listed on their site. Do you have a link for them? What do you like for a replacement bumpstop for the rear?
 
I'm guessing Superior Engineering just based on the color (?), but I don't see them listed on their site. Do you have a link for them? What do you like for a replacement bumpstop for the rear?

Superpro not Superior Engineering. We use airbags for rear so no bump stop in the spring
 
Superpro not Superior Engineering. We use airbags for rear so no bump stop in the spring
These ones?


Judging by the part number, I'm guessing there are different durometers available, but that's the only one I can find listed.
 
Well gang, i did it. I broke my lower sway bar link bolt on the drver side that was mounted outside the bracket. I checked back and for some reason I only used a class 8.8. I also did not have a sleeve inside the mount. Time to rectify both of those while I get time to fab up some better brackets. The 40 is stealing all of that time at the moment.

IMG_1650.jpg
 
Did it snap outside the mount or inside?
 
Were you able to get the rest out?
That is a problem for a different day! As soon as i get my dad's 100 on new cvs and out of my garage, I will start trying to extract the bolt. I drove it home on the windy roads of Big Bear and it wasnt too squirrly, but need to get it fixed before any more driving.
 
I am on my 4th 200series and I was not a fan of the HE when it was announced. The gold looking wheels and the lack of cooler box was a no go for me. However, the grill, the blacked out light surrounds, and all black interior was very compelling but not enough for me to warrant an HE purchase vs. “base”. Now that I own a stinking HE, I much prefer it. I like the bronze wheel as it looks much better in person and the design gives it a more land cruiser “look” whatever that means. I’ve had method and Icon wheels but these BBS are just cool and a little more unique, especially when they are a little dirty. I really thought I’d miss the cooler box but now I really enjoy the extra storage it provides…huge plus and it’s one less thing to fail;) I never liked the jump seats. Fine for tiny people but let’s be real, they aren’t very useful. Get an Escalade or Navigator for real 3rd row. What people may not realize about the grill, is that it easily accommodates a recessed rigid light bar that won’t block air or need any customization. You can obviously order a heritage grill for a base model. The interior bronze stitching is a nice touch as well. The base model leather does feel nicer but I personally might prefer the “tougher”(no idea if it is) “less smooth” leather because it feels slightly more supportive. My lower back for some reason did not like my previous 3 cruisers as to why I probably sold them as much as I loved them. It’s no BMW X7 full merino leather seats but my back doesn’t complain.
Which recessed rigid light bar with no customization for the HE are you speaking of?
 
Brainstorming here, hopefully folks can check my math. Cut the swaybar/shock brackets off the tundra arm (including the through-bolt), and reweld them approximately the same distance from the pivot as on the LC arm . Keep bump stops in the stock location. No actual change in actual up-travel (assume same ride height), but you would gain downtravel IF the inner/outer tie rods and CV don't bind. You would also move the shock back to the same angle as factory, relative to the mount. Would that also improve damping?
 
View attachment 2836131So close to having all the parts collected. Still waiting on the 4.88 gears. So while I wait, may try and get the parts for the tundra brakes.

-King 2.5 adjustable
-King 700lb springs
-Camburg UCA
-Craigslist OEM LCA
-OEM tie rods
-EBay OEM CV axles
-Spidertrax spacers

And the
-arb lockers front/rear
-nitro 4.88 gears

Going to be quite the transformation. Thanks to all who came before me.

Do you happen to have the part # for the King 700# coilovers? I have the Tundra spec Kings but they came with 600# coils and will likely need to bump it up to 700#'s. My Tundra spec Kings have 16" 600# coils on them (SPR3-16-600 C22).
 
Brainstorming here, hopefully folks can check my math. Cut the swaybar/shock brackets off the tundra arm (including the through-bolt), and reweld them approximately the same distance from the pivot as on the LC arm . Keep bump stops in the stock location. No actual change in actual up-travel (assume same ride height), but you would gain downtravel IF the inner/outer tie rods and CV don't bind. You would also move the shock back to the same angle as factory, relative to the mount. Would that also improve damping?
The lever arm ratios would all change and suddenly your spring rate and damping wouldn’t be adequate.. effectively the tire would have more leverage over the spring and shock than with the existing location.
 
Well gang, i did it. I broke my lower sway bar link bolt on the drver side that was mounted outside the bracket. I checked back and for some reason I only used a class 8.8. I also did not have a sleeve inside the mount. Time to rectify both of those while I get time to fab up some better brackets. The 40 is stealing all of that time at the moment.

View attachment 3070575
I suspect the lack of an inner spacer is what did you in. I used a 1.5” aluminum spacer inside my cradles and with about 15k miles on them they still seem fine.
 
Gonna get it aligned again just to be sure, but I think we’ve got a winner….

View attachment 3091984
Hard to tell how it is sitting in the wheel from the pic. How does it look on the wheel size? Do you think the RW wheels could work without the spacers you are running or do you think it is necessary to have spacers or 18s?
 
Hard to tell how it is sitting in the wheel from the pic. How does it look on the wheel size? Do you think the RW wheels could work without the spacers you are running or do you think it is necessary to have spacers or 18s?

Gotta run spacers with the RW for sure. I think 18s could clear without
 

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