bloc
SILVER Star
What spring compression tool is that? In case I ever need to swap the springs on my kings.
200 Series Lift using Tundra front IFS and Icon shocks
- Thread starter TexAZ
- Start date
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Since they’re of unknown condition I’d pull everything apart and clean it well then carefully inspect the balls and cages for any scarring or wear as that’s where you’ll get clicking. Might check the FSM to see if there are any other specific checks recommended.
This is the one I used
Amazon product ASIN B08MQPF6M3
Lots of grease, not using an impact, and only turning each bolt one turn at a time got me there safely.
Thats what I figured. Getting the inner off is simple enough, but oddly enough there is very little about disassembling the outer out there. Even the FSM shows just the internals of the Inner.
Did find this video that seems to be the way to go. Funny shout out to land cruisers in it. But its all predicated on breaking a clip, and doesn't really go into reassembly. Although I did find another video referencing a "zip tie method" but It didn't seem like they put the clip back in. So Ill probably just clean the outers as well as I can without reassembling and then inspect them, unless I'm missing something.
Hopefully not too much a derail, thought it was all interesting.
The snap rings are to my understanding designed to be replaced, so breaking the clip I think is fine. The replacements should be cheap to order.
That said to be fair I've not broken apart and rebuilt a CV, so you're probably wise not to trust anything I say here (or probably anywhere, honestly).
FWIW if you're still reading you may be fine testing the CV by simply extending it at all sorts of various angles and rotating it. If the balls rotate smoothly then it's probably fine. You're really just checking for imperfections in the ball surface that would be signs of wear and an indication you should replace them and/or the cage or inner race.
bloc
SILVER Star
You can usually manipulate the joint in different directions enough to look for wear on any of the relevant surfaces. The challenge is getting enough of the moly grease out to have a good look at everything.
Any pics of it mounted outside or P/N for the bolts? Or even jsut a size on the bolts would be helpful.
Decided its 35's or bust so going to do the KDSS relo, tundra passenger link and mount on the outside. Very tempted to try welding a new bracket on the LCA that moves it forward an inch or so.
Side note, OEM passenger tundra link is hilariously expensive @ ~$130.
The only advantages of welding a new bracket into the LCA is to provide double shear strength and some protection to the bolt head. So long as you have a good 1.5" spacer in the cradle, you shouldn't *need* to do through the effort.
If you feel sparky BDS makes some adjustable length Tundra end links which may work. Someone else on the forum used them and said they work though they had to grind a small bit off the very top or else it would hit the nut on the tie rod.
Well day one in the books on this and so far so good. Couple of questions and comments:
- When removing the LCA's, does consideration have to be taken to get the alignment nuts (not sure what they are called) in the same orientation?
- Going to install the kdss relocation kit while im in there. Was not expecting to have to trim my bud built skids but it looks like they will definitely need it
- My passenger tie rod link is totally bent already
- Passenger UCA was scarey loose
anyways, thanks for all the insight in this thread, definitely gave me confidence to give it a try on my own.
Here is as far as i got, UCA installed loosely on the driver side. Yes i didn't have the abs on the outside of the UCA which meant I got to unclip it and re route it. Was surprised I couldn't get the toughdog strut out, even with disconnecting the LCA from the steering knuckle.
- When removing the LCA's, does consideration have to be taken to get the alignment nuts (not sure what they are called) in the same orientation?
- Going to install the kdss relocation kit while im in there. Was not expecting to have to trim my bud built skids but it looks like they will definitely need it
- My passenger tie rod link is totally bent already
- Passenger UCA was scarey loose
anyways, thanks for all the insight in this thread, definitely gave me confidence to give it a try on my own.
Here is as far as i got, UCA installed loosely on the driver side. Yes i didn't have the abs on the outside of the UCA which meant I got to unclip it and re route it. Was surprised I couldn't get the toughdog strut out, even with disconnecting the LCA from the steering knuckle.
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One last question for now, where did those who have reservoirs mount them? KDSS definitely in the way of where they intended on tundras mounting them.
Easier if you remove the plastic splash guards here is mine on the busy KDSS side with secondary bypass
bloc
SILVER Star
On their 200 series kits king provide reservoir mounting brackets that put them on top of the frame above the 2 - 12mm bolts that hold the small plastic splash guards on. On the KDSS side it sits inboard of the stand-off on the frame.
If you dig around for king 2.5 installs on 200s you’ll see pictures.
Thanks! Was able to get the tundra mount to work on passenger side. Now just need to tone down the 5 inch lift I got from changing the coils to 700 lb and leaving the compression where it shipped.
When putting on the steering tie rods, any reason to not just put them on the same number of rotations as the LC ones and let the alignment shop take it from there?
Able to make more progress. Procured a 315 70 17 KO2 of craigslist and had it mounted on the spare to check fitment. It is a pretty worn tire, but looks like it should fit decently with some fender persuasion. Still need to reattach the sway bar. But at least it makes me feel good enough about ordering 4 more of them and not being hosed with useless rubber. Some comments
- Really happy with the track width
- The camburg UCA's maybe werent the best choice. They seem to be larger than most around the upper ball joint, getting very close to rubbing. And they don't have as much adjustability. We will see post alignment if I regret capitalizing on a good price for them.
- Still waiting on axle seals to replace the ones i damaged while trying to pry out the CV. For future noobs like myself, I got the second cv out with zero prying, just a 2lb sledge. Passenger side is easier than driver, start with that one.
- Did anyone pull there own thirds to send off for regear/locking? My gears h
ave arrived and now I am wondering if Itackle that while I have the front axle apart. But not finding much on this forum that isn't pulling out third row seats haha.
- Really happy with the track width
- The camburg UCA's maybe werent the best choice. They seem to be larger than most around the upper ball joint, getting very close to rubbing. And they don't have as much adjustability. We will see post alignment if I regret capitalizing on a good price for them.
- Still waiting on axle seals to replace the ones i damaged while trying to pry out the CV. For future noobs like myself, I got the second cv out with zero prying, just a 2lb sledge. Passenger side is easier than driver, start with that one.
- Did anyone pull there own thirds to send off for regear/locking? My gears h
ave arrived and now I am wondering if Itackle that while I have the front axle apart. But not finding much on this forum that isn't pulling out third row seats haha.
Man the rear area of your front wheel well is a really tight fit there. There's a lot more space in the KDSS arm though. Any idea what your caster is set to? Seems like it might be awfully low. Remember the body moves independent of the frame/suspension so what barely clears when parked often will rub when bouncing around or turning.
You might need wheel spacers to git rid of that UCA rub once the tire bulges and moves during normal driving. I don't know how long the studs are but you may be able to get away with a 5-10mm spacer that just fits between the wheel and the hub without going to a full ~1.25" spacer with its own lugs
You might need wheel spacers to git rid of that UCA rub once the tire bulges and moves during normal driving. I don't know how long the studs are but you may be able to get away with a 5-10mm spacer that just fits between the wheel and the hub without going to a full ~1.25" spacer with its own lugs
turbo8
Supporting Vendor
Yes, many people have pulled their diffs and sent them out. Are you looking for instructions on how to pull them?
Was never a fan of my Camburgs. They didn’t provide enough castor and they failed prematurely from onroad use. Went Total Chaos and never looked back.
with a grinder and a mallet, the king tundra mount can be convinced to work with a factory splash guard bolt.
