200 Series Lift using Tundra front IFS and Icon shocks

[bryson]

When putting on the steering tie rods, any reason to not just put them on the same number of rotations as the LC ones and let the alignment shop take it from there?

That won't get you even close on alignment... The LC tie rod ends (with stock LC suspension) thread on WAY further than the Tundra ones (on the LC rack, but with Tundra suspension). On your truck, aligned with Tundra outer tie rods, you'll only have ~1/2" (maybe a scoche more) thread engagement onto the LC inner tie rods.

This is the worse of the 2 major issues with the Tundra arm swap IMO (the lesser being the misalignment of the KDSS arms). The Tundra outer tie rod ends are only marginally longer overall than the LC counterparts - certainly not 1 1/2" longer like all the other components. This leaves very little thread engagement of the inner tie rod to the outer tie rod ends. It's enough to work in most situations, but it still makes me nervous.

The Tundra inner tie-rods are very nearly the same length as the LC inners, but with a different thread diameter where they engage the steering rack. So, there is no way (or benefit) to swap to the Tundra inner tie rods.

The Tundra uses a steering rack that is actually wider than the LC rack, and does not match up mount-wise with an LC rack - I.E. you cannot directly swap a Tundra rack onto an LC.

 

[bemerritt]

That won't get you even close on alignment... The LC tie rod ends (with stock LC suspension) thread on WAY further than the Tundra ones (on the LC rack, but with Tundra suspension). On your truck, aligned with Tundra outer tie rods, you'll only have ~1/2" (maybe a scoche more) thread engagement onto the LC inner tie rods.

This is the worse of the 2 major issues with the Tundra arm swap IMO (the lesser being the misalignment of the KDSS arms). The Tundra outer tie rod ends are only marginally longer overall than the LC counterparts - certainly not 1 1/2" longer like all the other components. This leaves very little thread engagement of the inner tie rod to the outer tie rod ends. It's enough to work in most situations, but it still makes me nervous.

The Tundra inner tie-rods are very nearly the same length as the LC inners, but with a different thread diameter where they engage the steering rack. So, there is no way (or benefit) to swap to the Tundra inner tie rods.

The Tundra uses a steering rack that is actually wider than the LC rack, and does not match up mount-wise with an LC rack - I.E. you cannot directly swap a Tundra rack onto an LC.

Thank you for this, it seemed as such that I would need to back them out quite a bit to get it close. Each of my LC rods had about 13-15 full rotations on threads.

 

[nwfl4runner]

Could an extension work?

Tie Rod Extensions

The Dirt King tie rod extensions are machined from heat treated 17-4 stainless steel and several sizes to choose from.

dirtkingfabrication.com

 

[bryson]

Could an extension work?

Tie Rod Extensions

The Dirt King tie rod extensions are machined from heat treated 17-4 stainless steel and several sizes to choose from.

dirtkingfabrication.com

Sort of - the factory inner rod end would need to be trimmed some for proper fit. Maybe even the outer as well.

I've seen the inner tie-rods cut, sleeved and lengthened by a reputable welder, which is a good solution, but not easy for many. The best solution IMO would be to find/have produced a longer outer tie rod end. This would be the easiest solution since they have to be changed anyways, and it wouldn't require you to remove your inner tie rods from the rack.

 

[bloc]

If the inner tie rod position isn’t the same between LC and Tundra, aren’t we messing with steering geometry? Ackerman?

My understanding was inner tie rod pivot position was a function of inner lower and upper control arm pivot position. Since that isn’t changing, why does the tundra have a wider steering rack? Are tundras wider than just the longer arms length?

 

[bryson]

If the inner tie rod position isn’t the same between LC and Tundra, aren’t we messing with steering geometry? Ackerman?

My understanding was inner tie rod pivot position was a function of inner lower and upper control arm pivot position. Since that isn’t changing, why does the tundra have a wider steering rack? Are tundras wider than just the longer arms length?

I think the steering geometry has to be different between Tundra/LC. No way it isn't.

The front diffs are interchangeable (but not identical - cooling fins on the Cruiser diff/tube vs. none on the Tundra is the only difference I'm aware of) so that makes me believe the Tundra is NOT any wider than a Cruiser with Tundra suspension. Why the racks are different I do not know, but comparing pictures and measurements of them shows they are.

 

[nwfl4runner]

Sort of - the factory inner rod end would need to be trimmed some for proper fit. Maybe even the outer as well.

I've seen the inner tie-rods cut, sleeved and lengthened by a reputable welder, which is a good solution, but not easy for many. The best solution IMO would be to find/have produced a longer outer tie rod end. This would be the easiest solution since they have to be changed anyways, and it wouldn't require you to remove your inner tie rods from the rack.

That extension seems to add 1.15" if you screw it all the way down on both ends. I thought the Tundra swap added about 1.5" to each side? If you used the stock LC ends, and this extension wouldn't you be golden as far as length/thread engagement?

 

[ttrmike]

That won't get you even close on alignment... The LC tie rod ends (with stock LC suspension) thread on WAY further than the Tundra ones (on the LC rack, but with Tundra suspension). On your truck, aligned with Tundra outer tie rods, you'll only have ~1/2" (maybe a scoche more) thread engagement onto the LC inner tie rods.

This is the worse of the 2 major issues with the Tundra arm swap IMO (the lesser being the misalignment of the KDSS arms). The Tundra outer tie rod ends are only marginally longer overall than the LC counterparts - certainly not 1 1/2" longer like all the other components. This leaves very little thread engagement of the inner tie rod to the outer tie rod ends. It's enough to work in most situations, but it still makes me nervous.

The Tundra inner tie-rods are very nearly the same length as the LC inners, but with a different thread diameter where they engage the steering rack. So, there is no way (or benefit) to swap to the Tundra inner tie rods.

The Tundra uses a steering rack that is actually wider than the LC rack, and does not match up mount-wise with an LC rack - I.E. you cannot directly swap a Tundra rack onto an LC.

I recalled the Tundra outer Tierod ends being close to 1.25in longer than the factory 200 series outer tierod ends. Do you happen to have any measurements from your swap comparing the two? I'm curious how much the difference actually is.

 

[bemerritt]

I recalled the Tundra outer Tierod ends being close to 1.25in longer than the factory 200 series outer tierod ends. Do you happen to have any measurements from your swap comparing the two? I'm curious how much the difference actually is.

Pretty close to an inch.

 

[bryson]

That extension seems to add 1.15" if you screw it all the way down on both ends. I thought the Tundra swap added about 1.5" to each side? If you used the stock LC ends, and this extension wouldn't you be golden as far as length/thread engagement?

1.15" extra is great if there is no thread engagement on the stock parts when you start. But, there is ~0.5" of thread engagement, plus roughly 0.25" for each jam nut (with the extension you'll now need 2 jam nuts), so that's a full 1.0" that has to be accounted for. If you were to trim some thread off of the inner tie rod, and some of the outer rod end, the extensions should work.

 

[bryson]

I recalled the Tundra outer Tierod ends being close to 1.25in longer than the factory 200 series outer tierod ends. Do you happen to have any measurements from your swap comparing the two? I'm curious how much the difference actually is.

Per rockauto.com comparing the same brand and side tie rod end lengths (stud centerline to end of joint):
7.050" for the 08 Land Cruiser
8.180" for the 08 Tundra

So @bmerritt is right on the difference being roughly an inch. That is more than I remembered from when I did mine, but either way it's not the full 1.5" difference that we need.

 

[ttrmike]

A quick search for extended tundra outer tie rods (aside from the extensions) just returns options for hiem joints.

It would definitely take some more indepth searching to find a suitable ball joint based alternative that's a more appropriate length. However I think the 200 series is on the upper end of toyota oem sized tierods...

 

[techster82]

Anyone know why this lower front shock bolt from the Tundra is listed as discontinued, or am I looking at the wrong part?

 

[bemerritt]

Nope, had trouble also. Eventually found it at my local dealership.

 

[techster82]

Nope, had trouble also. Eventually found it at my local dealership.

Same part number?

 

[bemerritt]

yeah.

90105-A0382 - Shock Absorber Bolt 2007-2022 Toyota | Ourisman Toyota Parts

Save Money On Your Shock Absorber Bolt (90105a0382) For Your 2007-2022 Toyota When You Shop With Ourisman Toyota Parts!

toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com

 

[bloc]

Other sites (well, singular, the one I use regularly) show it still being a valid number.

 

[bemerritt]

Off to alignment!

A look down the line to show the poke. not quite as proud as my bud built sliders with step

 

[techster82]

I finally caved in to the wife's wishes and got her a 200 series towards the end of November. She's been driving our 100 series but wanted something a little bigger and roomier for work/travel and with less upgrades done to it (she's not a fan of the double swingout rear bumper I put on the 100, of the one on my 80). Came across a clean one owner 2009 model with no previous accidents and 155k on the odometer. I pretty quickly swapped out wheels/tires and did a few other little upgrades/cosmetic touches and am now tackling the suspension.

I knew of the Tundra swap option and after looking through most of the threads I decided I wanted to go that route (the current suspension is all stock and a little tired). The current plan is to run stock front and rear bumpers for now but eventually replace the front bumper with a winch/bumper setup and do a removable hitch mounted setup for the spare tire/storage for trips that require it. 3rd row seats are almost always left in with the kids.

Here is what I've acquired for the swap so far (and what I'm interested in getting feedback on):

Front lower arms: OEM used from LKQ
Front upper arms: SPC
Front CV Axles: OEM (one new, one rebuilt)
Front Tie Rods: Moog (555 brand, new)
Front Shock/Strut: Fox 2.0 Performance Coilovers
Rear Shocks: Fox 2.0 Performance Shocks

Here's what I need to still acquire or decide on:

Rear Springs: OME 2722 of Dobinsons C59-545 (open to suggestions)
Rear adjustable panhard: How many are running this? (I've always addressed it on my other vehicles)
Front Diff Drop: Is it needed with the Tundra Swap (which alleviates CV angles itself)
Front Sway Bar Links: Seems like I've read of several different routes, should I stick with the LC200 ones or grab some Tundra ones?
Front Brake Lines: Any good source for extended length ones (if they're needed?)

The current wheel/tire setup on the stock suspension is TRD Pro 18" wheels (early, glossier ones) with 275/70r18 MTs. I've got Rock Warriors in storage and could go to a 17" setup like on my other vehicles but really like the TRD Pro BBS wheels and would ultimately like to go to those with a slightly larger tire (35s or maybe 34s)

Appreciate any feedback as I'm hoping to get the install done next week after we get back from a wheeling trip to Windrock.

 

[bemerritt]

I finally caved in to the wife's wishes and got her a 200 series towards the end of November. She's been driving our 100 series but wanted something a little bigger and roomier for work/travel and with less upgrades done to it (she's not a fan of the double swingout rear bumper I put on the 100, of the one on my 80). Came across a clean one owner 2009 model with no previous accidents and 155k on the odometer. I pretty quickly swapped out wheels/tires and did a few other little upgrades/cosmetic touches and am now tackling the suspension.

I knew of the Tundra swap option and after looking through most of the threads I decided I wanted to go that route (the current suspension is all stock and a little tired). The current plan is to run stock front and rear bumpers for now but eventually replace the front bumper with a winch/bumper setup and do a removable hitch mounted setup for the spare tire/storage for trips that require it. 3rd row seats are almost always left in with the kids.

Here is what I've acquired for the swap so far (and what I'm interested in getting feedback on):

Front lower arms: OEM used from LKQ
Front upper arms: SPC
Front CV Axles: OEM (one new, one rebuilt)
Front Tie Rods: Moog (555 brand, new)
Front Shock/Strut: Fox 2.0 Performance Coilovers
Rear Shocks: Fox 2.0 Performance Shocks

Here's what I need to still acquire or decide on:

Rear Springs: OME 2722 of Dobinsons C59-545 (open to suggestions)
Rear adjustable panhard: How many are running this? (I've always addressed it on my other vehicles)
Front Diff Drop: Is it needed with the Tundra Swap (which alleviates CV angles itself)
Front Sway Bar Links: Seems like I've read of several different routes, should I stick with the LC200 ones or grab some Tundra ones?
Front Brake Lines: Any good source for extended length ones (if they're needed?)

The current wheel/tire setup on the stock suspension is TRD Pro 18" wheels (early, glossier ones) with 275/70r18 MTs. I've got Rock Warriors in storage and could go to a 17" setup like on my other vehicles but really like the TRD Pro BBS wheels and would ultimately like to go to those with a slightly larger tire (35s or maybe 34s)

Appreciate any feedback as I'm hoping to get the install done next week after we get back from a wheeling trip to Windrock.

View attachment 2889041

I also needed tundra shock mount bolts. It was my fault, but having axle seals ready isnt the worst thing ever in case they get damaged when removing the cv’s.